# Dual 125 gallon aquarium stand build (LOTS of pictures)



## nova24

I thought I'd post a quick run through on how I'm building my Dual 125 gallon aquarium stand. Originally I was going to setup one tank as freshwater and one as saltwater, both using 55 gallon aquariums as refugiums, but that takes up a lot of space and the wife wasn't really too excited about losing that much wall space. So I decided to go this route. Basically, the upper tank will be the display tank and that bottom will be a refuguim. Both tanks will have live plants with the refugium housing a UV filter, bio media. Heater, pump and so on (I'll add pic's as I go).

The stand is designed so that the overflows and return lines are hidden in the sides of the stand.

Any input regarding any part of this build is appreciated and I'll do my best to answer any questions.

So, here goes:

First, the glue and screws I used for this project:


Starting the base, 2x4 construction:


All corners are glued and screwed. Drilling pilot holes in the boards you're attaching allows the screw to suck the boards tight to each other:



2x4 base assembled:


These boards, inside the frame, help align the top and bottom frames:


These corner boards keep take the weight of the tank and transfer it straight to the floor:



Top frame made the same way as the lower, but I used 2x6's:


I've applied the glue to the back of the frame and need to spread the glue BEFORE attaching the plywood. Very important step when gluing plywood or any wood for that matter. Spread the glue so you have 100% coverage of the area being glued:


The back panel is glued and attached with Sheetrock screws:


Front view of the base with back on:


Because I don't want a center support to block the viewing of the bottom tank (refuguim) I'm adding a couple of arched supports to transfer the load of the upper tank to the legs. This is the mains support that goes in behind the 2x6 on the front of the stand, it's made from 3/4" plywood and glued and screwed to the back side of the 2x6:


Very important step to get the most of strength from your glue joint. Spread the glue!:


Base with the 3/4" plywood arch support installed:


Installing the 1/2" plywood on the bottom of the base.



The back support consists of two 2x6's stacked one on the of the other, glued and screw to a 1/2" plywood full back panel and a 3/4" plywood web on the front:


Base with the 3/4" plywood supports installed for front and back 2x6's:


Back of the base with plywood glued and screwed:


Show front and back supports:


Cutting the 1/2" maple veneer plywood front support. This covers the entire front of the base:


Dry fit the panel and trace the outline of the frame onto the panel. This will show you where to spread the glue. A plastic putty knife works great for spreading glue. The glue peals easily off the putty knife once dry:


Showing the glue spread out:


Base with front plywood face support installed:


I used a flush trim router bit to trim the inside of the front plywood face flush to the frame:




1/2" front panel installed and routed:


The design of the cabinet calls for the legs to go the full height of the cabinet. The only problem is the cabinet would be to tall to fit in the house door if the legs are the full 84" tall. So I made the hood detachable and put a brake in the legs. By adding this rabbit detail on the tops of the base part of the legs, it make alignment of the hood part of the legs easier(It's make more sense later):




The plywood behind the display tank is a .2" thick underlayment. I cut dado's in the back legs to accept the underlayment. I used a scrap piece of the .2" thick underlayment to help align the dado cut into the back legs to the back edge of the 3/4" plywood top. This will allow me to fasten the plywood underlayment to the back of the 3/4" plywood top and in the dado's:




Base with legs installed:



A 1/2" plywood spacer was put behind the front legs to give the legs depth:


Front leg with 1/2" plywood spacer behind it:


The leg on the base goes up to the bottom of the top plastic band on the aquarium:


Installing the .2” thick underlayment back panel:



Both of the back legs have a dado for the back panel to be glued into:


I made some little supports to help align the front panel:



A large rabbit is cut into the back of the top and bottom rails and both stiles for front panel:


Here you can see how the rabbit on the back of the top rail fits the front panel:


Front panel alignment dowel:


Use a Japanese saw to trim the dowels:


Front panel alignment hole for dowels in base:


I use dowels to help align the front panel when installing (it’s the blurry thing in the middle of the picture):


Front panel installed:


1/4-20 Flathead screw that holds the front panel on:


