# DIY RO/DI Flush Kit



## Nereus7 (Jun 13, 2012)

Basicly it's been recommened to me I should use a flush kit for my RO/DI unit. I have no idea how they work but they seem simple enough. It's for an Aqua FX Barracuda. Does anyone know what I'm trying to accomplish, and basicly how these work? Any advice is appreciated, thanks - N


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

basically what you want to do is flush the first 2 filters(depends how many stages you have) out to waste to clean them before accumulated sediments reach you third stage and most certainly before the TFC.What your doing is trying to prolong the life of the more expensive filters.My system has it built in in between 2&3.You need a Tee with a gate(lever to control which way you send water).Send one right where it was going, and the other (hose , tube) to waste.Every 1000 gallons or so turn lever to send water out to waste. Let it run 15-30 minutes.A pressure gauge located after the third filter is a wonderful indicator(pressure gets lower, means stage 1&2 are getting clogged).Bulk reef supply sells systems complete(someone said $300 was to high a price to pay). I have 6 stage dual deionizer. Preesure gauge built in, flush built in digital meter to count water going in along with digital tds(in and out) meter. Every 1000 I flush ,every 3000 I change filter 1, every 6000 I change 1&2. My di changes color so I can see.Tds never goes above 0 out.Taking care of cheaper filters makes more expensive filters last longer. BRS has videos about everyrthing they sell, check it out(they'll probably explain better than me). I think they most of the misc.parts the kits that were $20 cheaper are missing. There filters are very reasonably priced also.You and everyone should flush ro/di just to be efficient and have better water quality.


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## Nereus7 (Jun 13, 2012)

OK just to make sure I'm reading you right. It's a 4 stage, sediment, carbon, membrane, di. Basicly I hook the T up to go sediment, carbon, to waste exit? And switch back to 1,2,membrane,di when I'm back to making water? Let me know if I'm getting that right, thanks - N


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

I believe you got it. The whole idea is to rinse the filters that do most of the work.Position T as you said inbetween 2&3. Flush every thousand or more if you wish.This is supposed to prolong life of more expensive filters(3 and TFC membrane) and increase(or maintane)pressure to 3 and TFC.Bulk reef supply (BRS) has great instructional videos that explain.(BRS on internet)You don't have to have there system to understand what they say(very informational) and I believe they sell parts to "complete"systems.This is not and ad or plug,I was very skeptical of ro/di(having distilled for 5 years) but sick of distillers either burning up elements($199.00) for replacement(thats when I changed over) or dealing with heat generated by distiller.I am no longer skeptical as my tanks are flourishing,and I have way more water than ever.(BRS)


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## Nereus7 (Jun 13, 2012)

Ok cuz I was thinking they back flushed the membrane. As I was understanding it there's this thing called TDS creep. So basicly you want to run your filter for about 30 minutes with the DI off each time you use it to knock out solids otherwise your di burns up quicker than it should, and after your done making water you flip the switch you're talking about and back flush the membrane. I'm not too sure if it's different from system to system but from what I've gathered the flush is directed towards the membrane. Which is basicly why I was thinking why not just flip the 'in' and 'out' and do it that way. Now I have two schools of thought heh,. I was told not to even worry about stage 1&2 until the TDS got to 15, switch the DI when it's orange, and the membrane after I forget how many gallons, I'll probably just plug in the TDS meter and gauge that down the road. I'll be sure to check out that vid. thanks for the heads up - N

**edit** I can't spell to save my life, that's 4 edits so far so much for proof reading


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