# Johnnycat's New Biocube29



## Johnnycat

*[CONTINUED FROM NEW INTRODUCTION SECTION]*

I've always wanted a saltwater aquarium, but I've been intimidated and just never felt like I had the right set-up.

My little girl finally talked me into it, so we're setting up a Biocube 29. I'm not real sure this is going to work, but so far we've had fun! 

So, it's Day #3. Today I finally figured out how to get the bubbles out from under the arm of the Hydrometer. So it's the first day I've had accurate salinity readings and the first day I actually have the correct salinity (assuming the hydrometer is correct).

Boy is this aquarium stuff getting expensive! I was disappointed in LFS selection of live rock, if you call it that, so I ordered some from LiveAquaria. Of course, now I have 3x more than I need. So my daughter and I selected our live rock keepers and did our "Aquascaping".

I think this will be a great father-daughter project! Anyone close to Mississippi need some live rock?

When do I test nitrate/nitrite, etc?


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## Reefing Madness

Did you get Fully Cured Live Rock from LiveAquaria?
If so, I'd start testing the water in a week.


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## Johnnycat

Yes - it was fully cured live rock. We'll be out of town some next week, which sounds perfect - I'll be able to let it cycle without obsessing over it! When we get back I'll start testing. 

Thanks!


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## Reefing Madness

Yea, won't take long using Cured Rock. It will have some die off due to shipping, but your in good shape.


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## Johnnycat

Patience is not my strongpoint. Setting up a new aquarium is pushing those limits! 

*It's Day #5*. I've taken the bioballs out of the Biocube - too many people said there's little use for them, etc. I was going to use the second compartment for live rock rubble, but I already have a good amount in the display part. I think I'll do some of the inTank mods
Coralife Biocube 29
with the filter basket and protein skimmer. 
I'm upgrading the stock return pump to a Rio 6hf. 
I have been consistently getting temps 85-86 degrees so I've ordered a chiller. I just don't see fans blowing over the surface bringing my temps down enough. I plan to use the stock pump for the chiller, but I may use a Cobalt mj1200. The stock is rated at just enough flow. 

I tested water today: pH 7.9; ammonia 0.25ppm; nitrite 2.0 ppm; nitrate 5.0ppm

*Newbie question for today:* If I use the Rio as the main pump (@350gph) and use the stock pump to power the flow to chiller (roughly 240gph) - does the pump to the chiller add to water movement in the system (in a perfect circuit that would be around 590 gph)? 

Thanks guys and gals!


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## Reefing Madness

Has head loss been factored into the chiller flow?


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## Johnnycat

Reefing Madness said:


> Has head loss been factored into the chiller flow?


*reading

Quick calculations suggest I don't have much margin with the stock pump. I better go with the Cobalt.


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## coralbandit

Johnnycat said:


> I tested water today: pH 7.9; ammonia 0.25ppm; nitrite 2.0 ppm; nitrate 5.0ppm
> 
> *Newbie question for today:* If I use the Rio as the main pump (@350gph) and use the stock pump to power the flow to chiller (roughly 240gph) - does the pump to the chiller add to water movement in the system (in a perfect circuit that would be around 590 gph)?
> 
> Thanks guys and gals!


If the chiller returns to tank(it runs completely seperate from filter) then yea the flow will be extra circulation.
I know you're cycling so most the levels you have are what they are ,BUT I would keep an eye on your pH and maybe try to bring it up a little.


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## Johnnycat

Day #6: I added some buffer yesterday to raise the pH. Salinity is finally stable.

Today's readings:
pH 8.1
Ammonia 0.25ppm
Nitrite 2.0ppm
Nitrate 5.0ppm

Still cycling...


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## Reefing Madness

You have a lid on the tank? Need some aeration in the tank, if your buffering already.


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## Johnnycat

This is sorta turning into a blog! 

I guess I should go ahead and post my goals. What I would like to end up with is a reef tank with colorful live rock, a few soft corals, 4 fish, and some inverts like a shrimp and hermit crab or two (or six)

If nothing else, maybe some other newbie can read this *BEFORE GETTING STARTED* and avoid some mistakes that I am making. At any rate - it will be interesting to see how it all turns out! 

