# Sticky  What Algae Eater Is Right For You? Look Inside!



## Scuff

Every day, I get a lot of questions from my customers about whether they should have an algae eater in their aquarium or not. The majority of the time, they arrive at the store having been told to 'go get one a' them allergy eaters and it'll clear your tank right up'. They come in, point at a Hypostomus plecostomus or a Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps (common Pleco and Sailfin Pleco), and say 'I want one of them for my tank, I've got a big algae problem!'.

The typical course of conversation then flows through me asking them a number of questions that have nothing to do with the fish at all, and usually ends with them leaving the store with another type of algae eater, or nothing more than knowledge about how to combat their algae problem.

I will say this right now:

With few exceptions, no aquarium _needs_ an algae eater.

There, now that the huge text is out of the way, let me clarify. With few exceptions, a well-maintained aquarium should not experience significant enough algal growth to warrant the purchase and maintenance of an algae-eating fish. Algae eaters are simply not the solution to algae in an aquarium; fixing the root cause of the algae is. If you knew that eating hamburgers gave you a common cold, you would stop eating hamburgers instead of constantly dosing yourself with Nyquil...wouldn't you?

Without turning this into an enormous thread on why algae occurs in the first place, let me just point out a few of the more common reasons; most of these are easily rectified by the home aquarist with little to no cost (and sometimes even a cost savings!).

*Turn your light off!* If you do not have live plants in the aquarium, and you aren't at home to view your fish...your light should not be on. Your light benefits you far more than it does the fish in most cases. Turn it on for a few hours when you get home so you can view the fish and feed them, and turn it off when you go to bed. The majority of freshwater fish do absolutely fine with ambient light from the room (providing your aquarium isn't in a basement). Leaving your lights on for hours upon hours at a time is an invitation for algal growth.
*Keep up on your aquarium maintenance.* This means your water partials and your filter changes. Water that's allowed to sit and accumulate nitrates will be much more likely to grow algae than water that has regular water partials done to it. Algae needs food to grow, and what it cannot make from the light it makes from the available fertilizer (nitrates) in your water.
*Consider changing your lightbulb.* If you're using something like a SunGlo, or an equivalent light...change it out (assuming a lack of live plants in the aquarium). Light in the red spectrum is used by plants of all ilk in the production of green growth, which is all that algae is. Having a yellow/orange light over your tank is providing the perfect wavelength of light for algae to grow. Try to put something like a PowerGlo or other similar light over it; light in the blue/purple spectrum is used mainly for fruit/flower production, both of which algae lack. It will also bring out the colors in your fish.
*Test your source water.* Sometimes, source water contains things that algae really likes, such as phosphates or iron. If you find that your source water has amounts of these things in it, you may want to consider using resins in your filter to remove them (expensive in the long-run), or using filtered water. Some LFS sell RO/DI water already made up, typically by the gallon, that is free of these things. Word of the wise, however: _Do not, under any circumstances, use distilled water without treating it first. _Distilled water contains none of the minerals a fish's body needs to properly osmoregulate. Using it in your aquarium will cause a slow and very painful death for your fish. If you wish to use distilled water, treat it with a product called R/O Right, made by Kent Marine. It comes in both a powdered and liquid form, and works well for re-mineralizing R/O and distilled water.
If you are having algae issues, please check those things before you run out to buy an algae eater. Adding a fish to your aquarium simply for utility is never a good thing to do; if a fish is in there that you may not have wanted much in the first place, you're less likely to properly care for it. And under no circumstances should you _ever use algae-killing chemicals in your aquarium._ The impact such chemicals have on your water chemistry can be catastrophic in smaller aquariums, and when you think about all an algae killer does is give you a lot of dead algae decomposing in your aquarium. There are easier solutions available, so just avoid them altogether.

Now, on to the nitty gritty and species profiles!

Not Recommended

*Fancy Plecos of any type!



















*I'm sure you've been into your LFS and seen that beautiful Gold Nugget or Royal Pleco, and drooled over how gorgeous it looks. I totally agree! One of my favorite freshwater fish is the Gold Nugget Pleco; I just think they're absolutely gorgeous. The problem lies in that the fancy varieties are only fair to middling at removing algae at best, and downright terrible at it at the worst. Clown and Royal Plecos, for example, enjoy rasping away at driftwood as the majority of their diet. They subsist on the small insects and algae growing inside it. You will very rarely find them eating algae off of your ornaments or glass.

