# Can Someone Recommend a Really Powerful Air Pump? (Plus a Filter Intake Question)



## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

I am in need of a very powerful air pump that can feed a ton of power to two 18" bubble bars at the bottom of my new, somewhat deeper-than-usual Marineland 60 gallon; the pumps I'm using now -- a Rena Air 400 and a Tetra Whisper 60, both of which are running "bridged" with a T-connector, so that the power from both the pumps' dual outlets are combined to feed maximum pressure to each of the bars -- are simply not providing enough power, seemingly, to make these bars spray lots of thick bubbles. I did a test in which I disconnected the tubing that's feeding each of the pumps and blew with all my might into the tubes, and the bars EXPLODED with CASCADES of thick, beautiful bubbles, which is the effect I'm trying to get, so this leads me to believe the bars are not defective or are clogged; as soon as I hook the pumps back up, the bubbles get much weaker...

Can anyone suggest a really good, powerful pump (even if it's online) that could feed two bubble bars with a ton of pressure so they can bubble well? Is there one out there that can feed two seprate bars alone?

Also -- on the same topic, sort of -- right now, I have my bubble bars kind of against the back glass of the tank, so they make a "curtain" of bubbles in the rear...but in doing this, the filter intakes from my two HOBs are sucking in the bubbles, and the noise coming from the AquaClear in particular as it grinds up the bubbles into microbubbles is driving me absolutely bonkers...

If I move the bars IN FRONT OF the filter intakes, would this prevent them from being sucked up by the HOBs for the most part?


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## ionix (Oct 11, 2012)

Heard lots of good things on the forums about these:

EcoPlus Commercial Air Pump 1

As for the HOB, I don't really know. Good question. All I can think of is having the intake lower than the bubbles output. Canister filter is what comes to my mind, because you can just cut the hose at the desired length, which could be on the side of your tank (if applicable).


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## tbub1221 (Nov 1, 2012)

i think what may be is that the bubble wand/stone w/e is like most iv owned in the fact that they dont always make nice bubble walls like the pics show , iv even tried the plastic like tube looking stuff and its connectable to extend it . i bought 3 of them and the size of the holes was slightly different from one to the next so it just leaks out where its easiest /Largest holes. adding more air pressure may not necessarily make it react as you wish . i could be wrong .. i had a 12" bubble wall stone that blew un spread out looking bubbles that looked terrible , i attempted to pit it with a large sewing needle to control the bubble flow . I hoped i could etch it , It worked great ,to great to where i lost my air pressure all to one overly large hole at about 7-8" had to break it off and plug it but the 7-8" piece is still in use . I just silicon ed a little glob on the end or some improv i dont remember now. This is probably just a great example of good advice on a great way to destroy your air stone . 
This is the pump i use there good and IMO silent and very reliable. i have had 3000 , and 8000 both awesome 8000 is great but you gotta have a few valves and connecters to use it in only a few lines so id say maybe the 3-4000 size if i bought another is what id buy


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

I use the eco air and coralife super luft for my 20+ sponges.Kens fish has both.Possibly one alittle bigger than eco 1(I have model 5) but they are loud.
EcoPlus Commercial Air Pumps


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Thanks Bandit and Ionix...

I see you both have cited the EcoPlus commercial pumps (boy, those are an eyesore for the average private home aquarium enthusiast! But I suppose that doesn't matter if they're hidden...); the thing is, I don't know, out of all of the ones they offer, which is a good one to go with for my 60 gallon tank. After all, I'm not running an entire fish room, breeding facility or consumer pet shop -- which would be good for running just two bubble bars off one of these things? Would the entry-level model, the Air Pump 1, be sufficient for my needs, or do I need to step into their more expensive models?

Further -- from the pictures, it seems a bit daunting to connect these things up to standard airline tubing, as I'm running...how would I take one of these pumps and arrange its output so that it's feeding the two bars? Just run one airline from one output, and another from one of the EcoPlus' other outputs? Does any "bridging" need to be done here with a T-connector to get max output?

Thanks again, guys!


