# Seachem's PhosGuard & Purigen Have Been Added To Tank; So Far, No Success...



## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Okay. As you all can recall, I have been dealing with an absolutely horrendous diatom outbreak in my 60 gallon fancy goldfish tank. The belief was that the silicates in my tap water may be to blame. Without testing my tap water, I dumped 200ml or so of Seachem's PhosGuard into "The Bag" (Seachem) media pouch and put that in my AquaClear 110 filter. I was told this should combat and kill the silicates in the water.

Weeks later, the diatoms persist. To be frank, they're not nearly as bad as they were -- and I don't see new ones popping up anywhere, so maybe the PhosGuard is doing something to the silicate supply. But, the diatoms are still on much of the ornaments and plants still, although a bit reduced in ferociousness and deep color...I cleaned them off a couple of the plants yet again, but then just got exhausted with it. 

I am considering using purified regular prepackaged drinking-safe water in the tank for the next top off, to possibly prevent silicates from entering via the tap water...but can this water be used in an aquarium? The bottles of this "purified" water we have from the supermarket says something about having "added minerals" in it...is this safe for fish?

Now -- I have finally ordered Seachem's Purigen, which I read so much about, and it came as a 100ml prepackaged pouch, which I rinsed and then dropped into my AquaClear 110 on top of the PhosGuard pouch. I have read about this product polishing water to such an extreme quality, it makes the fish look like they're "suspended in air" and being that this is what I am after with my water quality, I immediately added the pouch to my filter. However, the Purigen has been running for several hours now, and I do not see any change in my water quality -- is it too soon to judge? Does anyone know how long it takes for Purigen to "kick in"? Seachem told me a few days, but I have read testimonials from online users who have claimed to see sparkling clear water within hours, or 24 hours...

Finally, is there anyone who could confirm that I am running the media correctly in my AC 110? Here's how I have the media as of right now:

*Bottom of Media Basket: SPONGE BLOCK
On Top of Sponge Block: PHOSGUARD POUCH
On Top of PhosGuard Pouch: PURIGEN POUCH
On Top of Purigen Pouch: CERAMIC BIO-RINGS IN MESH BAG*

Is this setup correct for maximum flow through the Purigen at least? Or should I move the Purigen so it's the last media before the final water flow return to the tank?


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## NeonShark666 (Dec 13, 2010)

The best way to avoid silicates in your water is to use distilled water to mix with your sea-salts. Distilled water should have no minerals in it. Any public water supply will probably have some in it, especially if the water source is ground water. When you add water to replace evaporated water, always use distilled water. This imitates rainfall. When you use distilled water always well aeriate it first. This allows CO2 in the air to stabalize it's ph.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

NeonShark666 said:


> The best way to avoid silicates in your water is to use distilled water to mix with your sea-salts. Distilled water should have no minerals in it. Any public water supply will probably have some in it, especially if the water source is ground water. When you add water to replace evaporated water, always use distilled water. This imitates rainfall. When you use distilled water always well aeriate it first. This allows CO2 in the air to stabalize it's ph.


Thanks for the quick reply, Neon...

The water I am thinking of using to replace my tap water with is the type you can get at any supermarket, etc. -- the "purified drinking water" jugs, but the label doesn't say anything about being "distilled" because I do not believe you can drink distilled water...the jugs only read "purified"...

These jugs we bought also say something about "with added minerals" but I don't know if it's safe to dump in the tank; also, I don't add any "sea salts" like you mentioned -- our tap water is connected to a water softening unit which uses salt pellets, though...

I tried to clip an image of the kind of water we're thinking of (the container itself), but I cannot find one...it's the SPARKLETTS PURIFIED WATER in the semi-large jugs...

Do you have any ideas regarding the Purigen questions I had?


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

I would think that the Purigen may take at least a few days to have your water ran through it to start making a noticeable change. That is just a guess though. No such thing as miracle products in my mind. For the phosguard, I don't see that stuff removing any diatom algae you may have already had before you added it. It may stop any new growth or impede it, but don't see it making existing stuff disappear. I would have done a good cleaning of it prior to adding to then test and see what difference it made to give a fresh start. Not sure if that is what you did or not.

