# Aeration or Not



## guppypuppy (Dec 20, 2010)

I have a new 20g start-up tank all complete except for the fish. I am researching a lot to determine what and how many fish I can safely accommodate and still enjoy a community tank. 

In my research there seems to be some conflicting opinions on aeration. From what I have read, if you have a good enough external filter (that keeps the surface water moving) and you are diligent in your maintenance, and have not overstocked your tank, there is no need for an air pump. 

Would like some "expert" advice on whether or not aeration is really needed in my sitution.

Thank you, in advance, for your input.

*c/p*



My setup: Aquarium Gallery - 20g start-up


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## majerah1 (Oct 29, 2010)

Agreed.There is no need for an air pump if you have filtration.Most people use air pumps and an air stone for hospital tanks since medications will kill the beneficial bacteria on filter media,and most medications call for extra aeration due to the meds stealing oxygen in the water.


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## guppypuppy (Dec 20, 2010)

I am learning that newbies are susceptible to marketing ploys, over eager sales personnel, and just downright ignorance. In an effort to do "things right", we think we need all the gadgets. 

It's great to have a place like this forum to learn from the more knowledgeable and experienced.





majerah1 said:


> Agreed.There is no need for an air pump if you have filtration.Most people use air pumps and an air stone for hospital tanks since medications will kill the beneficial bacteria on filter media,and most medications call for extra aeration due to the meds stealing oxygen in the water.


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## Santaaa (Dec 20, 2010)

Depends on the stocking level and it depends what you keep also. I recommend air because it helps to get rid of some of the ammonia. What I recommend is an undergravel filter powered by air pumps. It will add extra air and filter your tank. Many people feel that undergravel filters are not good. Only if you plant live plants would I say avoid undergravel filters. A HOB filter with regular maintance should be fine. If you want you can get air powered ornaments that will add air and won't just be an ugly air stone. Do I think it is necessary no. For instance a filter rated for 20 gallons should be able to handle 20 inches of fish. From what I have learned through research the inch per gallon rule is mostly bogus but it does keep you well understocked and allows you to succeed so even though it is not true it will help prevent problems so follow it as a new person. Cycling is really important and you should cycle your tank. There are a few different ways to do this. Pick up a master test kit that tests ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, and PH. I recommend a KH and GH test to be purchased also to make sure the KH is good the higher the KH the more stable the PH will be. If it is a low KH you have to adjust it but we can get to that if the time comes. If your KH checks out ok then don't worry about it as it won't matter to you. Back to cycling. The cycle called the Nitrogen cycle converts ammonia(fish poo, uneaten food, etc.) into another product that is less toxic called Nitrite, then you want Nitrite to be converted into Nitrate. Bacteria will do this for you. You have to grow the bacteria or purchase them. First lets talk about the easy way out purchasing a culture. There is only one product I know will actually do what it says it will do. Tetra's Safestart is the best and will instantly cycle your tank just like they claim. I set up many new tanks with their product. It works great and if you can find it, Petsmart started carrying it a few months ago, then you don't have to worry about anything but regular maintance and checking the water parameters once a week until you feel comfortable to go to once a month. Just pour it in and add fish. The second method is called a fishless cycle and costs very little but it takes time. Get an ammonia source, fish food or pure ammonia, I don't recommend it but I have heard of some people actually peeing in their fish tanks for an ammonia source but it is gross in my opinion but does work, I prefer pure ammonia as the fish food will cause algae growth. Ok so now set up your tank and condition it with water conditioners and such then add a little bit of ammonia. Do NOT add fish yet. The ammonia will kill them. So just wait and test your water once a week until the cycle is complete which is when ammonia is 0 and nitrite is 0 on your test kit and you get a Nitrate reading and then you can add a few fish not alot just a couple at a time giving it about 2 weeks in between adding the fish. Cycling with fish is a bad idea and should not be done as well it is not necessary anymore. It was when you added fish and did one of two things let the fish suffer and die until it was cycled and you add new fish to replace the cheap starter fish or you do water changes about 50% per day until the tank is cycled. It is a pain and bad idea. Either go fishless cycle or use Tetra's Safestart. Anymore questions feel free to ask. Check out articles at petfish.com the articles will help you choose the fish that best suit you. I recommend Zebra Danios, not the genetically altered glofish, they are hardy and do well. I recommend a mystery snail or two to help eat some of the left over food, keep in mind you still need to put enough food in there for them. I recommend reading the compatability chart at liveaquaria.com but I don't recommend buying fish from them because they sell in bulk. I recommend for plants Java fern and Java moss. Bulb plants from petco that come in a package of dried out bulbs grow great but need a rest period. I just buy new ones myself when they die back. I am just to lazy to spend time drying them back out and they are cheap enough to grow new ones. If you feel like it there are articles you can google that can help you to dry them out and re-grow them. If you use the light that came with your tank most plants will not grow well except the plants I listed and the bulb plants. You may be able to grow a few others too. I also recommend a Marimo Moss ball. It should be sold as Marimo moss ball otherwise it probably is not one. They grow in low light and grow like mad in tank good for algae as it is algae that grows in a ball shape. Roll it as there is no current in your tank to roll it in to its ball shape.


