# 20g Aquarium (with DIY Stand and canopy from scratch)



## nerdmanpap (Aug 5, 2011)

Hey all, I've just recently gotten back into the aquarium hobby and found that my woodworking hobby perfectly complemented my need for an aquarium stand and canopy. Here are some pictures of my stand so far:

Inner frame constructed out of pine select using pocket hole screw construction. This frame has 2 coats of polyurethane on it for water protection.









Stand frame test, checking height and stability so far:









Sides cut from 1/2" oak plywood, stained English Chestnut, and coated with 3 layers of polyurethane:









Sides attached to frame, here is a shot with the tank setting on top:









Front frame for the stand, this is made of solid red oak. Again it is stained with English Chestnut and finished with 3 layers of polyurethane:









Front frame attached:









Front frame attached with tank on top again:









At this point I grabbed more solid red oak and ripped it down on my table saw. After a few hours of routing, cutting, trimming and staining.... The trim is done and attached! You can see I've got the shelves completely done as well as the top:









I currently have my 20g tank set up on the stand. I've filled the tank and it is going through the fishless cycling process right now. My canopy is completed (it is a 55w AH Supply kit enclosed in a home made Red Oak enclosure that matches the bottom of the stand). I will try to take more pictures and add them later this weekend when I get a chance. All that is left for my stand is to create the door which required me to order another set of router bits (should arrive soon!)


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## Chillwill007 (Aug 20, 2010)

Thanx for the pics. I think im gonna have to copy this for my 40 breeder minus the fancy lil screw holes. Question I have left over 2x4 I will b using. Am I corect in thinking I will need to cut my legs to 22" to compansate for the top and bottom 4" for the boxed in secrions? And my tank is 36"x 18" so should I make my box exactly 36"x 18" or should I do it a lil smaller like 34"x16" since the bords r 2"?


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## Chillwill007 (Aug 20, 2010)

Or actually I guess for the box I could do 36" for the length & only cut the width parts to 14" because it will go on the inside of the 2 lengths and get the extra 4" to make it 18" ?

Am I right or should I just get u to build my stand lol


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## nerdmanpap (Aug 5, 2011)

You are right about needing to compensate for the thickness of the 2x4, but keep in mind that a 2x4 is only 1.5 inches thick and only 3.5 inches wide. As long as you keep that in mind and draw it out before hand to double check your final dimensions you will be fine. Good luck with the project and have fun building!


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## GuppyNGoldfish (Mar 28, 2011)

How much did the stand cost you? Looks expensive


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## NQuaday (Jul 21, 2011)

Beautiful looking stand! Definitely will be following this build


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## giddetm (Apr 30, 2011)

Nice cabinet, I can't tell if your interior shelf is bare on the front edge. If it is you can take 3/4" off the depth and take a piece of the red oak 3/4" x1"or1-1/2" and glue to the plywood it will make your shelf alot more sturdy.


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## Sweetgreenleaf1369 (Jun 24, 2011)

Nicely done..


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## nerdmanpap (Aug 5, 2011)

giddetm said:


> Nice cabinet, I can't tell if your interior shelf is bare on the front edge. If it is you can take 3/4" off the depth and take a piece of the red oak 3/4" x1"or1-1/2" and glue to the plywood it will make your shelf alot more sturdy.


I've got a piece of Red Oak cut to go across the middle shelf. I just need to stain it and finish it and nail it in place. I've picked up more wood from the local lumber yard and will be building my door within the next few days. 



GuppyNGoldfish said:


> How much did the stand cost you? Looks expensive


Total cost breakdown:
$100 for wood 
$36 for finishing supplies (stain, polyurethane, brushes, etc).

Current total: $136 (I estimate the grand total will be $150)

From what I can tell thats a pretty good price for a nice looking stand. All the stands at the pet stores that I have found were $150 - $300 and didn't look near as nice (MDF and Plywood painted black, or fake oak veneer over MDF). How much have you guys typically paid for your aquarium stands?


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## PapaM (Jul 10, 2011)

nerdmanpap said:


> You are right about needing to compensate for the thickness of the 2x4, but keep in mind that a 2x4 is only 1.5 inches thick and only 3.5 inches wide. As long as you keep that in mind and draw it out before hand to double check your final dimensions you will be fine. Good luck with the project and have fun building!


And don't forget the old woodworking saying; measure twice cut once!


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## majerah1 (Oct 29, 2010)

Very nice!Its so shiny and elegant.

As for my stands,Ive gotten them all from either local thrift shops or yard sales.So no where near as much as a new one costs.