Fancy Plecos can also be downright belligerent and territorial, even to the point of killing your fish. Leopard Plecos are especially vicious when deal with other fish in their territory, which is a shame because they're quite beautiful. In other words...leave fancy Plecos out of your aquarium unless you're keeping them as a species, and not as a living algae scraper.

*Chinese Algae Eaters*_ (Gyrinocheilus sp.)_
_ 










Avoid these little monsters like the plague._ These are sold often as good algae eaters to unsuspecting aquarists, and while it's true that they do eat some algae when small and young, they very quickly give up the vegetarian lifestyle to pursue more carnivorous fare. It's not unheard of for these cretins to rasp the scales off the sides of larger fish, and they're just plain naughty regardless. Add their eventual size of almost a foot, and you have a fish that's unsuitable for a very large portion of the aquarists out there.

*Common Pleco/Gibbiceps Pleco* (_Hypostomus plecostomus/Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps)

_









I hesitated in adding these to the Not Recommended section, as they can do a rather good job of removing some types of algae. The problem comes from their eventual large size however, with both species reaching near two feet in length (as seen in the photo provided). These tank busters will outgrow your aquarium in short order, and there are far too many of them out there already in aquariums that are entirely too small for them. If you do not have a 75g+ aquarium...pass these giants up.

Good at Algae Removal
*
Flying Fox* (_Epalzeorhynchos kalopterus_)










The Flying Fox is a small to medium-sized Cyprinid related closely to the Rainbow and Red-Tail Sharks. Maximum size is 4" or so, and with the exception of hair and some filamentous algae, they graze readily on all types. The main issue with this species is its territoriality; once it sets up shop around a clump of driftwood or an ornament, it can act belligerent towards tankmates that come too close; never keep two of these fish together in the same aquarium, as their aggression towards each other can border on the psychotic (much like their relatives the Red Tail Sharks).

Easily distinguished from the Siamese Algae Eater by the smooth edges of the black line running down its sides.

Better At Algae Removal

*Otocinclus Cats* _(Otocinclus vestitus)
_









Oto Cats do a wonderful job of cleaning up algae, and have the added benefits of being non-aggressive and small in size. They best in small groups, and really do best in planted aquariums. They particularly shine in heavily-planted aquariums, cleaning the leaves of algae.

If you do not have plants in your aquarium, I would pass on Oto Cats.

Best At Algae Removal

*Bristlenose Pleco* _(Ancistrus sp.)

_









Bristlenose Plecos are true oddballs, but wonderful algae eaters. They eat all forms of algae with gusto, and have an added bonus of being non-aggressive and attaining easily accommodated sizes. Plus, they're just plain cool looking! With a maximum size of around 4-5", they fit in most aquariums from 20g and up. While they do not harm plants directly, their grazing activity on the leaves of plants could potentially lead to broken stems, so care should be taken when putting them into planted aquariums.

Males are easily differentiated from females by the abundance of 'bristles' on their nose; females only have a small amount of short bristles on the front edge of their nose.

*Siamese Algae Eaters* _(__Crossocheilus siamensis)_



Another cyprinid algae eater that closely resembles the aforementioned Flying Fox, the SAE is, in my opinion, the most versatile and efficient algae eater that can be put into your aquarium. They eat all types of algae, and with a maximum length of 4-5" and a slim body, it does not attain any great size. They do very well in planted aquariums, as they will not stress the stalks of plants if they alight upon them to graze. As with the Flying Fox, keep these fish singly to avoid aggression between individuals. Aggression and territoriality with other species of fish is very limited in this species, however they can certainly return it if harassed by other fish.

The SAE can be easily distinguished from the Flying Fox by the serrated edge to the black stripes running the length of its body.

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I'd like to conclude this article by reiterating my initial point that almost no aquarium requires an algae eater to be successful and healthy. However, if you do choose include a species of algae eater in your aquarium, keep in mind that it will require attention and care like the rest of the fish in your aquarium.

