# Cycle taking FOR EVER



## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

I have a 54 gallon corner tank.. I set it up about 6 weeks ago with two large pieces of driftwood, 4 anubias and two sword plants I let is cycle with the heater on so that after a few days the temperature was at 80 degrees. I then added 7 Tiger barbs and a week later another 5. One died within 12 hours, i attributed that to non-tank-related-factors. Here i am, 6 weeks later and the Ammonia level has been at 4 ppm for weeks now. Nitrate/Nitrate have not been above 0. Due to the large amount of drift wood the PH is pretty steady at 6.5 and about 0 hardness. 

The barbs are doing great, very active, beautiful colors and they grew in the last 5 weeks. The plants grew as well, anubias have pretty much latched on the rocks and wood. The water is very slightly "milky" and has a darker color. Last weekend i replaced the active carbon to attempt to get rid of that. 

I'm getting impatient. This is the third aquarium i have cycled, and the two previous ones were smaller but the nitrogen cycle definitely went faster!


I'd love to get some feedback and ideas!

Thanks


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## Jack Harkness (Jan 20, 2011)

i dont know too much about cycles but i think you put too many fish in at the same time


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## automatic-hydromatic (Oct 18, 2010)

don't get impatient what ever you do! that will only discourage you more

that does sound like a lot of fish added too fast, but it may not be _too_ much if it's planted. but that's going to depend completely on how heavily planted it is. I'm guessing not too heavily if you're seeing spikes like that, because if you have enough plants, they'll eat the ammonia up

personally, were it me, I'd return the barbs back in and get 4 or 5 larger Mollys, a good hardy fish. doesn't have to be anything pretty or anything you plan on keeping, just use them to cycle the tank. once the tank gets stable, take them back for the barbs, and 3 or 4 other small fish in addition to those, and slowly begin to bring you stock up, carefully watching your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. adding 3 or 4 more fish will send you through a mini cycle which may hardly be noticeable at all, but that again is going to depend on the fish being added, and the amount of live plants in the tank


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## phys (Feb 4, 2011)

you could try adding some substrate from you other tanks to get things moving...


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## NeonShark666 (Dec 13, 2010)

There's something wrong with your data. It's not normal for you to have Ammonia readings after several weeks and no Nitrite or Nitrate values. What cycling does in an aquarium is set up a bacteria population so that the transformation frrom Ammonia to Nitrite to Nitrate happens fast (Ammonia and Nitrite are toxic to fish). Try making some backup tests with strips or take you water to your local fish dealer and have it tested. After six weeks you should be getting very low Ammonia readings, decreasing Nitrite values and slowly increasing Nitrates.


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## phys (Feb 4, 2011)

could your testing materials be incorrect or too old to give good readings? what are you using?


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

First off, I don't think it's too many fish. Some books I have read recommend 3-4 for every 10g. If the Barbs are doing fine then leave them. 

I agree that you should be seeing some nitrites and probably nitrates by now and that your tests could be erroneous. My question is why would you let your water stay at 4ppm ammonia if you have fish in the tank. Forget the fact that you have plants, you should be doing something to make sure the fish can stay alive, although if they have been in 4ppm water for how long?...maybe they will be fine. Certainly not the way you should go about a cycle with fish.

How old is your test kit? Are you using liquid tests for nitrites and nitrates?


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## roacan (Dec 25, 2010)

Try Stability from Seachem

Seachem Stability: PUT TO THE TEST/blank slate (daily perams/pics) - MonsterFishKeepers.com


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

phys said:


> could your testing materials be incorrect or too old to give good readings? what are you using?


Cant be anything wrong with my test data or materials, I bought a Master test kit and a bottle of strips for quick every day use. I have been testing with the Master test kit lots and yesterday i even did it over again to make sure i didn't do it wrong. Ammonia has been stagnant at 4 PPM for at least 2 weeks now. 

I don't agree with the 'too much fish" statement, also switching fish species isn't going to do anything IMHO


I might add some more live plants. I dont like (nor do i beleive its necessary) to have an airstone in my aquarium, but i did read somewhere that that might help??


