# Brown Algae?



## frogwings (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi! I just joined the forum and wish to say "thanks" to all who welcomed me aboard! I will probably not have much to contribute in the way of advice or recommendations as I am new to this "tanking" hobby, but I do have questions! 

There is some brown, hairy stuff clinging to the plant leaves, waving gracefully in the small ripples made by the filters. I have a 10 gallon tank, heavily planted, with two DAF and 6 neon tetras. I just had the water tested and it is perfect, according to the test. Nitrites, and nitrates, PH, etc. I just did a 50% water change and the fuzzy stuff is still there. I even cleaned some of it off by hand but it is back again! Yikes! Is this brown algae or some other alien form of life? Is there any cure? I though I might be overfeeding the tetras, but since the test didn't show abnormal nitrates(?), maybe that isn't the problem. Any advice, suggestions or educational input would be greatly appreciated!
*old dude ette!


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## HFGGHG (Aug 28, 2011)

Hi Frogwings,

I am assuming that the plants are live ? There is a type of red algae
that hangs in threads. It is caused by a lack of CO2 in the water.

If the plants are live, you could go back to the store where you
bought them and inquire there. Perhaps the brown stuff is a sign of
poor plant health.


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## FAIRCHILD (Jun 30, 2011)

When i have seen brown algae (Diatoms) it is usually due to either silicates or low lighting. What type of lighting do you have? You may want to amp it up a bit. Also, water change every 2-3 days abut 50% or so. 

Also, Ottos and Bristlenose Plecos are know too eat brown algae and put a good dent into it.


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## HFGGHG (Aug 28, 2011)

p.s. I have 7 Neon Tetras. Love them ! They are soooo cute !


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## harveya (Aug 12, 2011)

How old is the tank? I have been lead to believe brown algae is very common in tanks that are new. It is most apparent towards the end of cycle.


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## frogwings (Aug 26, 2011)

OK! I will try to answer all the questions first: 

The plants are live.
The lighting is 3, full spectrum daylight, 18" T8s on 12 hours/day
I have had the tank set up for about 3 months.

At first I had just the frogs and the tank looked beautiful. No algae. Then I got the tetras and the brown stuff started showing up. (I have had the tetras for about 2 weeks.) This is why I thought I was feeding the tetras too much, but have been closely monitoring the food. Since this all happened after I got the fish, I can't help but feel somehow they or their food have caused this "bloom" I have 2 small Whisper in-tank filters (3i) ~ maybe I need a larger filter? The salesperson at Petsmart suggested I put in an air pump with air stone? I am so-o-o-o-o bummed about this.


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## harveya (Aug 12, 2011)

Sales people at pet shops.....pfft. A planted tank with good circulation and surface agitation does not need an air pump. You need to be turning your water over at least 3 times an hour.

Assuming you feed the tetras flake?? Your algae could be a result of excess food, but I believe it could most probably be a result of new tank syndrome. Do you test the water?? What is your ammo, nitrites, nitrates?? I feed my neon tetras every day, but no more that 2 min eating. I should probably feed ever other day...... The good thing about brown algea is it is easy to clean. Just vacuum it up every couple of days and I would think it would go away by itself. Maybe look into your lighting. I would have full strength for 9 hours and have an evening light on for the last couple. You could even back all lighting off to 10hours. Are you using CO2? I have read that people double dose the liquid stuff but not sure what type of algea that was for.


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## frogwings (Aug 26, 2011)

I do feed the tetras flake food. I think they eat most of it but I do see a stray flake or two floating away and clinging to the brown stuff. I test the water ph (7.6) myself but took a sample into Petsmart* for a full scale testing. That's where I got the "all clear" sign. I will get my own test kit but have no idea which one to get or if there is even a selection. Any recommendations? 

Regarding the filters and turning the water over at least 3 times an hour: how do I determine if the filters I have are up to par? Should I get a larger one? I will do more research on this. I will also look into the CO2 thing.

I will certainly cut back on the lighting and vacuum more often as suggested. I appreciate all the fabulous input I am getting. 

*I realize that Petsmart isn't the most reliable source for information but until now it is the only source I knew of. That is why I searched for and found this wonderful forum! Google rocks!


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## FAIRCHILD (Jun 30, 2011)

Get an API Master kit. They can be had for around $35. They are excellent.


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## frogwings (Aug 26, 2011)

API master kit is it! I will search out one today! *thumbsup thanx


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

If you go to kensfish.com he has the master kits for $20. Most online places they run about that price.


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## foolintherain (Aug 6, 2011)

Petsmart just uses the little strips, which are literally worthless. I'm still cycling my tank, and even at the peak of my ammonia levels (measured with that same API kit), the little strips I had bought read 0.

Also, I agree with getting it online, it'll be a lot cheaper. 



frogwings said:


> *I realize that Petsmart isn't the most reliable source for information but until now it is the only source I knew of. That is why I searched for and found this wonderful forum! Google rocks!


I have pretty much the same story. I recommend reading this post:
http://www.aquariumforum.com/f14/observations-former-petsmart-employee-17977.html


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## harveya (Aug 12, 2011)

As other have mentioned get the API master test kit. Read instructions carefully, especially the Nitrate test. I cannot stress enough about the correct procedure, specifically bottle 2. Instructions will be clear.

Do you have any info regarding your filter? ideally if you have say 50gal of water, you need to be pumping 150gal of water per hour. Filters are generally rated to galon per hour. let your finger do the typing and look your filter up.

"Your fish eat most of the food" That comment on its own could be the result of algae. They need to eat ALL in 2 minutes (for tetra). Anymore and you are over feeding. It is best to be on the light site than heavy.

The trouble with pet shops and the staff is, they are under pressure to sell anything they can. Not all have a fish tank and as im sure you are aware now, there is so much to know and owning one is really the only way you will learn. Even still if they have one they will want to sell you something. Keep away from chemicals that "fix" things, like ph up or ph down etc. Adding these chemicals i believe do more harm than good and cover up an underlying problem. 

As for the original algae question?? I still believe it is new tank syndrome and with regular cleaning, less food, light to 10 hours max it will go away in a few weeks.


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## frogwings (Aug 26, 2011)

I have ordered the API test kit from kensfish and will put it to good use as soon as I get it! I will also be very careful while doing the testing as suggested. 
I checked out my filter information and it moves 20 gallons of water per hour and I have 2. That should do the job in a 10 gallon tank, right? As for the CO2, I am not using that but maybe I should check into it.
Now I just have to see what the tests show in addition to following the other steps with regard to feeding, lighting, and water changes. The tanks I have seen here are absolutely fabulous ~ they give me something to strive for!


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