All algae eater species benefit from additional feeding of algae wafers and fresh vegetables, and should be fed these 2-3 times a week. Zucchini strips make great fare; I keep a bag of them in my freezer at all times. The formation of ice crystals in the cells of the plant cause the texture to get soft, making them easier to eat. Frozen peas are a wonderful treat that are eagerly accepted by all algae eaters as well. Simply thaw them and squeeze them out of the skins. I've heard of people having great success feeding them pieces of melon, but this is a little too messy for my tastes. Most of them also benefit from a bit of animal matter in their diet. Sinking pellets/wafers work well, as do pieces of shrimp and clam. Plecostomus and related species do require some form of driftwood in their aquarium as well; they use the fiber for proper digestive health.

So in conclusion...if you feel the need to keep an algae eater in your aquarium, choose it wisely. Pick one for your specific application, and make sure you feed it as required, and _fix the cause of your algae problem instead of putting on a living band-aid!_


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## M1ster Stanl3y

How do you feel about gold algae eaters?


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## automatic-hydromatic

good post 


I love my Albino Bristlenoses. I've got two of them in my planted 30 gallon, and they keep the tank sides almost spotless. About once a month, what they miss accumulates on the sides and I take a cleaner to it, but that's better than once a week like I had to before I had any Bristlenoses, LOL

These guys seem to tare up the large leaves on my Amazon Sword though, so that's something to keep in mind.


Also, don't get them and expect them to ONLY live off algae. Treat them to an algae wafer, or even certain vegetables a couple times a week.

Another note is that some sort of drift wood is a MUST for these guys to live happy and healthy. They also like to rasp on it constantly.


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## Scuff

M1ster Stanl3y said:


> How do you feel about gold algae eaters?


These are, in 99% of the cases, simply a gold-colored Chinese Algae Eater.

And good point about the driftwood, automatic; I meant to originally put that in my post, but I guess I forgot. The point about the veggies was made at the end of the article.


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## automatic-hydromatic

Scuff said:


> The point about the veggies was made at the end of the article.


ah okay, I did not see that the first time


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## chris oe

Great article, lots of good points. One point I'd add is that algae is usually there because of nutrient excess, and when plecos are done eating whatever amount of algae they're going to eat, they poop, and the total decrease in nutrient is small. The solution for algae is balance. But that's just quibbling, all the important information is there.

I agree with you - the only reason to have an algae eater is if you enjoy them. My 55 display tank is currently almost entirely algae eaters and bottom feeders, just 'cause I happen to love 'em.


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## jrman83

You can also use Seachem's Equalibrium or gh booster to treat filtered water. I recommend using it for not only distilled, but also RODI water. It too has had much, if not all, of the natural minerals stripped out of the water.


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## Scuff

Really any filtered water, whether RO or deionized, should be 'reconstituted', so to speak. There are many products out there that do the job well; I just mentioned the Kent because it's what I use.


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## susankat

A great post! My belief in algae eaters is not to buy a fish for algae. but to buy one because you like the fish. I love all types of plecos, they are the neatest creatures. And yes I do have a big common but I also have the tanks to maintain it.

The bigger plecos aren't really good at cleaning algae, they get more lazy over time so they must be fed other foods. Bristlenose are one of the best algae eaters out there, and I do have plenty of those.

If you feel that you need an algae eater make sure you get something to fit the size of tank that you have. Sometimes that may just mean mystery snails or just shrimp. But please don't buy one because you have algae. They don't eat every kind of algae there is and you could end up causing yourself more problems by getting one that don't fit the tank.


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## verdifer

I disagree with no aquarium needs an Algae Eater, they do need it but people need to be informed about how an Algae Eater works, they see the name Algae Eater and think it's the answer to their problem, calling them something like Fish that will also eat algae may be better, I have seen folks with Algae Eaters who do not feed it because they are under the impression algae is it's only diet.

These fish need to be fed, flakes won't do, algae wafers are fine but they need more variety, since freshwater is using tap water then the chances are Phosphate and Nitrate will get into the tank, water changes will lower Nitrates but Ive yet to see it take them away apart from a full water change with no Nitrate in it I can't see it any other way, most folks have a in-tank filter so using Phosphate Remover is harder.

When I speak to folks about them I tell them these fish eating the algae is just a bonus, it's like with Dogs, when I had my dog I was always giving it food from my plate when I was eating my dinner, I used to toss a bit down and it would eat it, that doesn't mean they eat the same as humans it just so happens they will eat it but we still need to get them dog food, I also point out that the shape of their mouths aren't designed that way to eat algae (another mis-conception loads of folks have) but are that way to hold onto rocks in fast flowing rivers.

