# DIY aquarium decors



## aquanox24 (Apr 25, 2014)

Hi all,

i'm new here and would like to ask some questions regarding DIY rocks, caves etc. One method i read about was using foam and cement.
However i also read that cement is not 100% safe for fishes.

For example, i made a DIY foam cliff. Next would be to add the cement right?
But instead of cement, can i use silicone GE1, spread a thin layer all over the surface of the foam cliff, followed by lots of sand over the silicone. it would stick the sand thus covering the entire foam.

Is this method feasible?

Any help will be appreciated!


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## Alasse (Mar 12, 2009)

I tried this, it looks great but sadly doesn't last very long.  Is not suitable for any type of pleco, as the demolish it even faster










I had to fully empty the tank and repair it quite often, tis easy to fix, but its the 24hour wait until you can refill the tank (for it to cure safely)

I now do foam, render and sealer. Gives a much nicer finish and a hardier end product


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## aquanox24 (Apr 25, 2014)

Thanks for the help!

perhaps i should stick with real rocks....although heavier and more expensive.


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## aquanox24 (Apr 25, 2014)

Here's my first attempt at decorating a 10gallon tank. Still abit cloudy, been two days only.
Hopefully couple of water changes later everything will be fine



What kind of fishes are recommended for this setup?


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Welcome to the forum.

What's your experience level with keeping fish? Do you have a freshwater test kit? Are you familiar with the cycling process, do you already have other tanks?

Cool rocks...Do you plan to keep live plants in this tank as well?

A suggestion:
Maybe try starting with a school of 6-8 *smaller* tetras (e.g. Neons), then later on add in a group of 5 corydoras catfish (many types/colors)? 

Use aqadvisor.com to figure out what stocking levels are appropriate for that size tank. 

-Zeke


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## Arthur7 (Feb 22, 2013)

For the initial question: if one sells this decoration rock, he will also have tested it. But natural stones are much nicer. It should be stalwarts or pebbles, no ores or very colorful stones. also limestones are not always good.
It is best to go at low water to the river. There you can according to the imagination the most beautiful collect. these are usually rounded. This is an advantage in the aquarium.
I have in each basin a large round stone in the center. like two hands so big. It is a matter of taste. But it is an advantage in the purification. Another I have in reserve. If beard algae growing on it, he is placed on the radiator until it is dry. As long as I do the other into it ..


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## aquanox24 (Apr 25, 2014)

I have just started this hobby about one month back.
I have an ammonia kit, nitrite kit and a PH kit.
In my country, we used tap water and de-chlorinate it.
However it still belongs to hard water with PH of 7.5 and above.
I kept 7 cardinal tetras, two panda corys, two albino corys and 2 chinese lagae eaters in this tank.
This was what it looked like before with fake plants.

Now with the new setup, would the above group fit in?
I think the algae eaters would probably faint inside since im not going to put any plants.

And for the new tank, im going to do water changes every other day till it clears up and leave it running with the pump on for 2 weeks, get all the stats correct before putting any fishes in. Am i correct?


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

I'm confused... is this a second 10 gallon tank (and your fish are still currently in the first 10 gallon tank)? And you plan to move the fish from the previous tank to the new tank? Please explain.

Here's a summary of what cycling the tank (establishing beneficial bacteria that break down waste properly) is:

Nitrogen cycle:

Fish waste (Ammonia -- toxic!) ==> Nitrite (very toxic!) => Nitrate (only toxic in high concentrations, >=40ppm). Different species of nitrifying bacteria break down ammonia from nitrite and from nitrite to nitrate. You need both populations of bacteria to be well established in order to have a healthy tank.

You should also get a nitrate test kit to see that your current tank is even properly cycled. I wouldn't move fish around between tanks so early on, it's unlikely your first tank is even properly established.

What are your current water parameters on your tank that has fish in it? What are your ammonia and nitrite readings on the tank with fish in them?

