# Beginner Here



## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

I just received a 20 gallon long tank. I ordered a few things for it from marineland, including a 350 gph filter. I realize that this filter will produce a strong current because it is rated for tanks 50-75 gallons. I am looking for information regarding fish that like strong currents. If anybody knows anywhere that I can get a list of compatible fish that like strong currents I would appreciate it. Also, ANY tips at all would be greatly appreciated. So far, my knowledge of maintaining an aquarium is as follows.

Change 25% of the water a week.
Change filter every month.
Use drops to elmininate unnecessary minerals from tap water.
Use water siphon to clean gravel when changing water.
Do not overfeed (is an automatic feeder recommended by you guys)


I also read a post on here while i was researching that said to leave the light off when you're not in the house. My tank is going to be all fake plants and I do not want an algae problem. Does an LED light differ from the normal flourescent lights? 

Any tips/pointers for me would be greatly appreciated guys! Thank you


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## Gizmo (Dec 6, 2010)

You've got the basics of maintaining a tank down, it's establishing the tank that you need to study up on. Google "Aquarium nitrogen cycle" to learn about how it works; basically, bacteria colonies need to inhabit your tank and filter to turn ammonia (generated by your fish, fish poo & uneaten food) into nitrate. Ammonia will kill fish, nitrate won't unless in VERY high quantities. New tank owners make the mistake of adding fish right away before the bacteria colonies have established, and the resulting un-processed ammonia spike will kill many of the fish.

Buy some ammonia, pure & unscented, & dose a little every day for about two weeks. This will provide ammonia and the bacteria will colonize your tank naturally. Get a water testing kit to keep an eye on your ammonia and nitrate levels. When, after dosing ammonia for days, you see the ammonia concentration drop to 0 after 24 hrs from your last dose, and can see nitrates, you can stop dosing ammonia and add fish.

Hope this helps a little!


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## majerah1 (Oct 29, 2010)

I suggest you read these threads:
http://www.aquariumforum.com/f66/fishless-cycle-15036.html
http://www.aquariumforum.com/f66/fish-poop-you-primer-8310.html

these will help you understand the bacteria cycles and how to do one without fish. I suggest you get the tank ready first and while you are in the midst of this, research fish. 

For your size tank you will be limited to the numbers and species but I think you will be able to find some decent fish.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

Gizmo said:


> You've got the basics of maintaining a tank down, it's establishing the tank that you need to study up on. Google "Aquarium nitrogen cycle" to learn about how it works; basically, bacteria colonies need to inhabit your tank and filter to turn ammonia (generated by your fish, fish poo & uneaten food) into nitrate. Ammonia will kill fish, nitrate won't unless in VERY high quantities. New tank owners make the mistake of adding fish right away before the bacteria colonies have established, and the resulting un-processed ammonia spike will kill many of the fish.
> 
> Buy some ammonia, pure & unscented, & dose a little every day for about two weeks. This will provide ammonia and the bacteria will colonize your tank naturally. Get a water testing kit to keep an eye on your ammonia and nitrate levels. When, after dosing ammonia for days, you see the ammonia concentration drop to 0 after 24 hrs from your last dose, and can see nitrates, you can stop dosing ammonia and add fish.
> 
> Hope this helps a little!


So adding ammonia will also effect the nitrate levels. Once I get them balanced then I can add fish. Do I need to add more ammonia when I do the partial tank cleans every week or will the fish automatically produce the levels that I need for the new water?


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

majerah1 said:


> I suggest you read these threads:
> http://www.aquariumforum.com/f66/fishless-cycle-15036.html
> http://www.aquariumforum.com/f66/fish-poop-you-primer-8310.html
> 
> ...


Thank you, I will look at those threads. I appreciate the help. I would rather take some extra time to get the tank in a good condition for the fish than have them die because of my lack of education regarding aquariums.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

majerah1 said:


> I suggest you read these threads:
> http://www.aquariumforum.com/f66/fishless-cycle-15036.html
> http://www.aquariumforum.com/f66/fish-poop-you-primer-8310.html
> 
> ...



Should I follow the directions at the top of that post or the directions below the first set of directions? And did I read this right that once the ammonia,nitrite,and nitrate levels are stable I drain the whole tank and replace the water and add more de-chlorinator? Just making sure I'm doing this right


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## DarkestCloud (Mar 21, 2013)

For your lights, you could and probably should get a timer. They plug into an outlet, then you set it to turn on and off. It usually has an outlet on the top. One of these will keep your lights consistant. You and your fish will appreciate this. You can find one at any hardware store for around 10$. I don't think you'll have a problem with algae, as long as you don't have a lot of sunlight, but if you're really worried, aquarium salt will help prevent it. Use the recommended doses on the package. No idea if it'll mess with your cycle, though.