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

roacan said:


> Try Stability from Seachem
> 
> Seachem Stability: PUT TO THE TEST/blank slate (daily perams/pics) - MonsterFishKeepers.com


Interesting read. Would you recommend I use it as if its a brand new tank?


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

s9601694 said:


> I have a 54 gallon corner tank.. I set it up about 6 weeks ago with two large pieces of driftwood, 4 anubias and two sword plants I let is cycle with the heater on so that after a few days the temperature was at 80 degrees. I then added 7 Tiger barbs and a week later another 5. One died within 12 hours, i attributed that to non-tank-related-factors. Here i am, 6 weeks later and the Ammonia level has been at 4 ppm for weeks now. Nitrate/Nitrate have not been above 0. Due to the large amount of drift wood the PH is pretty steady at 6.5 and about 0 hardness.
> 
> The barbs are doing great, very active, beautiful colors and they grew in the last 5 weeks. The plants grew as well, anubias have pretty much latched on the rocks and wood. The water is very slightly "milky" and has a darker color. Last weekend i replaced the active carbon to attempt to get rid of that.
> 
> ...


If your ammonia is 4 ppm and fish are living you must have the "locked" ammonia not the dangerous "free" ammonia.

I would cut back the lights to clear the water and go a few days to a week without adding food. Hopefully the water will clear and ammonia will drop down.

my .02


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

s9601694 said:


> Interesting read. Would you recommend I use it as if its a brand new tank?


NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would add fast growing live plants like anacharis or vals and never recommend any chemicals to establish a cycle ever.

Sure in very rare cases in established tank you may have to add some chemicals just not for new tanks to establish the cycle. The best thing for new cycles is thriving plant life. *old dude

my .02


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

beaslbob said:


> If your ammonia is 4 ppm and fish are living you must have the "locked" ammonia not the dangerous "free" ammonia.
> 
> I would cut back the lights to clear the water and go a few days to a week without adding food. Hopefully the water will clear and ammonia will drop down.
> 
> my .02


Could this be caused by low PH?? 

I read that low PH can also cause a delay or stop in the groth of the nitritifying (is that a word?) bacteria.. Should I try to up the PH by adding some limestone or crushed coral or whatever?


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

s9601694 said:


> Could this be caused by low PH??
> 
> I read that low PH can also cause a delay or stop in the groth of the nitritifying (is that a word?) bacteria.. Should I try to up the PH by adding some limestone or crushed coral or whatever?


The general cycling process will low ph, create ammonia, and consume carbonate. At least from what I here. After the cycle is complete and even nitrates are being consumed, that is all reversed.

I don't know but don't think the low pH will prevent the growth of the aerobic bacteria.

I have heard there is more "locked/safe" ammonia at lower pH and more dangerous free ammonia at higher pH. But am not sure.

I have also heard nitrIte is more or less dangerous depending on pH values as will.

to me at any rate thriving fast growing plants will consume the ammonia directly preventing the ammonia->nitrIte spikes. And in the process consume carbon dioxide which will raise pH. when the plants finally consume the resulting nitrates, that will also return carbonate to further raise pH, and help raise kH as well.

my .02


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## phys (Feb 4, 2011)

are you rinsing the test tubes properly? if not, you could be introducing ammonia in from an outside source. also, sometimes strips have a certain error involved in thier readings. If you rinse the test tubes with tap water, it will introduce stuff that you're not actually going to have in your tank. so rinse them with your tank water or R/O or distilled water. It could be that your tank is fully cycled and there are just errors in the testing materials. Maybe buy a different ammonia tester or bring it to a LFS and see if what they get matches what you get. 

Another thought is, you may have something in the water that is deterring the buildup of the bacteria. Do you use water conditioners to remove any chlorine in the water? if not, the small amount of chlorine in the water may be killing the bacteria before it has a chance to duplicate. 

So a few questions:
What is your water source?
How do you prep your water? 
What are all the current parameters?
How are you preparing your testing materials?
Can you test for chlorine? If so, what is the reading.


