# My planted 75g Amazon tank



## Dmaaaaax

Well I guess I should actually post my build in the proper place and list the equipment, fish and plant stock. Hopefully the pictures are not too big, if so, I can reduce the sizes and re-post.

*Tank:*
Set up mid Feb
75g glass (48x22x18)
162w T5HO Current extreme lights (2x 10,00k and 1 freshwater pink)
10hr total photoperiod with 108w, 5hr with all 162w
CO2 paintball system with Red Sea reactor 500
Fluval 305
Rena XP3 (this filter is much better than a Fluval)
Homemade spraybar set midway down the tank
400w Hydro heater set to 84F
Green Monster 24w in-tank UV sterilizer
pH controller (monitors/turns off CO2)
Flourite gravel 

*Fish:*
12 Cardinal tetras (want 20)
1 German ram, female
12 Albino Orange Von rio Tetras
1 Angelfish 3"
1 Brown Discus 3"
1 Red Scorpion Melon Discus 2"
5 Sterbai Cory cats
3 Otoculnus cats
2 Siamese algae eaters
3 Nerite snails
~shrimp (red cherry, amano)

*Plants:*
Amazon Sword
Red Tiger Lotus
Dwarf Sags
Cryptocryne Wenditii (brown)
Java moss
Anubius nana
Riccia fluitans (on rock)
Java fern (regular, narrow) 
Windelov fern
Glossostigma elaninoides (not doing so hot)
Limnophila aromatica
Sagittaria subulata
Crypt spiralis
Rotala indica
...more to come, forget the names 


March









April


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## comler

Wow! That's sweet! I want a bigger tank... Thanks for sharing.


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## aspects

Lol @ "this filter is better then a fluval" hahahahah. Good one.



Nice tank man. The scape and lighting looks good.


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## Dmaaaaax

Here is a picture of my lonely emperor tetra:









Here is one of the SAE, he is about 3" long and is none stop. He cleans the tank, the plants, chases the fish, attacks worms,...etc.


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## petlover516

with the pics u just showed, it looks like the wild almost. adding lots of plants and fish from the same area do wonders for making a tank look really realistic. btw-what happened to the peacock gudgeons and the other emp tets.


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## Dmaaaaax

petlover516 said:


> with the pics u just showed, it looks like the wild almost. adding lots of plants and fish from the same area do wonders for making a tank look really realistic. btw-what happened to the peacock gudgeons and the other emp tets.


The peacock is still in there somewhere. He loves to sit on the bottom and hides in the sags. The other 2 emperors: 1 died, the other was too aggressive/territorial and was returned to my LFS.


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## petlover516

wasn't there 2 PG's


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## Dmaaaaax

Posted these in the Discus area but never added them to my tank thread...enjoy:

2" baby red melon scorpion discus, just starting to get some blue









3" wild caught brown discus









The 2 swimming together. Notice the angelfish fins behind the driftwood?


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## Dmaaaaax

I just edited the first post comparing the plant growth from March to April. Quite stunning, looking back a month. 

Some of the plants have really taken off like the dwarf sags, and the Limnophila aromatica. However the red plants in the back left corner continue to melt, and my lotus had to be trimmed down to the bulb and re-planted. The java ferns show little signs of growth but are considered slow growers.

Here is a close up of the Dwarf sags in the front left conner with some amano shrimp:









I also found some cool looking "albino" orange von rio tetras. They do not have the black bands like the regular von rios. I added 6 to my tank:


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## petlover516

nice!


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## Dirty_Pond

Dmaaaaax,

This is awesome. Now I have a standard set for my tank. 

Is that real driftwood in there?

Also if you don't mind can you show a drawing of you setup on how the whole sytem is put together.


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## paronaram

Dmaaaaax, how do you "fight" the algae?
Do you use tap water? or it's filtered RO etc... 

Thanks
Aram


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## Dmaaaaax

paronaram said:


> Dmaaaaax, how do you "fight" the algae?
> Do you use tap water? or it's filtered RO etc...
> 
> Thanks
> Aram


I still us just tap unlike a lot of high tech planted tanks. The key to algae control is to know what your tap has in it and to keep that in mind when trying to balance the 3 key elements for a high tech tank: 

1.) Lights (photoperiod, wpg, bulb type)
2.) CO2
3.) Nutrients (Macro, micro)

Even then, you have to be able to see signs in your plants like growth, dying, melting, and when to trim....and adjust your nutrients accordingly. Lights are the number one factor in algae control. If you increase your lights, you need to increase your CO2 and nutrients or you will get algae. My tap water has phosphates, my fish produce nitrates, so I basically just need to add Potassium for macros. For micros, I use Flourish from Seachem and chelated iron.

If plants are healthy then most algae does not stand a chance. You will always have some algae, this is normal, but leaves can be pruned, and algae eaters can keep it under control (SAE, shrimp, snails, bristlenose, banjo). And yes the ocassional scaping of the glass does happen.

My low tech tank is algae free, and that consists of just watching the lighting and doing regular water changes. No chemicals added here, however, it only has low-medium light requiring plants.


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## paronaram

Thanks for reply.

Do you use compressed tank CO2 or DIY
And what type of gravel is that? Do you use layers of garden soil?
Also UV sterilizer, what is it kills (sterilize)?

Sorry for so many questions I just want to understand what I will need, when I am ready to switch to the new 55Gal tank.


