# Okay, Finally - API Master Kit Results...Please Help Me Analyze!



## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Alright. I finally got around to buying the API kit tonight, and took some readings, following the instructions EXACTLY as they were described...here are the results as my eyes saw them:

*Ph: 7.5
High Range Ph: 8.2
Ammonia: Between 0 and 0.25
Nitrite: Between 0.25 and 0.50
Nitrate: Somewhere Between 40 and 80 ppm*

Can someone help me analyze these? Seems to me, upon first glance at the color charts, that these results weren't _that_ bad, considering that I haven't done a water change in a long time based on the kinds of fish I'm keeping (fancytails)...

But what do you make of these results? Should I do a water change ASAP based on these? Do I need to get some chemicals into the tank? 

If anyone could assist with the results analysis, I would appreciate it...


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

It looks like your ph is 8.2. How long has your tank been up and running? If fairly new, then it has not finished cycling. If it is still cycling, I would normally say don't do a water change. But, since you say you haven't done one in a while I'd do a 35-50% change. You will need to do regular water changes with keeping goldfish, unless you like the look of a nasty looking tank. It may not look nasty now but it will after a few months. The cycle will be complete when ammonia and nitrite are zero.


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## probe1957 (Jul 2, 2010)

Your regular pH test kit will test up to, if memory serves, a pH value of 7.6. If your pH range is below 7.6, there is no need for you to use the high range pH test kit. If your pH is above 7.6, the regular pH test kit will only show it as 7.6. So, if you get a reading of 7.6 on the regular test kit, you need to test with the high range test kit. Based on what you have said here, and if my memory is correct that the regular pH test kit maxes out at 7.6, your pH is 7.5.

It appears to me that your tank isn't quite cycled, but it is close. Your ammonia reading is probably close enough to 0 that we can call it that. Your low but unacceptable nitrite reading and high nitrate reading is what leads me to conclude that your tank is nearly, but not yet cycled.

IMO, you need to do an immediate 50% water change. Your nitrates are too high. I wouldn't let them get over 40 ppm. I prefer they not get over 20 ppm, but I am anal.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

The low end of the high range test is 7.4 and the high end of the normal ph test kit is 7.6. I don't have a card in front of me. The color difference on the test card of a high range 7.4 and 8.2 is subtle. But, if the color matches the 8.2 test then that is the ph. The color is very close.


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## probe1957 (Jul 2, 2010)

You think the color difference is subtle now, wait 'til you're an old fart like me.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

LOL, just how old are you?


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## probe1957 (Jul 2, 2010)

53. And feeling every second.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> It looks like your ph is 8.2.


I did both Ph tests supplied in the kit...

Which one should I be looking at? 



> How long has your tank been up and running? If fairly new, then it has not finished cycling. If it is still cycling, I would normally say don't do a water change.


It has been set up since around the end of August or so -- and so I don't know if this constitutes "fairly new" or not. I have no idea what is going on with the cycling; just when I put the AquaClear on it a couple of weeks ago, I completed a routine of Seachem's Stability, and I just don't know what's going on with my water...



> But, since you say you haven't done one in a while I'd do a 35-50% change. You will need to do regular water changes with keeping goldfish, unless you like the look of a nasty looking tank. It may not look nasty now but it will after a few months.


I am going to do the change over the next day or so...



> The cycle will be complete when ammonia and nitrite are zero.


I've been told this, but how do I get the cycle completed?


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

probe1957 said:


> Your regular pH test kit will test up to, if memory serves, a pH value of 7.6. If your pH range is below 7.6, there is no need for you to use the high range pH test kit. If your pH is above 7.6, the regular pH test kit will only show it as 7.6. So, if you get a reading of 7.6 on the regular test kit, you need to test with the high range test kit. Based on what you have said here, and if my memory is correct that the regular pH test kit maxes out at 7.6, your pH is 7.5.


I'm lost...

All I did was run both tests in the kit...



> It appears to me that your tank isn't quite cycled, but it is close.


That's what I'm being told...



