# DIY Filter for low $



## R.Shakelford (Jul 17, 2015)

If you people are tired of struggling with aquarium problems here is a filtration system I put together that is very low maintenance.
http://www.fusiontunes.net/Fish/filter.JPG
Each drawer has tiny holes drilled in the bottom to allow water to trickle through. Each drawer is filled with lava rock (lava rock is very porous and cheaper than bio balls etc). This also allows for the water to become super oxygenated which is great for the fish.
The water eventually collects in the tote where it is pumped back into the tank.

For the people unfamiliar with the nitrogen cycle this is the way it works;

Waste turns to ammonia. Ammonia floats and collects at the surface of the water. A skimmer/siphon box skims off the water from the surface of the tank and deposits it into the filter system where it can be treated.

In the first stage of the filter exist an environment for a bacteria called Nitrosomonas. Nitrosomonas is air breathing and lives in a wet NON submerged environment. (water trickling through the lava rock)
This is where most filters fail. How many filters have an adequate wet but not submerged environment?
Nitrosomonas is critical to turn ammonia into nitrites.

In the second stage is a submerged environment for a bacteria called Nitrobacter. (the bottom drawer stays submerged) Nitrobacter lives under water and turns nitrites into nitrates. Most people have no problems cultivating Nitrobacter as it can live in most filter systems and even in the substrate in our tanks.

This filter system is a nitrate factory which means its doing its job.
Now what do we do with all those nitrates? Simple. Plants love nitrates. Some more than others. You can do research to find which plants are the biggest nitrate eaters. Plants produce oxygen for the fish and the cycle is complete. You have turned poisonous ammonia into healthy oxygen.

Adding water to offset evaporation, fish waste and uneaten food particles provide all the fertilizer/minerals you need for the plants.
This works well and the only maintenance is constant trimming of the plants *y2 and adding water every few days.

The end result is a natural, low maintenance, healthy tank with no chemicals, water changes. It works!
http://www.fusiontunes.net/Fish/t1.JPG


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## The Gremlin (Jul 11, 2015)

Very informative, Thanks for sharing. *pc


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## kalyke (Nov 19, 2014)

I never heard about the non-submerged environment part. Can you send a link to the documentation? DYI fishkeepers did a version of this where the drawer unit was stacked on top of the fish tank and rained directly into the fish tank. What are the pros and cons? 

I like this concept and may do it when I get a larger scale tank.


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## BBradbury (Apr 22, 2011)

Hello Shak...

Super idea. Wish I was a little handier and could set this up and try the system for a while. Have larger tanks and to keep the tank water free of dissolved wastes, I emerse the roots of Agloanema plants and remove and replace 60 percent of the tank water weekly. This way, I'm constantly renewing the water and maintaining a steady water chemistry. Guess this system would be similar to yours as far as maintaining optimum water conditions and might be a touch better for us non-handy people.

Interesting reading, though.

B


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## R.Shakelford (Jul 17, 2015)

Yes, Nitrosomonas lives in a wet non submerged environment.
That is the reason trickle filters, trickle.
If you want documentation I just gave it in the first post.
If you want an opinion of someone else who also has degrees in aquatics I am sure you can find it. The nitrogen cycle is fairly elementary in the world of water chemistry and water treatment and is the basis for many water treatment facilities.

As far as stacking the filter on top of the tank, It would work, but you would have a stack of filters on top of your tank. Why would you want to do that? 
You could even hide it in the next room if you wanted or even in a cabinet out of sight.
Stacking the filter on top of your tank would be like carrying the spare tire for your car, on top of the car. The filter doesn’t need to be there. Its not pretty. Put it in the next room or hide it in a cabinet.




kalyke said:


> I never heard about the non-submerged environment part. Can you send a link to the documentation? DYI fishkeepers did a version of this where the drawer unit was stacked on top of the fish tank and rained directly into the fish tank. What are the pros and cons?
> 
> I like this concept and may do it when I get a larger scale tank.


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## R.Shakelford (Jul 17, 2015)

Really, once you get an idea of the basic design the possibilities are endless.

I am sure most all of you can improve on the ideas I had. (At least that is what I am hoping for  )

My very first filter was for a 125 gallon salt water tank. I stacked two 5 gallon buckets and filled them with tiny pieces of cut up PVC pipe.
The bio media you choose to use can be a wide variety of items.
I have known people who have used plastic hair curlers instead of lava rock.
As long as it doesn't degrade in water, poison the fish all you need is a lot of surface area for the bacteria to grow on.

You can also buy wet/dry trickle filters that have everything you need already. 
Personally, I enjoy designing filters from scratch to see what I can come up with.

Once you think about it a bit and see what materials you have access to its easy to put something together. The only notable expense is the skimmer/siphon box $50 and the pump to return the water to the tank $50.