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## Dmaaaaax

paronaram said:


> Thanks for reply.
> 
> Do you use compressed tank CO2 or DIY
> And what type of gravel is that? Do you use layers of garden soil?
> Also UV sterilizer, what is it kills (sterilize)?
> 
> Sorry for so many questions I just want to understand what I will need, when I am ready to switch to the new 55Gal tank.



I use 20Oz paintball tanks for CO2. They are pumped into the tank with a needle wheel pump. DIY are great for smaller tanks (~30g), but if you try to put them lower into the water, the pressure slows down the bubbling. For substrate I use flourite and flourite black from Seachem. If I had to do it again, I would mix it with some larger gravel so that it stays aerated better. Here is a picture of my paintball setup now:









...and here is a simplier setup when it was in my 29g. This setup should be ok for a 55g. You see the tank, the regulator, the bubble counter, the needle valve (to control speed), and in the tank is the reactor, to diffuse the gas into the water.









Here was my over-planted 29g with CO2. Look how small my angel fish was!!









UV sterilizers are used to get rid of green water. This is the floating algae that makes your water green but does not grow on stuff. This can also be removed with micron filters. UV sterilizers can also kill certain bacteria and parasites that can harm fish. The key to both is that you need a high wattage UV bulb and a relatively low speed water flow through it so that it has enough time to kill.


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## paronaram

Thanks for the pictures. Very nice!

Can you please tell me why do you need solenoid right after CO2 regulator? and one on the water filter line?
Do you shut the CO2 injection at night?

I see that you have your fish tank facing directly to the window, I think if you move it from direct sunlight, you can elemenate that UV sterilizers.
Sometime ago I use to have a tank facing window, about 10- 15' away, plants was nice and green, no CO2, nothing!!! Just WC, and air stone ... I had so much plants that I was pulling them out and trowing it to the trash.
But my problem that time was green long algae! It was so many that fish was getting caught in it ... and time to time water was turning green. All that was gone, as soon as I move my tank away from sunlight, but then plant's was not as green 


With current 7 Gal tank I have different type of algae, it's more like an dark green ink on the limestone on the gravel, and looks like a velvet on the big leaves and some parts of java moss. It must be a light or lack of CO2...
Because fish feels fine, all 8 in good shape and breading like crazy (fancy guppy and corydoras).


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## Dmaaaaax

I have a solenoid valve hooked up to a pH controller that is hooked up to a timer. If the pH drops below 6.0 the CO2 is turned off. It is also turned off at night. You can leave it on at night but then I would not have it as strong as I have it now. The reason is at night your plants acutally give off CO2 and use oxygen. So pumping too much CO2 at night could drop the pH more and deplete the oxygen. 

Although my tank is by the window it never gets direct sunlight. The house leave a 10ft shade in front of that window all day, and on top of that there is a screened in porch. I also have blinds in front of the window that are closed most of the time. I use the UV mostly to make sure my fish never get sick, it also controls green water, but it cannot stop any of the hair or spot algae. Fortunately I do not have any hair algae at all, just the normal spot algae that likes to grow on shade loving plants that grow slow. This type of algae is normal in most tanks.


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## paronaram

Dmaaaaax, what controls the level of pH? So when it drops below 6.0 it triggers the solenoid to shut the CO2, or its manual…

Can you please give me some ideas about gravel? I am not sure about your 75Gal tank, but in 55Gal I see you have multiple layers.


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## Dmaaaaax

I have a pH probe in the water that tests the pH. It is hooked up to a controller that shuts off at a specific low and high pH that you can set. As you add CO2 to your tank your pH naturally goes down. If it goes below 6.0 my controller shuts off which shuts off the solenoid to the CO2.

For gravel in my old 29g tank I was using a thin bottom layer of cat litter (pure clay, no scents..Petco brand) and dirt (soil not potting soil or manure) 1" or so, then held it down with sand, and the top layer was just gravel. In my 75g tank it is 100% Flourite from Seachem. This substrate is clay based and is high in iron.


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## paronaram

So basically for CO2 control you have something like this:












What if I have always low (~6.3 pH API drop tester) it goes up around 6.9 - 7.1 after WC, but in day or two it drops back to 6.3.
I don't want to add any pH UP, all I add is some broken coral in the filter, and rock (looks like lava rock, but it's white). In this case I can't add any Co2 until pH problem is resolved right?


In what tank you like plant growing process more? in 55Gal multilayer gravel or 75Gal w/ Seachem extract


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## Dmaaaaax

Yeah that is basically my setup except that everything is different...lol. My controller is from:









My basic paintball setup:









Find out why your pH drops. What is your kH and GH (carbonate and general hardness)? If these are real low your pH can fluctuate pretty fast. I shoot for 3-4 for both. 

What other things are in your water that could lower your pH? Peat, driftwood etc. I know exactly what pH I shoot for with every water change. I add acid buffer and akaline buffer from Seachem. I shoot for a pH of 7.0 and let the CO2 bring it down to about 6.2. The buffer also raises the kH to ~3-4.


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## Dirty_Pond

How much CO2 do you release?

Can CO2 coming out of aquarium become in issue for the room environment?


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## Dirty_Pond

Are you usin 2 filters
Rena and the Fluval?

And If you don't mind how much money did you spend? I start pricing all the equipment and its coming to be around 700-800 smackers.