> Your ammonia reading is probably close enough to 0 that we can call it that. Your low but unacceptable nitrite reading and high nitrate reading is what leads me to conclude that your tank is nearly, but not yet cycled.


Okay...so what do I need to do in order to complete the cycle? 



> IMO, you need to do an immediate 50% water change. Your nitrates are too high. I wouldn't let them get over 40 ppm. I prefer they not get over 20 ppm, but I am anal.


I am going to get on a water change ASAP...

Will doing the water change push this cycle closer to completion?


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## James0816 (Jun 19, 2009)

Let's back track just a bit.

First off...do not use any chems. They are a recipe for disaster.

We'll start with the pH test. First test using the regular pH tester. If that hits the high end, then you want use the High Range pH. If you're not hitting 7.4 on the regular test, you don't need to worry about using the High Range.

Cycling. You're tank should be cycled at this point from August and especially with Goldies.

NitrAtes between 40-80 = Bad. Definately need to do a water change. Your readings on NitrAtes should be no higher than 40. 10-20 is a good average reading. With Goldies, this will be high unless you stay on top of routine maintenance.

The presence of NitrItes signifies a possible mini cycle which leads to my next question...

The AquaClear...is that a new filter or a second filter? Can you provide more info on that? If new, did you by chance transfer any of the old media into it?

Let's go from there.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

I think the ph test was probably done wrong. Did you put 3 drops for the regular, 5 drops for the high? I say this because if when you test using the low-end test and you don't hit the high end, if you do a high range test you should hit close to the low end of it. This didn't happen. He hit in the middle of the high test of 8.2.

I think the tank has a perpetual ammonia problem. Is the end of August when fish were added?


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

James0816 said:


> Let's back track just a bit.
> 
> First off...do not use any chems. They are a recipe for disaster.


Okay...I was just asking incase there was anything I should put in the water to get some of these numbers better...



> We'll start with the pH test. First test using the regular pH tester. If that hits the high end, then you want use the High Range pH. If you're not hitting 7.4 on the regular test, you don't need to worry about using the High Range.


I see; I ran both anyway...



> Cycling. You're tank should be cycled at this point from August and especially with Goldies.


Then what in the name of Christ on a cracker is going on in this tank? 



> NitrAtes between 40-80 = Bad. Definately need to do a water change. Your readings on NitrAtes should be no higher than 40. 10-20 is a good average reading. With Goldies, this will be high unless you stay on top of routine maintenance.


I am going to get on a water change ASAP...



> The presence of NitrItes signifies a possible mini cycle which leads to my next question...
> 
> The AquaClear...is that a new filter or a second filter? Can you provide more info on that? If new, did you by chance transfer any of the old media into it?
> 
> Let's go from there.


Okay. With the AquaClear, it was a replacement filter for a small Aqueon I was running in addition to a larger Aqueon QuietFlow 55 -- I replaced the small Aqueon with the AquaClear to run in conjunction with the Aqueon 55 (which is still running), but I didn't fill the AquaClear with any media from the old filter...


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> I think the ph test was probably done wrong. Did you put 3 drops for the regular, 5 drops for the high?


Yes -- ALL directions were followed TO THE LETTER. 



> I say this because if when you test using the low-end test and you don't hit the high end, if you do a high range test you should hit close to the low end of it. This didn't happen. He hit in the middle of the high test of 8.2.
> 
> I think the tank has a perpetual ammonia problem. Is the end of August when fish were added?


It was many weeks after the tank was set up and the Aqueon QuietFlow 55 was running that we added the fish...


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

probe1957 said:


> 53. And feeling every second.



still a kid


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

I would say the tank had cycled but with very little water changes with goldies those kind of ammonia, nitrite and nitrates is very possible. Water changes are a must when it comes to goldies as they are major waste producers.
If you changed the filters without moving filter material to the new filter you are also in a mini cycle.
The only chemicals that you should use is a good dechlorinator. I use prime myself as do most people on this forum. It not only detoxifies chlorine also chloramine which can be worse than the chlorine. It also helps to get rid of certain metals that is normally found in water.
I would suggest until the tank is straightened out to do a couple of 50% water changes a week then when it settles you should be able to cut back to one a week.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

susankat said:


> I would say the tank had cycled but with very little water changes with goldies those kind of ammonia, nitrite and nitrates is very possible. Water changes are a must when it comes to goldies as they are major waste producers.
> If you changed the filters without moving filter material to the new filter you are also in a mini cycle.


