# DIY 65 Gal Aquarium/Display case Combo



## Darkfeather

While I am new to constructing aquariums I have spent a majority of my life keeping fish and for several years worked part time at fish store while I was in the Navy. For the past 10 years or so I have spent most of my "off" time building custom hollow core wooden Surfboards, Paipo, and Stand Up Paddle Boards, so I decided to give a "plywood" tank a shot. 

On this thread I will post pics on the progress and hopefully get some good constructive advice on improvements or recommendations that will help in providing my fish the best environment possible.

Please feel free to share your opinions, advice or recommendations. I did a lot of reading on the forums to help in the development and preconstruction phase and feel that "life experience" can help considerably for others who might want to take on a project like this in the future. 

The first set of pics will pretty much deal with framing and the cabinet, where I will really need assistance and advice will be with the filtration and lighting.


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## Darkfeather

I should have asked about this prior to the build, but live and learn lol... With the lid only 8" high, I was going to use 2 bars of standard LED lighting for general aquarium illumination and a third LED Plant light for the plants. Has anyone found a reliable and reasonably priced LED plant light that they are using with their setup? I was thinking of using: UFO 180W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum Hydroponic Plant Veg Flower Lamp.... in runs right around $95


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## Darkfeather

Starting on the frame:

A majority of the framing was constructed utilizing either a dado or mortise & tenon joint. I wanted to use the strength of the Oak to support the weight of the structure instead of relying on glue and fasteners alone.


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## majerah1

Very nice! Also dont worry about picspam, we really enjoy it. Will be sure to watch the progress on this one.


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## Darkfeather

With the basic framing complete I attached 3/4" Oak plywood for the back, bottom, and left side panel for the aquarium. The oak plywood was reinforced with oak braces (2 on the back, 3 on the bottom) as well as using Titebond III and 2" woodscrews.



I used the remaining oak plywood to enclose a lower display case that will house a piece of "surf art" that I created a while back.


Fitting the "Dual action" lid.... this is a double lid that opens for tank maintenace, but has a smaller access door for feeding


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## Darkfeather

Attached the "feeding access" to the main lid and then attached the main to the frame:



Here you can see the underside of the main lid with the access flap propped open. I am planning on mounting an LED plant light to the main lid behind the hinge point for the access flap and then 2 standard LED strips on either side of the access flap



Main lid closed with access flap propped open


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## Darkfeather

Made the door to the storage compartment that will house the biological filtration system, light controls and junction boxes of all of the electrical circuits:



The door is solid oak made from 5 pieces, it was a beast to get the center bevel correct, but in the end I am pleased with how it turned out


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## Darkfeather

Next I created a "roll up" door that will protect the art work that will sit in the dispay case underneath of the tank:


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## vreugy

Fantastic. Looking good. Your carpentry is very very good.


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## Darkfeather

This past weekend I decided that I wanted to add a nice decorative trim around the top of the piece. I love the look of Dental Molding, but the only oak dental I could find ran around $175 - $225 for a 10 ft piece. I decided that I would make my own and only cost $35 for the wood and a few hours of my time:





I used 2" PVC to create "mini" clamps to apply pressure to the individual blocks as the glue dried


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## Darkfeather

The past few days I have been attaching the molding to the lid and then the rest of the upper portion of the cabinet.


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## Darkfeather

And this is where we stand as of last night:











Making sure "The Minnow" fits lol .... this is a 1/2 scale model of a classic "fish" surfboard that is mounted on a piece of driftwood that I picked up in Kilmarnock, VA


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## Darkfeather

I have been kicking around the ideas on how I am going to waterproof the plywood for the aquarium. I have spent HOURS reading through the forums on how others have approached the problem and from everything I have read there are dozens of ways to accoplish it. Some have used "liquid rubber", drylock, epoxy paint, garage floor epoxy, or a combination of these..... I have come to the conclusion that the safest way to go would be to spend a few extra bucks and go with a 2 part 100% solids epoxy coating. I will fiberglass the seams for added strength and then coat the flat surfaces with just the resin and then topcoat with an epoxy paint for color. I finally ordered a 1/2 gallon 635 epoxy kit from US Composites this morning. For the epoxy kit, pumps, and shipping it came up $63.00 which was a heck of a lot cheaper than I thought it would be. Usually the epoxy that I use for my surfboards runs around $79 just for the resin (not including hardener, pumps and shipping) but it is a crystal clear finish where this stuff with have a slight amber hue to it. I will make sure I post some pics of the fiberglassing process when the stuff comes in.


