# 29 gallon tank problems



## PlecoJello87 (Jul 31, 2014)

Hello

I am new to fishkeeping. I have a 29 gallon tank that was started 5 weeks ago. I have 6 cardinal tetras, 3 cherry barbs, 2 bandit cory, a 2" clown pleco 1.5" BN and 1.5" albino BN.

I have had a problem with fish dying. I originally had 4 tigers barbs instead of cardinals. They all died. That was probably because I added fish too quickly before my tank cycled. Now that I have these fish in there and my tank is cycled I have had a problem with bronze and bandit cories dying. Are they sensitive to water conditions? I have had a problem with the water getting cloudy quickly (like 5 days) and the Amazon Sword plant I have is dying. I use the test strips and it doesnt seem to show anything is off. 

I think my thermometer (a cheap $3 one) doesn't work correctly. It usually reads 65-70F but the water feels warm and the current occupants are doing fine.

In the past few days I've been feeding them about half as much as I was. I'd like to solve this problem as I have ordered a small striped raphael and a small spotted raphael. I plan to get a 2nd tank (55 or 75) and move the clown pleco and a raphael out of this one.

Also I imagine if I can get the problem fixed I can add either 6 more cardinals or 6 emperor tetras.


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## swimwiththefishes (Jul 31, 2014)

PlecoJello87 said:


> Hello
> 
> I am new to fishkeeping. I have a 29 gallon tank that was started 5 weeks ago. I have 6 cardinal tetras, 3 cherry barbs, 2 bandit cory, a 2" clown pleco 1.5" BN and 1.5" albino BN.
> 
> ...


Howdy,
I am new here and what i say is just my opinion, Im going to look at this objectively as i to have a NEW 30 and have fish in the tank while im cycling.
ok...for me...as soon as you doubt your equipment start there! 
#1 Small investment i have the lame sticky thermo (glass) and internal thermo prolly like 3 bucks as well i watch both and compare frequently. 
#2 WQ monitoring (test strips are better than nothing) but I would recommend getting the kit (vials) way more accurate 30 bucks if whatever equipment you are using isnt giving you the facts its basically decoration and or make believe and you CAN NOT effectively manage the tank.
Starting with that then you can effectively determine and or deduce why certain things are happening. I always tend to work through steps till i reach the problem then try and find the solution. 
*(IF NOT SURE on Accuracy of WQ....take a sample to LFS and get it tested and compare with the results you are getting)
* (if a plant is dying in the tank and your readings are normal I would say something is not right TEST wise)
Thats all i can say at this time Start at the Heart and work forward. when you can confirm and can say NO this water is fine than move forward with trouble shooting. But for me I would start with basics. CONFIRM WQ! do water change.

cheers


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

Welcome to the forum.

Best place to start would be at least 50% water change since you don't state what your parameters are.

Get yourself a liquid test kit and until then take a sample to your lfs and have it tested, write those numbers down. You want actual numbers for ph, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Post them here in this thread.

Get a new thermometer sounds like the one you have is in default. $3 ones are fine but as with anything else it could be bad.

What is your maintenance schedule? Water changes percentage is based on your parameter readings but should be done weekly.

Do not put any rapheals into that tank. They will outgrow it pretty fast. Wait till you get a 75 gal at least. I had 3 striped rapheals that were 10 inches each.

I would suspect the deaths that you are experiencing is from the fish going through the cycling process which without a lot of water changes is poisonous to fish.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

I agree with ^^^.
Get a decent (still cheap) glass thermometer that floats in the water.The stick on glass type can actually be effected by room temp.
Your Temp should not be swinging like it is (5 degrees is a lot to change regulary).
Possibly you need a larger heater so the temp can be maintained properly.
Cloudy water is a bacterial inbalance usaully caused by overfeeding so feed less,all food should be eaten in 2 minutes(none leftover).
I see no mention of waterchanges?Even after a tank is cycled waterchanges are still needed.Many here do weekly WC upto 50%.
Plants can take much longer to acclimate then fish and generally you need to look at new growth and not how the existing leaves are doing.The existing leaves may very well die off but as long as you have new growth the plant should be fine.Lighting is pretty important for plants.Your bulb needs to be 5,500-10,000K(temp in Kelvin).


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