# Large(r) tanks & floor reinforcement?



## ValorieMackison (Dec 10, 2010)

I currently keep 3 tanks (10 & 20 stacked, 55).. After much discussion, my DH & I have agreed that 1 large(r) tank is all our home can handle (1000sq ft. & 4 people).

Our remodeling plan involves removing a NON-load bearing wall between the eat in kitchen & living room. Said wall runs parallel to the joists & sits between 2, atm. This is a 110 year old shotgun home (house is one room wide, rooms are one behind the other). The joists span the width of the house (16 feet), 2"x10", 16"OC. 

We are considering building in the tank where the current wall sits, to serve as a partition of sorts. With a soffit/canopy above to bring down needed electrical supply, etc.

Ideally I'd like 200+ gallons, as this will be the only large tank I invest in. Also, with it it's placement, etc, swapping it out later is pretty much a no-go.

Now, I'd like to know a few things if anyone is able to assist...

With the setup mentioned above, will we need to add ventilation to the soffit/canopy? I'm wondering about evaporation in such a space paired with the outlets that will be housed there. GFCI outlets would be a must, I 
assume.

The joists will run parallel, & this monster will be in the center (at the weakest point).. It will span 2 joists, but 3 is pretty doubtful.. As this is intended to be permanent, should we pour a concrete platform in the ground below the floor to place any needed jacks/braces/etc upon?

Realistically, assuming this can be done safely if at all, what is our best option for reinforcing the floor? I'd much rather the changes be overkill than have it crash through the floor.

Thanks for your time.


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## williemcd (Jun 23, 2011)

Yea.. you're looking at a ton of weight... I tend to overengineer so... keep that in mind.
Me?.. I'd go out and buy 3 floor jacks.. basically 4" pipe with threaded top and bottom plates. This allows ya to snug the jacks. Then split a a 6" X 6", by 3 feet long to engage three floor joists... For footers, I wouldn't think you'd need anything more than prefab'd side walk slabs... about 18" X 24" X 2"... One under each jack. Light traffic concrete garage floors are about 3"...Put a level on the flooring in the living area and see how out-of-wack the floor is before any load is introduced. Trying to induce a level floor from beneath if it's way off level can cause a ton of damage to the walls/windows/doorways. I would be better to accept an unlevel floor and shim the tank stand to bring the tank back to level. 

If your house is plumb and level.. have no fear... Bill in Va.


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## piklmike (Jul 14, 2011)

I am working on a similar project to support 2-55g 2-29g and 2-20g, stacked with the 55's on the top 4ftx6ft, rounded on one end, shelf. I don't like steel poles in the middle of my basement so I built a support wall with 4x4s.


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## ValorieMackison (Dec 10, 2010)

There's no basement here to consider. There's 12" between the floor joists & the ground, atm. We will be excavating some soil in the spring to allow for easier access (along with this project, duct work needs replaced).


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## williemcd (Jun 23, 2011)

Even easier then.. 3 concrete blocks beneath the 4" X 4" beam which spans 3 floor joist. One block at each end of the tank, one in the middle. $16.00 total.


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