# Got a 55G for 60 bucks . But.......



## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

So i got a killer deal on a 55g tank with filter, heater, glass top,Light, and lots of decor. $65 and the guy delivered it. 

The only bad is the top plastic rim/lip has a crack in it.The glass is 100% and cosmetically i can flip the tank around and put the crack to the back. 

Is this plastic piece essential for stuctural integrity?

I will post better picks when i get home but here she is in all her glory.



How not to add substrate.



-Phill:fish-in-bowl:


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

As long as the center support is not affected by that crack, you should be fine. 

Yep, not bad for that money. Just needs a serious cleanup. And put some clothes on that naked baby doll ! *o2 *r2


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

Thank you! awesome! And i will.


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## ArtyG (Jun 29, 2011)

Looks like it came with a new style LED light . I noticed WallyWorld has been selling their 55 gallon kit for less than $170 with your choice of LED or fluorescent lights. An outstanding value and the main reason you can always find a 55 gallon deal on Craigslist . Now all you need is a sturdy stand. Have fun!


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## rtmaston (Jul 14, 2012)

I agree as long as the center support is there and not cracked you should be fine.i would fill it up and let it set a day to make sure no leaks.good price.post some pictures when you get it up and going.what brand is the tank.will you let me know.thanks


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

Update. 

So I found a stand for $ 40 and I love it. 
Got some substrate and gravel and far too many plant bulbs.

Also got some 5+1 test strips.

Here's where I'm at.

GH-120

KH-80

PH-6.5

Nitrite-0

Nitrate-20

What should I do?


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

Are my eyes going bad or did you not list your Ammonia reading ?


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

Is that a separate kit?


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

No.... part of any water testing kit. Important too. The three tests that you will run constantly are Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates. They, together, tell about your bacteria colonies and water quality. Those other tests tell you about your tap water and aren't normally adjusted by tank maintainance.


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

Back to the LFS I go.


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

These are the strips I used. 

5 in 1 Aquarium Test Strips - API


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

Sounds like you have everything else. If you got a test kit, Ammonia test should be in it. But yes, you definitely need it! Read up on the thread about the Nitrogen cycle and you'll see why. Basically, two types of beneficial bacteria need to be present in sufficient quantities to convert tank waste from Ammonia to Nitrite and Nitrite to Nitrate. If not, those products are toxic to your fish.

The way to keep Nitrate levels from becoming toxic is thru water changes.


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

Ammonia isn't tested on those.

And if you want more accurate readings, get APIs master test kit. Best investment you will make in the aquarium hobby.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Good advice from CAM.Liquid test are more reliable .If you are going to cotinue to use strips remove a cup(sample of) water and dip strip into cup,instead of tank.Dipping strip in tank could possibly allow chemicals(from strips) to be released into your aquarium.Many have said their readings seemed "blurred" on strips due to the chemicals from each pad mixing.They (strips)also go stale if moisture is absorbed during storage.


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## rtmaston (Jul 14, 2012)

thanks coralbndit i never thought abot that.i will start doing it that way.i have a lot of test tubes.


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

So after getting an API master test kit (thanks CAM) here are my numbers


Ammonia-0
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-80

I Have two tiger oscars in the tank.

Check out my pics of the progress. I love feedback.


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

Ph-7.4


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

You have to bring down the nitrates. Do one massive water change.... like 75-90 percent, or two big ones of 50 percent. You want to keep nitrates below 40. Lower for some sensitive fish.


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## TroyVSC (Aug 29, 2012)

Sorry missed the post about getting the kit.

Good deal getting tank and extras + stand for $100.00.


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

Read a few posts up above, Troy... he did get it.


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

Should I vacum the substrate?


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

When you do water changes, yes. You don't need to vacuum every water change but set yourself up on a schedule. 

For me, I change at least 40% of my water three or four times a week. Every time I change it, I vacuum where my cats eat their shrimp pellets since it usually leaves a mess just under the gravel. 

Then I parcel out my tank into thirds and vacuum one third of the gravel every week. 

My tank is still new, less than two months old, so I change water and vacuum the top inch of gravel a lot to help the colonies of bacteria from being overwhelmed. Once my tank becomes mature, I will settle into a twice a week schedule (if I can help myself... I'm addicted to changing water). 