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## hotwingz (Mar 3, 2013)

One thing not yet mentioned, and I would think that most of us would agree with this, if not read up on it; it has helped my water quality, which in turn makes the fish happier.

Do not, repeat, do not change you filter media!!! Once you have bacteria colonies established in your filter, it does only harm to take them out. Filter companies are going to "recommend" you replace the cartridge every month because they want you buying them every month. I have gotten to the point where I am only using the cartridges to hold in media that I have selected use. The best thing you can do is when you change your water take the media and rinse it out in the old tank water. If you use tap water, you will kill some of the bacteria. If you aren't taking any of the bacteria out of the tank, it will stay cleaner, and you will have happier, healthier, nicer looking fish.


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## DarkestCloud (Mar 21, 2013)

For the most part, I agree with Hotwingz, but occasionally, you need to change your media. I had an algae problem, pulled it out, and it looked like someone's lawn. Not washing that.


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## hotwingz (Mar 3, 2013)

Oh wow! haha well there are exceptions to most rules. I had a friend that had to replace his whole filter once because the plant took over the whole unit! It was crazy! His water was clean though, just didn't move much.


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## dalfed (Apr 8, 2012)

DarkestCloud said:


> For the most part, I agree with Hotwingz, but occasionally, you need to change your media. I had an algae problem, pulled it out, and it looked like someone's lawn. Not washing that.


Just as long as you realize that your tank is going to go through a mini cycle at best afterwards.


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## rtmaston (Jul 14, 2012)

I agree on putting your light on a timer.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

hotwingz said:


> One thing not yet mentioned, and I would think that most of us would agree with this, if not read up on it; it has helped my water quality, which in turn makes the fish happier.
> 
> Do not, repeat, do not change you filter media!!! Once you have bacteria colonies established in your filter, it does only harm to take them out. Filter companies are going to "recommend" you replace the cartridge every month because they want you buying them every month. I have gotten to the point where I am only using the cartridges to hold in media that I have selected use. The best thing you can do is when you change your water take the media and rinse it out in the old tank water. If you use tap water, you will kill some of the bacteria. If you aren't taking any of the bacteria out of the tank, it will stay cleaner, and you will have happier, healthier, nicer looking fish.


I was already planning on the timer. I bought a marineland led hood with the night mode... I bought extra filters... The 350 marineland that I bought has a biowheel... I know not to change that, but even with the biowheel are you saying that I shouldn't change the filter unless absolutely necessary?


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## hotwingz (Mar 3, 2013)

YES! I have 350s on my 29's and I use the first slot for a cartridge, and on one side I have ceramic bio rings. On the other side I have filter floss. The idea is to try and maximize filter surface area for bacteria to grow on. The only time I change my media is when it starts to fall apart.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

hotwingz said:


> YES! I have 350s on my 29's and I use the first slot for a cartridge, and on one side I have ceramic bio rings. On the other side I have filter floss. The idea is to try and maximize filter surface area for bacteria to grow on. The only time I change my media is when it starts to fall apart.



What would you recommend for fish? My tank is a 20Long... I know there will be a strong current but wanted to over filter and have the opportunity to get a bigger tank if I wanted down the road. I will post pics of the whole process as I'm getting the tank set up.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

I orgot to mention that were going to do it tropical and already have the heater. We like the tertras and dainos..not sure if they go good together and if they like a strong current


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## DarkestCloud (Mar 21, 2013)

Tetras and Danios will be fine together, and with most other fish. They should be fine with a strong current. Mine love to play in the flow, it's really cute. Just about anything without really long fins should be fine, unless the current is ridiculously strong. I'd put a few bottom feeders in, as well. Cory cats are quite popular.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

DarkestCloud said:


> Tetras and Danios will be fine together, and with most other fish. They should be fine with a strong current. Mine love to play in the flow, it's really cute. Just about anything without really long fins should be fine, unless the current is ridiculously strong. I'd put a few bottom feeders in, as well. Cory cats are quite popular.


