# API versus Salifert ammonia test kit



## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

Hello;

I'm starting up a new aquarium, and am using the fishless cycling method to get it ready for the first fish.

I added an amount of clear ammonium hydroxide solution, and measured the ammonia level using the ammonia test from an API freshwater Master Test Kit. It was off the charts. I did gradual water changes until I got the ammonia level down to ~5 ppm. 

Just to verify, I also tested with a Salifert ammonia "NH4 Profi Test". This test shows an ammonia level of ~0.8 ppm.

From Googling I understand that Salifert is generally considered to be a more accurate test kit than API, but this is a huge difference in readings. The Salifert test kit has an expiration date of Sep 2013. The API ammonia bottle #1 has a lot number of 83B1011 which I understand to mean that it was produced in Oct 2011, and the solutions should have a shelf life of three years.

Anybody have a clue as to what might be going on here? Thanks in advance.


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## jbrown5217 (Nov 9, 2011)

Most of us here use the api kit you are talking about and praise it for its accuracy. As a matter of fact I have never heard of the Salifert test you are talking about.

If it is a strip however I wouldn't trust it, most strips are well known for inaccuracy.


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

jbrown5217 said:


> Most of us here use the api kit you are talking about and praise it for its accuracy. As a matter of fact I have never heard of the Salifert test you are talking about.
> 
> If it is a strip however I wouldn't trust it, most strips are well known for inaccuracy.


It's not a strip; it's a liquid-regent based test which is generally ranked pretty highly, including among marine aquarium hobbyists who are usually even more meticulous about water parameters than are freshwater hobbyists. :fish-in-a-bag:


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## jbrown5217 (Nov 9, 2011)

Did you make sure it was a freshwater test kit? I know it seems like a strange question, but I went to salifert website and their page for freshwater was under construction. That makes me nervous. Their saltwater tests look pretty damn good I will say though


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

jbrown5217 said:


> Did you make sure it was a freshwater test kit? I know it seems like a strange question, but I went to salifert website and their page for freshwater was under construction. That makes me nervous. Their saltwater tests look pretty damn good I will say though


Yes, the included instructions say "the ammonia test can be used for both marine and fresh water".


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Test again.


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## Summer (Oct 3, 2011)

I would re test and be sure to shake the bottles real well, I've gotten wonky results before from not shaking enough.


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

API you should shake them up for a bit, then wait 5 mins for results. I use API. No issues. Salifert from what I hear is a good test kit also, more accurate than the API is.


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

jrman83 said:


> Test again.


Tested again today, same results.

I also tested a sample of my tap water with both kits, which both showed 0 ppm.


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

Summer said:


> I would re test and be sure to shake the bottles real well, I've gotten wonky results before from not shaking enough.


I was wondering about that. The instructions say nothing about shaking the bottles, so I was a little leery about this. I did shake them a bit before my last test; tomorrow I'll shake the bottles well before repeating the test.


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

dclark61 said:


> I was wondering about that. The instructions say nothing about shaking the bottles, so I was a little leery about this. I did shake them a bit before my last test; tomorrow I'll shake the bottles well before repeating the test.


Same results. :-(


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

Don't dose the tank anymore, let it run it course now. You jump started the cycle, sounds like to much was used per gallon is all.


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

Reefing Madness said:


> Don't dose the tank anymore, let it run it course now. You jump started the cycle, sounds like to much was used per gallon is all.


Thanks, I just wish I felt like I had an idea of which ammonia level is correct, as I'm going to need to know when it hits zero.

I'll monitor for nitrites, which currently reads 0 according to my API kit.


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

I'd say use your API kit, if you 've tested it a few times, its correct. Use that info. Its possible you have a bad test kit, but its on the highly unlikey side of it. Watch your Nitrate levels,not the Nitrite levels if in doubt. The lower the Trates get the safer you are.


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

Reefing Madness said:


> I'd say use your API kit, if you 've tested it a few times, its correct.


Well, I've also tested the Salifert kit a few times too. ;-)



Reefing Madness said:


> Use that info. Its possible you have a bad test kit, but its on the highly unlikey side of it. Watch your Nitrate levels,not the Nitrite levels if in doubt. The lower the Trates get the safer you are.


Not sure I understand, here. As a result of fishless cycling, all I'll have is increasing nitrate levels. What would lower the nitrate levels other than water changes?

Thanks in advance.


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## Gizmo (Dec 6, 2010)

dclark61 said:


> I added an amount of clear ammonium hydroxide solution, and measured the ammonia level using the ammonia test from an API freshwater Master Test Kit. It was off the charts. I did gradual water changes until I got the ammonia level down to ~5 ppm.
> 
> Just to verify, I also tested with a Salifert ammonia "NH4 Profi Test". This test shows an ammonia level of ~0.8 ppm.