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## guppypuppy (Dec 20, 2010)

Yes, I am doing a fishless cycle and I have seen the Tetra Safestart product. Wasn't sure if this was something I should use with any confidence. Adding straight ammonia sounds scary to me. Since this is holiday week and I'm getting ready to leave town, I will wait until next week to get any fish, as long as my chemistry is still good. However, I may get the Safestart and save some time......

I appreciate the input.



Santaaa said:


> Depends on the stocking level and it depends what you keep also. I recommend air because it helps to get rid of some of the ammonia. . . .


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## mfgann (Oct 21, 2010)

guppypuppy said:


> Yes, I am doing a fishless cycle and I have seen the Tetra Safestart product. Wasn't sure if this was something I should use with any confidence. Adding straight ammonia sounds scary to me. Since this is holiday week and I'm getting ready to leave town, I will wait until next week to get any fish, as long as my chemistry is still good. However, I may get the Safestart and save some time......
> 
> I appreciate the input.


The safestart product, and several others like it, have mixed reviews. Some people love them, some say they don't work. I think it depends on whether the bottle is 'fresh' and the bacteria in it is still alive. If nothing else I don't think it hurts anything, it just may be a waste of money, and is certainly not going to do anything that nature won't do on its own if you're patient. If you DO use something like this, remember to have some ammonia source present, or the bacteria in the bottle will die off. It doesn't work if there isn't anything for them to consume.

Yes, adding ammonia sounds scary, but it is the main thing the fish produce to drive this cycle. You just have to be sure that it doesn't have additives like perfumes, which is what scares me more. The next most effective way would probably be to put a raw shrimp in a piece of pantyhose and let it rot in the tank. It would require zero effort, and work fine.. but is a little gross and smelly from my understanding. I think saltwater people do this a lot. After that, it is putting a flake in daily.


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## guppypuppy (Dec 20, 2010)

mfgann said:


> The safestart product, and several others like it, have mixed reviews. Some people love them, some say they don't work. I think it depends on whether the bottle is 'fresh' and the bacteria in it is still alive. If nothing else I don't think it hurts anything, it just may be a waste of money, and is certainly not going to do anything that nature won't do on its own if you're patient. If you DO use something like this, remember to have some ammonia source present, or the bacteria in the bottle will die off. It doesn't work if there isn't anything for them to consume.
> 
> Yes, adding ammonia sounds scary, but it is the main thing the fish produce to drive this cycle. You just have to be sure that it doesn't have additives like perfumes, which is what scares me more. The next most effective way would probably be to put a raw shrimp in a piece of pantyhose and let it rot in the tank. It would require zero effort, and work fine.. but is a little gross and smelly from my understanding. I think saltwater people do this a lot. After that, it is putting a flake in daily.




I suppose I need to start somewhere... so wish me luck!


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## mfgann (Oct 21, 2010)

guppypuppy said:


> I suppose I need to start somewhere... so wish me luck!


Good luck! And ask if you have any questions. We have no end of opinions here.


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## Santaaa (Dec 20, 2010)

I have yet to have a problem using Safestart and if you have a fishless cycle you can add it to the tank and it should take care of all the ammonia but like mfgann said you have to feed the bacteria to keep them alive. Good Luck!


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

tanks are torn down due to a move but.

I didn't use either filters or air stones on any of my FW tanks. They maintained heavy bioloads for years. (on the order of 20-30 guppies/platys with 1/2 dozen or so reproducing adults).

IMHO what you do need to do is remove the carbon dioxide and add oxygen. Of those two the carbon dioxide is the most important. I did that by using live plants.


my .02


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