# Sump Question



## hotwingz

Ok so I have my sump made and I have had it running. I sat and watched it for 15-20 or so. It seemed to work properly. My only concerns are. Its loud! And I don't like how close to the top of the tank it gets. I have an over flow box. Its not drilled. I think I should be able to just make the slots that allow water into the box deeper. The other issue is that the drain is loud. The drain tube is much bigger than it needs. But when I had the smaller tube it wasn't enough. I have pictures ill see if I can get them up.


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## coralbandit

I use to keep a folded towel over my overflow box to keep it quieter.
A ball valve in your return line and you could slow down your return pump to have proper flow.
Can you lower the box so the water doesn't go as high in the tank?
Possibly making the slots bigger will work if you could do that.
Do you know the GPH of the overflow and pump?The overflow should always be rated higher than pump IMO.


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## hotwingz

I'm not sure exactly what the gph on any of my equipment. It was all hand me down type. But my overflow is definitely higher rate than my pump. I like the ball valve idea. That will help keep some air out of the down tube. I do wonder how much my noise issue is there is air bubbles getting into the u tube from water flowing into the overflow box. I wonder if I lower the slots in the box would help with the air bubbles.


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## coralbandit

Watch out for the air bubbles!They are the demise of overflow boxes ,as without a TOM pump to remove air in the tube(like on eshopps overflows) or the complete overflow chamber on CPR units eventually enough air will build up to cause the overflow to fail and your sump to be pumped completely dry into your tank and overflowing all over your floors!
Amazon.com: TOM Aquarium Aqua Lifter Pump 3.5gph flow rate to 30 inches height: Pet Supplies


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## jrman83

Actually you want air in the down tube to reduce the noise or actually a path to release the air. This is why CPR Aquatics has one of the more quiet overflows. They use what is essentially a straw to let air in.

Did you make your own overflow? Or if you bought one did you match the rate of drain to the pump?


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## coralbandit

jrman83 said:


> Actually you want air in the down tube to reduce the noise or actually a path to release the air. This is why CPR Aquatics has one of the more quiet overflows. They use what is essentially a straw to let air in.


In the down tube yes.
In the syphon tube is emmenent failure and flooding.
A rigid airline tube inserted into the down tube may help with the noise.
Also having no sagging in the drain tube so gravity moves all water (not pressure from water building up to push it through) will be helpful.If the the drain tube is as tight as possible then air should flow in the tube without any addition of tubing.


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## hotwingz

I did buy or make the overflow. It was given to me. But watching it work, I am comfortable saying it is enough to match the pump. My issue isn't rate of the drain, its the noise and water level of the tank. The water level should be an easy fix with making the holes lower. Where I'm getting air is just micro bubbles in the siphon tube from the water coming into the overflow. Now if I lower the holes I suspect it will also help with that seeing as the water wont be falling as far. Bandit I like your idea of an air tube in the drain tube. Because the top of the drain tube will close with water on occasion and that's when I get my most noise.


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## coralbandit

Pay close attention to the micro bubbles.Where the slots are probly won't change them.As the bubbles accumulate they will slow the flow and the gather more bubbles(some of the micro bubbles probly make it all the way through now) as the syphon is at full speed.When they accumulate the syphon will slow and bubbles will accumulate faster.I have had TOO MANY overflows from failed syphons.The CPR and reef octopus overflows rule(I have a reef octopus 1200GPH on my 29G),but would never have a box again without the TOM.I never knew about them before.
Even if the bubbles don't get you(I bet they will though) consider power failures.Some overflow boxes will lose syphon when the power fails and when the power comes back on the pump will run your sump dry.The TOM aqualifter is a small price to pay for the safety it provides(I use one on my 29G).
If the drain pipe gets full to the top then it is not flowing by gravity,but by force.Take all slack out of the drain hose.It can not ever be below the intake of the sump or you have to force the water through.Keeping the drain hose tight and always above the intake of sump will make it quieter and flow even faster.


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## hotwingz

Well I have turned my pump on and off several times and I haven't lost siphon yet. As of now all of the micro bubbles are passing through and not stopping in the tube. Also my drain tube has no slack. Its a 1" plastic tube. It doesn't really have any flex in it. If I wanted it to move a different direction to route it I would have to use PVC fittings. And what does this TOM pump do?


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## coralbandit

Another way to get rid of the bubbles (once you work out the water level in tank) is to add your replacement water(for evap) to the tank quickly to raise the water level and force the bubbles through.