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

tbub1221 said:


> i think what may be is that the bubble wand/stone w/e is like most iv owned in the fact that they dont always make nice bubble walls like the pics show , iv even tried the plastic like tube looking stuff and its connectable to extend it . i bought 3 of them and the size of the holes was slightly different from one to the next so it just leaks out where its easiest /Largest holes. adding more air pressure may not necessarily make it react as you wish . i could be wrong .. i had a 12" bubble wall stone that blew un spread out looking bubbles that looked terrible , i attempted to pit it with a large sewing needle to control the bubble flow . I hoped i could etch it , It worked great ,to great to where i lost my air pressure all to one overly large hole at about 7-8" had to break it off and plug it but the 7-8" piece is still in use . I just silicon ed a little glob on the end or some improv i dont remember now. This is probably just a great example of good advice on a great way to destroy your air stone .
> This is the pump i use there good and IMO silent and very reliable. i have had 3000 , and 8000 both awesome 8000 is great but you gotta have a few valves and connecters to use it in only a few lines so id say maybe the 3-4000 size if i bought another is what id buy


Hey, 'bub.

Thanks for the reply; the thing is, I'm having a very hard time making sense of what you're saying here, beyond what you describe about your exploding airstone...exactly which pump are you suggesting to me at the end of your post? You mentioned "this is the pump I use" and mentioned model numbers (which sound an awful lot like the Top Fin/Petsmart house brand) "Air" series, of which I had the top of the line, the 8000, for some time (that this was way too loud and I had to return it).

Are you suggesting the Top Fin pumps?


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Possibly the eco model one would be sufficient they are beasts.The manifold that comes with them has like 5 or 6 ports, but you could cap all but two somehow(seal with glue?).Another option would be to buy a 2 input splitter with as many outputs as the eco manifold and run it backwards(run all lines ffrom eco to the 5 on splitter and send the two feeds of the splitter to air bars.
They're not pretty and the model 5 is like 10 lbs.and pretty big.
The coralife luft(looks similiar) comes with more user friendly manifold that has valves,so you would have no hook up problems.
Both are fairly loud but also powerful enough to be remotely located(a closet ,on another floor).
For the price of where Ionix linked I'd give the eco 1 a try.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

coralbandit said:


> Possibly the eco model one would be sufficient they are beasts.The manifold that comes with them has like 5 or 6 ports, but you could cap all but two somehow(seal with glue?).Another option would be to buy a 2 input splitter with as many outputs as the eco manifold and run it backwards(run all lines ffrom eco to the 5 on splitter and send the two feeds of the splitter to air bars.
> They're not pretty and the model 5 is like 10 lbs.and pretty big.
> The coralife luft(looks similiar) comes with more user friendly manifold that has valves,so you would have no hook up problems.
> Both are fairly loud but also powerful enough to be remotely located(a closet ,on another floor).
> For the price of where Ionix linked I'd give the eco 1 a try.


Yeah, the one does seem like enough...the thing is, I am totally uncertain how to run this thing with my setup; because these are commercially intended pumps, how would I "bridge" all the outputs of the pump to feed two bars....the way you described above? Further, why does it state that an "adapter" is needed to use standard airline tubing? This seems like it's getting in over my head for my needs; as for the Coralife model, it doesn't seem to get good user reviews from what I can see...most say it's just noisy and doesn't put out a lot of air. 

I can't place a pump in another room (due to our setup and where the tank is located), but perhaps I can wrap it in a towel or blanket or something to stifile the noise? Also -- you're right; for the price in the link that Ionix provided that EcoPlus 1 really can't be beat...

Don't know what to do.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

OK had to think on this and did come up with SIMPLE solution.The eco 1 has 4 ports on manifold,all of which DO fit standard aquarium air hose.A length(6 inches or so) connected from one port to another will leave you with only two open(working) ports.They can feed your bubble wands.
As for towel idea, I would be careful of holding to much heat(probably not a real fire issue) but more will wear pump out quicker ,as the fins on it are there to help cool it.Possibly a wood box over it ,with ample air space would help muffle the noise.Maybe the model 1 is not as loud as the 5(stands to reason?).


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## Raymond S. (Jan 11, 2013)

Tetra Whisper Deep Water Air Pump at PETCO
I have not used this...just saw it while looking for air pumps.


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## ionix (Oct 11, 2012)

Okay, but the thing is it is so powerful you could literally run a line through the garage or wherever and still be doing awesome. I have never done it, but I assume it would not be an issue if the hose were out of the way safe.. I think the longer hose, the harder time the pump has to pump air into water. Not positive. Issue may be if both become clogged, it might break your air pump down (with back pressure?).