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## paronaram

Dirty_Pond said:


> Are you usin 2 filters
> Rena and the Fluval?
> 
> And If you don't mind how much money did you spend? I start pricing all the equipment and its coming to be around 700-800 smackers.


Dirty Pond, 

I don't think this hobby was ever cheep!!! 
Unless you setup used tank from CraigsList with 5 Gambusia 
Maybe then it will cheep ...

I have 7 gal tank fresh water, with blooming algae all over 4 life plants and 6 fish and 2 shrimp. Let me tell you, I may spend $300+ already. So for awesome setup like this, I may take a loan


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## paronaram

I will try to post some pictures for you to better see what I am talking about, but for now;
in the water I have limestone about 3lb (long rectangular) also I have that white lava rock (temporary) just to see if it can bring pH a little up. I also have L shape drift wood. I local PETCO was called Malaysian drift wood. I treated that wood, applied some java moss, and now it's in the tank. My problem is color, moss grow very good, but it's not bright green! It gets nice color green on the fresh "leafs" and then, it gets darker and in some cases covered with very dark algae. Shrimps seems to like that algae very much, but I may need 700 of that shrimp to clean all that mess 
Gravel - I have no idea what I have, sorry. It came with tank, like a kit. looks natural to me. I will take some pictures later this afternoon to show you gravel sample
I will love to use some "buffer" to stabilize pH but I have no CO2 yet, although I have a DIY setup and never start using it.
So far I ordered Flourish Excel from Seachem. Was doing some reading about this product see what happens


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## Dmaaaaax

Dirty_Pond said:


> Are you usin 2 filters
> Rena and the Fluval?
> 
> And If you don't mind how much money did you spend? I start pricing all the equipment and its coming to be around 700-800 smackers.



Yes, I am using both filters. For just equipment, tank, stand I belive it was ~$700. This is shopping around for the best prices on eBay and online stores. The only local purchase was my tank and stand which I got on sale. The pH controller was a Christmas present, but I included that price above. 

Keep in mind most people don't buy it all at once. I started with a small 29g tank, DIY CO2, cat litter substrate, a filter, chemicals, and plants. Then I upgraded to the paintball CO2. Then I upgraded to a 75g tank w/stand and new substrate. Then I add a pH controller (not really necessary) and a second filter....I guess that's what makes it a hobby?

Same goes with any collection/hobby. I also collect movies. I buy 1-2 Blu-ray movies a month. Overall not bad, but if you add up my total....ouch. 

As far as CO2 you add little by little and watch both your fish and plants. Your plants use up most of the CO2 each day, and at night it is off. It should not affect your room at all.


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## Dmaaaaax

Excel is a great carbon alternative and it actually gets rid of some algae. However, I find that Java moss does not care for it much. It does not die, but it stunts it's growth.


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## paronaram

Dmaaaaax said:


> Excel is a great carbon alternative and it actually gets rid of some algae. However, I find that Java moss does not care for it much. It does not die, but it stunts it's growth.


Can I use Excel with DIY CO2?
Well, if Excel stunts java moss, I will stop using it, and I will leave CO2 only.
When I was setting up DIY CO2, I notes that I don't have good quality valve to control the amount. Can you recommend good valve?
I have valves for air, but they are all crappy, very difficult to adjust the air flow.
I have Lee's plastic valves and one set from PETCO blue in color and no brand name. I mean for air stone it looks fine, but for CO2 I think I may need something better. I've seen Micro Air Valve Barb or AquaMedic Regulation Valve, 1/4" (6mm). Last one is $5 each.


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## paronaram

Dmaaaaax said:


> Yeah that is basically my setup except that everything is different...lol. My controller is from:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My basic paintball setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find out why your pH drops. What is your kH and GH (carbonate and general hardness)? If these are real low your pH can fluctuate pretty fast. I shoot for 3-4 for both.
> 
> What other things are in your water that could lower your pH? Peat, driftwood etc. I know exactly what pH I shoot for with every water change. I add acid buffer and akaline buffer from Seachem. I shoot for a pH of 7.0 and let the CO2 bring it down to about 6.2. The buffer also raises the kH to ~3-4.


Sorry, a little late to take any pictures, but I did measure the water, and here what I have:
NH3/NH4 - 0 ppm
KH - 2 - 35.8ppm
GH - 5 - 89.5ppm
pH - 7.0 (now this is new, I never had 7.0 in my tank, so white "lava" rock did bring the pH up)

Can you please explain how to create a buffer?
Thanks.


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## Dmaaaaax

You can use Excel with CO2. 

For DiY CO2 you don't want to control it with a valve. You run the risk of accidentally closing it and having too much pressure build up in your bottle and something blowing. An alternative to this is to place your bubbler at a specific depth in your tank. If you don't get enough bubbles place it higher. If you get too much place it lower. The depth adds pressure naturally to the tube. Another alternative, is to adjust your surface tension. If you have too much CO2 add more surface movement. Keep in mind that at night you cannot turn off a DiY so you need to keep an eye out on the pH and possibly adjust your surface movement each night and morning (more at night, less during the day).

Your kH is pretty low. This is one of the reasons you get pH swings within a day or 2 of adding new water. I am going to guess that your GH was also around 2 until you added the coral and was the other reason. You can test your tap to see what your GH was. The higher GH has been helping you to keep your pH stable and this is the buffer. To raise your kH some you can add Sodium bicarbonate (Baking soda).