I was planning on getting bottom feeders as well. I'm thinking like 5 dainos 5 tetras 2 bottom feeders and maybe a few more mid level swimmers... Do you think 15-20 fish is too much for a 20Long


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## Raymond S. (Jan 11, 2013)

Actually yes but just check it here.
AqAdvisor - Intelligent Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium Stocking Calculator and Aquarium Tank/Filter Advisor
Darters are stream fish mostly so they like currant but check this out as one unusual fish makes an interesting addition.
hillstream loach aquarium - Yahoo! Search Results


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## WheeledGoat (Jan 29, 2013)

I've had good success with neons (like bottom-mid), black skirt tetras (mid level) and fancy guppies (top of the tank.) the fancy guppies LOVE LOVE LOVE the strong currents and seek them out. I have to chase them away from my siphon intake when I'm doing water changes - almost sucked them up several times. One time one got in the tube but I stopped it in time. crazy bastard.


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## hotwingz (Mar 3, 2013)

I would say that the 350 will be overkill, but you can't over filter. Also if you keep your water level high enough, the 350 is actually really good about not pushing the water out too hard. I wouldn't have sought out a 350 for a 20g but if you have it that's just fine!

15-20 fish is definitely too many! However even though some people won't like that I say this...as long as you have the right fish, filter, and WC schedule you can overstock the tank with no problems. Most of my tanks are "overstocked" and with my maintenance everything works out just fine.

I would however look to have more than 2 corys. They do better in groups.


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## DarkestCloud (Mar 21, 2013)

Totally agree with Hotwingz. You can "Overstock" as long as you keep up with maintenance. Within reason, of course. You can't have a foot-long fish in a 20 gallon, even if you have a filter rated for 200 gallons, and change 40% water every day. That's ridiculous.


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## tragusa113 (Apr 19, 2013)

majerah1 said:


> I suggest you read these threads:
> http://www.aquariumforum.com/f66/fishless-cycle-15036.html
> http://www.aquariumforum.com/f66/fish-poop-you-primer-8310.html
> 
> ...


Thumbs up for this


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## jamnigh (Apr 24, 2013)

I agree with Hotwingz up there. You cant technically have "too much filtration", but if you are going to overstock a little, the more the better. Just make sure you water change frequently. I have a 10g tank with 20 fry that are about half an inch long each. I have 2 filters on it (each a 10g rated filter) and I do a 20% WC every other day and a weekly 40% and they are fine and happy.

Also, the corys do much much better in schools of 6 or more. They will be more active and a lot happier.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

Another quick question for you guys! I am buying testing strips right now. Does the test for "alkalinity" in these mean that it's giving me an Ammonia test? Tetra Easystrips 6-in-1 Aquarium Test Strips Aquarium Saltwater Test Kits here are the strips I'm looking at. Keep in mind this is for my first cycle before I put the fish in.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

DeJay126 said:


> Another quick question for you guys! I am buying testing strips right now. Does the test for "alkalinity" in these mean that it's giving me an Ammonia test? Tetra Easystrips 6-in-1 Aquarium Test Strips Aquarium Saltwater Test Kits here are the strips I'm looking at. Keep in mind this is for my first cycle before I put the fish in.


Nevermind, I found testing kits that test for both! Sorry for the dumb question, just getting started here and ask stupid questions occasionally hahah *banana dance


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## jamnigh (Apr 24, 2013)

DeJay126 said:


> Nevermind, I found testing kits that test for both! Sorry for the dumb question, just getting started here and ask stupid questions occasionally hahah *banana dance


The only dumb questions are the ones not asked! *w3


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

Now, my next question is.... where can I buy pure ammonia to start my cycle? I've heard people mention ACE Hardware, but is there anywhere else?


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## jamnigh (Apr 24, 2013)

I know my local hardware store carries it.


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## DarkestCloud (Mar 21, 2013)

Probably anywhere that sells cleaning supplies. Hardware stores should carry it, too. Make sure you buy unscented, 100% pure ammonia. Other chemicals added will screw up your tank. Liquid tests are the most accurate, though much more expensive than test strips. You can buy the tests seperatly, or all together.


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## dalfed (Apr 8, 2012)

wal mart


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

Okay, so I have my tank set up except for the filter, hood, and air pump. All of that stuff is coming tomorrow. I actually have a submersible filter for a 20 Gallon tank that I put in there just to make sure there was some type of filtration happening until tomorrow. Now, when everything gets here tomorrow I'm gonna start the cycle process. I went to Lowes today and got ammonia. They had a few different kinds, and bought the only one that I found that didn't have any fragrances or anything in it. This was the purest that they had. Now here's my question, the ammonia that I bought has Ammonium Hydroxide, Surfactant, and Colorant. Is this safe to use on my tank for the cycling process? I know everyone has said to find PURE ammonia, but I couldn't find anything that said ONLY ammonia.


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## SueD (Aug 4, 2012)

My bottle of ammonia doesn't say any of those things, so maybe someone else will know. But if you shake the bottle, it shouldn't foam.