The eco 1 would do the best. Its cheapish compared to petsmart. Seems to be real lasting quality. I have no need as I don't use these, but if I did, that would be my buy.

At least when you upgrade to 100g+ (maybe if you do), it will still be working at the tanks depths.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Hey Bandit,

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you -- and everyone else -- and thank you for thinking on this issue for me; it's appreciated! 



coralbandit said:


> OK had to think on this and did come up with SIMPLE solution.The eco 1 has 4 ports on manifold,all of which DO fit standard aquarium air hose.A length(6 inches or so) connected from one port to another will leave you with only two open(working) ports.They can feed your bubble wands.


So wait -- I close off four ports with standard airline tubing and then just feed the bubble bars from the remaining two open ports? This thing has SIX outlets on it?? 



> As for towel idea, I would be careful of holding to much heat(probably not a real fire issue) but more will wear pump out quicker ,as the fins on it are there to help cool it.Possibly a wood box over it ,with ample air space would help muffle the noise.Maybe the model 1 is not as loud as the 5(stands to reason?).


Gotcha. Thanks a lot for the info.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Raymond S. said:


> Tetra Whisper Deep Water Air Pump at PETCO
> I have not used this...just saw it while looking for air pumps.


Hey Ray,

Thanks for the link and the input -- indeed, I have considered Tetra's Deep Water line, as they carry them at my local Pet-not-so-Smart, but they're AWFULLY expensive and the user reviews aren't positive...


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

ionix said:


> Okay, but the thing is it is so powerful you could literally run a line through the garage or wherever and still be doing awesome. I have never done it, but I assume it would not be an issue if the hose were out of the way safe.. I think the longer hose, the harder time the pump has to pump air into water. Not positive. Issue may be if both become clogged, it might break your air pump down (with back pressure?).
> 
> The eco 1 would do the best. Its cheapish compared to petsmart. Seems to be real lasting quality. I have no need as I don't use these, but if I did, that would be my buy.
> 
> At least when you upgrade to 100g+ (maybe if you do), it will still be working at the tanks depths.


Thank you, ionix.....I will definitely consider the Eco 1 based on all you guys' recommendations here -- and I greatly, greatly appreciate it. 

Right this very moment, the bubble bars seemed to have "come to life" still being driven by the Rena and Tetra; perhaps they just needed a bit of time for the pressure to pump though, so I don't know what I am going to do just yet...but, don't get me wrong...the bubbles are NOWHERE NEAR what they should be in terms of output and power. But there seem to be a bit more of them, so I am going to try and scrape up some cash over some time to get the Eco or perhaps a Coralife...

Here's another dilemma I'm having with regard to these pumps and bars: Because the bars are towards the back glass of the tank, creating a "curtain" of bubbles in the rear, the two filter intakes continuously suck them in, creating a really, really annoying "churning" noise as the impellers of the filters chop them up into microbubbles. I have been told this will destroy my HOBs' motors in no time, and that bubbles should never be allowed to be sucked into the filter intakes -- is this true, or is it just aquaria folklore? If this is something I need to change, should I move both bars forward, so that they're IN FRONT OF the filter intakes? *c/p*


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## Dave Waits (Oct 12, 2012)

The Air tubes are causing your pump to cavitate. What I would suggest is to split the tube and place each half on either side of the pump intake.

As for your Airpump question, Hagen makes a big Optima air pump that creates 4 psi of air. I have one although I'm currently using a Tetra-Tec to drive my sponge filter. The Optima was too powerful. If used with a check-valve you can set either pump down at the bottom of the Stand and have plenty to drive that bubble-bar.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Dave Waits said:


> The Air tubes are causing your pump to cavitate. What I would suggest is to split the tube and place each half on either side of the pump intake.


What do you mean by the "Air Tubes" are causing the pump to cavitate -- do you mean the INTAKE TUBES of my HOB FILTERS are causing the AIR PUMPS feeding the bubble bars to cavitate? 



> As for your Airpump question, Hagen makes a big Optima air pump that creates 4 psi of air. I have one although I'm currently using a Tetra-Tec to drive my sponge filter. The Optima was too powerful. If used with a check-valve you can set either pump down at the bottom of the Stand and have plenty to drive that bubble-bar.