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## mec102778 (Feb 17, 2011)

Beaslbob, I need your brain for fish keeping.


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

phys said:


> are you rinsing the test tubes properly? if not, you could be introducing ammonia in from an outside source. also, sometimes strips have a certain error involved in thier readings. If you rinse the test tubes with tap water, it will introduce stuff that you're not actually going to have in your tank. so rinse them with your tank water or R/O or distilled water. It could be that your tank is fully cycled and there are just errors in the testing materials. Maybe buy a different ammonia tester or bring it to a LFS and see if what they get matches what you get.
> 
> Another thought is, you may have something in the water that is deterring the buildup of the bacteria. Do you use water conditioners to remove any chlorine in the water? if not, the small amount of chlorine in the water may be killing the bacteria before it has a chance to duplicate.
> 
> ...


Water source is the tap, i condition the water and let it sit overnight in a bucket with an air stone (i havent done water changes, just top ups due to evaporation)
Ammonia - 4
Nitrate/Nitrite - 0
PH - 6 ish
Chlorine - 0

I rinse testing tubes with tap water but before taking a sample, rinse them with aquarium water. 

This morning a Tiger Barb died, he looked healthy, just dead... the other ones look and act healthy


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## phys (Feb 4, 2011)

have you tested the amounts of ammonia in your tap water? It could contain a high amount due to fertilizer runoff and you may not be adding enough water conditioner to get rid of it all. 

What kind of substrate and decorations do you have? Is there not enough surface area to build significant amounts of bacteria to burn through the ammonia being produced?

One more question, are the reading always reading 4ppm? Try it on some other tanks or tap water and if the readings say 4ppm, then it could be your testing materials.


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

phys said:


> have you tested the amounts of ammonia in your tap water? It could contain a high amount due to fertilizer runoff and you may not be adding enough water conditioner to get rid of it all.
> 
> What kind of substrate and decorations do you have? Is there not enough surface area to build significant amounts of bacteria to burn through the ammonia being produced?
> 
> One more question, are the reading always reading 4ppm? Try it on some other tanks or tap water and if the readings say 4ppm, then it could be your testing materials.


Interesting!

I'll test my tap water for ammonia right away. I have black smaller grave about 3 inches for substrate. The only decorations are two massive pieces of driftwood and 8 live plants. (of which 3 anubias)

ANd yes, its always 4ppm.. 

THanks!


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## ReStart (Jan 3, 2011)

Keep us posted on the progress. I suggest continue the wc often, unless of course you find that the tap has ammonia, then go for treated RO or some other source.

I used Zebra Dannios and Golden Barbs to cycle my 60. At times I had ammonia over the 4.0 mark but with wc's the Barbs and Zebra's did fine and are still healthy and active members of my Rainbow community. I was actually doing 20% daily just to keep them alive.

Puzzling too is 0 Nitrate, Nitrite with 4ppm Ammonia. What kind of filter? I have used old filter pads in a new filter to jump start the cycle. It seemed to help as I cycled a 60g in about 18 days.


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

ReStart said:


> Keep us posted on the progress. I suggest continue the wc often, unless of course you find that the tap has ammonia, then go for treated RO or some other source.
> 
> I used Zebra Dannios and Golden Barbs to cycle my 60. At times I had ammonia over the 4.0 mark but with wc's the Barbs and Zebra's did fine and are still healthy and active members of my Rainbow community. I was actually doing 20% daily just to keep them alive.
> 
> Puzzling too is 0 Nitrate, Nitrite with 4ppm Ammonia. What kind of filter? I have used old filter pads in a new filter to jump start the cycle. It seemed to help as I cycled a 60g in about 18 days.


OK i tested the tap water: 0 ammonia and 0 chlorine (?)

I took a sample to a LFS in Fort Collins, CO. (Greatwhite Aquatics, really nice store by the way!!). The guy tested the sample and found the same water properties. He suggested to do a large water change and add some salt. We also evaluated feeding, turns out that i might have been over feeding (I fed them according to his direction today, first time in 3 days). He said that he expected the cycle to complete in the next week.... We'll see!