BBradbury said:


> Hello Shak...
> 
> Super idea. Wish I was a little handier and could set this up and try the system for a while. Have larger tanks and to keep the tank water free of dissolved wastes, I emerse the roots of Agloanema plants and remove and replace 60 percent of the tank water weekly. This way, I'm constantly renewing the water and maintaining a steady water chemistry. Guess this system would be similar to yours as far as maintaining optimum water conditions and might be a touch better for us non-handy people.
> 
> ...


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## big b (Jun 28, 2014)

This should be a sticky.


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## kalyke (Nov 19, 2014)

Can I ask how the non-submerged environment would work in a pond for instance? I am still wrapping my head around how a pond has a non-submerged part? These are the same nitrosomonas that are in a pond, right? 

I would also think that with water constantly flooding through the system, the difference between emerged and submerged is slight. An air-breather would drown in either environment.


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## R.Shakelford (Jul 17, 2015)

Good question.
Ponds use the same process as our fish tanks but use a different species of bacteria. In a pond the ammonia oxidising bacteria you will find is called heterotrophic bacteria. heterotrophic bacteria live under water and can do the job, but not near as well as nitrosomonas. 
This is why we try to cultivate nitrosomonas in a damp non submerged environment.
A single Nitrosomonas cell can convert the same amount of ammonia as approximately 1,000,000 heterotrophic bacteria.

In a filter such as this you do not want water "flooding" through the filter. You want it dripping through the filter. This is why it is called a trickle filter. 





kalyke said:


> Can I ask how the non-submerged environment would work in a pond for instance? I am still wrapping my head around how a pond has a non-submerged part? These are the same nitrosomonas that are in a pond, right?
> 
> I would also think that with water constantly flooding through the system, the difference between emerged and submerged is slight. An air-breather would drown in either environment.


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## kalyke (Nov 19, 2014)

R.Shakelford said:


> Good question.
> Ponds use the same process as our fish tanks but use a different species of bacteria. In a pond the ammonia oxidising bacteria you will find is called heterotrophic bacteria. heterotrophic bacteria live under water and can do the job, but not near as well as nitrosomonas.
> This is why we try to cultivate nitrosomonas in a damp non submerged environment.
> A single Nitrosomonas cell can convert the same amount of ammonia as approximately 1,000,000 heterotrophic bacteria.
> ...


I read that on Wikipedia. I must have that kind.


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## big b (Jun 28, 2014)

You are a very smart man, glad to have you here .


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## R.Shakelford (Jul 17, 2015)

No, not at all. I know a lot about water chemistry and water treatment but I know very little about fish and aquariums.. 
For instance I have a $400.00 electronic pH tester and can tell you right now my water is reading 7.2 pH However I have no idea what pH should be for Neon Tetras. I am hoping to learn more from you guys.




big b said:


> You are a very smart man, glad to have you here .


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## big b (Jun 28, 2014)

Oh please, you are smart. Who else could have same up with a filter like that? You have a bachelor degree in aquatics, so that says something. You eliminated the need for water changes on your tank, something I wish I could do. Also a question, does your tank have any fish in it? P.S. I like your cat, it looks so FLUFFY!!


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## R.Shakelford (Jul 17, 2015)

The tank is new. I have some fish but not near as many as I will have in 2-3 days.
I wanted to establish a good colony of bacteria first.
I have about 8 creek minnows, three catfish, four algae eaters, 20 ramshorn snails, 4 mystery snails, some cray fish, a ghost knife fish... You have to have something in there to produce ammonia or the beneficial bacteria will have nothing to eat.
When I first set up the tank I actually urinated in it to get it going.





big b said:


> Oh please, you are smart. Who else could have same up with a filter like that? You have a bachelor degree in aquatics, so that says something. You eliminated the need for water changes on your tank, something I wish I could do. Also a question, does your tank have any fish in it? P.S. I like your cat, it looks so FLUFFY!!


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## big b (Jun 28, 2014)

That is quite the stock. What kind of algae eaters, catfish,and crayfish? There are 2 main types of algae eaters. Siamese algae eater and chinese algae eater. The siamese grow to about 6 inch and are peaceful, while the chinese grow to about 12 inch and are aggressive and are likely to kill your other fish once they get big and mean enough. The catfish I am not "that" worried about cuz it is unlikely you could have picked one of the big and aggressive ones. The crayfish come in 2 types, the dwarf and the normal. The normal grow to I don't really know but I wanna say about 6 inch? But the dwarf stay about 1-3 inch. The normal will try to escape your tank but the dwarf won't.


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## R.Shakelford (Jul 17, 2015)

The algae eaters are golden chinese. 
(store bought) Very small right now.
One cat fish is a Madtom catfish which is Missouri's smallest species of catfish. about an inch and a half. The other two catfish are about a half inch and I dont know what they are. The catfish and crayfish I caught in my local creek. I also collected all the driftwood, plants, rocks and substrate from
the creek as well.
The tank is 150 gallon so I am far from filling it.
When the crayfish are big enough to be a threat to the fish I will crush them with a broom handle and make fish food out of them.