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## vreugy

I love looking at the "process" of building this. I only wish I was capable of something so grand. It's a shame. I have a wood shop full of tools that is covered in sawdust and cobwebs. Oh well, maybe one of these days.


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## coralbandit

Very Nice Build!appreciate all the pics and explanation.
Really can't wait to see the aquarium part when completed.
Do/did you build for a living or just as a hobby.I am envious of anyone with a clean shop!Even my dust collector is covered with dust!
Thanks for sharing and WELCOME!


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## Darkfeather

Thanks vreugy, I have been working with wood for a few years, but that has mainly been cedar & aspen surfboards and Stand Up Paddle Boards. I am a Computer Programmer in the Army by profession and the only “real” woodworking training that I have was 9th & 10th grade shop class 31 years ago. The reason I am building this is because I lucked into the free Oak which would be entirely too dense and heavy for a surfboard and my ex-wife got both of my 55’s in the divorce a few years ago. I have no plans, blueprints, or reference materials other than YouTube videos of “plywood aquarium” builds which pretty much deal with just the aquarium aspect of the setup. I guess my point….. Give it a shot, what is the worst thing that could happen? I look at it this way, if this doesn’t work out like I hope it will, then I have learned how NOT to do it next time 


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## Darkfeather

LOL thanks Coral… that is my DIY Workshop, PVC & tarp roof, cypress mulch floor, 2x4 & exterior grade paneled walls. Hot as Hades in the summer and downright frigid in the winter, but it keeps the rain off my head and the sun off my shoulders!!!!


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## coralbandit

I meant to mention I dig the use of pvc pipe for clamps to make your own dentil(which turned out very nice)!One can never(I really mean never) have enough clamps.
On your choice of lights I wouldn't get the one you mentioned.It will not "spread" light evenly through the tank like a light long enough to fit your tank.
a 65 is usaully 3' so here is a link to a current led in the same price range;
http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-S...06238155&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+plant+light
I would go with the 36-48 as the next size down is 24 -36 which is a 23" light with extendable legs.several members use these lights and they are pretty popular.


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## Darkfeather

Thank you very much for the suggestion and Link Coral, I think that light setup will work PERFECTLY.


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## Darkfeather

The epoxy resin finally came in from US Composites and I got to work waterproofing the Aquarium portion of the piece. I ordered the 1/2 gal 365 Thin epoxy kit and pumps which ran me right around $65. I had a couple of yards of 4oz cloth that was left over from several surfboard builds that I did this summer and intended on glassing just the seams, but the more I though about it, the more I liked the idea of glassing the entire interior of the tank. The cloth runs around $3.85 a yard and the pieces that I had were too small to use on another board, so I figured what the heck and glassed it all.

I started with the interior of the hood, this is strictly resin with no glass




Started with the front inside corner and moved around the interior. The top seam was then glassed and finally the bottom seam





Taped off the exterior lip of the front panel to try to minimize the amount of resin that I knew I would manage to drip on the exterior


Once all of the seams were glassed I left the resin cure for approx. 5 hours before I got to work on the back, left, and bottom panels


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## Darkfeather

Once the seams were mostly cure and no longer tacky unless pressed on, I positioned the cloth on the panels and gently smoothed them out. I have to admit that fiber glassing a surfboard that is laying horizontally on a shaping table is completely different than trying to glass a vertical panel. Patience is key to getting the cloth to lay smooth and without wrinkles/air pockets. 



I use an exacto knife to try to remove as many stray strands as possible... NEVER pull the strands or you set yourself up for disaster. As you start to spread the resin you will get a few strands that start to separate, if you pull them you will end up pulling the cloth out of position or unraveling more cloth than you expected.




I use a putty knife to keep the edge of the cloth in place as I spread the resin, it is always a good idea to start in the middle and work your way to the outer edges



When the panels were all glassed I again let everything cure for approx. 4 - 5 hour before I came back and added a final topcoat to ensure all of the holes in the cloth were filled and smooth.... There is absolutely NO way any of the wood seams will ever leak, hopefully installing the glass panel will go as smoothly


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## majerah1

Wow, coming along nicely! 

I am one of the users of the light Tom mentioned. I love it! I have one over my 40 breeder and then one at my dads bar, over a 110.


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## TroyVSC

Wow this is looking incredible. Great skill and thanks for sharing.


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## coralbandit

VERY NICE!
I like the choice of coating the wood with clear epoxy instead of the "blue rubber" most use.I think when finished this will look outstanding!
The whole wood finish under water seems uncommon but I think will look very natural.
I don't think filters have been discussed yet?
http://www.aquariumforum.com/f45/monster-catfish-tank-65545.html?highlight=monster+catfish
This is another example(a great build) of custom built tank and filter.
What filter are you thinking about?I don't see alot of room(none!) in the stand!I run a decent sized sump(wet/dry) in my basement for my 180g.All you need to do is drill a hole your floor!