As always, Susan, thanks...

That must be what is happening, and I'm aware that they're big waste producers...I just have had some really bad luck and experiences with water changes, but that's a topic for a new day...



> The only chemicals that you should use is a good dechlorinator. I use prime myself as do most people on this forum. It not only detoxifies chlorine also chloramine which can be worse than the chlorine. It also helps to get rid of certain metals that is normally found in water.


I do use Prime. 



> I would suggest until the tank is straightened out to do a couple of 50% water changes a week then when it settles you should be able to cut back to one a week.


Does it have to be 50%? What about around 25?


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

You can do multiple 25% water changes. I would also do a good gravel vacuuming.


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## Martini2108 (Jul 23, 2010)

The only time I've ever done a 50% water change is when I've been treating tank/tank's with meds or water quality has gone way down. Most I normally do is a 35% don't like going higher than that. Just like to keep as much established water as I can. But that being said I have no where near as much experience as susan.


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## probe1957 (Jul 2, 2010)

ClinicaTerra said:


> Does it have to be 50%? What about around 25?


As a keeper of major waste producer fish, just like you are, 50% water changes makes life easier. By changing 50% of my water, I can get by with only doing one WC per week. As I mentioned, I like my nitrate reading to remain below 20 ppm. I don't believe changing just 25% of my water every week would do that, but changing 50% does. It is really no more work to change 50% than it is 25%.

I continue to believe your cycle is nearly complete. Change water as needed to keep your nitrate below 40 ppm and I think, in short time, things will be sorted out. IMO, you are doing fine.


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## probe1957 (Jul 2, 2010)

susankat said:


> still a kid


What a sweetheart.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

If 35% is as high as you want to go then do that daily until your levels are back under control. After that a weekly 35% may be all you need, just have to test the water to see if it is working for you.


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

I have found that one thing a lot of people don't understand is there is very little beneficial in the water for being established. Being established is mainly pertaining to filters, deco, substrate, even the walls of the tank. When it comes to water changes in a glass box you can do 99% without any harm as long as the water is treated and at least very close to temp. And you don't do any heavy cleaning of anything else.


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

When it comes to water changes and nitrates you need to do a little math. If your nitrates are sitting at 80, in order to bring it down to 40 you will have to do a 50% water change, if you want it lower than that you will have to do more. That is why I suggested 2 a week to bring those levels down. Once those levels are down you can test your water for nitrate and tell the percentage of water you need to change.

I have some tanks that get only a 15% change because the bio load is small enough that is all that is needed, But I also have a tank that gets 90% change a couple times a week, and mind you it is only a snail tank, but there is many in the tank as they are my breeder mystery snails.


Probe your welcome, When you get my age you really feel it.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

susankat said:


> When it comes to water changes and nitrates you need to do a little math. If your nitrates are sitting at 80, in order to bring it down to 40 you will have to do a 50% water change, if you want it lower than that you will have to do more. That is why I suggested 2 a week to bring those levels down. Once those levels are down you can test your water for nitrate and tell the percentage of water you need to change.
> 
> I have some tanks that get only a 15% change because the bio load is small enough that is all that is needed, But I also have a tank that gets 90% change a couple times a week, and mind you it is only a snail tank, but there is many in the tank as they are my breeder mystery snails.
> 
> ...


Susan is absolutely correct.

The actual level of anything in your tank is also dependant on how that thing is increaseing or decreasing.

For nitrates (or anything else) assume some amount in the replacement water, some initial level, and some constant change.

As Sue correctly pointed out the tank will eventually approach the level in the replacement water with the water changes as long as there is no increase or decrease due to tank actions.

But what actually happens with the increase or decrease between water changes?