Adding the water you mention would probably be okay. Probably just has things like magnesium and calcium added back in, which you and your fish need. Guessing it has been completely stripped of everything like RODI water and then stuff added back as RODI water is not the best to drink either because of the complete stripping. Topoff may be okay using it, but I wouldn't use 100% all the time for things like your water changes.


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## James0816 (Jun 19, 2009)

Diatoms happen. It's part of the game. No use fretting about it and spending countless $$$ trying to prevent it. Let them do their thing. Wipe them off when you see them. They will eventually fade away.


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

+1 with James
Phosoguard and purigen aren't really for diatoms anyway. Phoso is used to remove excess phosphates and seachem is as you see is a water polisher that is for things suspended in the water column itself.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> I would think that the Purigen may take at least a few days to have your water ran through it to start making a noticeable change.


Thanks; this is more of what I was hoping to read in terms of feedback. 



> That is just a guess though.


That's what Seachem speculated as well (a few days). 



> No such thing as miracle products in my mind.


I'm not looking for a miracle cure, per se, just something to get my water to look better than it has since I set this tank up -- from what I have read online, of end user testimonials, Purigen is so ridiculously effective, it makes tanks appear to contain fish that seem to be free floating in air the water is so clear and clean. That is the kind of goal I am after. 

Nearly every end user review/report regarding their experiences with the stuff reads the exact same way -- with sentiments about the jaw-dropping clarity of their water; I didn't think of this as a miracle cure, but was hoping to at least get similar results as these people.



> For the phosguard, I don't see that stuff removing any diatom algae you may have already had before you added it. It may stop any new growth or impede it, but don't see it making existing stuff disappear. I would have done a good cleaning of it prior to adding to then test and see what difference it made to give a fresh start. Not sure if that is what you did or not.


I'm figuring that what you are describing here is happening -- that is, the PhosGuard is not actually removing any diatoms which are clinging in the tank. However, I have noticed that there haven't been any new patches popping up, unless my mind and eyes are tricking me. I just didn't want to pull all the ornaments and plants out again to clean each item off as I did last time, because that was just so backbreaking -- so no, I didn't give everything a good cleaning before running the PhosGuard. However, I did pull out a couple of plants and rinse them off, removing the diatom patches, as a little test and so far none have returned...but it may be too early to tell. 



> Adding the water you mention would probably be okay. Probably just has things like magnesium and calcium added back in, which you and your fish need. Guessing it has been completely stripped of everything like RODI water and then stuff added back as RODI water is not the best to drink either because of the complete stripping. Topoff may be okay using it, but I wouldn't use 100% all the time for things like your water changes.


Thanks; well, I just am in desperate need of a tap water substitute if it is in fact my tap water causing the diatoms via silicates...

Are you sure this "Purified Drinking Water" with "added minerals" would be okay for the fish?


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

James0816 said:


> Diatoms happen. It's part of the game. No use fretting about it and spending countless $$$ trying to prevent it. Let them do their thing. Wipe them off when you see them. They will eventually fade away.


James,

My issues with this type of algae has been far from "part of the game" or normal -- they have not disappeared in more than three months, at least, and they come back each time I wipe them off the glass or rinse the decor under hot water to remove them (before I started using Seachem's PhosGuard). This had lead me to believe that my tap water is the source, and it must be loaded with silicates, which the diatoms feed on. THAT'S why I was advised to try PhosGuard, as it is supposed to remove phosphates and silicates -- not diatoms. That leads me to Susan's reply now...


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

susankat said:


> +1 with James
> Phosoguard and purigen aren't really for diatoms anyway. Phoso is used to remove excess phosphates and seachem is as you see is a water polisher that is for things suspended in the water column itself.