You just cant beat a home made wooden stand though,very nicely done!


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Nice job! The satisfaction of how good it looks and knowing you did it, will more than make up for the extra cost.


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## nerdmanpap (Aug 5, 2011)

Thanks everybody for the positive words and encouragement. I am currently still waiting on some tools to arrive so I can finish the door for the stand, but I will post more pictures tomorrow. 

So far my tank is coming along great and all my live plants have begun to thrive under the 55w AH supply kit. I expect my cycle will complete by next week and I can finally start adding fish!


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## Meshuggahn (Jul 31, 2011)

That looks great. I would love to have those kind of wood working skills. Well done.


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## Chillwill007 (Aug 20, 2010)

Hey nerd 

Do you think I should put another piece of wood across the middle of the top box extra support sice my tank is bigger ?


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## nerdmanpap (Aug 5, 2011)

Chillwill007 said:


> Hey nerd
> 
> Do you think I should put another piece of wood across the middle of the top box extra support sice my tank is bigger ?


I would go ahead and put that extra piece in for the added strength. My motto when it comes to aquarium stands is that building it too strong can never be a problem, but the same can't be said about not building it strong enough


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## nerdmanpap (Aug 5, 2011)

Big update! I've got lots of pictures to show again. The hinged lid is made from 1/2" plywood and it has begun to bow something awful despite the extra care I took to make sure it was entirely watersealed. I'll be taking some 1/2" SOLID Red Oak and replacing that piece soon. With a solid piece of oak I shouldn't have any more bowing problems.

Tank canopy, view from the top (lights shown in later pictures)









Close up of trim on canopy:









AH Supply light kit in home made enclosure (back view):









light kit view from the inside:









Canopy with light sitting on top:









Canopy on top of aquarium:









Full Aquarium view:









Aquarium close up:









Luckily my third hobby is photography and it complements my woodworking and aquarium 

I've pretty much got my plants and driftwood arranged as I want finally, I've been constantly rearranging things in my mind all week. I'll be replanting the corkscrew val once the offshoots are big enough to break off the main roots of the runners, so thats why they are all planted in such a straight row right now. My anacharis in the back was getting out of hand (this light kit is capable of making things GROW!) so its been hacked way back and the tops are replanted but barely visible behind the larger piece of driftwood on the right. 

I need more rotala, maybe some java fern, and possibly some moss, but more importantly I need to finish my cabinet door. My door making router bits arrived so I plan on getting to work on the door asap.

Let me know what you think, and if there are any suggestions on plants that might look good please feel free to let me know! *c/p*


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## Chillwill007 (Aug 20, 2010)

Ya thats what I thought to and brsides I have 3 2x4x96 which is 288" total and I calculated I would need about 319" not counting the center piece and I would have to buy a 4th 2x4 to complet that any ways. So if I add the center brace it brings my total up to 324" for the stand. With the 4th 2x4 it brings my total wood up to 384". So for the price of 1 2x4 I will have my whole stand minus the sides & doors. 

Sorry to kinda jack ur thread but its helping me out by seeing it written down n kinda having u to check me.

Other question how sis u do the screw holes? Is that just a drill bit or a special tool?


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## nerdmanpap (Aug 5, 2011)

Chillwill007 said:


> Ya thats what I thought to and brsides I have 3 2x4x96 which is 288" total and I calculated I would need about 319" not counting the center piece and I would have to buy a 4th 2x4 to complet that any ways. So if I add the center brace it brings my total up to 324" for the stand. With the 4th 2x4 it brings my total wood up to 384". So for the price of 1 2x4 I will have my whole stand minus the sides & doors.
> 
> Sorry to kinda jack ur thread but its helping me out by seeing it written down n kinda having u to check me.
> 
> Other question how sis u do the screw holes? Is that just a drill bit or a special tool?


No problem! I'm glad I can help. One thing to note is that when you cut the wood with your saw you will lose 1/8" each cut because of the width of your blade. Sometimes that can throw people off.

The jig I use for the holes is called a pocket hole jig. My favorite is the Kreg Jig Jr. since Kreg makes the best ones. It comes with the jig, special drill bit, and instructions. I'm not sure if I am allowed to post a link to the jig, but if you search google you can find it pretty easy.


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## Chillwill007 (Aug 20, 2010)

I just finished post as u did ur last post. I would throw in a tiger lotus and maybe one of those moramora balls or what ever there called. But tank and stand looks great. Thats kinda the look im going for too. Did u use eco complete?


