# The bug has bit me again! Setting up another tank!



## woody019 (Oct 4, 2012)

Long story short I have been browsing the web the past couple of days looking at future livestock for my 75g reef tank and boom! I have get an idea for setting up another tank :fish-in-a-bag:. What caught my eye was the peacock/clown mantis shrimp (Odontodactylus scyllarus). So after hours of research and learning the tank setup is "simple," "cheap"(using those terms lightly, comparing it to a reef setup) and how interesting/unique the mantis shrimp is. But not so much the cost, as the "simplicity" of the setup. I've decided I want to do a dedicated mantis tank :fish-in-bowl:.

Here is a run down on my planned setup. Please chime in with any suggestions you may have. They will be greatly appreciated!

- *40g breeder* (that ill drill and plumb myself, I know this is not the simplest and/or least expensive route and could get away with a canister filter or HOB filter. But now having a tank with a sump, Ill never have another tank without one. Plus if I'm going to set up another tank I'm going to do it the best way possible the first time around. Ive learned the hard way in this hobby there's nothing worse then doing something the easiest, fastest way possible then later down the line not liking it and having to deal with re-doing/fixing everything on the tank at that point is running with livestock).


As far as plumbing and I know its gonna be overkill, but I like redundancies and in my opinion looks the cleanest. I will be setting up a bean animal land drainage with a custom made black acrylic coast to coast overflow box from MelevsReef (where I purchased the CTC overflow box on my 75g). The 40g will be setup inside the tank the same as my 75g.

I also plan on siliconing on a piece of plexiglass on the bottom pane of glass. Just for piece of mind that if the mantis shrimp burrows all the way down and decides its wants to try to pound its way out of the tank. I won't have to worry about myself being one of those freak stories you hear about a mantis shrimp breaking the tank glass *cool-dude.

- *10g DIY sump* (only to hide all the equipment, plus I like easy access)


In the sump a heater, ATO, a Tunze 9002 (that I already have not in use) and a return pump (that I also already have not in use).

Maybe down the line Ill add some cheat but for the time being I want to keep the setup as "low tech" as possible for a lack of better words.

- *5"-6" sand bed in the DT* (for the purpose that every source I read recommended 1" of sand for every inch the mantis is. Seeing that it needs a place to burrow and get complete darkness.)


I would do half CaribSea Arag-Alive Indo-Pacific Black (to mimic natural habitat) and half "dry" sand to save on costs. If the calculator I used is correct in order to get a 6" DSB I would need 158lbs of sand. At $28 for a 20lb bag of the live sand I want to correlates to much more money then I want to spend *r2.

- *Scattered crushed coral on top of the sand* (for "building materials")

- *Reef rubble also scattered on the top of the sand* (for "building materials.")


I have about 15lbs of assorted sized reef rubble that I picked up off the beach in Aruba 2 weeks ago currently sitting in the sump of my running 75g tank on top of the 5lbs I brought back from the bahamas a little over a year ago. In order to seed the new tank.

- *20-30lbs of live rock* (larger pieces just enough to create a couple different spots for the mantis to burrow under. I want to keep the live rock to a minimum because I read that a more open tank is preferable because it gives the mantis a sense of security, that it can better see approaching predators. Not that there will be any in a tank to himself)


I was thinking about just getting dry base rock and seeding it with small pieces of live rock from my 75. But decided to go with live rock because of the fact it looks nicer, better selection of shapes and sizes and most of all more porous.

Even though I'll be purchasing some live rock I will still seed it with a small piece or two from my 75g, on top of the seeded reef rubble.

- *Jebao wavemaker for cirulation*


I run a wp-10 and wp-40 on my 75g reef tank and for price of what you get. It will be the only pump I buy, at least until I get out of college and can afford the luxury of a eotech.

Im hoping coral bandit or someone else that has experience with these waver makers can guide me with the size model I will need for a 40g breeder. Im thinking the Jebao WP-25. That way I know it will be powerful enough (not that Im going to need real strong flow) and at the same time of its to powerful at its lowest setting I can just easily swap it out with the WP-10 in my 75g reef tank.

- *A dirt cheap dimmable LED light fixture* (it has to be a dimmable LED fixture, just because I'm all about LED's )


I haven't decided on what fixture to get yet. So any recommendations will be appreciated. Keeping in mind mantis shrimp, Odontodactylus scyllarus in particular are sensitive to "bright" lighting because this species most of the time tends to live in deeper water with "lesser" light. In the sense "bright" lights can/will put stress on the animal and can/will cause shell rot.

I will be looking for a fixture that will be bare minimum enough to be able to see into the entire tank clearly and not have to squint. I am not going to be doing any coral. If I can grow some hitchhiker macro on the live rock that would be great, but doesn't matter if the light isn't "bright" enough.

- *Lastly is a DIY Canopy*


To mount a light fixture and not have to worry about the mantis shrimp being able to jump out of open top (i.e. no glass/plastic tank hood)




If you have made it to reading this far, my apologies for the amount of detail I put into the post! *pc But as you already know its easier to reply to a post that has all the details, opposed to one that is short and leaves you asking a bunch of questions trying to figure out the entire situation.