I would also go for a Bristlenose not only because they eat algae but because they are beautiful fish.


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## Scuff

verdifer said:


> I disagree with no aquarium needs an Algae Eater, they do need it but people need to be informed about how an Algae Eater works


I'm sorry, I know you're entitled to your opinion and everything, but there is almost no aquarium that requires an algae eater in the same way that it would need, say, a heater. Proper maintenance and upkeep will prevent 99% of the algae problems most people come into contact with. My statement of 'no aquarium needs an algae eater' does not preclude them from ever being kept in an aquarium however; I do mention in the article that they are wonderful to be kept for themselves and not for their algae cleaning abilities.


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## ellyabillion

I love my bushynose pleco! I had horrible algae on my plants and driftwood, and she took care of the problem until I could help the plants outcompete the algae by giving them Flourish Excel. 

I've noticed that she'll sometimes go after the other fishes' food that makes it to the bottom, but she really loves kale or spinach from my CSA share.


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## eaglesfan3711

Along with bristlenose plecos, rubberlip plecos also do the job. As much as I agree that algae can be controlled, I don't believe it can be totally eliminated. I will make the comment, never to use chemicals when trying to remove algae. They do not work and there are more efficient, natural ways to keep algae down. Add plants, reduce the amount of light, reduce the amount of feeding which supplies the algae with nutrients (brown), and adding an algae eater are much better for controlling algae. For outdoor ponds with algae problems, UV sterilizers do an amazing job of destroying the common green water problem. I would discourage the use of products like AlgaeFix, algae destroyer, etc, because they aren't going to do any good for the tank.


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## Scuff

eaglesfan3711 said:


> Along with bristlenose plecos, rubberlip plecos also do the job. As much as I agree that algae can be controlled, I don't believe it can be totally eliminated. I will make the comment, never to use chemicals when trying to remove algae. They do not work and there are more efficient, natural ways to keep algae down. Add plants, reduce the amount of light, reduce the amount of feeding which supplies the algae with nutrients (brown), and adding an algae eater are much better for controlling algae. For outdoor ponds with algae problems, UV sterilizers do an amazing job of destroying the common green water problem. I would discourage the use of products like AlgaeFix, algae destroyer, etc, because they aren't going to do any good for the tank.


Thanks Eagle, I completely neglected to touch upon algae killing chemicals in my post. I'll add it in!


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## snail

Thanks for taking the time to write this post, as well as the time to educate costomers. I'd add many algae problems are from cycling or overstocked tanks. I agree, any tank can work just fine with no algae eater, however as you say they can still be useful and enjoyable. Nerite snails are my favorite algae eater.


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## Lil Gashog

Cory cats?


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## susankat

cory cats don't eat algae, they are carnivores


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## Scuff

Wow, my second sticky! I must be doing _something _right! I'll add info and updates to the original post as it becomes available, and I do still encourage people to give their thoughts and musings on the subject as well.


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## ellyabillion

Hmm, well the kale was a bust. The snails seemed to be attracted to it, though. :/ The zucchini was a hit. So is cucumber as well as spinach.


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## Scuff

Kale is a pretty hearty green, so try blanching it before adding it to the tank. I've had luck freezing it overnight as well, but keep in mind that this does break down thiamine in the plant, so it can have a negative impact over time.


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## LloydTheSnail

My apple snail eats the algae... you can see little marks over the algae where he has taken bites. Looks like artwork. c:
It helps keep algae down, but the snail can't deal with it alone.


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## ReStart

Ok, if we say or agree that no tank needs an algae eater then might one assume that no tank should have algae? I do not have a real algae problem in my 10g with two Watt cfl running on a timer 10 on and 14 off. I have a half dozen plants that seem to be doing pretty well but I get a very light coating of green algae on the tank glass which I clean weekly. Gravel seems clean and plants are clean. btw, I do not have an algae eater but had thought to get one, most likely the bristle nose.

I do not, I mean, DO NOT overfeed and I am sort afraid that my two Cory's don't get enough. I love to watch one find a bloodworm that somehow made it to the bottom.