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## phys (Feb 4, 2011)

That sounds like it could make sense. I usually only feed twice a day if that. The fish would actually be fine with once a day also. Keep lookin at your parameters and keep us posted!


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

You could stop feeding for a week with no problem, if you needed to. Your fish will be fine. If you haven't seen nitrites yet, it would surprise me if the cycle was done in one week.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

mec102778 said:


> Beaslbob, I need your brain for fish keeping.


Are you gonna put it in a fish? *r2


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

One day after 50% water change and adding the salt:

Ammonia: 2ppm
Nitrite/nitrate: 0


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

It is possible you may never see nitrites. I didn't the last tank I cycled using fish. One or two days there was a slight puple-ish color to the solution, but then it was gone. On the nitrate test, are you possibly seeing a slight orange color or is it straight yellow?


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

jrman83 said:


> It is possible you may never see nitrites. I didn't the last tank I cycled using fish. One or two days there was a slight puple-ish color to the solution, but then it was gone. On the nitrate test, are you possibly seeing a slight orange color or is it straight yellow?


I am wanting it is a slight orange color.....but i think its straight yellow


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## roacan (Dec 25, 2010)

Check this one out.

Bacteria-In-Bottle - MonsterFishKeepers.com

When cycling and you have ammonia, you do not have enough bacteria that will consume the ammonia to convert it to nitrite. Does not matter if you have a new tank or an old one. Stability and this other product one & only are bacteria in a bottle. They are not chemicals that would lock up or bind with your ammonia. You are actually putting bacteria that you are waiting on to populate your tank.

Going with plants is a very good idea. But you need lots of plants that will consume the ammonia. Once the bacteria has been established (maybe with the help of the "bacteria in a bottle") and ammonia is being consumed by bacteria and converted to nitrite, other bacteria will consume the nitrite to convert it to nitrate. I am not sure if plants consume nitrite but they do consume nitrate.
Bacteria that consumes nitrite are also contained in the "bacteria in a bottle".

A lot of people have used it and cycle their tank quickly. It would help lessen the exposure of your fish to ammonia/nitrite.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

I personally am not a believer in these products. When you read some of the reviews, people are adding at a point where it was close to their cycle completing anyway and think the product did it. Even personal stories on here have been like that. At least that is how it seems. The good thing is, it usually doesn't hurt. Whether it helps or not is a different story.


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## roacan (Dec 25, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> I personally am not a believer in these products. When you read some of the reviews, people are adding at a point where it was close to their cycle completing anyway and think the product did it. Even personal stories on here have been like that. At least that is how it seems. The good thing is, it usually doesn't hurt. Whether it helps or not is a different story.


Hi jrman,

Have you seen the video of Dr. Tim and the interviewer testing the product? We all know that bacterias are consuming the ammonia and nitrite. If I have the equipment, I would try to find out which one it is and sell it too. Looks like Dr. Tim found out which one it is.

As for seachem stability, there are more people that says it works than people who says it does not work.

Personally, I prefer to use plants. Beaslbob converted me in using plants.

I am merely suggesting that these products might help make the cycle go faster.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

I used 4 bottles of Dr Tim's nitrifying bacteria on my 125g to give it a try. I figured since at least his product comes to you kept cold, maybe it was worth a damn. My tank cycled, but I couldn't tell you if the product helped or not. It was done fishless, dosing ammonia and it still took a month.

All I'm saying is that people use it and think it cycled their tank, but when you look at the full story it sounds like the tank would've cycled just as quick on it's own. Plus, you really never know if it helps or not because its not like it is a set time or anything. Like my tank..I don't know if it helped. I didn't like spending all that money to never really knew. I only know I'll never use it again.

I was only saying I'm not a believer. Up to the individual if they want to spend the cash. I said it won't hurt, but may not help either.


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

Water today:

Ammonia: between 2 and 4ppm.... so 3!
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate.... Well it was darker than yellow... more orange.. I think, my wife, mom (who is visiting), and 13 year old daughter agreed 

THERE IS HOPE!!


