# Clown Loach Ich



## OCTOhalie (Mar 25, 2014)

So, a couple of days ago I noticed a small white spot on my cory cat. I quickly checked my other mates to see if they, too, had any spots. They didn't.

In somewhat of a panic for my small (~2") clown loaches in the tank (who are ich magnets), I picked up some quICK cure and started with 1/2 dose two days ago in hopes of stopping it before it reached the clowns. The temp stays at 84/85 degrees so I am kind of wondering how the ich has survived and traveled to my clowns within the 2 days.. WITH treatment! *c/p*

I started with removing carbon and used half dose the first day (~20 drops for 55 gal), went to ~30 drops yesterday and this morning I dosed ~40 drops. Today is the first day I have seen any white dots on my clowns. There are no more than 4 small dots on each of the loaches. Also, one of my mickey mouse platys was found dead this morning with no warning. No signs of distress/discomfort or disease.. I am wondering if the higher temps/meds caused him to stress too much. Everyone seems to be alright though the cory cats do seem a little less active than usual.

So...

Should I do a partial water change? I have plenty of QC left for several days. The last PWC was about 5 days ago. Water parameters looked fine yesterday.

What do you suggest in how to kill ich and keep my fish alive? I don't want anymore deaths. I feel like I am going to have a nervous breakdown! *frown
Please help with any experienced information or tips! Thanks in advance..

*I also have 4 bronze cory cats, 2 dalmation mollies and 1 remaining mickey mouse platy.*


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

I always like to change water during medical treatments.Just replace meds for amount of water changed.
In the link on the lifecycle of ich,it says that ich can only be killed from the time it falls from fish to the time it is done multiplying and searching for new host.Ballparking that is 3-4 days in a 7-9 day life cycle.You need to keep up with meds for at least 5-7 days after the last spot is seen on the fish.The ichs fall off fish(fooling many into thinking they're cured) where it settles in the substrate and multiplies possibly by the thousands!.So a good vaccum of substrate and meds ESPECIALLY when you first notice you DON'T see spots on fish is how to kill them.
I would do a 50% water change redose for removed water,and keep close eye on everyone.
Do your meds say to dose everyday?IMO if you still see the coloring in water the med is still present and active.
Your temp is high enough to speed up life cycle but not kill it.I would question how accurate your thermometer is also.It may be no more accurate than your heater you say is on lowest setting.


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## OCTOhalie (Mar 25, 2014)

coralbandit said:


> I always like to change water during medical treatments.Just replace meds for amount of water changed.
> In the link on the lifecycle of ich,it says that ich can only be killed from the time it falls from fish to the time it is done multiplying and searching for new host.Ballparking that is 3-4 days in a 7-9 day life cycle.You need to keep up with meds for at least 5-7 days after the last spot is seen on the fish.The ichs fall off fish(fooling many into thinking they're cured) where it settles in the substrate and multiplies possibly by the thousands!.So a good vaccum of substrate and meds ESPECIALLY when you first notice you DON'T see spots on fish is how to kill them.
> I would do a 50% water change redose for removed water,and keep close eye on everyone.
> Do your meds say to dose everyday?IMO if you still see the coloring in water the med is still present and active.
> Your temp is high enough to speed up life cycle but not kill it.I would question how accurate your thermometer is also.It may be no more accurate than your heater you say is on lowest setting.


alright. thank you so much. Should i do one now since I just gave meds this morning or wait until tomorrow (before I dose again) to do a pwc? 
Should I be doing one every day before the meds or?.. 

so the temp will help speed up the process to when they will actually fall off? I have just heard of so many cases where fish die from it.. I wanna be sure it's gone for sure. 

Yes, the quick cure says to dose everyday for 3 days which treats 400 gallons. But I am not doing full doses (yet) so it is lasting longer and I will carry it out until needed (up to a week after the spots go away like you said). The stuff is dark blue in color but the coloring quickly goes away after several minutes in the water so it's hard to say.

I think your last comment about the thermometer and heater accuracy is on point.. The heater is certainly on the lowest setting and for a 55 gal, I didn't think a 300w heater would keep the temp so high. I am running low on funds so a new heater isn't really in the books for me right this second. As far as the thermometer, I am not sure.. It's just a cheap glass one that sticks to the side. The tank came with one of those stick on thermometers as well (one like you could stick on your forehead) and that one seems to be saying ~84.. So I think it may be close at least.

thanks again for all your current (and future) help. lol


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

I use the cheapest glass thermometers as well and have found them to much more accurate than many others.With a second one stuck on glass(which those aren't usaully as accurate),it is fairly safe to say your temp reading is pretty close to accurate at least.
You can change water any time you want during meds as long as you redose the proper amount of meds for water removed.
The coloring in my experience with dye based meds usaully last at least a day,but since you are using partial doses could be fine.Sounds like your upto full dose now if 20 drops was 1/2 and your upto 40 drops?
Today or tomorrow do a 50% waterchange and add your 40drops(if that is where you are at)after.
The timming is important,and as often as I say follow directions you really want the strongest dose of meds to go in the tank when you see the spots fall off fish(that's when you {the meds} can really kill the ich).So when you see less spots or missing spots dose water again,after a good substrate vaccum.
I know often links are all science and hard to understand ,but if you even got 1/2 of what the columnaris link said go back and read the ich link.It is the most useful information on killing ich I have found in my 30+ years of fish keeping and is an easy read in comparison.


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## OCTOhalie (Mar 25, 2014)

coralbandit said:


> I use the cheapest glass thermometers as well and have found them to much more accurate than many others.With a second one stuck on glass(which those aren't usaully as accurate),it is fairly safe to say your temp reading is pretty close to accurate at least.
> You can change water any time you want during meds as long as you redose the proper amount of meds for water removed.
> The coloring in my experience with dye based meds usaully last at least a day,but since you are using partial doses could be fine.Sounds like your upto full dose now if 20 drops was 1/2 and your upto 40 drops?
> Today or tomorrow do a 50% waterchange and add your 40drops(if that is where you are at)after.
> ...


Well that makes me feel a bit better, about the temp at least. My tank is 55 gal and it says to use 1 drop per gallon every day for 3 days. But I wanted to ramp up kind of slowly to keep an eye on their behavior since they are so sensitive to this stuff (it has malachite green in it). I have been going up 10 drops/day. 

So do you think I should keep it at ~30/40 until I see the spots falling off/disappearing and THEN use the full amount? I don't wanna keep using high doses over a long period and it just be burning their skin, ya know?

Apparently the cycle has just started because there are only like.. 2 on the smallest clown and about 4/5 on the larger one. 
I will go back and read the link about ich and see what I can gather from it. I will do the water change tomorrow and a light vacuum before dosing just to be safe.


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