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## M1ster Stanl3y

so can someone tell me the differences in:
Bristlenose Pleco
Clown Pleco
Common Pleco

obviously the common is the one that gets huge. Ive heard people here say that the bristlenose says relatively small. Whats the clown like. To me it looked like a common. My LFS got got fish in today and had all 3. I got myself a bristle nose for $3.49.


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## susankat

I've got clown plecos in my 220 and they usually max out at 3 inches. Bristlenose can run between 3 to 5 inches, commons can get up to 24 inches. Clowns will stay hidden most of the time and only come out at night when the lights are off.

Here is a clown pleco next to the cory


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## snail

ReStart said:


> Ok, if we say or agree that no tank needs an algae eater then might one assume that no tank should have algae? I do not have a real algae problem in my 10g with two Watt cfl running on a timer 10 on and 14 off. I have a half dozen plants that seem to be doing pretty well but I get a very light coating of green algae on the tank glass which I clean weekly. Gravel seems clean and plants are clean. btw, I do not have an algae eater but had thought to get one, most likely the bristle nose.
> 
> I do not, I mean, DO NOT overfeed and I am sort afraid that my two Cory's don't get enough. I love to watch one find a bloodworm that somehow made it to the bottom.


I think the point is that you don't NEED an algae eater, it's perfectly possible to keep a healthy tank without one. That is not to say an algae eater isn't helpful sometimes.


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## LloydTheSnail

Yeah, an algae eater is not required for a healthy tank but it helps.
I had two healthy goldfish who grew big and lived for four or so years in a small tank (must have been smaller than 7 or 8 gallons) with no filter. Just an entire water refill every few weeks. Not practical for aquariums though hah.


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## M1ster Stanl3y

did we lose Scruff? havent seen him on in a while.


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## M1ster Stanl3y

Anyone have experience with Butterfly plecos? My LFS is selling them at 3.49 a pop n they look sweet, anyone have stars for them or behavior?


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## Totem44

I have, 10 nerite snails in my forty gallon lightly planted aquarium and they do a great job with algae and they don't eat plants or breed in fresh water


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## Nik Uyr

"If you knew that eating hamburgers gave you a common cold, you would stop eating hamburgers instead of constantly dosing yourself with Nyquil...wouldn't you?" 

I love hamburgers and Nyquil.


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## Mushtang

I had a Cichlid tank for years and am about to start it up again after a several year break. 

There was a pleco in the tank that I would feed a wafer to a couple of times a week and he lived for about a year and grew to about 3 or 4 inches long. Before I got him I checked with the local shop because the Cichlids are super aggressive fish, and I was worried they'd attack the pleco. But I was assured the thick back on the pleco would protect him, and eventually they'd leave him alone.

One day I came home to find only the back "shell" of the pleco left, and they'd eaten the poor thing from underneath. 

Now I'm wondering if I should risk another pleco in my upcoming Cichlid tank. They look great, and I liked having one in there.


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## blackghostbetta

I've never had luck with bristlenose plecs. I added one to my fifty five gallon (I do scrub algae off the tank occasionally, but I was geing a pleco because I think they are funny fish, very entertaining) and it was dead within a few days. I tried one more time, and it was gone in a few hours. I have a small piece of driftwood in the tank, properly acclimated them, everything. Any advice?


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## Avocado Man

So I've read most of the posts in this thread, and it seems like people suggest supplementing the diets of algae eaters with wafers or veggie slivers (like zucchini). I have two ottos in my 20 gallon semi-planted tank, and when I first got them, I tried so many times to feed them but they would get afraid and the other fish (platys and danios) would just maul the wafers. Is there a way to feed algae eaters like ottos without tipping off the other ones? Can you "hide" a sliver of a veggie under a plant without the other fish knowing or caring? My ottos have been alive for almost a year now subsisting only on algae.

Thoughts? Thanks!


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## susankat

With oto's I never could get them to eat anything but soft algae. I have had them for 3 years and never fed them anything different. There is plecos in the tank also so they do get fresh veggies, but I never see the oto's on it.


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## susankat

blackghostbetta said:


> I've never had luck with bristlenose plecs. I added one to my fifty five gallon (I do scrub algae off the tank occasionally, but I was geing a pleco because I think they are funny fish, very entertaining) and it was dead within a few days. I tried one more time, and it was gone in a few hours. I have a small piece of driftwood in the tank, properly acclimated them, everything. Any advice?