Thanks, Dave; I shall put the Optima on my shopping list.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

*UPDATE:*

Okay. Did a 50% water change on the tank, and hooked up a new Top Fin Air 8000 pump, and also cut longer pieces of tubing to connect to two of its four outlets (for each bar); the bubbles coming out are INCREDIBLE, and what I was looking for. Perhaps even more incredible is the fact that this pump is NOT as noisy as it was when I bought one years ago -- it MAY be the fact that I'm utilizing ALL four of its outputs (I don't expect this to last though, as it seems the more time that passes with these pumps, the lower and weaker their output becomes). Additionally, I took one of the bars out that happened to be in the 10 gallon I used to have the goldies in prior to getting this new 60 gallon (it was running in this new tank since I set it up and stripped the 10 gallon) and rinsed it under hot water while scrubbing with an old toothbrush to remove some algae that seems to have grown on it from the last tank; this MAY have contributed to the bubbles now coming out better too...

Here's the problem, though: Even with moving both bubble bars forward in the gravel, away from the two HOB filter intake tubes (and better burying them in the substrate so the bars themselves aren't visible -- looks MUCH better), the bubbles being produced now are STILL flying into the AquaClear 110's intake and the noise as they're ground up into microbubbles (and subsequently destroying the filter's impeller and motor from what I'm told) is driving me even NUTTIER than it did before...

Is there ANYTHING save for moving the bars even MORE FORWARD away from the intake tube (the Aqueon HOB isn't sucking in bubbles because the bar closest to that filter is too far to the intake tube's right for the bubbles to be sucked into it) that I can do to stop these bubbles from being sucked into the AquaClear 110's intake? *Is it really true that a filter's motor can be burned out and completely fried by bubbles being sucked into it?* If this is more of a rumor kind of thing rather than a fact, I could learn to live with the loud, unsettling noise I suppose...


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

*UPDATE:*

Got on a chair to reach the bottom of this ridiculously deep and tall tank (I will NEVER own another "high-over-long" aquarium again) and made a mess attempting to move the bubble bars forward to the point that the one that's producing bubbles being sucked into the AquaClear HOB wasn't making the grinding noise; the only thing this did was disturb the substrate and completely destroy the cohesiveness of the aquascaping my wife did in that corner of the tank -- we had a small Asian gazebo towards the right corner with tall plants around it, with a little "garden" leading up to it from cut up pieces of a Marineland "plant mat," and my digging around to move these PITA bars messed up her whole scape in that area, which looked perfect (the tank is still a design in progress -- we don't have nearly enough decor as we want). Further, I couldn't get the bar on the LEFT to move up any further because of a tree trunk decoration in that corner, and even if I did, the bars would be nearly in the CENTER of this tank because it's so darn narrow. So, I ended up moving the bar on the right back a bit, which started the horrendous filter intake noise again, burying it under the substrate and attempting to fix the messed-up decor. The little Asian gazebo was pushed way too far forward against the front glass when I moved the bar on that side forward to escape the filter intake suction, so the whole attempt just didn't work...

Can anyone recommend anything else? *c/p*


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Okay, so a bit of an update...

Spent a great deal of time earlier on Saturday (well, today) attempting to quiet the overtly annoying, rattling buzz this Top Fin pump makes -- the only way the noise subsides is if you run the pump on MINIMUM output, which makes one of my bubble bars spit out a couple of bubbles while the other one throws a bit more, but as soon as I turn the control dial up, the humming/buzzing/ground loop-like racket returns. I placed two washcloths, folded a few times so they were thick, beneath the pump and it didn't quiet it. Next, I attempted to wrap a full towel around the pump -- with the washcloths still under it for extra absorption -- and if you can believe this, it seems to have made the humming and vibration feedback WORSE and LOUDER. I ended up taking the towel off of the pump and now I'm just running it with the washcloths beneath it while I figure out what to do next...

I have read from owners that wrote "reviews" (the grammar and spelling of these overviews are hysterically asinine) on Petsmart's site about these pumps that a computer mouse pad could be put beneath it to squelch some of the vibrations and noise the model 8000 in particular puts out, but I don't know if that's going to work if wrapping it in a thick towel with two layered washcloths beneath it didn't...

If anyone has any last-ditch suggestions to try on the noise/vibration front, I'm all ears, eyes and...well...you know...