Once the values are the same water change to water change, the build up between changes must be removed by the water change.

So if you are doing a 1/10 water change the tank with have 10 times the build up just before a water change. Then drop down to 9 times. And back up to 10 times before the next change.

mathmetically:


before water change=amount in replacement water+(buildup between changes)/(fraction of water change)

In case anyone wants play with number consider a 1ppm increase/day and water change schedules that are 1%/day or multiples thereof. (1%/day 10%/10 days, 20%/20 days etc etc.)

What is the amount of that thing just before water changes once the final conditions are reached?


Ans: 100PPM plus whatever is in the replacement water just before the water changes in any of the schedules.

So if nitrates are building up at 1ppm/day the tank will have 100ppm nitrates before any of the water changes.

If a reef tank is consuming 1ppm calcium/day and replacement water had 400ppm calcium the tank will have 300ppm calcium just before any of the changes.

Both conditions are actually experienced in our tanks.

To keep conditions more constant you must either maintain an open system or control the changes in parameters.


my .02


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## jsenske (Dec 1, 2010)

Not at all trying to be flip, but from 30 years of experience, 20 of which as a professional aquarist (please see profile), I have found in nearly 100% of cases that most of these test kits are not perfectly accurate, but more importantly: in nearly every case where I felt compelled to test the water, the result of the testing either led me to do a water change OR a water change was due as part of regular maintenance anyway. We only test water routinely on marine aquariums as I find on freshwater aquariums (we have around 500 freshwater clients here in Houston) testing water is seldom necessary, but good, routine water CHANGES are. There are very few fish types where you don't want to do regular water changes as a matter of providing a specific condition type/parameter. 

In short: toss out the test kit and change the water. It's far easier and reduces the head-scratching and confusion that cheap and questionably accurate test kits can cause.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

jsenske said:


> Not at all trying to be flip, but from 30 years of experience, 20 of which as a professional aquarist (please see profile), I have found in nearly 100% of cases that most of these test kits are not perfectly accurate, but more importantly: in nearly every case where I felt compelled to test the water, the result of the testing either led me to do a water change OR a water change was due as part of regular maintenance anyway. We only test water routinely on marine aquariums as I find on freshwater aquariums (we have around 500 freshwater clients here in Houston) testing water is seldom necessary, but good, routine water CHANGES are. There are very few fish types where you don't want to do regular water changes as a matter of providing a specific condition type/parameter.
> 
> In short: toss out the test kit and change the water. It's far easier and reduces the head-scratching and confusion that cheap and questionably accurate test kits can cause.


I appreciate this reply, but it's just that after spending nearly 40 bucks on the API kit -- which replaced the Jungle strips I was previously using -- I'd like to use it to get a handle on what's going on with my tank; I have been told repeatedly by members of different aquarium support forums that I absolutely had to get this API kit and needed to ditch my strips I was using...now, you're telling me to ditch the API kit...jeez Louise...

I'll get on the water change, though...we've had a nightmare of a time getting the gravel vac we bought to work...


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

ClinicaTerra said:


> I appreciate this reply, but it's just that after spending nearly 40 bucks on the API kit -- which replaced the Jungle strips I was previously using -- I'd like to use it to get a handle on what's going on with my tank; I have been told repeatedly by members of different aquarium support forums that I absolutely had to get this API kit and needed to ditch my strips I was using...now, you're telling me to ditch the API kit...jeez Louise...
> 
> ...
> ...


It's even worse then that.

I have found that by starting the tanks with plant life (fw live plants, marine macro algaes) There is no need for either water changes or testing. ammonia, nitrates, phosphates are all unmeasureable. with peat moss kh and gh are constant, ph rises indicating very low carbon dioxide levels.

on marine reef type tanks I do test to determine calcium/alk/magnesium dosing.

my .02


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

So who/what then am I supposed to believe?


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

ClinicaTerra said:


> So who/what then am I supposed to believe?


your own experience.


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

Just do your tests until you feel comfortable with it.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Thanks Susan...

It's difficult to follow Bob's suggestion of "my own experience" because this is the first time using the API kit for me...