The buffers I was referring to was Seachem's acid buffer and akaline buffer. In combination you can get to a specific pH. They essentially raise your kH and GH similar to what you did and keeps your pH from bouncing. You get to the exact target pH by changing the ratio of acid to akaline. The akaline buffer is essentially sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and a few other bicarbonates.


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## paronaram

Dmaaaaax said:


> You can use Excel with CO2.
> 
> For DiY CO2 you don't want to control it with a valve. You run the risk of accidentally closing it and having too much pressure build up in your bottle and something blowing. An alternative to this is to place your bubbler at a specific depth in your tank. If you don't get enough bubbles place it higher. If you get too much place it lower. The depth adds pressure naturally to the tube. Another alternative, is to adjust your surface tension. If you have too much CO2 add more surface movement. Keep in mind that at night you cannot turn off a DiY so you need to keep an eye out on the pH and possibly adjust your surface movement each night and morning (more at night, less during the day).
> 
> Your kH is pretty low. This is one of the reasons you get pH swings within a day or 2 of adding new water. I am going to guess that your GH was also around 2 until you added the coral and was the other reason. You can test your tap to see what your GH was. The higher GH has been helping you to keep your pH stable and this is the buffer. To raise your kH some you can add Sodium bicarbonate (Baking soda).
> 
> The buffers I was referring to was Seachem's acid buffer and akaline buffer. In combination you can get to a specific pH. They essentially raise your kH and GH similar to what you did and keeps your pH from bouncing. You get to the exact target pH by changing the ratio of acid to akaline. The akaline buffer is essentially sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and a few other bicarbonates.


So with DIY CO2 you don't count bubbles? And if you do, what will be the dosage for 7 Gal tank with Compact Fluorescent Bulb 15W.
I don't think that surface tension idea will work in 7 Gal aquarium... If I install any power head, even the smallest one, it will turn my tank upside down (I am talking about stream).
I have a water surface tension from Tetra Wisper, when filter media is new I get very good water surface move.
I will try to start the DIY CO2, and see how it will effect...

To bring the kH UP using Baking soda - how much I will need to add to bring 2-3 points up?

Thanks!


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## Dmaaaaax

Sorry I was out all weekend.

For a 7g I would not worry about CO2. Just add a bit of Excel and do weekly water changes. Even a DiY might be too much CO2. You could add a second line (Y-splitter) and just disappate some of the CO2 into the air if you decide to try DiY and get too many bubbles.

For kH try adding 1/8tsp to a 5g bucket and test it before and after. Adjust this to the amount of water you change weekly.


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## paronaram

Thanks!

I will try to increase kH this afternoon and monitor for day or two.
And Excel adding I was planing to do on Monday ...
Dmaaaaax, I have a question about filter for my 7G tank.
Currently I have Tetra Whisper Medium. I can't complain about performance of this filter, it runs extremely silent, good water flow ... But media get's dirty very fast, I clean as much as I can, without cleaning out bacteria much, but past 2-3 weeks and water flow slows, and I see some small particles are swimming around the tank, and it means - time to change the media. I don't mind doing that, but that media is $7-8 3pack (I think it's expensive!) (and I don't mid spending $300+ on CO2 setup, but that type of media need to be allot cheaper IMO) 
Is there any better external filter that I can use? Maybe more expensive, but better in filtration and media less expensive.


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## Dmaaaaax

Look at the Rena HOB or Aquaclear HOB. Both these have sponge filters and porcelin blocks or can be adapted to fit them. This means you can take out the sponge filter, wash it under the sink and squeeze it clean. Then re-use it several times. Carbon can be taken out or put in as needed....not part of the filter.

The porcelin blocks are for your bacteria cultures much like what you see in canister filters. This also gives you the option to add extra filtration like a "fine filter floss" that you can buy in bulk and tear off and use as needed.


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## paronaram

Aquatic products

or

Rena Smartfilter 30

Rena, I think will need more room. And it's no go on my 7G
Does Rena have a website? All searches comes to Aquarium gear distributors


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## Dmaaaaax

Hagen makes Aquaclear and API makes Rena, but their website does not mention them at all. There is a Rena 20 which is a bit small and all of them can be adjust for waterflow in, but this may strain the impeller some or cause more noise?

BTW Petco and or Petsmart sells the Rena ones for sure, so if you want a closer look go there and open a box.


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## Dirty_Pond

Dmaaaaaax,

So how come you arre using two filters?
Second is the 400w Hydro heater an undergravel heater?

Another question: Is the sudstrate only the flourite gravel (and how deep). It looks like there is just plain type of gravel. The color looks different then all the flourite gravel i have seen.

Sorry if the questions seem basic. I have decided to use your aquarium as the model for my aquarium. and lot of this is new to me. I am just getting overwhelmed by all the stuff out there.

thanks


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## paronaram

Did the major reorganizing in the tank, cleaned the walls, upgrade the filter to AquaClear. From SeaChem: Prime (1/2 ml to 4G) and Excel (2ml to 4G) and as per your recommendation very little baking soda to bring kH up. And here is the result:
NH3/NH4 - 0 ppm
kH - 3 - 35.8ppm > I think it's more 4
gH - 4 - 71.6ppm
pH - 7.1
T - 75°

Will see how the algae will do ... 
Can I add CO2 now? Or I should wait and see how Excel will work first

PS Man, that Excel smells ... but it's manageable


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## Dmaaaaax

Dirty_Pond said:


> Dmaaaaaax,
> 
> So how come you arre using two filters?
> Second is the 400w Hydro heater an undergravel heater?
> 
> Another question: Is the sudstrate only the flourite gravel (and how deep). It looks like there is just plain type of gravel. The color looks different then all the flourite gravel i have seen.
> 
> Sorry if the questions seem basic. I have decided to use your aquarium as the model for my aquarium. and lot of this is new to me. I am just getting overwhelmed by all the stuff out there.
> 
> thanks


I use 2 filters for better circulation and cleaning. Even though each one is "rated" for my size tank or larger, the fact is that you actually want a certain amount of flow per gallon in a planted tank (7-10 x your tank in gallons). Mine is 75 x 7 = 525gph minimum and keep in mind that most filters are rated higher than they actually run once media is added to them. On top of this I have a UV sterilizer that moves some water and a mini koralia pump for more water flow.

My heater is not in the gravel It is in the middle of my tank on the back glass. My substrate consists of Flourite and Flourite black, no gravel. It goes from about 3" to 6" towards the back corner. Good luck with your tank and I would love to see pictures as you go.


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## paronaram

Dmaaaax I think my chemistry experiment causing some negative effect on my fancy guppys. They developed some type of white (looks like small piece of coral) fungus on the bottom of their mouth. Two of them stop eating (both are female), but they are still active ...
The only things was added to the water is baking soda (1/8 of tsp on 4Gal)
and Excel 2ml on 4Gal recommended in the bottle for initial setup

Any idea?

Thanks


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## Billythefish

Ive never been a big fan of planted tanks........ I AM NOW... AWSOM!


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## Dirty_Pond

Dmaaaaax said:


> I use 2 filters for better circulation and cleaning. Even though each one is "rated" for my size tank or larger, the fact is that you actually want a certain amount of flow per gallon in a planted tank (7-10 x your tank in gallons). Mine is 75 x 7 = 525gph minimum and keep in mind that most filters are rated higher than they actually run once media is added to them. On top of this I have a UV sterilizer that moves some water and a mini koralia pump for more water flow.


That makes sense. But why not two filters of same kind. Two renas or two fluval. That way the expense of filters and maintence would be better.



Dmaaaaax said:


> My heater is not in the gravel It is in the middle of my tank on the back glass. My substrate consists of Flourite and Flourite black, no gravel. It goes from about 3" to 6" towards the back corner. Good luck with your tank and I would love to see pictures as you go.


I'll keep all updated. I'll be posting pics of my empty tank soon.


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## Dmaaaaax

paronaram said:


> Dmaaaax I think my chemistry experiment causing some negative effect on my fancy guppys. They developed some type of white (looks like small piece of coral) fungus on the bottom of their mouth. Two of them stop eating (both are female), but they are still active ...
> The only things was added to the water is baking soda (1/8 of tsp on 4Gal)
> and Excel 2ml on 4Gal recommended in the bottle for initial setup
> 
> Any idea?
> 
> Thanks


Sounds like coincedence or bad luck. Check your pH to see if it was affected at all. I can't see how a small change in kH could cause this. Make sure you are not adding baking power? Baking soda should just be 100% Sodium Bicarbonate.

Check the color of the "fungus". There are 2 types of mouth fungus, one is a fungus and the other is bacterial. Melafix and Pimafix are good for planted tanks.


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## Dmaaaaax

Dirty_Pond said:


> That makes sense. But why not two filters of same kind. Two renas or two fluval. That way the expense of filters and maintence would be better.


I started with the Fluval and did not care for it too much so I decided to try the Rena. If I had to do it over again, I would have 2 Renas. 

As far as expense though, I just use the same biomedia for both, and reuse the filter pads for the Rena. For the Fluval, I use filterfloss that I cut to size, since the Fluval pads are not fine enough for me.


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## Dmaaaaax

Billythefish said:


> Ive never been a big fan of planted tanks........ I AM NOW... AWSOM!


Thanks for the complement!


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## paronaram

Dmaaaaax said:


> Sounds like coincedence or bad luck. Check your pH to see if it was affected at all. I can't see how a small change in kH could cause this. Make sure you are not adding baking power? Baking soda should just be 100% Sodium Bicarbonate.
> 
> Check the color of the "fungus". There are 2 types of mouth fungus, one is a fungus and the other is bacterial. Melafix and Pimafix are good for planted tanks.



All fish is fine right now ... All I did 30% WC (primed water), half a table spoon of aquarium salt, and raised temp to 80°.48 hours later, all gone. I have no idea what it was. But definitely was something because fish was not eating brine shrimp and had something on the bottom part of the head /mouth.

Sodium was regular (normal) not baking powder 

Here is water conditions:
NH3/NH4 - 0 ppm
kH - 3 - 35.8ppm
gH - 6 - 107.4ppm (went UP)
pH - 7.1
T - 77°


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## paronaram

Question about Excel.
I did some reading and all sources are talking about benefits of using it etc.
But no one is talking about dosage. I am doing the way that SeaChem is explaining on the bottle and website ...
But I think it's a little too much.
You did used it in your old tank right? any recommendations on 7 Gal?

Thanks


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## Dmaaaaax

You can use it at the dose indicated on the bottle with no problems. Use 1ml per 10 gallons. If you have an algae problem you can double or even triple the dose safely. To dose 1ml go to a pharmacy and look for baby medicine. They usually have a 1-2ml plastic syringe around that area.