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## majerah1 (Oct 29, 2010)

That looks wonderful!So when are you bringing it over?lol


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## Chillwill007 (Aug 20, 2010)

So I figure I dont get the jig thing(which already sounds complecated enough I will atleast need some 4" screws or should I do something like 4 1/2" for the boxed insections. And I guess I shouldnt worry about the 1/8" since I will have about 60" extra right?


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## nerdmanpap (Aug 5, 2011)

Chillwill007 said:


> I just finished post as u did ur last post. I would throw in a tiger lotus and maybe one of those moramora balls or what ever there called. But tank and stand looks great. Thats kinda the look im going for too. Did u use eco complete?


Yep! I used the black eco complete. This is my first time using it but so far I like it a lot



Chillwill007 said:


> So I figure I dont get the jig thing(which already sounds complecated enough I will atleast need some 4" screws or should I do something like 4 1/2" for the boxed insections. And I guess I shouldnt worry about the 1/8" since I will have about 60" extra right?


4" screws will work, make sure to pre-drill the holes so you don't split your 2x4's. You shouldn't run into any problems from the 1/8" blade loss but I was just throwing it out there for consideration

EDIT:



majerah1 said:


> That looks wonderful!So when are you bringing it over?lol


I'd love to bring it over lol, it is so hot right now in Texas it is insane!


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## Sweetgreenleaf1369 (Jun 24, 2011)

Again a job well done. From the way you have put it together I would say it is very strong and better built than what you could buy in a LFS. And you can take pride when you look at it that you made it yourself.... thumbs up


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## majerah1 (Oct 29, 2010)

Do you build things for a living?Or just a handy person?I can lay flooring,and cut tile,but woodworking is not my thing.Thats the hubbs job,lol.

Yes I agree its hot.My mom lives in OK and she said its ridiculous right now.I have heard the school busses were about 105 degrees inside.


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## nerdmanpap (Aug 5, 2011)

majerah1 said:


> Do you build things for a living?Or just a handy person?I can lay flooring,and cut tile,but woodworking is not my thing.Thats the hubbs job,lol.
> 
> Yes I agree its hot.My mom lives in OK and she said its ridiculous right now.I have heard the school busses were about 105 degrees inside.


I am just a handy person to have around. I picked up woodworking as a hobby and have quite the collection of tools now. Most people in my neighborhood call me when something breaks haha


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## nerdmanpap (Aug 5, 2011)

Just a quick update tonight. I graduated college august 6th and started my full time career today so I have been way too busy to finish my aquarium doors yet. All the tools and materials are gathered and I plan on making them this weekend.

On a sad note, my tank was chugging along great doing the fishless cycle and was converting ammonia to nitrite just fine. Things went south though and after several days of EXTREMELY high nitrite the tank suffered a massive PH crash. I just spent several hours tonight removing all plants/driftwood, draining the water, rinsing substrate, and refilling. I'm not sure what caused the crash but it could have been the driftwood, or me stupidly adding a bunch of Seachem Neutral Regulator and pushing the water to its buffering limit then toppling it over the edge with driftwood. I had bought the neutral regulator from petco when I first got the tank and made the mistake of trusting the store employee and used it...*frown

To give you an idea of how high my nitrite was, the tap water here has 0 nitrite. I drained the entire tank, removed nearly all the gravel, and restarted from scratch. There was no more than a cup or two of original water. After refilling with ~18 gallons I tested my nitrites and they still measure 0.35ppm. I'm going to let my tank sit and run for a while just testing the water before I start adding ammonia again. 

Currently I have 0.35ppm ammonia, 0.35ppm nitrite, and 2.5ppm nitrate.

At any rate, if anyone has any suggestions for avoiding such high nitrites again please let me know. I had added ammonia up to 4 ppm to start the cycle, then monitored it and kept it around 4 until nitrites started rising. Once the ammonia started to fall off quickly I was adding ammonia 1x daily to bring the ammonia back up to 3 to 5 ppm. Below is a graph of my ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate (not including samples taken after water change):










EDIT: on the graph a nitrite reading of 5ppm means that the nitrite was higher than the API freshwater test kit could read


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## nerdmanpap (Aug 5, 2011)

Quick update: Aquarium stand door is drying right now. I will attach it tomorrow and try to post some pictures. 

I'm also still impatiently hoping my fishless cycling will hurry up and complete asap. I've started seeing Nitrates rise but my Nitrites are still off the charts and I've done two major (75%+) water changes and the readings are still high. I'm going to let it run for a while more and see what happens. The water changes took my Nitrate readings down from 30ppm to ~7.5ppm so at least my Nitrates aren't super high


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