# How minimal a tank can I set up for hermits & snails?



## jells (Oct 15, 2012)

My 10 year old daughter wants to keep some beach collected critters, despite my telling her it's not as easy as a goldfish bowl. I have freshwater tank experience, a 10 gal setup available, and saltwater is minutes away. Can we do this with water changes and basic filters rather than getting deep into chemistry? I've looked at some salt primers and the costs to do this "right" is beyond what I'm prepared to do. A tank of local freshwater fauna is likely a much better idea.

Thanks for any info.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

we recently had a person who has been trying to run salt aquarium with natural resources(lived on island).Their water quality was less than suitable and no matter how often they took bucket to beach their nitrAtes(I think) were still unmanagable(deaths to live stock). I can't say you can't make it work but you still need a test kit to know where your water quality is at.As it turns out they got vodka dosing info from reefing madness and said they finally saw an improvement in water quality.I'm sad to say (but not suprised to see)that the standards many keep there aquariums at is higher than that of "fresh ocean water".It's a shame but as a whole people have little regard for care of one of our greatest natural assets(along with rain forest).The island persons problem was water with to high nitrates for survival of their fish(water straight from the ocean.) So sad!


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## majerah1 (Oct 29, 2010)

First and foremost I must point out the goldfish bowl is not simple, and its frowned upon as the fish( being pond fish) need much larger suitable housing. 

Second It would be extremely difficult to care for such a small tank in this manner. With fresh it would be a little easier but salt is a tad different. Ill let a pro answer more into the salt question. 

Third, welcome to the forum


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

coralbandit said:


> we recently had a person who has been trying to run salt aquarium with natural resources(lived on island).Their water quality was less than suitable and no matter how often they took bucket to beach their nitrAtes(I think) were still unmanagable(deaths to live stock). I can't say you can't make it work but you still need a test kit to know where your water quality is at.As it turns out they got vodka dosing info from reefing madness and said they finally saw an improvement in water quality.I'm sad to say (but not suprised to see)that the standards many keep there aquariums at is higher than that of "fresh ocean water".It's a shame but as a whole people have little regard for care of one of our greatest natural assets(along with rain forest).The island persons problem was water with to high nitrates for survival of their fish(water straight from the ocean.) So sad!


Agreed.
Test the water in which you are going to use, your testing for Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates, at minimum. Water that is close to the beaches is not normally considered a good quality water source to use. Not saying you can't do it. But test first. 10g would be the smallest tank that I would recommend using. Make sure you use a powerhead for water movement, and a heater. Give it a whirl, but what the numbers. You would be looking at water changes based on those readings.


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## jells (Oct 15, 2012)

Reefing Madness said:


> Agreed.
> Test the water in which you are going to use, your testing for Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates, at minimum. Water that is close to the beaches is not normally considered a good quality water source to use. Not saying you can't do it. But test first. 10g would be the smallest tank that I would recommend using. Make sure you use a powerhead for water movement, and a heater. Give it a whirl, but what the numbers. You would be looking at water changes based on those readings.


So, will the basic in tank carbon/fiber filter I have work for the movement & filtering? Why would I need a heater for creatures that survive winter water temps in the 40's? Would gravel from the shore be the best substrate?

As for the goldfish bowl, we're kinda surprised that the 1/2" snail and feeder goldfish have survived for months in a vase. I guess some ponds are just lower quality than others. But do I understand the desire to do the best you can, we've been into reptiles for some time and always try our best.


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

Well then, if your talking cold water creatures, then I'll say your not going to be able to keep them alive in warm water tanks.
Pebble substrate will hold debre in it and anything uneaten, and will in time cause you Nitrate issues. Filters don't normally provide any kind of water flow, they usually just push water across the surface, you want to move water underneath to keep any crap from accumulating. But, your mechanical will work as far as keeping the water looking clean.


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## jells (Oct 15, 2012)

Reefing Madness said:


> Well then, if your talking cold water creatures, then I'll say your not going to be able to keep them alive in warm water tanks.
> Pebble substrate will hold debre in it and anything uneaten, and will in time cause you Nitrate issues. Filters don't normally provide any kind of water flow, they usually just push water across the surface, you want to move water underneath to keep any crap from accumulating. But, your mechanical will work as far as keeping the water looking clean.


Temperate waters here warm up to the 70's in summer, even warmer in the shallows where the crabs and snails are caught. I'd say they're pretty adaptable.

So what substrate do you recommend? The in-tank filter (we had gotten it for a hatchling snapping turtle we kept for a year) blows quite a current. It would shoot the snapper across the tank!


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

sand from same source as water,small rocks also but not a gravel type base as debris will be trapped and degrade water quality.keep in mind how much surface movement takes place in the shallows.If a plant with roots or attached to rock can be found that will be helpful also.The little bugs found squirming under rocks(when you flip them) are coepods and one of the most helpful things you can add also.When you see foam or bubbles on the oceans surface those are organic protiens and the bubbling is natures way of removing them from water(they're waste and form toxins no good for anything).Constant water movement will be the best thing you can provide.If you think the critters can tolerate colder water add no heat as cooler water carries more dissolved oxygen.


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