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Good. Like I said before, you may never see any nitrites and if you do it may be something similar to what you're seeing on your nitrate test. For that test just remember to not count what you see much beyond 5 min - time of the test. Let it sit for 10-15 min and it is a nice bright orange.


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

Today: 

Ammonia: back to 4ppm
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: still darker than the yellow but not orange

What do i do? Another 50% water change?


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## phys (Feb 4, 2011)

yep.. and have you cut back your feeding?


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

s9601694 said:


> Today:
> 
> Ammonia: back to 4ppm
> Nitrite: 0
> ...


I'd be doing 50% everyday until the value hit 1.


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

s9601694 said:


> Today:
> 
> Ammonia: back to 4ppm
> Nitrite: 0
> ...


YEah i have, i now feed i of those flakes per tiger barb every other day


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

Is there anything you guys could think of that could be preventing a healthy bacteria growth?


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Nope. Bottom line is your tank is just taking longer than what is normally seen. Notice I didn't say longer than normal. There is not a normal time, but an average of 3-8 weeks that gets thrown around. Some finish sooner, others later. You just happen to have a later tank and they are all different. Maybe something happened along the way to stall it, possibly untreated water getting added to the tank, I dunno. Patience.

Have you tested any other water to make sure your ammonia test is working properly?


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

I may (probably? *old dude) be repeating myself but before you get all bent outta shape, test for free and total ammonia. If the 3ppm of ammonia is all total (locked) with extremely low free ammonia then you really have been worring about nothing.

Seachem has an ammonia multitest kit the measurea both. but most ammonia test kits actually measure combine both kinds and report the total of both. 

If that is true skip the water changes, skip the conditioners and in a short while the ammonia will drop down.

And of course all fast growing plants like anacharis to help as well.


my .02


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

jrman83 said:


> Nope. Bottom line is your tank is just taking longer than what is normally seen. Notice I didn't say longer than normal. There is not a normal time, but an average of 3-8 weeks that gets thrown around. Some finish sooner, others later. You just happen to have a later tank and they are all different. Maybe something happened along the way to stall it, possibly untreated water getting added to the tank, I dunno. Patience.
> 
> Have you tested any other water to make sure your ammonia test is working properly?


I'm patient.... veeeeeeery patient lol

I have tested other water (tap --> 0 ammonia) and have had my water tested at LFS, same readings


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

beaslbob said:


> I may (probably? *old dude) be repeating myself but before you get all bent outta shape, test for free and total ammonia. If the 3ppm of ammonia is all total (locked) with extremely low free ammonia then you really have been worring about nothing.
> 
> Seachem has an ammonia multitest kit the measurea both. but most ammonia test kits actually measure combine both kinds and report the total of both.
> 
> ...


Ok, i'll look into that Seachem kit.. Either way, even if most of the ammonia is locked up, water changes won't hurt would they?


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

s9601694 said:


> Ok, i'll look into that Seachem kit.. Either way, even if most of the ammonia is locked up, *water changes won't hurt would they*?


IMHO shocking and dangerous advice is yes water changes can hurt.

It very well could be the cycle has taken so long because of the water changes and in fact the cycle would have been over weeks ago without.

If the ammonia is locked (as indicated by the fact your fish are surviving) then there is no need to reduce the ammonia through water changes. Just let the tank process the ammonia and balance out.

Of course add live plants as well.

Still just my crazy advice worth at most. 




.02 *old dude


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

I don't recall the typical water changes associated with a high ammonia reading in this case. I don'think it has stalled it that much - not with still sustaining 4ppm. That is what I kept mine at with a fishless cycle. Better to save the fish than the cycle, IMO.

Not even worth your .02


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

beaslbob said:


> IMHO shocking and dangerous advice is yes water changes can hurt.
> 
> It very well could be the cycle has taken so long because of the water changes and in fact the cycle would have been over weeks ago without.
> 
> ...


Much appreciated advice for sure! (goes for all of you!)

Have you ever heard of/used this product? 

