# New Owner of an AquaClear 110: Continuing Questions...



## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

I recently replaced an Aqueon QuietFlow 20 or maybe 30 HOB filter that was on my 60 gallon fancy goldfish tank which was supplementing the filtration of a larger QuietFlow 55 -- the smaller filter was, obviously, doing nothing for the bioload in my tank and so I dropped the cash and went with a 110 after all the great things I have read and been told about this filter. 

Now, my 60 gallon is being filtered by the Aqueon QuietFlow 55 and the AquaClear 110, but I have some questions regarding the 110 if anyone could help, because while it seemed like my water was getting much clearer since letting the 110 run for awhile and ending a routine of Stability, it now appears as though the water isn't as clear as it could be...

It's been awhile since I have done any water changes, but...putting that aside for a moment...

First and foremost, do I have the media basket set up right for the 110? I have placed the sponge block on the bottom, then the carbon and then the biomax pellets in the mesh bag on top...is this the correct placement of the three forms of media for this filter?

How do I know when it's time to either replace or rinse the sponge block? And what about the biomax -- I realize these are for growth area for the beneficial bacteria, but do these ever need to be rinsed or changed?

Finally, I would like to add Seachem's Purigen to the filter system to really polish up my water and get it ridiculously clean -- how would this install in the AquaClear? Would I just drop the Purigen sack into the media basket of the 110? Where would it go -- in place of the carbon?


----------



## kert1224 (Nov 22, 2010)

the addition of the 110 was most likely greatly needed, i would have suggested a canister filter as compared to a hob for multiple reason that i dont want to waste time getting into right now. as far as the water not being as clear as it could be... i think you would be very impressed with a simply water change, but, when trying to get something to cycle, it happens much faster if you dont change water unless you absolutely have to, obviously the biomax in the 110 is still getting cycled (unless you put some from your other filter in). as far as placement of items in the filter, traditionally, yes. i personally dont use carbon at all and use uv lights instead but that is a personal choice not even considering its harder to do uv lights without canister and they are expensive. i do believe sponge blocks normally say every 2 weeks, gold fish are dirty and depending on how many you have in what size tank will alter how often you should change it. over stocked should be changed more often. i personally never change the water and the filter on the same day i normally try to do at least a few days apart. your sponge holds bacteria too. as far as bio max goes. never wash it, the bacteria on it is good and unless your sponge failed or you rarely ever take care of your filter there should not be big chunks on the biomax. chunks of stuff on the biomax is bad. (notmally ammonia i think) if you do have to wash it do not wash it with tap water, wash it gently with tank water so u just rinse the stuff off not kill all the bacteria. also i very rarely buy nex sponges, i use mine for about 6 months and power wash them when i clean the filter (very effective) im not sure what "Seachem's Purigen" is. from what you said it sounds like a polisher. is it just a simple polishing pad or is it some type of extra biomass or peat water sofner type stuff or what. by the way the canister filter are really easy to put polisher pads in were hang on backs are not. next time you might want to check out craigslist for canisters. if nothing there then check ebay, bet u can get a pretty decent one for the price u paid for that 110


----------



## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Even a 3rd filter on your tank will only take you so far if you don't do regular water changes. Some people can get away with it and if you have plants it is easier to go long periods, but I don't like the look of my tank after about 10 days. That's mostly personal pref though.

You have your filter setup right. The only way to get the purigen bag in there is to remove the carbon bag. Leave the biomax. If you're not removing any water I'd be cleaning that sponge at least once a week. Tank water is preferred, but conditioned tap water will work as well.


----------



## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Wow Kert...

While I thank you for your detailed reply, I would appreciate if in the future you separate your sentences and paragraphs a bit better...it's so hard to read! 



kert1224 said:


> the addition of the 110 was most likely greatly needed, i would have suggested a canister filter as compared to a hob for multiple reason that i dont want to waste time getting into right now.


I understand this perspective, and it's been described to me already what the benefits are of going with a canister over an HOB, especially for a goldfish bioload at 60 gallons...however, I am only comfortable dealing with an HOB given my interest and competency level in the hobby; hence, I was advised to go with a 110 as the best HOB available. This is supplementing an Aqueon QuietFlow 55...



> as far as the water not being as clear as it could be... i think you would be very impressed with a simply water change, but, when trying to get something to cycle, it happens much faster if you dont change water unless you absolutely have to, obviously the biomax in the 110 is still getting cycled (unless you put some from your other filter in).


Well, here's the situation -- I added the 110 when I was at the very end of a Stability routine, so the tank itself should have been kick-cycled with the Stability by then; however, you are right, the biomax in the 110 was nowhere near cycled by this point. But perhaps the water change is what I need to start seeing more crystal clear water -- what percentage do you recommend at this point for a change? Or should I even do this being that the 110 is trying to cycle? 