I dose every other day.


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## MediaHound

Looking good!


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## iz513

thats awesome


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## paronaram

Hey Dmaaaaax,

Any picture updates? 

Thanks


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## phil_pl

all i can say is great job Dmaaaaax this tank is sweet, you've done with freshwater what i was trying to do when i switched to salt, i just wanted everything to be alive and you have done that. i love this tank, keep the pics coming


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## Dirty_Pond

Hey Dmaaaaax,

A few quick quick question.
1.) How much flourite (bags) did you use?
2.) Which type (seachem has many different tyes listed)
3.) Did you mix black and red to get the color you have?

And now a request:

Any new pictures of your aquarium. I like to see how it looks now after a few months.


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## Dmaaaaax

Dirty_Pond said:


> Hey Dmaaaaax,
> 
> A few quick quick question.
> 1.) How much flourite (bags) did you use?
> 2.) Which type (seachem has many different tyes listed)
> 3.) Did you mix black and red to get the color you have?
> 
> And now a request:
> 
> Any new pictures of your aquarium. I like to see how it looks now after a few months.


I used regular Flourite gravel 2-3, Flourite black 2-3, and a bag of Onyx black sand. I got them online from Dr.Foster and Smith since they did not charge extra based on weight.

I have a few new pictures that I hope to upload sometime this week. We were on vacation, and so the tank suffered a bit. I did a heavy trim, and got it back on it's weekly cycle. The tank now has 4 Discus doing pretty well together, but we had to get rid of the angelfish who was too big and territorial. Had we gotten a smaller one now, it would probably be fine.

The worst thing is that in the summer time it looks like our city adjusts/treats the water by adding more phosphates. I am reading almost 1ppm, which seems to favor the brown algae and green dust algae (the one that likes growing on the glass).


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## Shotgun

WOW! what a beautiful tank you have there.


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## SSIDAO

Really nice! Congratulations.
But I should say, 4 Discus are not so recommended, they must live in groups, at least 8 of them....

But is absolutly a great aquarium...


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## phil_pl

can we get some updated pictures?


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## Dmaaaaax

Ok. I got back from our weekend vacation energized and uploaded some pictures. The first 2 show the difference from when the plants started to take over after a long vacation and neglect, to where I did some serious pruning to try and get them back to a managable level. When the plants grow too much they can affect the nutrient levels, water flow, and light parameters. 

June (prior to pruning):









July (following some pruning, still needs more):









BTW my amazon sword sprouted another amazon to the far right of the tank. This might have to come out sometime. My crypts continue to sprout, as does the chain swords that get removed every week. As I mentioned earlier, the angel fish was removed, and having 4 discus seems to be fine with all the plant to hide in...although I plan to add more if/when one catches my eye/wallet.


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## Dmaaaaax

I think it is mentioned earlier, but I dose with:

Water changes:
Equilibrium (for hardness)
Acid and Akaline buffer (for pH and carbonate hardness)
CSM+B (dry powder with metals: iron, magnesium, boron...etc)
K2SO4 (for potassium)

Every other day or so:
K2SO4
chelated iron
Flourish complete
Flourish Excel

I find that I can't add KNO3 (potassium nitrate) due to my nitrate levels and phosphates due to my city water having high phosphates already. :-(


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## Dmaaaaax

Here is a picture of my newest guy. He is a variation of Pigeon Blood:


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## Dmaaaaax

And here are the 4 of them swimming together. Have you noticed that my SAE must be in every single picture!! You can also see a few Sterbai Corycats, and cardinals:


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## jrodriguez

very nice setup...are those swords in the middle...THEY'RE HUGE!!!


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## rglens

All I can say is...wow! Amazing.


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## Dmaaaaax

jrodriguez said:


> very nice setup...are those swords in the middle...THEY'RE HUGE!!!


Yeah that is just 1 sword plant in the picture above. It had an off-shoot that is to the far right of the tank and about 1/4 the size right now.


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## Dmaaaaax

A few good shots of the discus:
My wild caught brown...about 5":









My Blue Diamond...about 4":









My Golden discus...about 4":









and my little Pigeon blood...about 3":


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## little dutch

wow, nice discus! always wanted to get some of those. Very cool tank.


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## paronaram

Hey Dmaaaax,

Awesome fish you have there!
On one of your pictures I see that you have SAE or it's a Flying Fox?
Do they bother any other fish?

My LFS (networked) got 6 of them last week, and I got one pair ... after 48 hours I end up separating one of the Flying Fox, because I think he killed one of my Black Corys ... Extremely fast fish ... And it bothers all fish in the tank

I think for more I will have to start new thread

Thanks.


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## Dmaaaaax

It is a true SAE....not flying fox. I currently have 2 in the tank. One is about 4" and one is 5". They don't mess with the fish but they can swim around fast during feeding and this sometimes upsets the Discus. The flying fox will definately chase other fish while the SAE usually don't. If you need help figuring out difference between the 2 let me know.

The easiest thing to check is the black line is not as jagged and goes through the tail and they have barbs on their mouth. I drop them some flakes first, then give the discus blackworms and that seems to work out pretty well during feeding.


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## paronaram

Thanks Dmaaaax,

Please check my post in: Freshwater Fish Species

Thanks
Aram


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## lebguy

haven't posted anything in a long time and this looked like a cool one to pick...and i was right. nice setup you got there


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## garfreak526

I love how yor tank looks. are those real or plastic plants? It looks great!