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## woody019

All I have to say is WOW! Great craftsmanship! Cant wait to see the end product!

As for LED lighting Im a fan of the DIY fixtures from RapidLED. I personally like and use two of their fixtures on my reef tank. Just throwing an idea out there for you to consider. 

Anyways keep us posted on your awesome build!


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## Darkfeather

Coralbandit, now that I have the epoxy down I will wait a week or so and then get started on the filtration system. I am planning on running dual filtration:

1st An under gravel system with a bottom drain hooked up to a Fluval 460 for mechanical filtration

2nd A small sump system for biological.

You are very correct in saying there is not a lot of room in the cabinet for a sump, the cabinet is 30"h x 20"w x 20"d so the only readily available size tank that will fit would be a 10 gallon. What I am toying around with is designing a "Bio-tower" that will stand approx. 24" high and only take up 5"-6" of the 10 gallon tank. I have a bunch of 3/8" acrylic sheets that should be large enough to construct the tower and dividers, so I might start toying around with it next week. I'll put some pics up as it starts to come together and would love some feedback on how I can improve it.

Basic layout of the "Bio-tower"



(now that I think about it, I will probably switch the bio balls and lava rock)


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## coralbandit

Looks like a good plan.
My only suggestion is if the filter media is a mechanical type product(pads...) then try to make that section a drawer to pull open over the rest ofthe sump so you don't have to shut off filter or remove top to get to it.
I don't think there is a big difference between bio balls,ceramic rings as far as bio media go?
If you are going to use the lava rock definately put it on the bottom (in the water) so it satnds a chance of functioning in an anerobic capacity.


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## woody019

Ceramic rings have more surface area then bio balls. In the end though both work equally as good. I run ceramic rings my oscar tank and bio balls on my Cichlid tank both in canisters, I don't really see any difference. I will say that I find that the ceramic rings will "gunk" up faster and restrict flow. 

I would put 3 baffles after your tower though, to help catch bubbles. Keep the two before the return pump and put a some filter foam in between them. I jumped the gun when I am running your exact sketch up baffle system. Long story short I'm having issues with annoying micro bubbles in the DT. So save yourself the hassle I'm going to have soon with tearing down the tank to put a sump with more baffles in the stand.

I think you could get away with doing a 15 or 16 gallon tall tank for your sump though. It would be a very tight fit but could make it work. Here is the site I was looking at for tank densions...Standard Aquarium Dimensions Chart and Dimensions to Gallons Calculator


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## coralbandit

^^ All good info^^, but micro bubbles shouldn't/won't be as much a problem in FW as they are in marine(the whole reason protien skimmers are basically useless in FW).I would still find a place for a sponge to stop bubbles or anything that has made it that far.I'm the sponge guy because I don't use anything else for bio media in any of my filters.They either make nitrates or they don't.How quickly media cloggs,and how easy it rinses clean are as important as anything else in the bio media game IMO.All bio media needs to be rinsed at some point.Sponges are breeze(easier then the water changes).All my tanks/sumps are mechanical(cut to fit pads/sponge) and bio(sponge), and nothing else!
I do like the lava rock if it doesn't mess up water parameters for intended fish.It does have the possibility of becoming anerobic(EATING NITRATES) if the proper flow and dissolved O2 are obtained(very low and slow for both).
I would consider installing the lava rocks in section 2 like a "Deep Sand Bed"(DSB) to deal with nitrAtes?


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## woody019

Slipped my mind the tank was being set up freshwater. But coralbandit is right you won't have issues with micro bubbles but a sponge before the return pump will still stop any last bubbles and debris from clogging the pump.

+1 on the DSB. In that case 3 baffles after the tower I would think be needed to help slow down the water flowing into the DSB area. Not only that the "calmer" water for a lack of better words will help any fine particles settle. That in return will make it so your sponge before the pump from getting clogged up and will make it easer when cleaning because most of all nitrate causing debri will be built up in easer to reach concentrated areas. Just my 2 cents someone please correct me if anything I said is wrong.


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## Darkfeather

Coralbandit and Woody, thank you both very much for advice and insight. I took both of your suggestions into consideration and have modified my layout. At first I was thinking that I would only add 1 additional baffle after the tower, but I think that you are right about slowing the flow of the water through section 2 where I will stack some of the larger pieces of lava rock. The drawer for the filter pads will make life so much easier, I will actually make 2 identical drawers and once a week I will pull the dirty drawer and slide the second drawer with clean filter media into place.... should take a hot 2 seconds to get it done.