Thanks,
-Zeke



aquanox24 said:


> I have just started this hobby about one month back.
> I have an ammonia kit, nitrite kit and a PH kit.
> In my country, we used tap water and de-chlorinate it.
> However it still belongs to hard water with PH of 7.5 and above.
> ...


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

I'm confused... is this a second 10 gallon tank (and your fish are still currently in the first 10 gallon tank)? And you plan to move the fish from the previous tank to the new tank? Please explain.

Here's a summary of what cycling the tank (establishing beneficial bacteria that break down waste properly) is:

Nitrogen cycle:

Fish waste (Ammonia -- toxic!) ==> Nitrite (very toxic!) => Nitrate (only toxic in high concentrations, >=40ppm). Different species of nitrifying bacteria break down ammonia from nitrite and from nitrite to nitrate. You need both populations of bacteria to be well established in order to have a healthy tank.

You should also get a nitrate test kit to see that your current tank is even properly cycled. I wouldn't move fish around between tanks so early on, it's unlikely your first tank is even properly established.

What are your current water parameters on your tank that has fish in it? What are your ammonia and nitrite readings on the tank with fish in it?

Thanks,
-Zeke



aquanox24 said:


> I have just started this hobby about one month back.
> I have an ammonia kit, nitrite kit and a PH kit.
> In my country, we used tap water and de-chlorinate it.
> However it still belongs to hard water with PH of 7.5 and above.
> ...


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## aquanox24 (Apr 25, 2014)

Hi Zeke,

Sorry to confuse you.

Yes i have 2 ten gallons tanks. The tank with the fishes, ammonia and nitrite levels are 0, and i water change 30% every week. Only the PH is high, about 8.

The new tank with the big rock, i was thinking about putting other species of fishes that would suit this setup.


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Ah I see, that makes sense. You should probably pick up a nitrate test kit so you can confirm the presence nitrates in the first tank (and for testing your new tank).

At that point (if you *see* the presence of nitrates (ideally some value < 30ppm), then you can be confident you're cycled there. But the other readings being at zero is a good indirect indicator.

If you use the API nitrate kit, just remember to follow the instructions carefully (you need to shake the second bottle vigorously for at least 30 seconds prior to adding the drops to the test tube, and after adding the second set of drops to that test tube, you need to shake it very vigorously for at least 1 minute.)

By the way, I like how your first tank looked. I think the chinese algae eaters will probably outgrow that tank pretty quickly...Be careful with that. Try putting that list of fish into aqadvisor.

As far as the second tank, I think other people here would be able to better recommend fish than myself, all my tanks are more than 30 gallons so I'm not an expert on what's suitable for smaller, 10 gallon tanks. 

Thanks!
-Zeke




aquanox24 said:


> Hi Zeke,
> 
> Sorry to confuse you.
> 
> ...


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## Alasse (Mar 12, 2009)

Arthur7 said:


> For the initial question: if one sells this decoration rock, he will also have tested it. But natural stones are much nicer. It should be stalwarts or pebbles, no ores or very colorful stones. also limestones are not always good..


Ahhh but with render i can make any colour i like and not have to worry about it leaching anything (if a sealent is used, which i do). I can also make any size or shape i require, and i can make multiples of the same rock. With natural stone you have to take what you find.


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## aquanox24 (Apr 25, 2014)

Hi,

I am thinking of getting a black ghost knife fish as they looked really cool.
but i read they need a much bigger tank than my pitiful 10 gallon.

How about a dwarf gourami, 4-5 tetras and maybe 3 corys?
I think my cliff tank setup isn't really suited for any fishes =(


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## zwanged (Nov 4, 2012)

Maybe consider doing a betta fish of some sort? (they are aggressive, especially males, so best kept singly I think for that size tank). Other people can maybe weigh in here. Try putting in your scenarios into aqadvisor as a rough guide.