This is my filter for my 75G. It has to syphon overflow tubes(1 1/2 " pvc on the right and left) to take water from main filter to second stage(first 29g) and another 1 1/2 to go from first 29G to second 29g.Over time bubbles even build up in them so I have a power head with tube(in picture it is tube from last 29 back to first main filter) that I turn on every week or so .When I pump water back it lowers the level in the last 29 and raises it in the first section blowing the bubbles through.three of my sumps are like this with the syphon tube and by just raising the water level with pump I never lose syphon.I can tell when the bubbles are slowing it down because the water levels will not be the same(it will be higher in the first or second compared to the last).about 1 minute of pumping and all the bubbles are out.


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## coralbandit

The Tom pump is installed by drilling a hole in the syphon tube(top) and inserting a tube to go to the pump and back to the tank(not filter).The Tom is an air pump that sucks out the air(if there is any) and otherwise pumps water.If any bubbles get stuck in the syphon it will suck them out and you will have full flow.
AQUA LIFTER AW-20 - YouTube


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## jrman83

I was just going to say that there are numerous videos on youtube on how to quiet sumps...


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## hotwingz

I could see that little guy being useful. But I feel like now that I have a running sump I am more afraid to let it keep running. I'm in an apartment so I can't really afford to let this fail. I have a windows phone and haven't figured out a source to do photbucket basically. I do have a tablet at home I will try and post my sump.


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## coralbandit

Sumps NEVER overflow if they are not overfilled and then shutoff(powerfailure).
Tanks overflow,due to overflowbox failure all the time!
How ever much volume your sump holds is how much can end up on the floor if the skimmer/overflow box fails.My LFS had the Tom aqualifter for like $13.I couldn't say no with all my experiences(too many overflows).Only my 29g has a overflow box(greatly oversized) and my other 4 tanks that run sumps are AGA/Aqueon mega overflows(drilled).I'll never buy another tank that is not drilled unless it is for breeding or fry.


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## hotwingz

Well I would love to drill my next tank, but this time its not an option. Here's some pics of my set up.


Yes that's a bed sheet used to cover my stand! I'm classy like that.


I believe it to be a 1" siphone tube and 1.25" drain tube. My drain pipe is 1".


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## coralbandit

I have an overflow box like that.If you add an inch or 2 inside the back of the box it will raise the level in front and back and may eliminate some of the buble issue.Your hose does look tight,that's good.The screw that holds the cup in the tank should aloow to raise or lower it.You could make the slots bigger or even remove them completely.The screw on the bottom(on the outside ) is a leveler,but if you tip the cup(in the tank) more it will lower the level in the tank.(put a block inbetween the screw and tank to get more space).
A pound prefilter sponge may lower noise and will make maintenance in the filter less frequent.


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## hotwingz

So does the set up look good? Did I do it right lol. I'm just having trust issues.


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## coralbandit

It all looks good!Just tip the skimmer into the tank to lower the level of water or lower the cup if possible if you want your water level (in tank) lower.I always aim for just above the band so I don't see the surface or any hard water stains.
I meant to say add 1 or 2 inches of pvc into the drain and it will raise the level water has to build up in back to flow down tube and therefore raise the water level in the cup.This may solve micro bubble problems.
As far as trust issues the only thing that should concern you is keeping water flowing through the overflow box(so your tank doesn't flood.The sump looks good and will give you no trouble.


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## hotwingz

Ok well that makes me feel better. I do feel like the box is enough to handle the pump. Now the bubbles. Its in the siphon tube I need to worry about correct? When I watched it the few times I've had it running they seem to just flow through with the water. They didn't try and gather. From I gathered anyways. I kinda understand this TOM pump you mentioned. But i feel like a either a check valve would do the same thing. Also it would be fairly difficult to set the depth of the line for the pump to not just suck out water or just be in the way.


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## coralbandit

The pump does suck water!Mine runs 24/7 and the whole idea is there will never be bubbles in the tube.The pump is made to suck the water(why it is called "Aqua lifter").I used to use a check valve and air hose to suck out bubbles(I had to suck),and then always left the tube in water so it could not fail no matter what.With the aqualifter you can install a check valve(no harm).On your overflow it would be installed just like the you tube video.From the top of the syphon tube and returning to tank(mine has the airline{hose} submerged) so if there is a power failure it can't draw air no matter what.I am kind of over kill and as safety orientated as I can be.