How big were they? I have got so many bns and haven't lost any. But have found that if they are less than 1 1/2 inches they usually don't survive the stress of catching, then adjusting them to new tanks. Even when I move them to growout tanks they are usually 1 1/2 inches. They prefer cooler water so usually like it around 76 but will take it up to 78. Not much higher though.


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## Manafel

I currently am expecting to upgrade to a 90gal here in a few days and I'm wanting to use black aquarium sand as my substrate and It's going to be planted. I'm not sure on what fish I will have other then my 3 bala sharks atm, but I was wondering what would be the best algae eater for me to get? I know I don't need one, but I love plecos because they have great personalities.


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## Mikolas

Great topic. Very useful information.

Though I think that if you are going to have a topic that declares something so bold, there should be an equally well established post concerning how to ensure/prevent algae growth in one's tank. There are so many articles of how to handle algae after it's present, but nothing surefire as to how to ensure it never happens from the beginning.


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## snail

Mikolas said:


> Great topic. Very useful information.
> 
> Though I think that if you are going to have a topic that declares something so bold, there should be an equally well established post concerning how to ensure/prevent algae growth in one's tank. There are so many articles of how to handle algae after it's present, but nothing surefire as to how to ensure it never happens from the beginning.


There is no surefire way. You need to get the right balance in your aquarium between light, nutrients, CO2, fish plants etc. The problem is knowing what the right balance is. Good maintenance and sticking to basic rules and common sense works most of the time but even the best and most experienced get algae outbreaks. It's easy to see when it's gone wrong, not so easy to know when it's about to. The best thing is aim for the right balance and then deal with it if algae shows up.

I am actually a fan of algae eaters and think they can be a big plus in a well balanced tank. In my 15 gallon with shrimp and nerites I don't even have to clean the glass! I think the point of this thread is that you can have a healthy tank with out an algae eater and that adding one to your tank won't always solve an algae problem and can even make it worse. A 10 gallon tank with an algae problem caused by being overstocked wont benefit from adding a common pleco. Also an algae eater that will gobble one kind of algae might not touch another.


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## Mikolas

I have this green very fine algae that clumps up even better than java moss and am wondering what would clean that out as it has "infected" my java mosses and I can't separate them. Any thoughts on which guys can eat that?


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## AllieLovesFishies

Hi, great post. I was thinking about getting 2 Cory catfish for my 29 gallon tank. What do you think?


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## Mikolas

AllieLovesFishies said:


> Hi, great post. I was thinking about getting 2 Cory catfish for my 29 gallon tank. What do you think?


Cory's don't make good algae eaters at all as they are carnivorous, and they also are better in at least a small shoal of 5+.


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## AllieLovesFishies

Yes I do understand that. But, I am not really looking for a really good alge eater, since I do not have an alge problem. But, if you don't think that's a good idea, what would you suggest for 29 gallons? I'm only looking to get about 2 catfish, so what is your opinion?


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## Mikolas

If you want corys, I say go for either Habrosus Cory or Pygmy Corys, they are very small and grow between 3/4th to 1 inch so you can fit 5 in easily. 

There aren't too many catfish out there that do very well in smaller tanks. Most of the catfish that are fine in smaller tanks, also happen to be ones that do better in numbers unfortunately. So that is my best opinion, having 5 or so dwarf pygmy's like the one above. They will require meaty sinking foods however.


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## SuckMyCichlids

Hey i was just noticing the lack of talk on snails and shrimp and was wondering how much of an impact do they make on the whole algae eater thing?


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## SuckMyCichlids

bumping thread?


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## nhwoj

snails, guys! who wants to show some love for a few good old algae eating snails...


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## susankat

Snails and shrimp make good algae eaters, but as with anything else they don't eat all algae.

Snails if you get to many of them can be detrimental to the tank so you have to be able to keep them under control.


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## JohnniGade

Nice thread! Good read


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## Zolbaxil

I have 3 Plecos in my 125g. One Sailfin that we call "Sir Poopsalot", a royal named Vlad. (its the red eyes) and a little wide mouth pleco named Loud Howard. Vlad has a ton of driftwood to rasp, Howard and Sir Poopsalot feed on what ever algae grows on the back glass, occasional zucchini, and wafers as a staple. I know that eventually I am going to have to get a larger tank for Poopers, but he's doing fine and is probably my favorite non chiclid in the tank.