Susan,

I am not saying nor believing Purigen is for removing the diatoms -- I purchased that to intricately polish my water. PhosGuard, however, while not designed to remove diatom algae, is supposed to remove phosphates and SILICATES, which I was told the diatoms feed on in the water supply. If my tap water is loaded with silicates, it was believed (by other online advice and Seachem's tech support who I have been in contact with for several weeks now) that the PhosGuard could remove, or kill, the silicates thus eliminating the diatoms' food supply.


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## blue water (Nov 1, 2010)

ClinicaTerra said:


> Okay. As you all can recall, I have been dealing with an absolutely horrendous diatom outbreak in my 60 gallon fancy goldfish tank. The belief was that the silicates in my tap water may be to blame. Without testing my tap water, I dumped 200ml or so of Seachem's PhosGuard into "The Bag" (Seachem) media pouch and put that in my AquaClear 110 filter. I was told this should combat and kill the silicates in the water.
> 
> Weeks later, the diatoms persist. To be frank, they're not nearly as bad as they were -- and I don't see new ones popping up anywhere, so maybe the PhosGuard is doing something to the silicate supply. But, the diatoms are still on much of the ornaments and plants still, although a bit reduced in ferociousness and deep color...I cleaned them off a couple of the plants yet again, but then just got exhausted with it.
> 
> ...


 i have a 75 gal tank with plants and about 35 assorted fish.Make up water is from soft watrer system in house.My water has been fairly clear .but i've really never been totally with it's clarity.I 've also heard about purigen.So i bought some to try,it only cost about $13.00. Added it to the tank .First day no results.day 2,same thing.now on day 3 things started to look much better on day 4 the fish and plants actually looked like they were swimming with no water in the tank.I was really amazed.So you have to give it some time.I hope this info will help


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

blue water said:


> i have a 75 gal tank with plants and about 35 assorted fish.Make up water is from soft watrer system in house.My water has been fairly clear .but i've really never been totally with it's clarity.I 've also heard about purigen.So i bought some to try,it only cost about $13.00. Added it to the tank .First day no results.day 2,same thing.now on day 3 things started to look much better on day 4 the fish and plants actually looked like they were swimming with no water in the tank.I was really amazed.So you have to give it some time.I hope this info will help


Thank you very much for your input, Blue...

Ironically enough, I believe I am first now beginning to see real changes in the water these several days later...so, you are probably right about needing to wait, as you found yourself. JR also suggested this to me in an earlier post.

As of right now, the water isn't so pristine that it's transparent (the effect we're all after) but it's getting close. I will keep you updated; please remember to check in and glance at the thread!

Thanks for your input, once more. And thanks, JR.


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## BETTABOUTIQUE (Jan 16, 2011)

ClinicaTerra said:


> Okay. As you all can recall, I have been dealing with an absolutely horrendous diatom outbreak in my 60 gallon fancy goldfish tank. The belief was that the silicates in my tap water may be to blame. Without testing my tap water, I dumped 200ml or so of Seachem's PhosGuard into "The Bag" (Seachem) media pouch and put that in my AquaClear 110 filter. I was told this should combat and kill the silicates in the water.
> 
> Weeks later, the diatoms persist. To be frank, they're not nearly as bad as they were -- and I don't see new ones popping up anywhere, so maybe the PhosGuard is doing something to the silicate supply. But, the diatoms are still on much of the ornaments and plants still, although a bit reduced in ferociousness and deep color...I cleaned them off a couple of the plants yet again, but then just got exhausted with it.
> 
> ...


UV sterilizer works the best. We use it on all of our tanks when we have a diatom outbreak. Within twenty four hours or less our water is crystal clear. 

Melissa
owner of the Betta Boutique
htp://thebettaboutique.com


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

BETTABOUTIQUE said:


> UV sterilizer works the best. We use it on all of our tanks when we have a diatom outbreak. Within twenty four hours or less our water is crystal clear.
> 
> Melissa
> owner of the Betta Boutique
> htp://thebettaboutique.com


Hello, Melissa.