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## Dmaaaaax

garfreak526 said:


> I love how yor tank looks. are those real or plastic plants? It looks great!


LOL....100% real plants!


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## Dmaaaaax

Finally getting around to posting some new pictures

I have a few floating plants to help with nitrate/phosphate removal, but those long stalks you see are coming from my amazon swords. Each sword is shooting 3-4 stalks out of the tank and each stock has about 4-5 new amazon swords!









Everything is growing like crazy with ~1.5wpg. I have the trimmings down to once a week, and everything is growing in more bushy. I have had to slowly increase my nutrients, and my Tiger lotus has come back from 2 seperate location after being gone for about 3 months.


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## Dmaaaaax

Just one more picture for now...Close up of the 4 ready for feeding time. They are all about 4" in diameter or more now, and doing great!


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## petlover516

Wow! Your tank looks better with each photo


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## Dmaaaaax

Thank you! It definately changes from month to month, as does the size and color of the fish, but I think I finally have all my parameters set and my weekly routine down.


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## Fozz

Just curious. But I was told by my local shop that I could not put Tetra's and Discus in the same tank. They said the temperature requirements were too different. 

I take it this isn't necessarily true?


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## petlover516

No i dont think thats true-just about every member on this forum who has discus have tetras in their tank, too. but only certain tetras can survive with discus.


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## Dmaaaaax

Tetras and Discus are both originally from the Amazon. The prefer the same conditions. Tropical, soft acidic water.


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## baileyjane

Wow, your tank is breathtakingly beautiful!


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## spawn

awesome planted aquarium...


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## communitywater

This is one of the most beautiful aquariums ever. Very impressive work.


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## Guy

Awesome aquascape. Outstanding pics. Thank you for sharing.


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## Dmaaaaax

Thank you all for looking and leaving comments!


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## Dmaaaaax

Adding a few more pics of the Discus as the grow bigger and more colorful:


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## petlover516

nice! i'd really like a tank set-up like that one day, except maybe even more biotope-amazon flooded river, amazon acid pool, or amazon downriver


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## Dmaaaaax

My other 2 Discus:

Notice a cardinal tetra in the lower left corner.


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## Sweet Tee

Great pics! Love the discus.


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## archer772

Your tank looks really nice D


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## Dmaaaaax

I found Discus eggs the other day. Two of them (the brown and pigeon blood) are guarding the leaf of the Amazon sword plant very closely. I will have to take a few photos and post them soon!


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## Dmaaaaax

Ok, snapped a picture of the eggs:


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## Guy

Do the Discus eat while they are guarding eggs?

If you don't mind, where did the Yellow Discus come from? My wife has finally shown an interest and I would like to encourage it.


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## Assassynation

How long til they hatch?


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## Dmaaaaax

I got 2 new disus in Feb. One is a red turquoise, the other is a peach tiger striped guy. I can't wait to see what he ends up looking like as he grows up.

Here are 2 new guys I got in Feb:









Here is the red turquoise:









Here is the pale tiger striped guy:









Here is a somewhat blurry group shot:


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## petlover516

is the pale new guy an albino? his eyes are a lot brighter red than the rest of the group.


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## Dmaaaaax

Time will tell. They tend to change soo much from juvenille to adult. He could stay peach, turn orange or yellow, or be a pigeon blood mix?


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## Dmaaaaax

Well, I am a little late with this but earlier in the week I had 2 pairs of discus breeding and each female seems to have a helpful mate. Not only are they laying eggs, but the first pair had LIVE babies all huddled in the back left corner of my tank (~40)! 

The pairs were:

Wild caught brown discus
Pigeon blood

Blue cobalt discus
Solid Orange discus.....this would make an interesting offspring? 

Here were the pictures I took on Tues:









...and the proud parents. Behind them are the egg casings and some un-hatched eggs. The normally light brown discus is almost a dark purplish brown from guarding the eggs:


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## Dmaaaaax

Well it looks like all the babies are missing. I do have a floating breeder ready in case the second pair's eggs hatch, or I find some babies around some plants/gravel. My guess would be the filter or the algae eater.


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## Assassynation

Did you find them?


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## Dmaaaaax

Nope they were all gone, but it looks like my Discus are mating again. They keep making eggs, but that was the only newborns I have seen thus far. I will have to post more pictures soon. My 2 newer discus are starting to show more "colors".


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## Gui101do

I am really enjoying the pictures of your tank and the story that is unfolding about your Discus & their possible offspring. Please continue to update and post images!


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## Painted Turtle

Dmaaaaax, That is absolutely AWESOME !!! Good God, the effort in the tank alone is award winning ! Let alone the fish ! Just bitchin' !!! I haven't seen care in fish choice and plant life like that in E O N S !! excellent work, want to do my painted turtles environment..? HAHA !


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## Dmaaaaax

Thanks for all the recent comments. 

The discus continue to lay eggs and ocassionally hatch fish. I tried putting them in a floating fry container, but they all seem to die in there. I will have to get rid of my angelfish and dedicate the 20g to fry if I can find a good sponge filter and some fry food.


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## Gui101do

So you think the Angelfish is devouring the fry even under the watchful eyes of the parent Discus?


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## fishrule

I just started my own 75 gallon tank but its not as nice as yours. I am slowly coming along though. I really like the pictures of your tank. Check out mine if you get a chance!