I must say that I agree with not purchasing a fish for utilitarian use. It's sort of like having kids so you have someone to take out the trash....


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## apatel40

Hi there, does anybody have any ideas why my aquarium constantly grows algae. Here is my set up:

75 litre tank, marina S20 slim filter, sandstone rocks, black pebbles. marine blue and white glo light left on 15 hours a day, tank next to window, change 50% water every week. The tank still grows alot of green algae for some reason. any ideas people? many thanks


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## susankat

apatel40 said:


> Hi there, does anybody have any ideas why my aquarium constantly grows algae. Here is my set up:
> 
> 75 litre tank, marina S20 slim filter, sandstone rocks, black pebbles. marine blue and white glo light left on 15 hours a day, tank next to window, change 50% water every week. The tank still grows alot of green algae for some reason. any ideas people? many thanks


Wrong kind of lights, next to window so getting sunlight and leaving lights on for 15 hours a day.

Marine lights aren't good for fw. You need regular daylight bulbs in the area of 5000 to 6500k. Being that the tank also gets sunlight will cause algae outbreaks. Lights should only be on 8 to 10 hours max if you have plants. If you don't have live plants, just have the light on when your home viewing the tank.


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## ElChef194

susankat said:


> cory cats don't eat algae, they are carnivores


sorry if someone quoted this already, but i gotta ask, they are? everything i have read on them states they are omnivorous. i mean mine eat both algae wafers i feed my pleco, and shrimp pellets. they love em both!

also this post made me realize that i have no driftwood in my 20 gal for my clown pleco, so i took a piece from my 29 gal and transferred it over.


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## maple rookie

Amano shrimp is a great algae eater. Also, some algae eaters only eat a certain kind of algae and not all so when looking for one you need to think about what you need the eater to tackle..
In my humble opinion, some tanks do need algae eaters especially planted tanks with say, ADA soil in its initial set up stage. And they keep things looking nice as the tank matured. Just my 2 cents.


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## Bob-O

Sorry, I'm drunk and skipped a lot of posts. RCS were my first wave, followed by otos.

Bristlenose plecos were my choice after otos, but otos are small, friendly and schooling like most fish in my tank. Plus it's got a lot of plants... so I have 7 otos in addition to 70ish RCS (conservative estimate). I rarely have to scrape green off the front.


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## fishboy

I have 2 otos in a lightly planted 10 whats going on its not even close to clean


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## navigator black

There is no way any algae eater will keep up with a tank that heavily overstocked. The otos are probably spending more time trying to keep from getting killed by the Chinese Algae Eater than they are eating.

Algae eaters help those who help themselves. They don't clean. They eat what they need to survive, and nothing more. So if they aren't keeping up, you have to figure out what you are doing wrong, not what they are.


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## M11dna00

I've got four dawrf golden otos , I initially got them to eat algae, but I sorted that out by cutting down on lights, and over feeding. But I love these little suckers, and will always keep them.


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## rtmaston

thanks for the info.i was looking for one to put in my tank that would eat bread algae.i did google and it said Siamese algae eaters would eat it.


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## wareagleu

I have not found an algea eater that my cichlids will let live with themes


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## dalfed

What type of cichlids?


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## wareagleu

Its 3 jack Dempsey's, 2 green terrors, 2 red terrors, and a red devil. I've thought about trying snails but not sure of what kind and they would probably be hard to find in my area


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## silvergourami1

Unless the aquarist has a large tank or getting a really large tank than I would advise against plecos. They need the space to grow and flourish. A better and far more compatible species are cory's. For the most part these species and the pleco's are incapable of really reducing algae if there is a lot of it. So other options have to be considered.

Traditionally algae control it is about proper lighting(avoid any direct tank sunlight or even partial tank sunlight), filter media and maybe chemical algae reducers, but then this will probably affect plants if the aquarium has them. 

if you have plants reducing iron is a bad idea as they need this, but a person could reduce it a little if there is a problem.


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## kicksilver

I wonder why nobody thus far has mentioned using platys for algae control. My quarantine tank had two decorative snail shells in it, one baseball sized, and one softball sized. They both where solid green with thick algae growth, because I had strong-ish lighting and only anubias. I purchased a small group of 4 platys, and within the first week of quarantine, even with daily feedings, they picked the shells clean!
I couldn't believe it, I hadn't even seen such effective cleanup from the common pleco I used to have. 
When a platy is eating plentiful amounts of algae, it's eyes turn bright green. This really makes them pop and become even more beautiful than before!


