# Tap water problem



## robo-snickers (Jun 12, 2012)

So, long story short after seeing a fish (Guppy) acting very lethargic in my tank, I did a water test finding everything stable except the ammonia, it was at a whooping 1.0 - 2.0 ppm (Hard to tell by the color of the liquid test. I was shocked because I just did a water change a day ago. Did a water change, retested the water, same results, high ammonia, re-changed it and yet again same results (50% Water change.) so I then tested the water and found out my tap water has the same amount of ammonia as my tank. So I went to the store, picked up some water conditioner to help with the ammonia (Needed a new bottle anyways.) I picked up Kordon’s AmQuel Plus Ammonia Detoxifier Conditioner. It says on the bottle it detoxifies Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia, Chlorine and Chloramines. I used the correct amount, went to sleep and retested the water in the morning, finding no more Ammonia, but about 1.0 ppm of nitrite. I have a few questions about what just happened and im hoping for you help.

Kordon’s AmQuel Plus Ammonia Detoxifier Conditioner, has anyone used this product before? I tested this product out, with a cup of water from my tank (with the high nitrites) and dumped a capful of the solution into it, waited a few hours and tested it, finding out it still had the same amount of Nitrites as before. Now I think this conditioner isn’t working. Only thing I can think of is when it says “Detoxify” does that mean it should bring the Nitrites to 0 ppm, or does it mean that it makes it harmless to the fish but the chemical is still present in the water?

With the ammonia in the tap water, how do I deal with this problem, I moved to this current apartment about a month ago, and suspected the water having more chlorine then my other place but not ammonia. If I cant get a condition to work how could I remover the ammonia before doing a water change? I don’t want to have a mini cycle every time I change the water, it kinda ruins the point.

Lastly my biological colony I suspect could be stronger and would help. I currently have a 29 gallon tank with a Marineland Penguin Biowheel 200. I assumed the biowheel and the 2 blue cartridges would supply enough bacteria, however now im not to sure. Should I buy another filter to go along with my current one, if so what kind? Or should I upgrade my current filter to the 350 which basically adds 2 more cartridges and another bio wheel. I open for suggestions, however money is tight. Also could I add anything to my current filter? I saw at Petsmart the have this grey charcoal looking stuff that’s suppose to remover the ammonia out of the water? Do you guys think this would help?

Current stock: 29G

4 guppies (One lethargic)
4 pygmy corys
2 otos
6 neons
1 bolivian ram
4 shrimp
3 assassin snails
Planted

Been running for about 6 months with no problems so far. Only visible sign of stress is that one guppy.


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## clep.berry (Mar 4, 2012)

This is an easy one - somehow your cycle's restarted - or there's a higher ammonia production rate. The final thing that it could be is too much of an aggressive water change strategy for your tapwater conditions.
Even with ammonia in your tapwater, the bacteria should break it down quite easily.
Something to consider is that maybe your filter had an ammonia removing media in it which no longer has any ability to remove ammonia. 
What I'd do is daily 10% changes until nitrites no longer register. You'll be adding 0.01 - 0.02 ammonia in terms of the entire volume of the tank which will be quickly converted to nitrite - and diluting the nitrite so it doesn't peak as high.
When your tank is fully cycled and very mature you won't have the same problems as the ammonia will be quickly converted over. This may last 2-3 weeks
This kind of cycle usually happens when you over-clean your filters, gravel and hard surfaces. 
Luckily, the problem should sort itself out over time but you may lose the guppy.
Another thing that will help in this situation is dimming the lights and adding an airstone. This will improve conditions for the fish and the aerobic bacteria but won't sort out the nitrite spike that you should be expecting.
cb


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## robo-snickers (Jun 12, 2012)

clep.berry said:


> This is an easy one - somehow your cycle's restarted - or there's a higher ammonia production rate. The final thing that it could be is too much of an aggressive water change strategy for your tapwater conditions.
> Even with ammonia in your tapwater, the bacteria should break it down quite easily.
> Something to consider is that maybe your filter had an ammonia removing media in it which no longer has any ability to remove ammonia.
> What I'd do is daily 10% changes until nitrites no longer register. You'll be adding 0.01 - 0.02 ammonia in terms of the entire volume of the tank which will be quickly converted to nitrite - and diluting the nitrite so it doesn't peak as high.
> ...


This actually makes sense. its pretty sad, because what i assumed cause the original spike was my filter having a large back up or fish waste (Had alot of excess crude on the walls and the turbine thing) so i cleaned the entire thing (not the filter pads), i beleive i also did heavy valcumming of the sand that water chane as well. as of right now i normally do 50% change per week, after everything goes back to normal how much of a water change should i conduct weekly would you say? i also need to re add my airstone since i stopped using it a few days ago since for whatever reason the hose is taking in water. Also again, do you think i should add more types of bio filter to my tank? if so what kind?


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## clep.berry (Mar 4, 2012)

10-15% water changes 2x a week treated with prime (Dechlor and makes ammonia safe) should be sufficient for you.

I don't know how you cleaned the outside of the filter but often people rinse them under the tap. THIS IS BAD as the chorine in the tap water kills the beneficial bacteria.

IMHO less is more to a point. Ideally, you'll establish a successful routine that works for you. My local LFS swears by more smaller water changes - I believe that this strategy would work for you if you have ammonia in your tapwater.
Right now, you're adding ammonia to get rid of nitrites with every water change -and may not have the bacteria to deal with it. More 10% changes would mean that only 1/5th of the ammonia spike would register with testing.
Also note that it takes a while for the water to mix properly. This may be why your ammonia reading was as high as the tapwater. 
cb


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## robo-snickers (Jun 12, 2012)

clep.berry said:


> 10-15% water changes 2x a week treated with prime (Dechlor and makes ammonia safe) should be sufficient for you.
> 
> I don't know how you cleaned the outside of the filter but often people rinse them under the tap. THIS IS BAD as the chorine in the tap water kills the beneficial bacteria.
> 
> ...


I cleaned the filter box with tap water, and use the tank water to clean the blue cartridges, i assumed the filter box had no bacteria period. I never clean the bio wheel.


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## clep.berry (Mar 4, 2012)

Untreated tap water has no business in an aquarium. The remnants of chlorine could have reset your cycle.
cb


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

The best thing you can do is plant your tank. IMO, it doesn't require anything special beyond that unless the ammonia persists beyond about 36hrs or at least gone down to less than .5. Plants will help keep the ammonia at bay if not processed by the bio-colony.

I wouldn't add any chemicals, you don't need them. And I would watch adding ammonia (water) multiple times per week if the ammonia has already dissipated to 0. Just something to keep your eyes on.


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## Abbeysdad (Mar 12, 2012)

You have a special case with ammonia in your tap water, but you are on the right track. Using a conditioner like Prime or Amquel that detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrate for 24 - 48 hours which should be time enough for your beneficial biology to handle it. HOWEVER, you should consider less volume in your weekly water changes to ensure you don't add to much ammonia from your tap at one time.
Never do more than 15-20% WWC. Make sure you treat the new water outside the tank before adding OR add enough conditioner for the entire tank volume if you use a Python like device for the refill. 

Any reduction in water change frequency/volume needs to be augmented with good tank/filter maintenance AND a modest feeding regime to remove/reduce waste that breaks down resulting in higher ammonia and ultimately nitrates.

Also, as already mentioned, plants, even floating plants will be a huge aid in keeping ammonia levels down.


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