That will give you a basic idea, you can set up a schedule that works for you. Let your test results be your guide. Keep the Ammonia and Nitrite at zero and the Nitrate under 40, preferably under 20. 

Tank maintenance and not overstocking will help you with the ammonia and nitrites. Water changes will help you with the all of them but is the only way to reduce nitrates.


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## Donald Hansen (Jan 21, 2011)

Your tank and cover appear to be Aqueon, the same brand I have. The HOB filter looks different than mine but it may be an older model. With fluorescence lights, not LED, I paid $200. Enjoy. 

Don H


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

last nights numbers after a 50% water change.
GH-120

KH-80

PH-7.4

Ammonia-.25 ppm 

Nitrite-0

Nitrate-60

shouldn't my nitrate be way lower? I vacumed the substrate at this time as well.

Should i change the filter media? its about two weeks old. I was reluctant to do this because i don't think my tank has fully cycled.


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

Yes, still too high. And you need to eliminate the ammonia, too. 

More water change.... another good sized one, like 50-75%. More, if you can.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Leave your filter alone for another 2 weeks at least unless it gets clogged,then just rinse the mechanicals,DON'T mess with your bio.The ammonia at that reading could have been a false reading or you may have stirred stuff up/or disturbed a anerobic area in the substrate.It should straighten itself out(the ammonia),but you should change water again(50% at least) to remove the nitrAtes,and then should be good to go IMO.


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

OK so after work i will do another 50% water change and test again. 

I find it difficult to distinguish between the colors on the Nitrate test so it could be higher.

Coralbandit- What do you mean by dont mess with my bio? Should i not vacum the substrate for 2 weeks or just the filter?


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

You can carefully vaccum parts of your substrate(not all) without issue.Don't mess with the bio media in your filter(ceramic rings,bio balls what ever you have in filter besides mechanicals).The part of your filter you can clean is the sponge or floss if you have one of them,just not the ceramic rings...


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

I'm using activated carbon as my media. Should i switch to ceramic or another option.


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

Carbon and ceramic serve are two different functions.

Your filters can contain three different filter media: Biological, mechanical, and chemical. 

Biological means it contains your beneficial bacteria. This is where your ceramic comes in, but you don't have to use ceramics such as bio rings. You can grow bacteria in sponges too. 

Chemical means it's removing chemicals from the water. Think of it as making your water more visually clear. It's optional.

Mechanical means it's removing gunk from your water. Mechanical filters will show dirt and junk where as biological and chemical materials are invisible to your naked eye. 

What's in your filter right now ? A sponge and carbon inside of a floss bag ?


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Ya you want to switch to ceramic rings or bio ball type media.Activated carbon is really chemical filtration and by the time it would seed with bacteria it will also realese everything it removed from the water.In general activated carbon last from days to maybe one month if you bought the best.It also besides medications removes nothing that water changes won't and actually less than water changes as they remove hormones ,physical detritus and everything else in the water column.Changing water also adds a much cleaner enviroment for your fish,along with fresh co2 and oxygen from tap(always dechlorinate).


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

Yes, I'm currently using a floss bag type filter i feel with carbon.

I will go to the LFS and pickup some bio ball. Should this be in addition of carbon or a substitute?

Thanks for tolerating all my newbie questions guys.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Replacement.You can use carbon if you choose,but most don't need it if you keep up on waterchanges.And again it is very short lived in general lasting in effectiveness 2 weeks or less,where upon exhaustion it will release all it absorbed(not good).Many here are now using Seachem Purigen in replacement of carbon.It is a synthetic resin that is much more effective and rechargeble upon exhaustion,it also does not release what it absorbs until you recharge it in 50/50 bleach water solution(good stuff).


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

If you have more then one filter bay like I do, it gives you tons of options. 

I run sponges in all four of my filter bays (2 bays in each filter). I run ceramic bio rings in three of them, inside floss filter bags. And in the other one, Seachem Purigen. 

Tons of bioligical media. Tons of mechanical media. And a little chemical media for added insurance of having clear water.


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

I tested my water from the tap last night and heres what ive got.

Ammonia-.25 ppm

Nitrite-0

Nitrate-30

So water changes are not going to help me? Is this correct?

