# Tank Chemistry vs. Tap Water



## ValorieMackison (Dec 10, 2010)

I have a 10 gallon & a 55 gallon, both are freshwater. The larger of the two is new & currently fishless, but the 10 gallon is established & currently houses 1 betta. 

After reading a post yesterday about someone testing their tap water, I decided to give it a shot. (I live in large metropolitan area, thus city water.) I tested the 10 gallon yesterday, so I'll use that as a comparison. (I've been using Jungle Start Right to treat the water. Also plan to incorporate peat moss soon to address water hardness.)

10 Gallon (12/09/2010)-
Nitrate- 10
Nitrite- 0
GH- 150
KH- 80
pH-7.8
Ammonia- 0 

Tap Water (12/10/2010)-
Nitrate- 10
Nitrite- 0
GH- 150
KH- 80
pH- 8.4
Ammonia- 0

I've been using the Hagen Nutrafin liquid test kits. What should be done about this as it seems the Start Right affects nothing but the pH?

Thanks.


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## mfgann (Oct 21, 2010)

ValorieMackison said:


> I have a 10 gallon & a 55 gallon, both are freshwater. The larger of the two is new & currently fishless, but the 10 gallon is established & currently houses 1 betta.
> 
> After reading a post yesterday about someone testing their tap water, I decided to give it a shot. (I live in large metropolitan area, thus city water.) I tested the 10 gallon yesterday, so I'll use that as a comparison. (I've been using Jungle Start Right to treat the water. Also plan to incorporate peat moss soon to address water hardness.)
> 
> ...


Ammonia and Nitrites are 0, which is great.
Nitrates at 10ppm are not really a large concern. They are only toxic at much higher levels.. around 40 or below is still alright to keep fish in. As for pH, most fish will adjust to a relatively constant pH value, it is pH swings that become very dangerous. My pH values sit around 7.5. 

I've been using the Aqueon water conditioner, however after hearing many people happy with Prime (by Seachem) I think I'll switch to that next time I run out. 

I wouldn't use pH up or pH down for any reason. Most people will warn you off about them.


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## ValorieMackison (Dec 10, 2010)

I've been reading about the use of peat moss to correct water hardness in aquariums. Some use it in their fillable bag HOB filters, while some strain the water through a home constructed filter before introducing it into the aquarium. How effective is this? & will I have to be concerned about the hardness fluctuating between water changes?

For that matter, how concerned should I be about GH 150ppm? I plan to start the 55 gallon with zebrafish (zebra danios) as I have a 6 month old daughter & another on the way. She loves watching the aquariums, figured they would be an exciting "show" for her/them. Can zebras handle that range of hardness? The articles I read stated they tend to be fairly hardy other than ammonia causing their gills to ulcerate, like most fish.


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## mfgann (Oct 21, 2010)

ValorieMackison said:


> I've been reading about the use of peat moss to correct water hardness in aquariums. Some use it in their fillable bag HOB filters, while some strain the water through a home constructed filter before introducing it into the aquarium. How effective is this? & will I have to be concerned about the hardness fluctuating between water changes?
> 
> For that matter, how concerned should I be about GH 150ppm? I plan to start the 55 gallon with zebrafish (zebra danios) as I have a 6 month old daughter & another on the way. She loves watching the aquariums, figured they would be an exciting "show" for her/them. Can zebras handle that range of hardness? The articles I read stated they tend to be fairly hardy other than ammonia causing their gills to ulcerate, like most fish.


Hopefully beaslbob will weigh in. He uses peat moss in the bottom of his tank under a layer of sand, and then prochoice select to correct for hardness over time. I've got a similar setup, at his suggestion, but honestly I've never tested for hardness.

As for zebra danios, they are some extremely hardy fish. I think you'll find they're pretty adaptable to all but the worst conditions. If you like them, they're great fish.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

checking in

IMHO it is the peat moss that keeps hardness constant. In my tanks kh of 4 degrees and a gh of 9 degrees for over two years.

With sand after 3 years kh was 19 degrees and gh was 35 degrees.

What I think is extremely unusual and very rare (unique even) is how close your tap water and tank actually is. Over time tank conditions can vary considerable from tap water.

The start right (if like other conditioners) is to neutralize chlorine/chloramines. The effects on other parameters is a side effect.


FWIW what I do with my systems is to initially let it set with the plants for a week. Then add fish slowly and do no water changes. That way the tank establishes itself based on the tank conditions and not the input water conditions.


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## jeffnc (Oct 30, 2010)

The thing you aren't measuring is chlorine, which is the major thing you're trying to remove with tap water treatment. My tap water is also high in ammonia, so my treatment supposedly reduces that as well.


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## ValorieMackison (Dec 10, 2010)

I plan to get a chlorine test kit Sunday.


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## jeffnc (Oct 30, 2010)

Don't spend too much money on one - any reasonable tap water treatment will remove chlorine, no problem.


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