*THANK YOU FOR READING AND AGAIN PLEASE CHIME IN WITH ANY SUGGESTIONS YOU MAY HAVE!*


----------



## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Sounds like a good plan.I had 3 mantis shrimp all together when I stocked my 75 with live rock.They were a serious PIA to get out!They were not that active nor did I ever notice any damage,but IMO they still had to go.I just brought mine back to my LFS and they actually sold them.They weren't very colorful.
The only change I would make is fitting the largest sump possible in the stand.I am with you on the whole overflow sump thing though.If it is not a breeder/breeding/fry tank I will never run another tank without surface extraction and sump.Once you get the best nothing comes close!
I would think if you plan no other "delicate " items that a good actinic light with a low power daylight would be all you need and be best for the shrimp.
The three I had never came out with lights on!
On a side note ;once you get over 400g or 8 tanks I think signing up for FA(fish Anonymous) is mandatory?You're very close!(I'll see you there?)
Check into these lights;4 x Reefbar Combo 3ft Aquarium LED Light Reef Bar 36" inch 36 108W Grow Coral | eBay
They seem to be the same as Current true lumen PRO but at a fraction of the cost.The kit comes with [email protected]',2 power supplies(meaning timer is an option for ramp up, or you could run upto 3 bars on a different tank),and wireless dimmersx2.
1 4' current true lumen bar cost the same as that kit without transformer($50 for current) or dimmers!I really love my currents but could have 4X the lighting for what I spent.


----------



## woody019 (Oct 4, 2012)

Did you have the smaller species? Also were they hammer or scissor claw? Im going to do a larger species and have my mind set on the peacock/clown mantis shrimp (hammer claw) that in an aquarium is common to get 6," the reason why he/she will be in the tank alone. Also being one of the most colorful ones available. I know it all depends on the animal and aquascape (this species supposedly one of the most active and have personality) but my hopes are to luck out and get one that you see on youtube. One with personality, every time the feeder comes to the tank they recognize them and are out and about checking him/her out. I guess a person could I want to do a predator tank without having to get a very large setup which = more $ than I can of afford now!

I figure while I'm waiting for one to pop up to buy (I have a found a site that currently has them in stock which can change), it'll stop me from buying one right after the tank cycles (the temptation is unbearable haha). Which we both know means a more mature and stable tank.

Your absolutely right about the sump! I will tell people that then neglect it when I'm setting up a tank, the reason why I come here before doing anything. To get a good smack on the back of the head before buying anything. But now that you say that...IDK what I'm going to do about the stand. For the price the stores are asking around here, the materials to build my own which would be easier to work under for the same price if not cheaper. I just got thinking I could ask my buddys dad who has been in house construction and worked with crafting things out of wood his whole life to help me (don't have the tools/skills to make a good looking stand myself).

With that in mind I could build the stand around the sump size. *What are your opinions on a 30 breeder?* Although only 12" tall I like the fact that its deep. So if I ever decide to change the "theme" of the tank I would have plenty of room for equipment and whatever else I may decide to do. 

Thank you for the light suggestion! I was looking at it and although it would be more then I need (thats what dimmers are for). For one if I decide to switch up the tank after the mantis it would be plenty for coral. Second I like the price for all the features it has. Way better then the chinsy lights I was looking at!



coralbandit said:


> On a side note ;once you get over 400g or 8 tanks I think signing up for FA(fish Anonymous) is mandatory?You're very close!(I'll see you there?)


Im with you on that one, signing up for FA at 400g should be mandatory! My parents and girlfriend already think I have an issue *r2. But yet they all enjoy watching my tanks, I guess they see all the work and money that goes into keeping pristine tanks that most people don't don't know about. You without a doubt see me in the 400g+ FA meetings in the near future! Total water volume in the house after the 40 breeder w/30 gallon sump will put me conservatively roughly at 300g.


----------



## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Yikes --

If you count sumps, I just realized I'm over 400G...

180G + 75G sump 
75G + 20G sump
93G cube
30G cube

---------------
473G total...

Uhoh.


----------



## woody019 (Oct 4, 2012)

Forgot to add that if "I" end up building a stand from scratch I will be integrating my biocube that doesn't have the back piece of acrylic that separated the tank from the back chambers. My thought is that I could hide it and its equipment under the stand and use it a QT and even may plumb it into the 40g DT system. When needed I could just isolate the tank with a ball valve and just clean the tank before opening the ball valve back up. 

Maybe I'm just rambling and throwing out crazy ideas. Ill have to sit done and draw a diagram of everything and make a list.


----------



## woody019 (Oct 4, 2012)

zwanged said:


> Yikes --
> 
> If you count sumps, I just realized I'm over 400G...
> 
> ...


Need to get you the FA meeting times! I included the sumps but roughly on the high side subtracted the amount of water that the rock, sand, equipment....etc displaces.


----------



## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

zwanged said:


> Yikes --
> 
> If you count sumps, I just realized I'm over 400G...
> 
> ...