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## hotwingz

When it comes to not making your room a lake you can't be too safe. I would be inclined to get one of these pumps. I wont be able to get one of these pumps for a few weeks. How or what do I do to make this thing safe to run. I still have my fluval 306 running and will continue to use for a while until the sump is seeded. But I need this sump running. I have a peacock cichlid tank that's way over stocked. That's why I wanted to jump up my filter. I had two canisters running and it helped. Anyways. What can I do to make this thing run safely now.


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## hotwingz

Ok. So I finally got to let it run for more than a few minutes. I made some adjustments. I used the "leveling" screw on the overflow to tilt it forward and lower the water level. Worked perfect! Used a small piece of cut to fit floss and tried to stuff it in the down tube. Restricted flow too much pulled it almost all the way out. It barley sits on top now. But kills almost all the noise. I let it run for almost four hours and had steady water levels at all points! Super happy! I was told to turn it off before bed but, a small victory for the day. I spent a good amount of time watching the u tube to see if air would collect. And the air was moving way too fast through the tube to even try to collect. Is this something I should worry about still? This is an overflow box that was part of a manufactured sump. I just wanted to make my own


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## catfisherpro

I just got done hooking up my new sump most of my noise was coming out of the drain pipe vent I just stuffed an old filter in the tube to muffle it an its quiet now. My cabinet I have lined in dyno mat sound dampening its used to keep the exhaust sound of hotrods down when cabinet is closed u can't even tell water is flowing into it


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## coralbandit

BE CAREFUL using anything to "clog" the down tube.If it clogs or slows the pump will still flow full speed.They make round sponges for your box and I think they work best,but still need to rinsed regulary.
Pre Filter Sponge | eBay


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## jrman83

Have you tested your system for a power loss?


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## hotwingz

I've turned it on and off many times. I only had to re do the siphon once but I had evap in the overflow cause I didn't turn it on for a few days.


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## catfisherpro

I have a heater an filter plugged into a battery backup that can keep the tank running for almost 2 hrs if power goes out was a pricy buy but will be worth it in a power outage


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## hotwingz

Ya it would be nice to have a back up. But I would want one on all my tanks and that would put me out on the street trying to buy them all lol. But with the bubbles moving fast through the siphon tube I'm not sure it can gather bubbles and create an air pocket. I have also let the sump siphon water back into the sump to make sure it wouldn't overflow the sump in case of a power outage. I have about 4-5 inches in the 20 long before it fills up.


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## catfisherpro

When I shut my sump off I gain about 3in. I set this new tank up wit drilled overflows cause I never liked the idea of losing siphon it worth the time to do drilled there's no worrys of making a lake an its easy


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## coralbandit

The safest way to "set" your sump is to shut off pump and let water in tank level along with sump.Then fill the sump to safe level(at least an inch from top),and start pump up again.Let it run for a couple minutes and then place tape on sump right on the water level(while sump is running).That tape mark is "maximum full level".This helps when adding for evaporation and keeps you from ever overfilling sump.

And NY this time of year 2 hours isn't nearly long enough for me or my volume.Sorry to say one of the best investments(once you have really invested in your tanks) is a real generator.Portable or "whole house" will do the job.We've lost power for days and even a week in the last 20 years.All will be dead in a day or two if you're not prepared.


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## hotwingz

Ya I'm originally from MI and this time of year your fish wont last more than a day if your lucky due to temperature. But in FL I hardly need my heaters.

I did mark off my sump and overflow box as a way to monitor if water levels are staying consistent. And then I turned it off and marked it again. So like I said I have several inches from the top when its not running and my pump isn't 100% submerged while running. But enough for the intake to stay under. This would mean my sump is low on water correct?


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## catfisherpro

That could mean ur pumping more than ur overflow can handle.


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## hotwingz

Oh no. I am definitely not over doing the water movement. I have that dialed in. My questions is, should I put more water in the sump.


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## coralbandit

Should be no harm in having the water very close if not even with the last baffle(overflow) in filter.But check with power out to make sure you have room.
I personally hate "over baffles" in sumps as they limit the amount of water that evaps before you have to replace.
Can't see the sense in 20/30/50 gallon sumps that can't evap 5 gallons easy before needing to be topped off.