> as far as placement of items in the filter, traditionally, yes. i personally dont use carbon at all and use uv lights instead but that is a personal choice not even considering its harder to do uv lights without canister and they are expensive. i do believe sponge blocks normally say every 2 weeks, gold fish are dirty and depending on how many you have in what size tank will alter how often you should change it. over stocked should be changed more often.


I have only three small/medium sized goldfish in this tank -- but do you think those sponges really need to be totally replaced? Can't they be rinsed out in either tank water or treated tap water? 



> i personally never change the water and the filter on the same day i normally try to do at least a few days apart. your sponge holds bacteria too.


I figured the sponge holds bacteria, which is why I'm wondering if they should be replaced so fast...



> as far as bio max goes. never wash it, the bacteria on it is good and unless your sponge failed or you rarely ever take care of your filter there should not be big chunks on the biomax. chunks of stuff on the biomax is bad. (notmally ammonia i think) if you do have to wash it do not wash it with tap water, wash it gently with tank water so u just rinse the stuff off not kill all the bacteria.


So, never clean the biomax pellets? And these NEVER need replacing? 



> im not sure what "Seachem's Purigen" is. from what you said it sounds like a polisher. is it just a simple polishing pad or is it some type of extra biomass or peat water sofner type stuff or what.


You never heard of Seachem's PURIGEN?

Seachem. Purigen

What I found strange about this description on their site was that it's not mentioned to be used under "Freshwater Community"...



> by the way the canister filter are really easy to put polisher pads in were hang on backs are not. next time you might want to check out craigslist for canisters. if nothing there then check ebay, bet u can get a pretty decent one for the price u paid for that 110


Not interested in the canisters right now, but thanks.


----------



## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> Even a 3rd filter on your tank will only take you so far if you don't do regular water changes.


I understand...



> Some people can get away with it and if you have plants it is easier to go long periods, but I don't like the look of my tank after about 10 days. That's mostly personal pref though.


My tank is artificially planted...



> You have your filter setup right. The only way to get the purigen bag in there is to remove the carbon bag. Leave the biomax. If you're not removing any water I'd be cleaning that sponge at least once a week. Tank water is preferred, but conditioned tap water will work as well.


Thanks; this is appreciated. So, to do the Purigen, take the carbon out, and fit the Purigen sack between the sponge and biomax?

Also -- the 110 has been running for more than one week now; do I really need to clean the sponge? Isn't there some BB in there? And what about the biomax -- do I need to wash or clean these?


----------



## knownothingfishowner (Feb 22, 2010)

You can "clean" the biomax, but make sure it's in a bucket with some of your tank water already in it. Just swish it around in there and let the crap fall off of it. Never rinse it under the tap. 

As for Purigen, it's some pretty good stuff removing the greatest hits - ammonia, nitrate and nitrite. It's not a cure-all, but it does a very respectable job given how little is required to do the job. Or, if you're looking to remove toxins and compounds without the drawbacks of carbon removing nutrients - try Pura Guard - which you can custom cut to fit your filter. It's cheaper than Purigen too.


----------



## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Yes, that is the right location. You may need to adjust the size of the bag. You still want the biomax to be sufficiently submerged while sitting on top of the purigen. Washing out the sponge in condtioned or tank water, shouldn't hurt the bacteria in it. You can wash out the biomax at the same time as the sponge filter.


----------



## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

knownothingfishowner said:


> You can "clean" the biomax, but make sure it's in a bucket with some of your tank water already in it. Just swish it around in there and let the crap fall off of it. Never rinse it under the tap.


Okay; but how often do these things need "rinsing"? Aren't they really the breeding ground for the BB? 



> As for Purigen, it's some pretty good stuff removing the greatest hits - ammonia, nitrate and nitrite. It's not a cure-all, but it does a very respectable job given how little is required to do the job. Or, if you're looking to remove toxins and compounds without the drawbacks of carbon removing nutrients - try Pura Guard - which you can custom cut to fit your filter. It's cheaper than Purigen too.


Well, I really just wanna use the Purigen for water polishing, as I have seen examples of people's tanks using this stuff, and their water looked so amazingly clear, it was nearly transparent...


----------



## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> Yes, that is the right location. You may need to adjust the size of the bag. You still want the biomax to be sufficiently submerged while sitting on top of the purigen.


Okay, thanks. So, the biomax needs to really be smushed down there, so it's submerged in the filter water? Should I just toss out the carbon bag, or save it? 



> Washing out the sponge in condtioned or tank water, shouldn't hurt the bacteria in it. You can wash out the biomax at the same time as the sponge filter.


Alright.

Do you not recommend doing what Hagen suggests, that is, replacing the biomax, carbon and the sponge every so often with all-new media?


----------



## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

You can replace as often as you want. But, if they are serviceable why replace them? Your call on the carbon. They are cheap enough to replace.


----------



## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Gotcha; thanks, jr.


----------