I just didn't really understand the results I got, and what they meant for my water's condition -- I will do a water change soon and report back with the changes in these numbers, if there were any. :fish9:

Also -- what do you mean by "until I am comfortable with it"...isn't there a standard here that I should be shooting for in terms of safe numbers? Is it really a matter of "comfort"?


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## Martini2108 (Jul 23, 2010)

Ok so by comfortable (can't speak for susan) but i believe she mean's use the test kit until you feel like you have a grasp on you're tank, i.e. able to see that the fish are acting odd when they are, tell that water conditions are unfavorable by color/odor. I believe that's what she was talking about.

As for safe lvl's on the readings
Ammonia should stay at 0 or .25 PPM any higher is unsafe I believe 
Nitrite the same that applies to ammonia 
Nitrates no higher than around 40 ppm (most think that's to high as do I) but that's the highest I think they can get a still be "safe"


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## mfgann (Oct 21, 2010)

ClinicaTerra said:


> *Ph: 7.5
> High Range Ph: 8.2
> Ammonia: Between 0 and 0.25
> Nitrite: Between 0.25 and 0.50
> Nitrate: Somewhere Between 40 and 80 ppm*


You've gotten a lot of responses, and most all make sense, in one way or another, but it isn't an exact thing. Different people have different approaches. I think knowing the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate and pH is useful, especially the more experienced you get.
Looking at the pH tests, it looks like you maxed out the regular pH test, and the high range pH is the one that is accurate. So you have hard water. Most fish adjust to hard water just fine, just don't do anything to cause huge pH swings (adding pH up or down chemicals is worse on the fish than a stable pH that is off their preferred value). 
Ammonia and Nitrite are both showing a little, but not bad. Above 1ppm is considered bad for them.. but I've some fish doing okay in water that has nitrites at about 3 or 4 ppm.. waiting for the cycle to complete. Nitrates should be below 30 or 40ppm. You can do this with regular water changes. If you wish the tank to handle the nitrates itself you can add a lot of live plants to consume the nitrates, otherwise it is up to you to do weekly water changes.

All in all I think you're on the right track and things are settling down nicely.


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## James0816 (Jun 19, 2009)

Guys...please let's not confuse the OP.

I will say though that you did the right thing in getting the drop kits. The strips are more suseptable for contamination and misreads.

Clinica, as you have discovered, you will hear opinions and advise from many aquarists from all experience levels. You may or may not have to do this or that. It's all about the learning. I myself would highly recommend you to test your water periodically to get a good "feel" for what your tank is doing. Once you gain that knowledge, you then can make the determination whether to test or not going forward.


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## probe1957 (Jul 2, 2010)

Testing water is critical WHILE THE TANK IS CYCLING. Once it is established, not so much.

I test my water every week prior to my WC but really, there is little point. Ammonia and nitrite is ALWAYS 0 and nitrate is ALWAYS around 10 ppm. I am really not sure why I feel the need to confirm that everything is okay every week.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

as you get more experience with the kits and aquarium methods you will find what works for you and it will become less and less confusing.

And your methods will vary from others' methods by varing degrees.

Sure I recommend a particular formula. Which seem to contradict others' methods.

Yet they and I have successful tanks.

So your confusion is understandable.

But you will be less and less confused as you gain experience.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Martini2108 said:


> Ok so by comfortable (can't speak for susan) but i believe she mean's use the test kit until you feel like you have a grasp on you're tank, i.e. able to see that the fish are acting odd when they are, tell that water conditions are unfavorable by color/odor. I believe that's what she was talking about.


Thanks Martini. 



> As for safe lvl's on the readings
> Ammonia should stay at 0 or .25 PPM any higher is unsafe I believe
> Nitrite the same that applies to ammonia
> Nitrates no higher than around 40 ppm (most think that's to high as do I) but that's the highest I think they can get a still be "safe"


Okay; thanks for breaking this down more succinctly for me! I just did a water change yesterday, with disasterous results (I started a thread about this) so I will check back in when I take new readings tomorrow...

We'll see what happened to the levels.


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