Is this even possible that the nitrates can be this high right from the tap? 

link to water report for my city.

http://www.ci.lathrop.ca.us/pwd/utilities/pdf/2011AnnualWaterQualityReport.pdf


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

You are VERY close to having a cycled tank. You want:

Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrates - less than 40 but preferably less than 20. And the lower, the better for your fish. 

So yes, you are very close. 

And yes, water changes will help you. You change 50% of water and you reduce ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by 50%, assuming your tap water contains none of them. 

My tap water tested as 5 ppm. If yours tests at 30 ppm... yikes... time to move !! 

Run a baseline test on your tap water every now and then just to see what it is that you are using in your tank. It changes from time to time, in some municipalities, season to season.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Take a bucket of tap water and let it set for 24 hours and re-test.Sometimes water "stabilises " after being aged.You can also do the test and add airation(a pump and air stone") this may make a gretaer difference.
As a dechlorinator I would say you want to use PRIME as it converts the ammonia so it will be of some help to you.
Cam is correct that even municipal water changes from season to season as many still come from wells(privately owned).And good for you looking up your water supply report.Theseshould be done (legally) I think twice a year.
On a side note if you are friends with a neighbor ask if you can test their water,because some here who have had nitrAte problems ended up finding out THEIR supply line to their house was leaking or damaged causing the contaminents.


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

My water readings today after a 50% water change.

Ammonia-.25 
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-40

So I feel a little better about the nitrate but I'm throwing my hands up in regards to the ammonia. I guess I just have poor water.


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

Probably not the water from your tap causing the trace amount of ammonia. Appears your bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite aren't colonized in sufficient numbers yet. Patience. It's hard.... we know.

Try adding some Tetra Safestart. It really helped me cycle faster. You can't add it within 24 hours of a water change though.

40 is still a bit high, given that big water change. Your tap water may be a bit high in nitrates. Hopefully it won't always be.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

If you are using PRIME as a dechlrinator the ammonia will still register on your test even though it has been converted to a safer form.Really if your not using prime when you run out of whatever dechlorinator you should switch to prime.It is more economical(if measured and used properly) and will convert ammonia to less toxic form(and still regiter on test) .You have a healthy supply of nitrAtes so in my mind it is safe to assume that you ARE properly cycled and this will just be an issue you deal with or something you place in your learning curve(EVERYONES WATER IS DIFFERENT, this I learned from someone long gone but not forgotten{NB}).


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

Bandit, is it even possible for the nitrite-converting bacteria to develop faster than the ammonia-converting bacteria, since the former is dependent upon the latter?


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

OK I just went over all info(in this post )again.Possibly the tank is not cycled as in my prior post I only recalled he had ammonia in tap(.25).But I do now see he has nitrAtes in tap also(I know I commented on this before {MYBAD}).So it is diffacult to say whether the tank is cycled.According to post we have never seen nitrItes yet(and may never), but they usually spike in a normal cycling process.I really can't confirm or guess what will happen to a cycling system that has nitrates directly introduced to the tank from tap?GOOD CATCH CHRIS!


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

My water disappoints me.but I will continue to test.


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

I'm going to say it again because I believe it strongly and because I think you will be veryhappy with it:

Tetra SafeStart.

I used it to boost the bacteria counts in both my tanks and continue to add some every time I add fish to the 20 gallon since it is just 5 weeks old.

It's meant to start a safe fish-in cycle but can be used anytime you have an ammonia source to feed the bacteria it contains.

I really think it would end your ammonia problem. Read up on it.


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

If you don't trust my judgment, maybe you will trust Crash Davis. If you recall his famous speech from the movie Bull Durham....

Well, I believe in the soul.........., the small of a woman's back, the hanging curve ball, high fiber, good scotch, that the novels of Susan Sontag are self-indulgent, overrated crap. I believe Lee Harvey Oswald acted alone. I believe there ought to be a constitutional amendment outlawing Astroturf and the designated hitter. I believe in the sweet spot, soft-core pornography, opening your presents Christmas morning rather than Christmas Eve. I believe in long, slow, deep, soft, wet kisses that last three days, and I believe in Tetra SafeStart.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

The TSS may help you,it certainly won't hurt.Many here have very different opinions on bottled bacteria ranging from "snake oil" to it worked for me.Recently several members have used it with sucess,Zwanged did a daily post(log ) of how it worked out for him.I think Zeke would recommend it also.
On your overall water quality it may change from season to season and you(if you feel so inclined) be interested in a RO water filter.The RO will remove 100% of impurities and you would not use it as total water supply but rather mix(cut) it 50/50 with tap.The mixing would allow you to keep ph and hardness reasonable and at 50/50 you would be removing 50% of the ammonia and nitrAtes in your source water.
Others have used even common house filters with good quality filter cartridges to reduce their impurities.
I would strongly consider switching to PRIME water conditioner first since you have to dechlorinate anyways and see if that helps water quality any(remember that the ammonia will still register,but will have been converted to less toxic form).