But to answer this:
"So adding ammonia will also effect the nitrate levels. Once I get them balanced then I can add fish. Do I need to add more ammonia when I do the partial tank cleans every week or will the fish automatically produce the levels that I need for the new water?"

Ammonia starts the growth of bacteria that will turn the ammonia into nitrites. The nitrites will then turn into nitrates. Ammonia and nitrites are the most toxic to your fish. These need to go to zero and you will then see a big spike in nitrates. A large water change is then done to reduce the nitrates to maybe 5 -10. The bacteria that has developed will continue to eat up the ammonia that is created by your fish once you stock the tank. You do not continue to add ammonia to a cycled, stocked tank when doing water changes. Your fish will add enough. Nitrates will rise over time, however, and the weekly water changes will keep these at acceptable levels. You will add dechlorinator (Prime is an example) with each water change.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

Thank you, after doing more research I have found that this is not the correct form of ammonia I have to get more tomorrow morning. Thank you for the info on the water changes. When you say that a large water change is done, do you mean that after the cycle, before I put fish in I have to change the water?


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

Quick question for you guys...after I do the cycle and I'm ready to go ...do I have to change all of the water or any of it before adding fish?


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## SueD (Aug 4, 2012)

"When you say that a large water change is done, do you mean that after the cycle, before I put fish in I have to change the water?"

Yes, to lower the nitrates which should have spiked at the end of the cycle. You can change 60-75%.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

Thanks guys for all the help. I got my filter and everything else in the mail today. As you know I ordered a penguin 350, my tank is only a 20 long. I know this is a bit overkill but wanted the option of a bigger tank down the road with out having to buy a new filter. Now I added a pic, the filter nozzle is too long when I have the extension on and won't let the filter sit on the tank. So now my water is being filtered from the middle of the tank. I can rig up the strainer so it'll be at the bottom of the tank but it'll take some work, will this be fine the way it is in the picture?


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## lonedove55 (Jan 25, 2012)

Tank is looking good! By the way, if you're still looking for plain ammonia, try Dollar Tree..I finally found some there. It is a fairly weak solution, but worked fine in my tanks...you'll just have to add more. Make sure you get the liquid testing kit (i.e. API) as the strips are notoriously inaccurate (been there done that).


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## hotwingz (Mar 3, 2013)

Tank looks good! Your filter tube will be fine there! And WCs won't have a big effect on the pre/post cycling as for the bacteria will grow in your filter. There is almost no bacteria in the water column. It will have some but not enough. As long as all of your numbers are good, then you can add fish.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

Thanks guys. I'm getting ammonia in like half an hour and will update the thread tonight or tomorrow when I start my cycle.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

So, I started my cycle last night. The ammonia level is at 4-5 ppm right now. I am going to continue dosing tonight. I will keep you all updated. So far so good


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## tragusa113 (Apr 19, 2013)

looking good, now here comes the hardest part of this hobby, waiting and watching an empty tank. But in the long run it will all be worth it.


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

Hahaha I know...its killing me looking at this empty tank. It'll he worth it in the end though!


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## hotwingz (Mar 3, 2013)

I hate empty tanks lol. I have one in my spare room right now. I have to get rid of it though and it kills me. I have now used up all the extra space in my apartment and can't have any new tanks *td


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

hotwingz said:


> I hate empty tanks lol. I have one in my spare room right now. I have to get rid of it though and it kills me. I have now used up all the extra space in my apartment and can't have any new tanks *td


Lol that stinks  I will keep you guys updated on my progress through the cycle and ill post more pics and videos when everything is up and running...my air pump will he coming in the mail tomorrow.. I can't wait


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

I have a question for you guys. I dosed for the second time today. My ammonia levels are through the roof at 8. If they're still this high tomorrow should I continue to dose the same amount or skip the dose for a day or two until my levels come back down a little. I'm only asking because everyone is saying to get the levels at 4. Seeing as I'm double that now on my second day I just wanted to check and make sure. Thanks guys


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

I am officially cycling. I ran nitrate and nitrite tests today ( day 3 of my cycle) and my nitrite levels are between caution and stress. I cut my ammonia dosage in half today and will dose ever 4 days. I will keep you guys updated on the progress of my cycle but as of now everything is going good.


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## tragusa113 (Apr 19, 2013)

How is the cycle going?


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## DeJay126 (Apr 22, 2013)

I am actually finishing it tonight. I've been dosing to 4 ppm ammonia for the past 2 days and the ammonia is all being turned into nitrates within 12 hours. Going in the morning to stock the tank


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