I think the reason you're encountering problems here is that the API test kit detects both ammonium (NH4) and ammonia (NH3), whereas the Salifert kit seems to only detect ammonia. I've heard two conflicting things about ammonium. 1: It is more toxic to fish but is rarely encountered in the aquarium world, 2: Ammonium is non-toxic to fish. Not sure which, but either way, I think the detection of ammonium vs. ammonia is the difference between API and Salifert. I've also heard that decomposing bio-matter generates ammonia or ammonium depending on the pH level. Whether it makes a difference remains my primary doubt. However, I would stick to the API kit just because I'm unsure whether ammonium poses a threat.

Sources:
http://www.aquariumforum.com/f66/fish-poop-you-primer-8310.html
The Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

Gizmo said:


> I think the reason you're encountering problems here is that the API test kit detects both ammonium (NH4) and ammonia (NH3), whereas the Salifert kit seems to only detect ammonia. I've heard two conflicting things about ammonium. 1: It is more toxic to fish but is rarely encountered in the aquarium world, 2: Ammonium is non-toxic to fish. Not sure which, but either way, I think the detection of ammonium vs. ammonia is the difference between API and Salifert. I've also heard that decomposing bio-matter generates ammonia or ammonium depending on the pH level. Whether it makes a difference remains my primary doubt. However, I would stick to the API kit just because I'm unsure whether ammonium poses a threat.
> 
> Sources:
> http://www.aquariumforum.com/f66/fish-poop-you-primer-8310.html
> The Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle


According to the Salifert test kit kit instructions, "the values on the color chart are in mg/L total ammonia (that is NH3 + NH4)."


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## Gizmo (Dec 6, 2010)

dclark61 said:


> According to the Salifert test kit kit instructions, "the values on the color chart are in mg/L total ammonia (that is NH3 + NH4)."


I stand corrected. Thanks 

Maybe take a sample to your LFS and have them test it as well? 3rd opinions are always good.


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

Gizmo said:


> I stand corrected. Thanks
> 
> Maybe take a sample to your LFS and have them test it as well? 3rd opinions are always good.


Yep, and that'd be cheaper than buying a third test kit. ;-) Thanks.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

dclark61 said:


> Hello;
> 
> I'm starting up a new aquarium, and am using the fishless cycling method to get it ready for the first fish.
> 
> ...



I really don't know except that some nitrates test kits are calibrated to measrue the entire ion and some are calibrated to measure only the nitrogen part.

Is it possible that ammonia kits are the same?

Also the api test kit measures both the locked and free ammonia. So it could be possible the salifert only measures the free ammonia. If true the difference is the locked ammonia.

just guessing.


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

beaslbob said:


> I really don't know except that some nitrates test kits are calibrated to measrue the entire ion and some are calibrated to measure only the nitrogen part.
> 
> Is it possible that ammonia kits are the same?
> 
> ...


My understanding is that locked ammonia is only present in an aquarium as the result of using something like AmQuel. I may be wrong on this. I only used API Tap Water Conditioner, which does nothing to lock ammonia as far as I know. Although it does "break the chloramine bond", which I believe would result in the release of free (not locked) ammonia into the water, though again I may be wrong about this.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

dclark61 said:


> My understanding is that locked ammonia is only present in an aquarium as the result of using something like AmQuel. I may be wrong on this. I only used API Tap Water Conditioner, which does nothing to lock ammonia as far as I know. Although it does "break the chloramine bond", which I believe would result in the release of free (not locked) ammonia into the water, though again I may be wrong about this.


Well I could be wrong also.

I think you are correct in this link:

Water conditioners - The Free Freshwater and Saltwater Aquarium Encyclopedia Anyone Can Edit - The Aquarium Wiki

Stated that other conditioners like amquell and prime are for the ammonia.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

so I went to the api web site:

Tap Water Conditionerâ„¢ - API

and found the msds

http://cms.marsfishcare.com/files/msds/tap_water_conditioner_122309.pdf

which listed contents as:



> contents
> sodium thiosulfate 7772-98-7 30.2
> EDTA tetrasodium salt 64-02-8 9.8


(which agrees with the other site as well.)

And even more interesting is:



msds said:


> HAZARD
> DANGER
> Determined by Chemwatch using GHS criteria:
> H335 H315 H317 H400 H315 H318 H319
> ...


Bold and underline added.

Obviously don't over dose that.

Or even better let the tank set a week planted, add 1 fish and don't add food for a week, then stock up and start feeding 1 or 2 flakes per day. That and just replacing evaporative water with untreated tap results is healthy thriving active fish.

Perhaps you can see why I don't like chemicals. at best unnecessary at worse well read the msds.


my .02


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

lol, where is the MSDS for your tap water? Chlorine and Chloramine are just as, or possibly more, toxic to aquatic life. It certainly wipes out beneficial bacteria. You put chemicals in your tank, you just refuse to believe it. Sitting the water out doesn't guarantee anything.


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

jrman83 said:


> lol, where is the MSDS for your tap water? Chlorine and Chloramine are just as, or possibly more, toxic to aquatic life. It certainly wipes out beneficial bacteria. You put chemicals in your tank, you just refuse to believe it. Sitting the water out doesn't guarantee anything.