The base has 1/4-20 brass threaded inserts for the front panel to bolt to:




Side cross rail installed. The cross rails have a rabbit cut into the back for the removable side panel:



Starting the hood framing:




Adding the plywood lid to the hood:



Back of the base and hood:


Removable side panel, still need to make:


Test fitting the tanks. This is the top cover on the front of the hood; it’s made the same way as the front panel:


The front panel on the hood:


The entire top opens to allow easy access to equipment:


Piano hinge on the hood:


Here the top panel is closed; the front panel and kick plate are installed. Almost done!:


By removing the front and side panels and lifting the top cover, I gain full access to both tanks:





Well, that's where I'm at so far. I'll post updates as I go.


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## coralbandit

wicked nice! Good build.Where are you putting it , and what goes in it ;salt or fresh.Can't wait to see more!


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## nova24

coralbandit said:


> wicked nice! Good build.Where are you putting it , and what goes in it ;salt or fresh.Can't wait to see more!


Thanks! It's going in our dining room against a wall, right over a grade beam. Practically no stress on the floor. Lucked out! 

I'm putting freshwater in it right now. Maybe saltwater down the road, but not now.


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## jbrown5217

This was really cool to see the entire process and it came out great


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## DL Lawrence

Wow, dude. Ain't that sumpin! You got skills.


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## NFexec

About 20 years ago, I build a much simpler stand for a 20-gallon fresh water aquarium. My build technique was more basic, but I used similar materials, and with a nice stain, and hand rubbed coats of polyurethane, it came out pretty nice... but again nothing like yours! All of the planning, materials, supplies, design time, and of course labor makes it understandable why quality aquarium stands are so expensive. Am looking forward to the final setup. Congrats on a quality job!

Doug


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## Rod4Rodger

That is very similar to my 240 gallon project a couple of years ago. I don’t know which I like better, your design, craftsmanship, or documentation. The one I really wish I had documented like that was my project to build the ultimate freshwater sump filter system for my Discus. Kudos!


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## Rod4Rodger

The sump project would be a perfect complement if you could do it. Of course my tank is drilled with overflows, a single 240 instead of two 125s, but with a couple of balance valves you could do it with a single sump. Everything is carried to my garage with PVC. There I have a 110 gallon sump with all the heaters, filters, pumps, make up water and change out water system, ground faulted power, single source hook up to my generator for emergencies, air cooling system, aeration equipment, easy access for testing, programmable logic controller, pumps, and an easy spillage drain right outside. There is no clutter in my tank, no filters under, near, or on, and very little noise, just the gurgling of the overflows. With the skills you have so expertly demonstrated here, it would be cake for you. If I ever go back to marine it will be equally as good a set up since about the only thing I would change is to add a protein skimmer to the sump, some live rock, and use chemical filtration in place of some of the submerged biological and probably a chiller because I don’t think the air cooling would be enough. With Discus water changes are much more effective than chemical filtration and they like it about 87 degrees. I do use 106 watts of UV but for Discus that is probably overkill.


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## Puppylove

Wow! That's amazing!


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## nova24

Well, this project just got derailed *sad

I've been out of work for over a year now and we have to sell our house. We need to scale down a lot and the aquarium stuff has to go. I just put this stand with the 2 125 gallon aquariums and the rest of my aquarium stuff on craigslist. If you're in the Seattle area and are interested look here:
****Two 125 gallon Aquariums / Fish tanks with stand *****

I'll give it another try when the finances get back on track.

Oh, and if you know of someone needing a IT System Administrator with over 17 years experience, let me know.

Thanks and look forward next time!


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## coralbandit

sorry to hear.Wish you luck.


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## majerah1

Very sorry to hear. I wish you luck on finding a job.


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## RonB

Sorry to hear. Best of luck


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## nova24

Anyone in the Seattle area take a look at my craigslist listing:

**Two 125 gallon Aquariums / Fish tanks with stand (PRICE REDUCED!)**

If you want this stand and maybe a 125 gallon tank, the prices are crazy low, especial for the stand. *J/D* I need to get this out of my garage.


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