# 14g Coralife Biocube Noob! Questions and Suggestions?



## Nanoclown (Jan 17, 2013)

Hi all, i'm new to the forums and new to the aquarium hobby. I just have some general questions to ask so I can see where I should go from here. Bare with me, this might get a little lengthy, because I want to be as specific as I can with you guys, for the best responses 

So I have this small tank (and I hear that it's not a great idea for beginners to start with a small tank, but due to space constraints, I really couldn't go any larger), and I received saltwater from a good friend of mine who keeps a 100+ gallon saltwater tank which he has had up and running for about half a year now. So I dumped all of his water into my tank. I also have live sand mixed with regular sand, at about an inch and a half deep. Also, there's about 20 pounds of live rock. 
I hope this is alright for me to post up here for you guys, but here's what my tank looks like currently:









Now-- I have a master reef test kit. Is it time for me to test my water? It's been cycling now for about four days. I also still need to purchase a hydrometer, for checking the salinity.

Fish-wise-- I'm thinking of starting with a hardy clownfish, the Ocellaris. Eventually I would like to add a blood red fire shrimp and either a purple or orchid dottyback. 
Should I perhaps start with a small invertebrate like some snails, just to see how they thrive in my tank, before upgrading to a clown?

Also, when would it be okay to start adding some corals? I suppose i should start with hardier corals before moving on to the "softer" corals that can be more touchy to certain lighting / water movements (eventually I may need a stronger powerhead).

And finally-- I hear I can add a protein skimmer to the tank. Is this necessary right now, at my stage in my tank? When would I need one, if at all?

Thanks guys! Hope you can steer me on a right track!


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

Hello.
Your tank is not really big enough to warrant a Skimmer, weekly water changes will alleviate excess nutrient problems.
The water you got form your bud is good stuff, but its not going to cycle your tank. There isn't enough bacteria in water to do that, you will have to wait out the normal Nitrogen Cycle which is going to run you 4-6 week. This will grow enough bacteria for your system to support life.
The fish you have picked out are ok, so to speak. Everyone wants a Clownfish, which is really meant for a 20g tank, but most are able to keep in 10g, so your safe there. I would not on the other hand keep a Dottyback in there as they are meant for 30g tanks.
You might want to start off with a CUC (Clean Up Crew) consisting of mostly snails, as they don't tend to eat your corals. You can put Hermits in there also, but those I don't usually advise on, because they can munch up some corals if hungry, and tend to kill snails for thier shells. But that one is your call.
I would not put any corals in the tank for at least 3 months after your cycle is complete, and you've added your fish. the bioload will need to catch up in your tnak first. And the majority of Hardy Corals are the Soft Corals.
I would not recommend a Hydrometer especially if you plan on keping Corals, they are inaccurate and inconsistant. I'd go for the Refractometer, much safer bet.
As far as testing, I would'nt bother for the first 2 weeks of the cycle, that kinda just irritates poeple to see nothing going on.


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## Nanoclown (Jan 17, 2013)

Thanks for the reply, Reefer. How exactly do i know when the nitrogen cycle is complete? How do I know that its in progress? I was never good at remembering learning these things in school..  Also, I tested my water just for the hell of it, anyways. Phosphates and nitrates were high. Calcium and kH were perfect. Should I just leave everything alone before messing with the balance of things?
And is it okay to add this "CuC" now, that you speak of?


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

You shouldn't add anything to the tank until the Cycle is complete. Ammonia is very dangerous to most critters.
In order for you to know when its done, your numbers for Ammonia and Nitrite will read 0, and Nitrates should be under 40.
In a Reef Tank, you will need to test for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, PH, ALK, MAG, Phosphates and Calcium. I can give you the good numbers for those also
PH- 7.8-8.2 You should try and keep it fom 8.0-8.4
ALK- 8-12dKH
MAG- 1250-1450
CA- 420-480
Nitrate- under 30
Ammonia- 0
Nitrite- 0
Phosphate- under .5

You can test every week, and do .25% water changes every week if you wish, this will keep your system under a stabile cycle.
Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle and Cycling. Methods for Ammonia, Nitrite Removal.


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## tike (Nov 10, 2008)

With all the live rock you put in there you might not go through a cycle. Make sure you do as RM says and test for ammonia etc. I have set up MANY reef tanks with cured live rock and have added in corals hours later with no problem at all. It needs to be cured to work.


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## Sully (Oct 31, 2012)

Did the rock you put in also come from your friends tank? If it is truly "cured Live Rock", you may not go through a cycle at all. We'll need to know that first. IF the rock you have in there was "dry rock" then go with what ReefingMadness is telling you, he knows his stuff.


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## Nanoclown (Jan 17, 2013)

The rocks were said to be fully cured-- bought from a local fish store. I did some more tests yesterday-- pH was at about 8, and both my nitrites and nitrates were incredibly high. Should I just wait it out and keep testing? Or, if you suggest I do water changes, what percent of water should i change out, and how often should I do them?


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## Reefing Madness (Aug 12, 2011)

You can start on 10-15% weekly water changes.


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