-Zeke



aquanox24 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am thinking of getting a black ghost knife fish as they looked really cool.
> but i read they need a much bigger tank than my pitiful 10 gallon.
> ...


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## hotwingz (Mar 3, 2013)

A beta would work well in a tank like that (I like your work btw) and if you would consider adding plants fake or real your could put anything suitable for a tank that size. But most fish don't do well with out pLanta or other hiding places.


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## aquanox24 (Apr 25, 2014)

Hi,

i have a problem now. i have a 3 gallon tank that house a betta and two corys.
My nitrite and nitrate level are very high. Ammonia levels are close to 0.
When my ammonia gets close to 0, it would mean the bacteria breaking down ammonia is present. Thus nitrites level shoots up. Nitrates comes from nitrite, so if i am getting a high reading on nitrate, i should be getting a low reading on nitrite. but i getting very high levels on nitrite and nitrate. 

What went wrong? Please correct me if i am wrong about the nitrogen cycle.

I bought the API quick start hoping to save my fishes and quickly introduce bacteria that would bring my nitrite down.

Thanks,
Bad novice owner =(


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## hotwingz (Mar 3, 2013)

How old is the tank and when was the last water change?


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## aquanox24 (Apr 25, 2014)

This tank was set up 2 weeks ago with pump and filter running constantly. I was new and made a foolish mistake of listening to the aquarium shop staff who told me 2 days would be enough before I put my betta in....

Last water change was done 5 days ago.....about 30%


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

You need to change water to get nitrites to 1ppm or under.They can be more deadly to fish than ammonia.The % of water changed is the % you will lower the nutrient.
4ppm nitrite would need 75% water changed to get to 1 ppm/ 2 @ 50% would give the same result.


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## aquanox24 (Apr 25, 2014)




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## aquanox24 (Apr 25, 2014)

Anybody able to advise? 
I just started growing plants in my aquarium, mainly hairgrass and what i believe is dwarf tears. im not quite sure about the lighting and its wattage. Its a LED light. My tank is only 3-4gallons. Each day i turn on the light for about 5 hrs and about 1ml of flourish excel when the light is on.

But my plants are still turning brown/transparent.
What did i do wrong?


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Plants do actually osmoregulate ,so they may still be acclimating to your tank.Don't pay as much attention to condition of old growth but more look for new growth and its condition.Might want to bump your light time up to 8 hrs.
Even with both things I mention the baby tears may be diffacult?I believe they like really high light and prefer co2?
You may want to look into ferts also besides just the excell.


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## Buerkletucson (Apr 8, 2014)

coralbandit said:


> Plants do actually *osmoregulate* ,so they may still be acclimating to your tank.Don't pay as much attention to condition of old growth but more look for new growth and its condition.Might want to bump your light time up to 8 hrs.
> Even with both things I mention the baby tears may be diffacult?I believe they like really high light and prefer co2?
> You may want to look into ferts also besides just the excell.


Holy crap.....that's one heck of a word and I learned something new today!

Here's for others like me that might be a little English challenged.....




> Osmoregulation...
> is the active regulation of the osmotic pressure of an organism's fluids to maintain the homeostasis of the organism's water content; that is, it keeps the organism's fluids from becoming too diluted or too concentrated. Osmotic pressure is a measure of the tendency of water to move into one solution from another by osmosis. The higher the osmotic pressure of a solution, the more water tends to move into it. Pressure must be exerted on the hypertonic side of a selectively permeable membrane to prevent diffusion of water by osmosis from the side containing pure water.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

The osmoregulation is a big factor that most know about with fish( for the most part the exchange{intake/output} of salts.But plants do it too!It is part of the stress on plants that can last much longer than it does with most fish(weeks for plants).


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## aquanox24 (Apr 25, 2014)

i was having the lights on for about 8-10 hrs daily previously. I thought that was the cause of the dying plants. So i reduced it to around 4-5 hrs


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