Right now I have a stock Coralife Biocube 29. I took out the bioballs but everything else is stock. I added 3 pieces of dry base rock and one large piece of fully cured live rock from LFS. Then, I ordered some live rock from Liveaquaria. I ordered the Fuji select nano pack and the fancy fused pack. I got 3x more than I needed. I have a large hunk in the middle of my cube, but it has a lot of crevices, tunnels, and swim-throughs. I through out at least half of the rest. 

I was wrong about the fancy-fused - it is NOT fully cured. I guess that will add to my cycling time. 

Next up - I jumped the gun and ordered a clean-up crew already and some inTank mods. None of that is here yet, but it's way too early for the clean-up crew so I'm not sure what to do with it when it does arrive. I do think the inTank mods will help down the road. They should all be here in 3-4 days. In the meantime, we keep cycling! 

I am running lights some - I've read numerous posts about lights on and lights off. I figured I'd just go with what I plan to eventually run. Lights are stock Biocube right now. 

The hood is on, but the back part is off and the front little access door is open. 

I can see a little color coming on the rocks and some fine algae or Diatom growth. 

Maybe this won't be a complete disaster! At this point I don't have anything in the tank except Live Rock, so if it fails I'll just start over and do it right the next time!


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## Reefing Madness

Throw the CUC in the tank when you get it, not much else you can do with them.
Your Ph is getteing unbalanced because your tank isn't able to breath. Do you have any powerheads in the tank for water movement?
Eveything else sounds right to me.


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## Johnnycat

*Day #7*
I took RM's advice and created more motion in the ocean - the Rio 6hf came in the mail, so I went and switched it out. That gives roughly 350gph (more the the stock 243). Overnight I ran the stock pump as a powerhead - it really blew some detritus around.

Today's numbers:
pH 8.1
Ammonia 0.25
Nitrite 2.0-5.0
Nitrate 80-160

The cycle continues...tomorrow the Cobalt mj1200 should arrive with the chiller so I'll hook it up.


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## Reefing Madness




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## mrsixstrings12

I'm one of the newbies thats reading this before hand!  This is a fun thread and I will be checking in on it to learn some stuff while I get my freshwater tank up and running *pc


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## Johnnycat

Okay - I didn't get a chance to post yesterday's info:

pH 8.1
Ammonia 0.25
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 180

I think it's too early to put in a clean-up crew (CUC) but I had already ordered it to be delivered yesterday, so it's either put them in the tank and hope for the best or throw them away. I chose the first option. If nothing else it was fun to see the snails and couple crabs in the tank! I also got a pencil cap macro that I planted in one corner of the tank and a red macro that I attached to some rock. I ordered two balls of chaeto as well - at first I was going to put it in the display area but that has become a royal pain. So I put it with a light in the third compartment in the back in a cone worm feeder above the Rio.

My inTank mods came in the mail so I installed the media basket (requires removing a small tab from the Coralife cube - easily done with a rotary tool). I have it installed as they recommend: filter floss top level, Seachem Purigen 2nd level, Chemi-Pure Elite third level. I didn't have time to put in the Tunze skimmer - I will if I can today, but we are going out of town. 

The chiller and cobalt pump should come today - if it comes before I leave I'll put it in. Temps have been about 80-81F. 

Personally I'm not expecting anything to still be alive when I get back next week. If so - BONUS! If it all goes down, I'll just cycle the tank a lot longer before adding livestock and then just add a little at a time.


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## Goby

It would be nice to get the skimmer going before you leave, but in my experience with 2 different skimmers, they tend to be sorta unpredictable those first couple days...barely working one minute and nearly overflowing the next. Then again if it overflows, it won't hurt anything in a cycling tank. I have the 9004 Tunze skimmer and I really like it. I had a lot of micro bubbles at first but it gradually settled down throughout the first couple weeks. It skims awfully wet at first but again, it gradually gets better day by day. Tunze claims that wet skimate is the way to go but I dunno, I sorta like a nice thick foam. I've been experimenting with mine both ways so we'll see. FYI: when you turn the air knob to the right, you are actually turning the bubbles down, not up. It's very easy to install but mine didn't work at first. I had to open it up and there was this wheelie thing that had come loose that I had to put back in place...then it worked fine.

