# FX5 or XP4 on predrilled tank with rear overflow?



## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Hi,

I am working on setting up a 75 gallon freshwater aquarium.

I didn't want to deal with doing wet/dry filtration with a sump, so I decided instead to hook up a canister filter to the rear overflow. The tank is bottom drilled but the holes are two different sizes: 1.5" (3/4 inch hose/pipe) and 1.75" (1 inch hose/pipe). 

I just talked to a nearby aquarium store that drills tanks and they said it's very risky to drill tempered glass on the bottom of the tank...If I could actually drill it, i would want to enlarge the 1.5" hole to 1.75" so I can do 1 inch hose everywhere. However this seems like a very bad idea. So it seems like I'm going to compromise with a lower flow rate.

The Fluval FX5 basically is designed to work with 1" plumbing, meaning it would be bottlenecked by the 3/4" limitation. If I use the FX5 it seems I'll have to throttle down the flow rate so as not to damage the motor...the pressure will be too high at full blast...

Given this, should I just return the FX5 and get a Rena XP4 instead? 

Help! 

-Zeke


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

On tanks that are drilled, the 1" is the intake and the 3/4" is the return. Thats all normal. Even using a filter on those lines, thats normal to use that for typical over the side of the tank use.


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

So I can still run a FX5 normally with this? Can I just use 1 inch hose from the FX5 with some sort of adapter to the 3/4" return? This won't cause problems? It's just a little counterintuitive that the input and output of the filter wouldn't be identical? The FX5 by default comes with 1" hose for intake and return.

-Zeke


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

It'll be ok. Use 1" for the intake. Its normal for guys using sump pumps to slow the returns down, but not the intakes, that messes up the motor when done that way.
As long as there is no restricition on the water going to the pump, your fine.


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Ok, great, I will keep you posted.

-Zeke


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## giddetm (Apr 30, 2011)

I am interested to see how this works. I have an FX-5 on my 150 the foam insert cut the flow alot.


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Yeah I will keep you posted. Still waiting to get the FX5 and the necessary plumbing parts.

-Zeke


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Sorry to disappoint you guys but I just found a sump I had lying around that came with the tank....so am considering going the sump route even though I have never used a sump before...it looks very useful.

See pics in the gallery below at the following URL:

Postimage.org / gallery - IMG 20121126 221321, IMG 20121126 221339, IMG 20121126 221329

I looked in the shed and found the sump equipment that I inherited with this tank and now am seriously considering switching to this sump and returning the FX5 (and possibly the media I ordered with it) and saving myself $250.

Here's the setup in the pictures from the link:

top layer: plastic sheet with small holes. For mechanical filtration obviously. On underside it is a waffle pattern. Or do I have it upside-down? 

middle layer: Some sort of wrapped up cloth thing that seems to have a lot of surface area...i tried wringing dirt out of it for like 20 minutes and it still was dirty Is this for biological filtration and mechanical filtration or both?

bottom layer: volcanic rock. Is this likely to raise my pH? This might be problematic as the CA/SA fish I'm considering prefer acidic pH of about 6-7. On the other hand, driftwood should lower my pH, right? It might be beneficial though if volcanic rock helps serve as a buffer. Volcanic rock is used for both biological and mechanical filtration, correct?

With the FX5 I also purchased 2.5 pounds of bio rings....should I return those as well or should I try incorporating them into this setup? 

Where should I locate the pump, at the bottom of the refugium (as pictured?)

This sump is inside a 20 gal aquarium/refugium if I have the terminology correct...

The pump is a 37 liter/min (586 GPH) Eheim 1060 pump. Should be sufficient for my setup, right? Maybe do a homemade PVC spraybar at the top?

What steps can I do to prevent flooding (so my wife doesn't kill me), shutoff valves at bottom of bulkheads, anything else? I should be fine as long as I leave sufficient unfilled volume in the refugium to handle the backflow from the overflow box in the event of pump failure or power outage, right? I also thought about putting some sort of plastic lid/cover over the refugium to minimize humidity + evaporation inside the aquarium cabinet.. What do you think?

Thanks,
-Zeke


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Nice ; old school.
The second level in "tower" is called DLS ; double layer spiral,it was the original media of the first "wet dry filters" and I remember it well.It may become (as you've found) filled with debris.Removal of the fabric portion will leave you with the spiral(matrix) part and is ok.The black spiral material I have found to be available as a "cedar roofing" product called "cedar breather".You can use the fabric(cut to fit) in the top drip area as "pre filter" material.
As for the other material in bottom if its not acceptable for your tank parameters then remove it.
The pump also is old school and should do a wonderful job.(It was one of the better pumps originally as it was claimed "cool running" as to not throw heat into tank water(many of the old school pumps generated alot of heat.
To run safely(without overflowing on floor) ; fill tank until it overflows into skimmer cup.Then fill sump about 3/4 full(not full) .turn on pump let water cycle(flow) for a minute or more to see system in running condition.Once running(flowing )steady mark the water level on sump wall(with tape, or marker) at water surface level.That will be the max fill line while tank is running(and prevent you from overfilling sump( due to evap).It's pretty much that simple to run safely.
I wouldn't cover filter(especially if you'll have cover on tank) as this is where oxygen and other gaseous exchanges will take place.
Finally I use no bio media in my sumps(some may be nacessary to cycle tank though).I prefer an abundance of mechanical filter pads that are easily cleaned whenever I want.
OH and return line needs to be touch air(not completely under water) or will syphon to its level upon power failure(most surely overflowing sump and ending up on floor{remember your wife}).A "check/ball "valve will help with this but I wouldn't trust enough to immerse return line.ENJOY,good find! 
Tom


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

I also found two large cylindrical sponges on a porous pipe like thing. is that a sponge filter, and how would I incorporate it into my setup?

-Zeke


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