Seachem Ammonia Alert - Ammonia Monitor


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

s9601694 said:


> Much appreciated advice for sure! (goes for all of you!)
> 
> Have you ever heard of/used this product?
> 
> Seachem Ammonia Alert - Ammonia Monitor


"This product is not recommended for use at acid pH"

That would be my tank.. so i guess I'll just go with a test then


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

s9601694 said:


> Much appreciated advice for sure! (goes for all of you!)
> 
> Have you ever heard of/used this product?
> 
> Seachem Ammonia Alert - Ammonia Monitor


I have heard of those but haven't used one.

From what I hear it does detect the free ammonia and not the total ammonia.


my .02


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

Values today:

Ammonia: between 1 and 2
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: between 0 and 5


Its improving!!


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

You could be seeing the end of your cycle. As I said, I never saw any nitrites.


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## phys (Feb 4, 2011)

the seachem ammonia aleart really isnt that great of a thing after you get your tank established and everything running well. I've had one in my tank since i started in january and its never gone anywhere but zero since the cycle. Which is good! but still.. its just a comfort thing i think.. 

Sounds like things are gettin better in your tank! good stuff


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

phys said:


> the seachem ammonia aleart really isnt that great of a thing after you get your tank established and everything running well. I've had one in my tank since i started in january and its never gone anywhere but zero since the cycle. Which is good! but still.. its just a comfort thing i think..
> 
> Sounds like things are gettin better in your tank! good stuff


lol yeah you'll see that by the time the 'seachem ammonia alert' arrives, the tank has completed the cycle and ammonia = 0... but oh well, as long as it cycles i'm a happy camper!


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

You still have ammonia today? Usually once it starts to go down it goes fairly fast.


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

jrman83 said:


> You still have ammonia today? Usually once it starts to go down it goes fairly fast.


Havent tested yet, i'll test when i get home this afternoon.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

Perhaps this is just a case of the "watched pot the never boiled"


my .02


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

beaslbob said:


> Perhaps this is just a case of the "watched pot the never boiled"
> 
> 
> my .02


I'm just happy i remained patient. The tank looks great by the way, plants and fish are growing, algae only on a few anubias leaves and on drift wood closer to the surfice, non on the glass.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

sounds great.


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

Tonight:

Ammonia: 1ppm
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: much closer to the 5 than the 0 than yesterday!!

Looks like jrman83 will be proven right!


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

Alright, latest water numbers:

Ammonia: 0.25 ('free' ammonia 0)
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: I would say about 3 to 4 (a little less orange than 5)

Ammonia took a dive. I never say nitrites and Nitrates are going up very slowly... Must be the fast growing plants i have in there!

I have a stocking plan.. Shall I open a new thread or shall i post it here??

Finally a few pics of my tank.. sorry, but i am not a good aquarium photographer....


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## Scuff (Aug 10, 2010)

Always loved the corner bowfront tanks. Looks great!


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Glad it is finally over for you. Looks good.


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## phys (Feb 4, 2011)

looks good! hope it keeps going well


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## s9601694 (Feb 23, 2011)

Do you guys think a Jack Dempsey would be happy in there?


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## Alasse (Mar 12, 2009)

s9601694 said:


> I have a 54 gallon corner tank.. I set it up about 6 weeks ago with two large pieces of driftwood, 4 anubias and two sword plants I let is cycle with the heater on so that after a few days the temperature was at 80 degrees. I then added 7 Tiger barbs and a week later another 5. One died within 12 hours, i attributed that to non-tank-related-factors. Here i am, 6 weeks later and the Ammonia level has been at 4 ppm for weeks now. Nitrate/Nitrate have not been above 0. Due to the large amount of drift wood the PH is pretty steady at 6.5 and about 0 hardness.
> 
> The barbs are doing great, very active, beautiful colors and they grew in the last 5 weeks. The plants grew as well, anubias have pretty much latched on the rocks and wood. The water is very slightly "milky" and has a darker color. Last weekend i replaced the active carbon to attempt to get rid of that.
> 
> ...


When you set it up 6 weeks ago, what did you use to get it to cycle?


Ooopsss missed latest posts, seems you have it under control, nevermind *L*

Love the tank by the way


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