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## catfisherpro

I do a plexi cover wit couple ventilation holes to keep down evap I only top off maybe 1 or 2 times a week


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## hotwingz

Well I am comfortable enough with everything that tonight will be its first night running. I managed to find a piece of tube with a large enough diameter to not restrict flow but help get enough air into the drain pipe that it no longer sounds like a coffee maker! However the water exiting the drain pipe into the tank is still very loud and will not be acceptable in any room no less the living room. I will not be covering the sump if bandit that's what you are calling a over baffle. I am wondering if I covered just where the inlet is that it might help mask the sound.


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## jrman83

I covered my entire thing back when I had it in an effort to not loose all of the CO2 I was loosing. Once I covered it I couldn't even tell the tank had a wet/dry. The hum from the pump was really all you heard and that was very low. Covering the area where the water comes in may help. I think it will just depend on how yours is setup. I used weather stripping tape and covered with plexiglass held in place with padlock hasps. My overflow box also had a cover.


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## coralbandit

The overflow baffles are in the sump making up your chambers.
A cover on the sump would be no big deal.A partial cover would be best for some fresh air.
When I build sumps I don't install your last baffle(the one the water has to go OVER),as it limits your capacity for evap(and may even expose your pump to air),and there has been plenty of surface agitation and gas exchange befroe it.I do install the one the water goes under and always block it with a coarse sponge(I count them as my bio media).It's just a choice as to how you operate your sump.I like to get as much volume for evap as possible.
I always install 90's on my pump intakes also so they don't draw air from the surface(cavitate?).


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## hotwingz

Ya I guess I could have not used the baffle before the pump. But its on a cichlid tank. I have had nitrate issues. I work a lot and don't get to do a 50% water change every week, sometimes its less. So the chamber before the pump is for plants. Its going to help with nitrates and I'm going to use it as a nursery of sorts. I did do some research last night and my water might just be moving too fast and that's why its loud coming out. If I put a couple 90's its should slow it down enough to help quite? And my pump is actually very quite. The noise is all in the water leaving the Tank and entering the sump. And btw inaugural night went perfectly! Levels are still stable, waters nice and clear, and no water where's its not supposed to be!!!


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## coralbandit

A ball valve inline on return is a better way than 90's.The 90's will slow it down(they say each one = 1 foot of head pressure),but the ballvalve will allow infinite adjustment.
You could still have plants in that section withou over baffle.The sponge is the keeper as everything has to go through it to get to pump.Only downside would be letting to much evap and exposing plant(never a problem for me).
Good deal on first night!


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## hotwingz

Ya I guess I could have just done a sponge to separate. I did feel almost like o had too few baffles. When I was looking at designs to build mine people seemed to have wicked baffles. So I went minimalist. Buy for my first one I feel I did pretty well. Definitely some learning being done though! Now I am about to move and I will likely have to add some corners to have everything set the way I want/need. If I added 45's in the plumbing plus the ball valve will that be ok?


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## coralbandit

The 45's will be better than 90's as they will cause less restriction.The ball valve can be left wide open so it has no effect,butis there if you ever need or just want to slow it down.


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## hotwingz

Ok. I just need this thing to be quitter. But we are going out shopping later I will have to stop and get a ball valve and a couple 45's. Now I also saw people using standpipes. What do you think of those?


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## coralbandit

Not sure what you mean by standpipe?Some of my returns are rigid PVC if that is what you mean.
I just got DC pumps that have 6 variable speeds so the ballvale isn't necessary for me now.I hooked one up so far and it is running full speed(from basement up to living room),but I suspect the second one will need to adjusted.With the variable speed I'll save electricity when I slow the pump as I will actually be slowing the pump not the water flow alone.


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## hotwingz

Well my flow isn't an issue at all. I'm very happy with it actually. But a standpipe as it was being called. People had a T connection so a pipe could be added going vertical with a cap and a whole. This is supposed to help make things quieter. Now I'm not sure how quite I'm really going to get this while the pipes into the sump aren't actually in the water in the sump.


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## coralbandit

Stand pipe for the supply side? DURSO! Yes the help quiet down the overflow,but I never saw one for overflow box.They are standard equipment for the pre drilled overflows(all my mega overflows have one(huge difference).
http://www.aqueonproducts.com/assets/010/13507_400wh.jpg
This may help you be creative with your box
Glass Reef - The Basics - Overflow


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## hotwingz

I think I might have been using wrong terminology. In the 5th picture down I think it was. He uses 90's to route the water under the tank to the sump. That's what I was looking to do to quiet down the water flowing into the sump.