I know, I have unorthodox methods of running a tank.




big b said:


> That is quite the stock. What kind of algae eaters, catfish,and crayfish? There are 2 main types of algae eaters. Siamese algae eater and chinese algae eater. The siamese grow to about 6 inch and are peaceful, while the chinese grow to about 12 inch and are aggressive and are likely to kill your other fish once they get big and mean enough. The catfish I am not "that" worried about cuz it is unlikely you could have picked one of the big and aggressive ones. The crayfish come in 2 types, the dwarf and the normal. The normal grow to I don't really know but I wanna say about 6 inch? But the dwarf stay about 1-3 inch. The normal will try to escape your tank but the dwarf won't.


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## big b (Jun 28, 2014)

Meh I wouldn't call your methods unorthodox, just unique to you. Everybody has their own style of running their fish tank. But just promise me one thing, when the crayfish are big enough to pose a threat make it fast and painless for them.


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## brads (Mar 23, 2013)

Thanks for your post. Very simple and most interesting. I have a few questions if you would. (If this is too much to explain, please say so. )

Lava rock. Is any suitable? Red rock v/s any other?

I'm assuming that both the Nitrosomonas and the Nitrobacter are naturally occurring and you don't need to introduce a culture to start them. Is that right?

Do the Nitrosomonas and the Nitrobacter need light? v/s being covered up.

The Nitrobacter in stage two, would that be the similar\the same as Diatomes? If so, then Nitrobacter & Nitrosomonas are related?

Again, thank you for your post. I've had this in the back of my mind for years but have never found anyone who new about it. Been thinking about building a new stand and maybe I could incorporate this filter into my design. Kind of underneath the tank.


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## R.Shakelford (Jul 17, 2015)

I guess I shouldn’t tell you that I love crayfish and have eaten many pounds of them over the years.



big b said:


> Meh I wouldn't call your methods unorthodox, just unique to you. Everybody has their own style of running their fish tank. But just promise me one thing, when the crayfish are big enough to pose a threat make it fast and painless for them.


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## R.Shakelford (Jul 17, 2015)

It's never a problem to help if I can.
I bought my (red) lava rock at the local hardware store. It is intended for landscaping. I would suggest washing it with a hose because it does have a bit of sand in the bag. You wouldn’t want lava sand (pumice) cycling through your pump as it is very abrasive.

Nitrobacter is present in most all aquariums in the substrate. You would get it started as you would any aquarium. I get mine started with little effort as I introduce rocks, substrate, plants and driftwood directly from the creek unwashed.
Nitrosomonas also exist naturally. All you need to do is provide an environment for it to grow in.
Both Nitrobacter and Nitrosomonas prefer the darkness. A lot of the ready made store bought trickle filters use a dark colored plexiglass to construct the filter.

Diatoms are an algae. One of the more common types of phytoplankton.
Nitrobacter and Nitrosomonas are a bacteria. In that regard they are related. Also the fact that both play an important roll in the oxidation of ammonia to nitrates.

If you plan ahead before you build your stand you could certainly make a place for it under the tank hidden away.
I wish I could have done that but my 150 is so heavy with water (1650 pounds) I ended up using 48 cinder blocks as a stand. I built a frame around the blocks with 2x2's and then added panelling and trimmed it out. There was no room to hide anything under there.











brads said:


> Thanks for your post. Very simple and most interesting. I have a few questions if you would. (If this is too much to explain, please say so. )
> 
> Lava rock. Is any suitable? Red rock v/s any other?
> 
> ...


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## brads (Mar 23, 2013)

Totally awesome and super easy too. Doesn't get any better than that. Have to put it in my plan for a new stand. *thumbsup thanx
Gonna need a ton of plants. Have to start looking for cheap ones...


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## brads (Mar 23, 2013)

Thought of a question about water turnover. Hope you don't mind. Just wondering how big a pump to use in the filter. Am I going to need a certain amount water flow or does it matter? Come to think of it, if it's underneath the tank I could make it a siphon filter, then pump it back. Still, any min/max flow levels?


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## R.Shakelford (Jul 17, 2015)

The way this filter is designed relies on the fact that ammonia is lighter than water and floats to the top.
It is important that you use a surface skimmer (skimmer/siphon box) to skim off the top 1/4 inch or so of water.
Like this one.









This is not a high volume filter. You need the water to trickle through the filter (bio media) rather than gush through. A smaller pump will suit your needs. I have a simple ball valve installed on the return pipe to control the water flow.
Your exact pump size would vary according to how big your trickle filter is.
The bigger your filter the more water you can process per hour without gushing water through it.

When you get ready to put this together contact me and I will help you every step of the way. There are a few tricks I can show you to refine the process and avoid unnecessary work.
If you have any more questions please ask. I am here to help.



brads said:


> Thought of a question about water turnover. Hope you don't mind. Just wondering how big a pump to use in the filter. Am I going to need a certain amount water flow or does it matter? Come to think of it, if it's underneath the tank I could make it a siphon filter, then pump it back. Still, any min/max flow levels?


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