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## Big Dog

Just got done going through your pictures. Sweet looking planted aquarium.


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## Dmaaaaax

Thanks all. I need to put some updated pictures on!

The angel is not in the same tank as my Discus any more, it is in my 20g tank originally set up for medication or babies. I think the algae eater or other discus ate the eggs.


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## sivakv

Guess too much information for me to understand. Guess there is lots for me to learn.

Thanks for sharing so much. I as still in grasping mode, hence will look forward to others asking more questions 

Thanks
Siva


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## caffeinefix

beautiful tank and awesome set-up... be proud!


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## Dmaaaaax

Thanks all. My plants were overgrown and taking over last month. I took a shot before I went in and removed both Amazon swords and moved things around. I will try to post an "after" photo in a few weeks once they get back on track.

Aug 2010:


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## Mr_Pat

How often do you have to refill the CO2 ?? just curious.. I've been looking for the components for a CO2 system for my tank setup once we get a house i can do it in < hopefully this coming spring>


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## caffeinefix

A little tip... Your LFS should sell CO2 Pumps for around $100... Newer technology that should make regular tank systems obsolete


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## jrman83

caffeinefix said:


> A little tip... Your LFS should sell CO2 Pumps for around $100... Newer technology that should make regular tank systems obsolete


Care to ellaborate?


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## Mr_Pat

LFS around here honestly dont have much in the way of newer technology. I end up buying most stuff online. Shops around here are good for fish, tanks, sometimes substrate and used filters Hence looking at craigslist for Co2 systems


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## caffeinefix

It looks like a regular air pump, but somehow separates CO2... TBH, I really don't know much more than the sales guy raved about them...


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## Mr_Pat

Hmm Thanks for the info .. ill have to look into it


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## J-Pond

I just read throught this thread, and was in awe of the pictures.
Dmaaaaax, you have done an incredible job on this tank, please keep the updates comming.


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## Dmaaaaax

Thanks all....The CO2 tank I use is a paint ball tank (I have 2). They last about a month. When one is empty I switch it for the new one and then refill the old one. I go to my local sporting goods store Dick's and they refill for $3.99. After 4 refills, you get one free.


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## Melissa

Wonderful tank! I'd like to try something like that. I love real plants, but usually have problems with algae taking over. Should I get a plecostomus or use algae destroyer? My single oto needs help!

Can you tell me exactly what you have for a CO2 setup? Paintball tanks attached to what?

I am just setting up a 75 gallon with sand bottom. Should I be using a layer of flourite or Flora Max under that? So far I have just used the plant tabs pushed into the sand with some success.

I live out of town and our well water is pretty hard. I've read that I shouldn't use water from the softener, so I'll use the straight well water. Can I soften the water with some peat and real driftwood?

Once this tank is ready, I'll be moving the fish from the 45 gal. 1 Oto, 1 marble angel, 4 buenos aires tetras, 8 tiger barbs, 5 marble mollies, 2 pictus cats, 2 peppered corys, 1 peacock eel,


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## tinman

Dmaaaaax said:


> Posted these in the Discus area but never added them to my tank thread...enjoy:
> 
> 2" baby red melon scorpion discus, just starting to get some blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3" wild caught brown discus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 swimming together. Notice the angelfish fins behind the driftwood?


hmm sorry if it sounds dumb 

just curious 

you said one of the discuss is wild caught ... where exactly can we find these and how would they adjust to getting transfered from wild to tanks ?


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## tinman

Dmaaaaax said:


> Posted these in the Discus area but never added them to my tank thread...enjoy:
> 
> 2" baby red melon scorpion discus, just starting to get some blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3" wild caught brown discus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 swimming together. Notice the angelfish fins behind the driftwood?


hmm sorry if it sounds dumb 

just curious 

you said one of the discuss is wild caught ... where exactly can we find these and how would they adjust to getting transfered from wild to tanks ?


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## soc200

Outstanding! I enjoyed this thread immensely.


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## elissamaria

wow amazing!! Wish I had something like that!


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## Chino

This thread is full of win. Makes my tank look like childs play.


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## janusz

Beautiful tank. Great work. Gorgeous pictures. What camera do you use? Seems to me you probably use a tripod, don't you?


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## SevenNoOni

janusz said:


> Beautiful tank. Great work. Gorgeous pictures. What camera do you use? Seems to me you probably use a tripod, don't you?


I was just about to ask the same question, As those photos are amazing quality


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## SevenNoOni

Oh i forgot Btw Beautiful tank, Its just stunning.


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## jrman83

I wonder if Dmaaaaax even has this tank anymore? Haven't seen him on the site in a long time. Maybe he'll drop by....


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## Raymond S.

paronaram...you might consider this as an alternative to what ever filter you have in the 7 G now. You would need to contrive 
a water scrubbing pad from those white filter pads but the rest could be filled/w something like either of these.
Azoo Hang-on-Back Refugiums - AquaCave.com
Seachem Matrix Bio-Media Aquarium Filter Bio Media
Hagen Fluval Pre-Filter Media 750 grams Aquarium Filter Bio Media
I have two ten G tanks. They each have a DIY bio-filter which works much the same as that filter and each has one of those
type/brand media at the bottom with this on top(water flows down) but I think it is too bulky for the refugium at the top.
CPR Bio Bale 1 Gallon Best Biological Filte Media White | eBay
But what I'm suggesting is that you eliminate the bio bale.


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