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## coralbandit

They may work there.One of my sumps (acrylic) has 90's for the feed that I swivel to let water "flow" out.It would probly be quieter than the water just falling in.


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## hotwingz

That's what I was thinking. Ya on my return pump to the tank. Its actually very quite. And once I make my spray bar it will be better. Its just getting that overflow all the way to the sump quitter. But tonight I think I will try and put a couple elbows in the drain line and see if that will help. I feel like it should. It will slow the water down a bit and give the sound more time to spread out and not be so loud. Oh and I'm now home from work and everything is still running smooth! Very happy.


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## coralbandit

Maybe even straight pieces that go below the surface of sump will make it quieter.Definately fold up a towel and place it overthe outside of your overflow box(huge difference in noise).


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## hotwingz

Ya I've thought about running the pipe all the way to where the water line is. I have it right above the sponge. Its not the water that seems to be loud though. Its the noise coming out of the pipe. But I guess that would go away if went all the way into the water. And I did put a towel over the outside part of the over flow. It did make a little difference.


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## hotwingz

Ok so he sump is running is perfectly! And its gotten a little quieter now that's settling in a bit. I do have a couple new couple questions. I have been reading up a bit on bio balls. I read their not as great as I thought. Plus I have them submerged which I read does absolutely nothing! Next. I had installed for a short while, on the outside overflow box, the tube that connects to the tube to the sump. I put a 90 on the top. It made it quitter. No "trickle" noise. But it did raise the water level in the in tank and outside boxes. As long as the level stays consistent should o be ok? Or is this not the best fix?


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## coralbandit

The bio balls will eventually become a nitrate factory(like all commercial bio material).I really prefer sponges only as they are easy to rinse(way easier then bio balls or rings).The sponge will hold plenty of bio bacteria and provide extra mechanical filtration(never a bad thing).
The level of the tank is your call.A ball valve on the pump return will allow you to fine tune your flow so it can be as you wish.Only a couple of my sumps don't have them,but I knew the pumps would be able to run all out without problems.


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## jrman83

I used bio-balls when I had mine, and they do need to be out of the water and just below a drip tray of some type. You cannot get wet/dry action (which makes this type of filter THE best) without it. There has to be an exchange with air. Maybe that is where the line is drawn between sumps and wet/drys? Mine was definitely a wet/dry filter but the operation is nearly identical. If sumps don't have a wet/dry action then I would not even consider one. I looked into the idea of sponges but depending on how your design is you can run into an overflow of the sump if sponges are not rinsed regularly. Some setups aren't designed for it. There is much better out there than standard bio balls though and I have seen sponges chuncked into a bunch of squares which removes the threat of overflow.


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## coralbandit

I'm not convinced on the need for bio material to out of the water(for FW or salt).I will say regardless of being salt or FW I always have drawers(as many as possible) that I load with mechanicals.Blue white pads and micron filter sheets for the most part.The sponges are always submerged,but if placed in the beggining of the sump/wetdry,will only raise the water level for one stage,which is never a big issue.I'll add large sumps rule,my smallest is a 29g on my 29g.My 75 has marineland model 2 and [email protected] in series.With proper overflows(the overflow box) and some form of drawers a large amount of oxygen and co2 exchange.This belief is why I discourage the over abundance of "over baffles" in the sump.
They are the best filters,but for me they are my evaporation chambers.The more you can get in your sump(after the last over baffle) the more water that can be evap'd without having to refill.Even my 29g sump can evap 5g before I need to refill.Never having visable hard water stains is greatest least recognised benefits of sump filters.An outrageous space for filtering materials of course is great also.
I've seen the cubed sponges myself,and they are efficient and easy.All my sponges are large block sponges that the water flows through,mostly some can flow over{no big to me}.


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## jrman83

It is the wet/dry action that allows the filter to process ammonia and nitrite exponentially faster than any other type of filter. I think this is more the reason they are recommended for heavily stocked large tanks than any other reason. In order to get that action there has to be an exchange with the air. Otherwise it is just a standard filter in my mind with the same type of identical action. What sets them apart in my mind is the wet/dry portion.