Thanks so much for the tip; would you recommend a UV sterilizer over Seachem's PhosGuard, which I'm running now? How do these work? Are they a chemical of some sort?


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

UV sterilizers are used to get rid of suspended algae like green water and such. It also helps in fighting some parasites.

They are a uv light that the water passes through the cylinder that holds the bulb. Bulbs are expensive and needs to replaced yearly.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

susankat said:


> UV sterilizers are used to get rid of suspended algae like green water and such. It also helps in fighting some parasites.
> 
> They are a uv light that the water passes through the cylinder that holds the bulb. Bulbs are expensive and needs to replaced yearly.


Oh, so this is a BULB of some sort, not a chemical?


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

Yes. Just google UV sterilizer and you can see pics of them


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

susankat said:


> Yes. Just google UV sterilizer and you can see pics of them


I will Susan, thanks, but do you know if these things actually get rid of diatoms? Or am I better off waiting to see if Seachem's PhosGuard works?


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

Personally I don't think they will as they would have to pass through the tube and diatoms won't. I would just wait and see.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Never worked for me. I have them on 3 of my tanks. You need one, let me know. I may getting rid of mine.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

susankat said:


> Personally I don't think they will as they would have to pass through the tube and diatoms won't. I would just wait and see.


It's just strange, because Betta seems to feel very passionate about it:



BETTABOUTIQUE said:


> UV sterilizer works the best. We use it on all of our tanks when we have a diatom outbreak. Within twenty four hours or less our water is crystal clear.
> 
> Melissa
> owner of the Betta Boutique
> htp://thebettaboutique.com


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

susankat said:


> I would just wait and see.


I think I will continue to do this, albeit with keeping the PhosGuard in the AquaClear filter...


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> Never worked for me. I have them on 3 of my tanks. You need one, let me know. I may getting rid of mine.


You mean the UV things we're talking about?

Also -- why do you have "...has no life..." under your user name?


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

ClinicaTerra said:


> You mean the UV things we're talking about?
> 
> Also -- why do you have "...has no life..." under your user name?


Yes, I have a UV sterilyzer on 3 of my tanks that I turned off not too long ago.

LOL, because I have no life. As much as I am on here.....


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> Yes, I have a UV sterilyzer on 3 of my tanks that I turned off not too long ago.


Are they really that useless? 



> LOL, because I have no life. As much as I am on here.....


Not a good thing to admit...and I'm sure that's not entirely accurate. :fish-in-bowl: :fish-in-a-bag:


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

UV sterilyzers are very useful, but the more I have read they are not the best for planted tanks.


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

There is a misconception that in planted tanks that the uv will take out the ferts you add, but it doesn't. 

They aren't useless, they will clear a green water tank in no time as green water is floating algae. Diatoms are not. I'm not sure whether it would clear out phosphates or silica because the light shouldn't have that much affect on it. They are also great at getting rid of ich parasites in the tank if you have an outbreak and if its a particular tough strain it will help get rid of it.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Guess I'll just stick with PhosGuard for now...Seachem tells me it won't exhaust that quickly anyway, and I can just leave it in the filter for now to wait out the diatom problem. Not sure how much of that is true, but...

Going to check on the water clarity situation...be back in a bit...:animated_fish_swimm


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Okay, well, received my order of a Marineland 48" flexible bubble wand to replace my POS Top Fin dual wands which stopped working and connected the airline tubing run from the Whisper air pump...the bubbles aren't all flowing yet, but unfortunately, I am back to square one with the WATER QUALITY because just when I thought the Purigen was maybe doing something -- BAM -- the oxygen from this new wand is creating such stir with the dual filters I'm running, the water again looks like there is "snow" falling inside the tank there's so much oxygenated bubble flow...

Now, where the tank looked like it was getting clearer with that "transparent" effect, the bubble wand is making it look murky due to the sheer movement of the fine bubbles mixing with the currents of the filters...*Mad**Mad**Mad**Mad**flaming*flaming


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