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## woody019

I like it! just make sure the floating baffle before the pump is high enough so that if by some reason the rocks shift and pile up on that side you don't have a water backup and flood the house.


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## Darkfeather

Well it has been a couple of weeks since I have posted any pictures on the progress of the tank. After I coated the interior of the tank with epoxy resin, I was all set to install the glass when I decided that I wanted to make a custom 3D background and decided that it would be easier to fit the pieces without the glass. So.... for the past 2 weeks I have been working on an Amazon themed background that consists of rock face and Kapok tree trunks. I have read a lot on the forums about people using concrete to coat foam to create 3D backgrounds, but I decided to go a different route. They sell some great stuff at almost every hardware store called Durham's Water Putty, it is usually located with the wood fillers. I mixed the water putty to a consistency of pancake batter and brushed it onto the foam forms that I had created. Now this stuff is NOT waterproof, but I was not worried about that nor what type of paint I used to color the background because I completely encased each section of the background in several layers of epoxy resin. The background now has a non-toxic plastic coating that will not leech out any harmful chemicals or substances into the aquarium. Prior to coating the largest pieces (tree trunks) with epoxy, I used a torch to burn away a majority of the foam and then filled the cavity with concrete to help weigh the pieces down and avoid having to silicone them into place. 


This is the first piece with the initial painting done, the paint was added in layers in an attempt to give a more natural look



Second panel with a couple of more layers of paint


Here you can tell the difference between the first layers of paint on the right and the progression of darker colors on the left


I worked on one panel at a time to make sure that I like the coloration, here the panel on the left is complete and I am getting ready to paint the one on the right


This is the Kapok Tree trunk that hides the overflow box


Test fitting the second Kapok trunk


The three back panels in place, the lighing is not very good in this picture, but the colors on the two rock panels actually blend very well together. The seam between the two panels will not be visible once the panel are mounted and live plants are added


view through the side pane


The two trunks painted and covered with epoxy resin


Two back panels after epoxy




This weekend I will install the final bulkhead fitting for the undergravel filter that will be connected to the canister filter and then it will be time to install the glass. I am hoping to have this little project wrapped up by the end of September.


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## chenowethpm

What kind of epoxy resin are you using, I've been working on a 3d background as well and am stuck there.


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## coralbandit

Wow you really got it going on!You are not missing anything.This is going to look so sweet when complete!
Is this the expoxy you used for both the wood(tank) and 3d background?
Epoxy : Epoxy Resins and Hardeners


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## Darkfeather

Thats the stuff Coral.... I ordered the Medium Cure set EPOX-635313.... Love the way this stuff sets. In the past I have always used polyester resin on my boards, but I wanted to try the epoxy resin since it would be constantly submerged unlike a surf board that is only in the water a few hours a day. The medium hardener gave me plenty of time to work the resin before it fired and it self levels wonderfully. People complain that the epoxy is too expensive, but in reality the kit I ordered from US Composites was very comperable to what I used to buy my polyester resin for.

One thing to keep in mind with the epoxy resin though is amine blush.... if you use epoxy, make sure you wash the blush off with warm water and general purpose soap. (blush is a thin wax like film that can form if the epoxy is cured on a humid day)


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## Arthur7

Very professional woodworking. Workshop as in the glider. (At a young age I have since gone through).
Will it be tight? They say: wood works. If that works well, you have something very special.


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## AJerman

Wow, that all looks fantastic. Great job! I built my stand for my 125g because I didn't like/feel like paying for the cost of stands beefy enough to hold that size aquarium, but mine is just a frame built from 2x4s. I always wanted to finish the outside of it but I don't have the tools, the workspace, or the time. I just put a black sheet over it to hide it, haha.


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## TroyVSC

Wow, all I can say is wow, can't wait to see the finished product.

After all the stuff I read on DIY 3d backgrounds I think it was smart not doing the concrete and going with epoxy.


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## Kehy

You're making me really want to learn woodworking. I've just a carver, but I'm intrigued by the idea of making a wooden tank with carved exterior decorations, like the old Victorian tanks (except not made out of brass and bronze).


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## coralbandit

It has almost been a month?How are things comming along?This is a great thread so far and really can't wait to see more!


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## silvergourami1

Great carpentry work.....it's amazing what people can do with a little ingenuity. I would of advised using acrlylic panels on the inside to ensure water leak prevention, and water perimeter breaching from leaching.