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## hotwingz

I like the idea of making smaller pieces of sponge. I have mine in sheets right now. I think I'll take the bio balls out and do the sponge pieces. I've had super success with only sponges in my filters. I have made several measures to help insure the sump doesn't overflow. Plus until I can get some time to go get a cover cut my sump evaps super fast. So I'm not worried about it overflowing. My only worry at any point of overflow is the overflow box itself. I found some articles on he durso standpipe in the box. That seems to be the way to go to keep it quiet. Plus when I remove the bio balls I will be extending the drainpipe into the water so I won't hear the water running out into the sump.


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## hotwingz

I will say that I agree to extent that a sump isn't much different that other filters without the wet/dry. However it does allow for more water flow and more media. My water in that tank has never been more clear! Its still seeding so I have my canister running still. I might leave it. Can't have too much filtration. But a 20long is plenty big for a 55g tank.


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## catfisherpro

I like sumps because u can take the eye sores out of the dt ( heaters,filters) an put them where no one will see them. But my water has stayed cleaner since I started using them. Next project will be to put one on my turtle an cat tank


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## jrman83

I know how versatile they can be and usually pretty easy to make your own. It was my wrongful assumption to believe that sumps had some type of wet/dry function also, like a wet/dry filter would. I have seen some that look nearly identical. So I guess the main difference would be if your media is completely submerged there is not wet/dry and therefore making it only a sump. A true wet/dry has all of the media, with a few exceptions as there usually is some type of sponge before the water passes into the sump area, out of the water and not submerged. The water coming into the filter is dripped evenly over the media after is passes through a small mechanical filter to catch and debris. The water collects at the bottom and then overflows to the sump where it is pumped out.


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## hotwingz

Ya I figured for my first sump I would go easy and do a simple sump. Plus this is a FW tank with cichlids. The wet/dry system would still be helpful but a whole mess of sponges and a high turn over of water. This will be fine. I just have to make it quitter.


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## hotwingz

Ok so. Aside from the set back today of the outside overflow box actually breaking apart at its seems! Everything has gone well. I have it set aside right now. The glue is drying. Anyways. So have been keeping an eye on the Su.p checking to see if its getting dirty. I'd like to keep a measure of how often to clean it. And to check water levels. Ok well. I have noticed. And I saw this the other day, just have been to busy to get online. Its on the couple plants I have in there and on all of the silicone. It looks almost like mold. It was white spots. Little ones. When I looked today they were more of a yellowish color. What could that be? The sump has been on for a week now. And constantly running. It had its breaks while I was adjusting and trying new techniques. So it has had small periods of stagnant water. But I did a 50% WC a couple days ago.


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## seove

hotwingz said:


> Ok so I have my sump made and I have had it running. I sat and watched it for 15-20 or so. It seemed to work properly. My only concerns are. Its loud! And I don't like how close to the top of the tank it gets. I have an over flow box. Its not drilled. I think I should be able to just make the slots that allow water into the box deeper. The other issue is that the drain is loud. The drain tube is much bigger than it needs. But when I had the smaller tube it wasn't enough. I have pictures ill see if I can get them up.


Is the noise coming from your overflow box or from the sump outlet. I have a DIY sump and it's really quiet. I have a few suggestions for fixes.


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## seove

hotwingz said:


> Ok. I just need this thing to be quitter. But we are going out shopping later I will have to stop and get a ball valve and a couple 45's. Now I also saw people using standpipes. What do you think of those?


I made a Stockman standpipe for my overflow and I've been happy with it. I used an airline tubing valve to regulate the air flow down the pipe.


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## seove

hotwingz said:


> I like the idea of making smaller pieces of sponge. I have mine in sheets right now. I think I'll take the bio balls out and do the sponge pieces. I've had super success with only sponges in my filters. I have made several measures to help insure the sump doesn't overflow. Plus until I can get some time to go get a cover cut my sump evaps super fast. So I'm not worried about it overflowing. My only worry at any point of overflow is the overflow box itself. I found some articles on he durso standpipe in the box. That seems to be the way to go to keep it quiet. Plus when I remove the bio balls I will be extending the drainpipe into the water so I won't hear the water running out into the sump.


I use pot scrubbers.


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## hotwingz

Thanks for the suggestions seove! But that sump is about a year old now and I've got it all tuned in  I did end up with a standpipe but at the outlet of the drain tube. And then I used an elbow in the overflow drain box. Works nicely.


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## seove

hotwingz said:


> Thanks for the suggestions seove! But that sump is about a year old now and I've got it all tuned in  I did end up with a standpipe but at the outlet of the drain tube. And then I used an elbow in the overflow drain box. Works nicely.


I'm glad it worked out.


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