I've been looking for you!
We are in different states so I don't think we would be at the same meetings.I've been told I should go to as many meetings as possible(even out of state if I had too!)and as far as the law goes I don't think they count sumps,that would put me over 1,000 easy!*r2


----------



## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

woody019 said:


> Forgot to add that if "I" end up building a stand from scratch I will be integrating my biocube that doesn't have the back piece of acrylic that separated the tank from the back chambers. My thought is that I could hide it and its equipment under the stand and use it a QT and even may plumb it into the 40g DT system. When needed I could just isolate the tank with a ball valve and just clean the tank before opening the ball valve back up.
> 
> Maybe I'm just rambling and throwing out crazy ideas. Ill have to sit done and draw a diagram of everything and make a list.


A Qt could go anywhere ,so I would not waste precious cabinet space.QT could be in basement or anywhere(help in controlling the addiction*r2).I don't think I would hook it up to DT either just in case?
The lights could be run just 1 strip with dimmer.The beauty of the system is you could actuall have all 4 on 1 power source or only 1 strip on its own source.The transformers are only like $9 compared to current($50) and I believe will run upto 16LF of strip each.All my tanks run on the true lumen pros.The actinc(deep blue)or the fusion(mix daylight and actinic) are very nice and natural looking.The 12k are out right bright!I have like 24 LF of these even on my FW 180.They and the co2 are why my plants just keep going crazy!The reef bar actually has real par ratings listed on the bottom of the link page.I'm just going to have to get some myself here sooner or later.


----------



## woody019 (Oct 4, 2012)

Just an update...I currently have a 40g breeder set up and running with a peacock mantis shrimp called Drago in it. Although I still have some things to do. The tank is running with a empty protein skimmer just for circulation until I get around to plumbing the tank and siliconing baffles into the 20g long sump. I already drilled the tank installed the bulkhead and siliconed a overflow box in. 

As for the light the desk lamp with a LED bulb is temparary until I get my package thursday. Long story short I don't like how narrow the light projection with the two 165W eBay LED fixtures on the 75g reef (165W Dimmable Full Spectrum LED Aquarium Light Marine Reef Coral Fish Tank Lamp | eBay). 

So I'm going to take both of them off and use one on my 40g on a very low setting. As for my 75 I decided to give the ReefBars you suggested in an earlier post a try. I just bought sunday 4x ReefBars 48" (4 x Reefbar Combo 4ft Aquarium LED Light Reef Bar 48" inch 48 140W Grow Coral | eBay). I decided against 6 because of the overhang of my overflow box and thought I could save the money and get the programmer while I was at it. I am hoping that these ReefBars are going to be powerful enough for the tank but we will find out soon enough and I will post an update when I get them installed.

Anyways here are some photos of the tank and of Drago hope you enjoy! I should also note that all of the reef rubble I scattered all over the tank has now since been arranged all around Drago's cave by no other then himself.

In the process of uploading a couple video's of him with a emerald crab dinner on youtube that ill post the link as soon as they are done uploading.


----------



## woody019 (Oct 4, 2012)

Part 1 don't mind me talking to my girlfriend in the background or the vertical iPhone 6+ view! I will be sure to hold the phone horizontally next time oops!

Drago the Peacock Mantis Shrimp vs. Emerald Crab Part 1 - YouTube


----------



## woody019 (Oct 4, 2012)

Part 2

Drago the Peacock Mantis Shrimp vs. Emerald Crab Part 2 - YouTube


----------



## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

AWESOME videos!!!!!!!!!
I could hear him hitting the crab!
That is how I knew I had the ones in my tank.
And DUDE I am so phsyched to hear you are getting the reef bars.
I DEFINATELY WANT TO HEAR ALL ABOUT THEM, FROM SHIPPING TO HOW BRIGHT YOU THINK THEY ARE AND RESULTS!
WAITING!!!!!!!!


----------



## woody019 (Oct 4, 2012)

Coral bandit thank you! I have to take the videos horizontally next time though haha the sound quality in the video does the hits no justice the only time he hit with full power is when he shattered the claws and knocked them off. A sound not hard to distinguish as you know! The white spots on his shell are from shipping stress they have since "healed" up for a lack of better terms. 

The reef bars are coming thursday and ill take pictures of everything! Im hoping they turn out a "bang for the buck" and at minimum meet my expectations. I did hours of research before I committed to buying them. Only 2 posts came up 1 person said they were junk (older model) and the other person loved them. That was pretty much it though neither got into detail about the parts quality, shipping, light output quality etc... which was useless information. So I figure I would be the test subject and due an in depth review of the reefbars for everyone *r2. I decided on 4 x 4ft bars because the overflow box covers the back of the tank where I would install the last 2 on a 6 bar package. I got 2 x 12k, 1 x 2:1(12k/blue), 1 x Actinic Blue light bars. 

I also just bought a Seneye reef monitor with PAR meter to get actual measurements (Seneye Reef Device - Reef Radiance). Thought it would also be nice to be able to be able to take a lot of guessing trying to place coral in the future. It also gives a lot more data then just PAR readings. To save typing it reads a total of 7 different things that is right on the page I posted right above and from what I read would be plenty accurate enough for my applications. Its only $200 compared to a Apogee Quantum at $400 that only reads PAR.


----------