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## jason1245

Zuchinni and peas were mentioned in the above article but are there any vegetables to stay away from? I normally keep a little bucket of vegetables scraps from cookin then eventually put in in my compost.. What you suggest?


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## susankat

silvergourami1 said:


> Unless the aquarist has a large tank or getting a really large tank than I would advise against plecos. They need the space to grow and flourish. A better and far more compatible species are cory's. For the most part these species and the pleco's are incapable of really reducing algae if there is a lot of it. So other options have to be considered.
> 
> Traditionally algae control it is about proper lighting(avoid any direct tank sunlight or even partial tank sunlight), filter media and maybe chemical algae reducers, but then this will probably affect plants if the aquarium has them.
> 
> if you have plants reducing iron is a bad idea as they need this, but a person could reduce it a little if there is a problem.


There are plenty of small plecos that a person can choose from. Plus the fact that cories are omnivores and don't eat algae. they might pick at it trying to get to the little microscopic creatures that are in there. Chemical reducers can be very harmful to livestock.

Oh and I do have several tanks in the 30 to 40 gal range with pleco groups.


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## Botiadancer

I vote for otos as number one algae eater, then ancistrus. Chaetostoma a distant 3rd. All others.... nevermind

Avoiding algae in non planted tanks is easy.... cut back on your light and do your water changes and don't overstock.

Does anyone leave flat rocks in a bucket of tank water out in the sun until it is covered in algae and then feed it to your otos/ancistrus? By rotating them you can always have a fresh supply of algae for them to nibble on. Other fish like to pick at it too.

Otherwise the Hikari mini and regular algae tablets are the best!

And I agree - keep fish that nibble on algae because you like them!!!


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## drakegonnon123

im getting a ton of bristle noses, but they are a long fined. will they clean up as well?


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## snowghost45

I have a 33 planted gallon fish tank, 3 angles, 2 danios and one golden wonder killi fish. Not sure if I have the description in the right order on the wonder fish. I have had two bristle nose plecos disappear. Are they dying and being eaten? What would be a good small algae eater for this size tank. I've already went through the regular plecos only to give them to the pet store when they out grow tanks.

Thanks!


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## garstrom

Boy, Thanks for the wealth of info, great article and very informative, I'll have to bookmark it for future references..
Thanks again


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## coralbandit

I'm going with ottos.Plecos will eat algae,but also need wood ,and mine spend alot time on clean wood.I don't expect ottos to clean up for too much lighting or bad water,but think they wiould be the most effective choice.
Algae is best controlled by the amount of light(time on)best.


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## Botiadancer

For what its worth, I was at a C.O.A.S.T. club meeting today and Dr. Paul Loiselle said his favorite algae eater was a Garra species - I think it was Garra flavatra. (a diminutive one also known as Panda Garra) Said they were great in planted tanks too!

If you don't know who Loiselle is, lets just say he is a well published ichyologist and also the curator of freshwater fishes at the New York Aquarium. Great bios about him online and his cichlid books are must reads.

I'm sticking with what I said earlier - Otos first, Bushy nose a close second.


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## dalfed

Nerite snails for anything on glass. 4 of them cleaned my 40 gallon breeder algae experiment tank in 3 days.


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## Ace626

I cant find information on the one I have
I think its called dracula or something like that
its all black with white spots


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## coralbandit

DRACULA PLECO L007 -medium


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## Ace626

coralbandit said:


> DRACULA PLECO L007 -medium


Yes!!! thats the one, except mine as white dots


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## harmjoy

When I first started keeping fish I got a 10 gallon tank and a 2" sailfin pleco. Guess who has a 120 gallon tank and a 14" pleco now? LOL. It's all his fault!


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## TimH

Oto Cats are amazing! They went to work on my tank and it looked ship shape in a matter of days. Best ever!


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## PlecostomusPlaysCoz2Much

The best "algae eaters" are bottom feeders that eat the wasted food before it feeds the algae. 
I also believe a full carpet of Java moss helps somehow. I don’t know how, but I’ve been fighting algae for over 40yrs and I swear it does.


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