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Here's another thought I had regarding the bubble/filter intake issue; if anyone has any opinion on this, please fire away...

What if I covered the area of the bubble bar that's directly in front of the filter intake, causing the bubbles to be sucked up into the impeller? Perhaps maybe with something like a stone/rock or a heap of the substrate? (I have plenty of it left over...)

Should this, at least in theory, block the bubbles that are going directly into the HOB's intake strainer, thus causing the impeller cavitation I'm hearing, and which is subsequently driving me f'in bonkers?? The only question I have then is, where would these "blocked" bubbles be directed to...would the rest of the bar then push out more bubbles because this section would be "blocked off"?


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

*UPDATE:* 

_Side note: I tried what my wife mentioned -- that is, removing one bubble bar and moving the other one so that it sits kind of "between" the two filter intakes, sort of "off center" in the back of the tank -- but I didn't care for it, as it made the right side of the back look empty and "unbalanced;" I moved the two bars back together again so it appears as though a nearly complete wall is formed in the rear of the aquarium..._ 

Okay, so the Top Fin AIR-8000 I recently (re)purchased has been really pumpin' out the bubbles to the two bubble bars in my tank, and giving the effect I was looking for. Outside of the HORRENDOUS vibration/buzz/humming this thing gives off (which I would probably have to deal with on the commercial pumps as well), I've been happy with its performance. And I think I stumbled on what may have been causing the issues in the past with the Tetra and Rena pumps, as suggested to me by someone on one of the forums I frequent (can't recall if it was this one; have to check the back pages of this thread) -- the fact that I am not using very short tubing pieces to connect the two outputs to feed one bar. 

In the past, I had cut some pretty stubby pieces of airline tubing to "bridge" the two outputs of the pumps together with a T-connector for output, and I think this was causing "backpressure" on the pump; at any rate, the AIR-8000 seems to be pumping and supplying a nice amount of air pressure -- so much so I have to continuously turn the control wheel down!

Here are the remaining dilemmas with regard to this pump issue (and I will revisit this thread should the AIR-8000 give me problems or I need to upgrade again, as I'll be looking to the "pro" commercial-type pumps at that point): The noise from one of the bars spitting bubbles into my AquaClear 110 HOB's intake is still driving me INSANE; because of my setup, I couldn't find any other way to make these bars work, so unfortunately the 110's intake stem is sucking bubbles directly into the filter box, causing the "box of rocks" noise I am hearing. While it doesn't bother my wife in the least bit, I can't stand it, and feels it takes away from the "serene, peaceful" experience an aquarium is supposed to provide to its observers. What I'm thinking is that perhaps I could place a stone, rock or pile of extra substrate I have over that patch of bubble bar which is directly under the filter intake, so the bubbles don't go directly into it...in theory, this should make more bubbles come out of the remainder of the bar, right? Does this sound like a viable option?

The second issue is the aforementioned buzzing/humming/vibrating coming from the Top Fin pump (a common problem amongst owners of this model). I have placed it on two pretty thick washcloths, stacked on top of one another, in the attempt to absorb the vibration and noise, but it still hums and buzzes. I have even wrapped a towel around the pump, completely, and the noise seemed to get WORSE if you can believe that...is there ANYTHING else, short of putting the pump in another room (which isn't an option), I can try to squelch the noise of this pump?


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## Dave Waits (Oct 12, 2012)

I'm assuming that you are using the long, Blue Bubble-bars? If you remove the cap from the end of each bar you can cut them back to say, 2 or 3" from the intakes and reinstall the caps.

As for the air pump, I would suggest taking it back as the diaphragm bar isn't adjusted correctly from the factory. That is the buzzing you hear. BTW, you can't even hear my air pumps running from four feet away from the tank.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Dave Waits said:


> I'm assuming that you are using the long, Blue Bubble-bars? If you remove the cap from the end of each bar you can cut them back to say, 2 or 3" from the intakes and reinstall the caps.


No, I'm using two of these:

Google Image Result for http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21B4cJitQiL._SY300_.jpg



> As for the air pump, I would suggest taking it back as the diaphragm bar isn't adjusted correctly from the factory. That is the buzzing you hear. BTW, you can't even hear my air pumps running from four feet away from the tank.


This has been a regular issue and irritation with all users of this particular line of pumps; the SAME exact thing happened the last time I bought this pump...I think it's just how it's manufactured...