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

I probably read 30 websites about bottled bacteria, Tom. And in all that reading, I have confidence in two of the dozens of products out there: TSS and Dr Tim's One and Only.

Others might work but these are the only two that appear to me to have led to outstanding results.


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Nice deal on the tank. But i wanted to warn you that 55gal is the minimum tank size for 1 oscar, and you'll be pushing it with two. Those fish can get over a foot long, and grow fast, so be warned! Be sure to keep up on water changes as waste -- which will ultimately become nitrates... will build up fast when the fish get big. 

How big are the oscars?

Enjoy!

zeke


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

I have another 55 I was recently given so when the time comes I will separate the two .

I will go to wal mart and get a Bottle of TSS .thanks for the help.


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

Glad to help.

Read up on TSS before you use it. Here is a good place to start to understand when to use it and what it does:

Tetra Tetra SafeStart® : Questions, Answers, How To, FAQs, Tips, Advice, Answers, Buying Guide


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

Ammonia -.25
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-20

I'm not content but my nitrates are down.

These #s are with TSS added and daily 40% water changes. I no longer drink my tap water*r2


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

How long did you wait after adding TSS before you did a water change?


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

Around 18 hrs


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## CAM (Jan 27, 2013)

Should be OK.

You definitely cannot add RSS within 24 hours of a water change. You also need to wait a while after adding TSS to do the next water change. I wait 24 hrs but 18 should be fine.

Your Nitrates are good now and I'm betting the small Amy of ammonia will soon be gone.

Are you sure your test is showing .25? The yellow and yellow-green are tough to tell apart sometimes.


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

Ive had several people use there eyes on the chart and they all agree on .25. The Nitrate test is the toughest for me to read.

I will test again after work. Thanks again for everyone's input.


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Note that the API freshwater test kit sometimes gives false 0.25 ammonia readings. Or to be more accurate, it does not make a distinction between relatively non-toxic ammonium (NH4) and ammonia (NH3). If your pH is above 7 you should be more concerned, and if it is below 7 you should be less concerned as the ammonia should get protonated to form ammonium.

Regardless you should keep a close eye on your ammonia levels -- it should be basically zero if your tank is fully cycled.

Reference: NH3/NH4 ; what is the difference

-Zeke



philthy209 said:


> Ive had several people use there eyes on the chart and they all agree on .25. The Nitrate test is the toughest for me to read.
> 
> I will test again after work. Thanks again for everyone's input.


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Regarding TSS and water changes -- The way I used it -- i did *zero* water changes the first 10 days -- the instructions say not to do any water changes for 2 weeks if you add it at the same time as adding the fish. But that's because I literally had to wait for waste to build up. I just had a few small fish in a 75 gallon tank. 

Your situation is possibly different and during cycling you should do water changes whenever your water parameters get sufficiently bad. E.g., if ammonia > 1ppm, if nitrite > 1ppm. But if your tank is not cycled at all, you will likely need *some ammonia* and *some nitrite* for the beneficial bacteria to feed on and colonize in your tank and in the filter. in the end, after the tank is fully cycled, you should just see zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and some nitrates (e.g. 10-20ppm). If you are partially cycled then the TSS should just help speed/finish your cycling process so keep doing water changes as needed.

From what I read on this thread it looks like you probably should sit tight, monitor your water parameters, and see if your ammonia drops off and if your nitrates are rising while ammonia/nitrite stay at zero. Sounds like you may be close to being cycled. After you're cycled, just do routine weekly water changes / vacuuming excess waste and you should be in good shape.

-Zeke


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## philthy209 (Feb 25, 2013)

Ammonia-0
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-20

I'm feeling good about the TSS and me kinda chillaxing on the water changes.


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Yup... it is good stuff...


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