Gotta go with the JRMAN here on this one. Beals is getting way to technical for anyones good. This ain't chemical class 101. Its not that difficult.


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

It is interesting, though, that the data sheet associated with API Tap Water Conditioner says "very toxic to aquatic life". ;-) I emailed their tech support team to find out exactly under what conditions that's true, given that I doubt people have mass fish deaths when they drop that stuff into their tanks. 

Mostly likely it's if the product is overused, but it does give me pause ...


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

dclark61 said:


> It is interesting, though, that the data sheet associated with API Tap Water Conditioner says "very toxic to aquatic life". ;-) I emailed their tech support team to find out exactly under what conditions that's true, given that I doubt people have mass fish deaths when they drop that stuff into their tanks.
> 
> Mostly likely it's if the product is overused, but it does give me pause ...


Thats it though, if you drop the bottles in the water, its toxic. Not overuse, using them does not consist of putting any of the liquid into the tank. Its by mishap that you would kill the tank.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

dclark61 said:


> It is interesting, though, that the data sheet associated with API Tap Water Conditioner says "very toxic to aquatic life". ;-) I emailed their tech support team to find out exactly under what conditions that's true, given that I doubt people have mass fish deaths when they drop that stuff into their tanks.
> 
> Mostly likely it's if the product is overused, *but it does give me pause *...


Especially when all I do is plant the tank, let it set a week before adding fish and then just replacing evaporative water with straight untreated tap.


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

beaslbob said:


> Especially when all I do is plant the tank, let it set a week before adding fish and then just replacing evaporative water with straight untreated tap.


Yes, so I've heard. Your water contains no chlorine or chloramines, or your fish have no problem with it if it does?


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Pardon me, but you guys are getting a little stupid about this. Obviously, ANY chemical is not going to be good for most aquatic life. If they were to make it edible to them or they could breath in it, it probably wouldn't do anything for YOU.

Your tap water has just as many things that you could say the same thing about. Leaving it for however long your heart desires, does NOT guarantee anything. Anyone have water test results before and after to prove the difference leaving it sit does? Dechlor ENSURES you have no issues. Not all chemicals already in your water dissipate.

Beasl is using this to confuse and misinform to support his methods, nothing more.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

dclark61 said:


> Yes, so I've heard. Your water contains no chlorine or chloramines, or your fish have no problem with it if it does?


My water does conatain chloramine. Per local water authroity.

(if anyone wants to check it is the harvest monrovia water authority, harvest alabama)

My fish have no problem using the week waiting period and just replacing evaporative water.

Additionally I have done the same exact thing in 1/2 dozen or so towns accross the US when I was in the air force and was moving around. Of course all those towns had water safe for humans. (des moines, iowa; Rapid city, south dakota; Alamogordo, NM; Ft walton beach Fl; gosnell, AR;albuquerque, NM;Daleville, al; and finally harvest/madison/huntsville, al)

some towns were river water other aquafiers/wells and so on.

So it is not the conditions or quality of any one town's tap water.


Still just my .02


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## dclark61 (Jan 21, 2012)

beaslbob said:


> My water does conatain chloramine. Per local water authroity.
> 
> (if anyone wants to check it is the harvest monrovia water authority, harvest alabama)
> 
> My fish have no problem using the week waiting period and just replacing evaporative water.


Why do you bother to wait for a week? Chloramine won't break down in that time period, will it? And if it does, doesn't it break down into chlorine and ammonia?


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## Gizmo (Dec 6, 2010)

From my limited understanding, chlorine will gas out of water if it is left sitting, but chloramine will not. The only way to break the chloramine bond is to use dechlor like API Tap Water Conditioner or Tetra AquaSafe (or whatever it's called). Beasl might not be encountering difficulties because he is adding so little that the chloramine doesn't outright kill the fish, similar to mild ammonia and/or nitrite exposure.

Those of us who do large PWC's, though, need to consider the effects of chloramine more closely.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

If it works for him (beasel) great. It probably only also works for him because he replaces about 5% per week, if that. Anything above that is just downright foolish if you do water changes like the larger part of the community does and replace percentages that are usually 25%+. It gets recommended many times here but it is just seeing how far you can push something without causing an issue. He doesn't have moving water, a motion that puts gobs of oxygen in the water. So anything he adds to the water that can deplete oxygen, although probably arguable that chloramines do the exact same thing, can cause an issue. I don't understand telling everyone else that the water is fine - jump in, when it's really only fine for his particular setup and keeping up with evaporative loss.


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## Gizmo (Dec 6, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> If it works for him (beasel) great. It probably only also works for him because he replaces about 5% per week, if that.


Agreed


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

dclark61 said:


> Why do you bother to wait for a week? Chloramine won't break down in that time period, will it? And if it does, doesn't it break down into chlorine and ammonia?


the fish lives when I wait a week. *old dude


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