Aquarium Pump » Top Fin® Air Pump AIR 1000| PetSmart


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## Mr_Pat (Apr 13, 2010)

I use part of an aqua clear sponge over my aqua clear intakes keeps plant debris from clogging the intake and also seems to lesson air bubbles from entering the filter. for the amount of area and the depth your trying to push the air you need a strong air pump. comes with the territory of owning a deep tank. the deeper the water the higher the pressure at the deepest point / hence higher air pressure needed to get the effect you want. you will probably still need to move the bubble wall in front of the filter intakes. the sponge will help keep some of the air from the filter but if the bubbles are directly under the intake/sponge you will still be getting air into the filter and yes it will eventually cause problems with the filter as well as that noise you hear.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Mr_Pat said:


> I use part of an aqua clear sponge over my aqua clear intakes keeps plant debris from clogging the intake and also seems to lesson air bubbles from entering the filter. for the amount of area and the depth your trying to push the air you need a strong air pump. comes with the territory of owning a deep tank. the deeper the water the higher the pressure at the deepest point / hence higher air pressure needed to get the effect you want. you will probably still need to move the bubble wall in front of the filter intakes. the sponge will help keep some of the air from the filter but if the bubbles are directly under the intake/sponge you will still be getting air into the filter and yes it will eventually cause problems with the filter as well as that noise you hear.


Thanks for the idea regarding the sponge on the intake; I had been considering something to cover the intake strainer slits. With regard to the pump and its ability to pressurize the bubble bars, the Top Fin model has been doing just fine with regard to power, but its noise is another story...


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## Mr_Pat (Apr 13, 2010)

I have nothing for ya on the noise elimination... check valve in line and put the pump under the tank inside the stand ?? if you put it into any form of box buy a small fan to add air flow through the box or the pump will likely cook itself.. I bought one of the smaller pumps from Kens and tried to box it off due to noise ... and forgot to add a fan... came home to a dead pump... my own fault though.


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## tbub1221 (Nov 1, 2012)

ClinicaTerra said:


> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Okay. Did a 50% water change on the tank, and hooked up a new Top Fin Air 8000 pump, and also cut longer pieces of tubing to connect to two of its four outlets (for each bar); the bubbles coming out are INCREDIBLE, and what I was looking for. Perhaps even more incredible is the fact that this pump is NOT as noisy as it was when I bought one years ago -- it MAY be the fact that I'm utilizing ALL four of its outputs (I don't expect this to last though, as it seems the more time that passes with these pumps, the lower and weaker their output becomes). Additionally, I took one of the bars out that happened to be in the 10 gallon I used to have the goldies in prior to getting this new 60 gallon (it was running in this new tank since I set it up and stripped the 10 gallon) and rinsed it under hot water while scrubbing with an old toothbrush to remove some algae that seems to have grown on it from the last tank; this MAY have contributed to the bubbles now coming out better too...
> 
> ...


Great to hear you got this all worked out , took me a wile to check up on this thread and yes this was the pump I was referring to , apparently I just left that Parr out. Glad its working well 4 ya , mine are honestly the quietest pumps I run . Sounds like it is a beautiful setup by how youv described it. Hope it continues working well for you.


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## tbub1221 (Nov 1, 2012)

BTW , can I ask really hush how loud is it , I hear a light muffled noise but the most aggravating noise I hear is my DIY co2 , the diffuser makes a higher pitch whistle than air stone bubbles so really that's all I hear, my filter is 100% silent .


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Hey Guys,

Sorry for the delay in getting back to this thread; apparently, I didn't receive any reminder that a new reply had come in, even though I'm subscribed via instant email to be reminded...

At any rate, thanks for all your help with this; with regard to the noise, well, it's more a buzzy vibration that sounds like "feedback whine" at times, if that makes sense...

I will report back with any questions and re energize the thread should the Top Fin pump not work out...for now, I believe much of the problem was this "backpressure" due to the short tubing I used to "bridge" the dual outputs of the Rena and Tetra pumps; since using longer tubing on the new Top Fin pump to bridge its quad outputs down to two to feed each bubble bar, the pressure seems to be holding...

I actually have some shots of my tank taken last night and this morning so you can see what it looks like and add input and opinion with regard to the design direction; I will visit that in a new thread...

Thank you all again!


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