I am not sure how plywood is in reference to water contamination though, and I can't imagine the resin is safe for fish.

So far it looks great though, even if i am more of a steel/glass/stone contemporary construction type of person. 

Good luck.


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## Darkfeather

It has been an absolute beast the last three or four weeks with work, but we have managed to come a long way the build. Glass has been installed, wood has been stained and sealed, bio-tower built, background fitted (and trimmed and then refitted lol), and the tank now sits in the house. Night before last I went under the house and put footings in underneath the floor where the tank will reside. Even though it is a newer home, the floor joists run parallel with the aquarium instead of perpendicular and I like to be a little "over cautious" when it comes to supporting the weight.

Glass installed... I was going to use some 1/4" glass that I already had, but decided to go ahead and buy 3/8" instead. I ran a double line of aquarium safe silicon and then clamped and braced the glass into place. I let the silicon cure for a week and then ran another bead along all of the seams to make absolutely sure there would be no water seepage.




I went with Minwax "Special Walnut" stain, some would consider it a crime to cover the Oak with a walnut stain, but I wanted it to be a little darker than a natural oak finish
 

A comparison of the stained front and unfinished side








Glass is covered to protect it while a spray Satin Lacquer finish




Lights installed, the aquarium has three separate LED light fixtures with built in timers. While the fixtures are easily accessible to turn on and off, I wanted to set up a consistent day/night cycle for the fish and went ahead a paid a little extra for the ones with built in programmable timers


Here she is in the house with the background dry fitted. When I made the background I was still in the frame of mind that I would be using 1/4" glass.... needless to say it was just a slight bit too large because of the thicker 3/8" glass. I had to shave some of the far right panel down to get it to fit properly.


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## Darkfeather

Last night was the scary part (as if getting this thing from the workshop into the house wasn't bad enough) LEAK CHECK!!!!! Most people with a little common sense would do the leak check outside (just in case), but this thing weighs in around 300 - 325 lbs and help moving it into the house was somewhat scarce. I was pretty confident that the actual aquarium was water tight and solid, but I was a little concerned with the plumbing. Thankfully (knock on wood) there were no leaks to be found and the filter outflows and returns worked like a champ. As of this morning there were still no leaks.... This weekend I will drain it one last time so I can silicon the background into place. I will let the silicon cure for a couple of days and then refill and let cycle for a couple of weeks before I add the fish!!!


Return from the Fluval Canister filter


Slowly filling 


all full and both pumps running


view from the side glass... originally the pvc fitting on the right was going to be the drain for the overflow box, but instead I decided to make it the return from the bio-tower. If there is ever a significant power outage and my UPS runs out of juice, the return will only allow a minimal amount of water to flow back to the sump.... there is no way for a backflow siphon to occur and therefore no worries of overflowing the sump.



Next update should be in a week or two with the completed project up and running with fish in their new home ..... unitl then ~peace


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## Darkfeather

silvergourami1 said:


> Great carpentry work.....it's amazing what people can do with a little ingenuity. I would of advised using acrlylic panels on the inside to ensure water leak prevention, and water perimeter breaching from leaching.
> 
> I am not sure how plywood is in reference to water contamination though, and I can't imagine the resin is safe for fish.
> 
> So far it looks great though, even if i am more of a steel/glass/stone contemporary construction type of person.
> 
> Good luck.


Thanks Silvergourami. At one time I had thought of lining the inside with acrylic sheeting, but I read quite a few horror stories of others doing so and somehow getting water in between the acrylic and plywood and having the wood rot away. The epoxy resin is 100% fish safe once it is fully cured. There are precautions that need to be taken when using epoxy as there is the possibility to have epoxy blush occur if it is applied on a day with high humidity. The blush can be harmful to aquatic creatures if it is left on the surface, but it is easily removed with mild detergent and warm water. With this build I used fiberglass cloth on all wooden surfaces and 2 additional layers of epoxy resin for added stability, structural security and water tightness. The only possibility of water loss will be around the exterior plumbing connections as all of the interior fittings are encased in silicon for added security (yes, I go a little overboard  ).


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## Darkfeather

Put the background in last Thursday and gave the silicon 3 days to cure. Flushed the aquarium several times and then added gravel and water. I will let the tank cycle for another day or two and then drain, change the temporary media I put in the filters and then do a final fill. I am hoping to add the plants and fish next Wednesday or Thursday ( 8 or 9 Oct). Here is a short video of how she is looking:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s3GbQ1RCes


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## coralbandit

WOW!
Pretty much all I can say.Besides 
Can't wait to see it with plants and fish!
AWESOME!


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