Isn't this fun?

lol...and expensive?*H2


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## Reefing Madness

If you'd like to give the CUC a better chance, change 50% of that water to knock down the Trates. That will help them out quite a bit.


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## Johnnycat

*So...it's Day 13!*

I'm back in town - just got back this evening. I didn't have time to hook up the skimmer before I left and didn't have time to do a water change, so I just let it go. I left the big lights off and just kept the "moon glow" lights on. The tank is in the kitchen where it gets some ambient light but not much and certainly nothing direct. 

I've come back to what appears to be a brown algae bloom - I guess a diatom bloom. It's covering everything. I had a pretty big die off of the dwarf ceriths, though a few are still alive (maybe even more than I think). I can't tell if the Florida ceriths made it - they appear to be hiding. My nerites are still alive (at the waterline) and at least 3 of the 6 hermit crabs are alive - maybe more.

pH 8.2
ammonia .25
nitrite 0
nitrate 80

In the next couple days I should get around to some maintenance and adding chiller, skimmer, and powerhead for more circulation. 

Would you guys do a water change or keep cycling?


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## Reefing Madness

If you want to keep the rest of whats left of your snails I'd do a BIG water change. They don't much care for Trates being quite that high.


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## Johnnycat

It's Day 14:

I installed the Tunze 9002 skimmer this morning. 

Today's numbers:
pH 8.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20-40

I have been adding some Instant Ocean nitrate reducer.

Hopefully tomorrow evening some supplies will arrive on the big brown truck and I'll do a 50% water change.


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## Goby

Your water parameters look great! The CUC members you've mentioned- nerites and ceriths, will likely tolerate nitrates of <40 just fine...as will most SW fish. However some inverts, such as shrimp, will likely benefit from or even require much lower nitrate levels than 40. 

I get nearly all members of my CUC from reefcleaners.org and I've had great luck! I especially like their dwarf ceriths. My experience with both the dwarf and the larger ceriths (especially the large), is that they'll sit in a dormant-like state for several days after acclimation...so don't write them off yet! Reefcleaners.org has a FAQ page that outlines which cleaners work for which problem. I've used their site as a resource many times and they are quick to respond to emails too.

Great job!


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## Johnnycat

*Day 15*

Today's numbers were pretty much identical to yesterday's (pH 8.2, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 40)

I did a massive water change and cleaned up some of that brown diatom junk. I'm not sure if the CUC survivors are happy or not after that detritus storm! Hopefully I removed a majority of it with the water change. 

Still waiting on some stability - maybe I'm getting close.


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## Johnnycat

*Day 18*
pH: 8.0
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate ~20, maybe a little less. 

I need to get more water movement - I'm waiting on a few power heads. I'm going to try the Hydor Koralia Nano and 4-way controller.

LFS says it's okay to put fish in, but I want to hold off a little longer. I still need to get my chiller running - temps have been 82-83. And I'm still playing with the aquascaping.


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## Reefing Madness




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## Shaun843

Nice cant wait to see pics when its fully up. Good job man.


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## Johnnycat

*Day 19*

pH: 8.1, Ammonia 0.25 (not zero - ??? I had some snails die - wonder if that is increasing the ammonia or possibly test kit just not accurate on that. Initially it was 0, but ten minutes later turned to the 0.25 color), Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5

Went by LFS after church - told him this mornings numbers and left with a peppermint shrimp, emerald crab, and a pair of clowns (both Ocellaris from Sustainable Aquatics - one "saddleback" and one "fancy).

Good luck to us!


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## coralbandit

The longer you wait to check test the more inaccurate it can be.Ammonia is done in 3 or 5 minutes so 10 minutes later it could be inaccurate.


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## Johnnycat

Nothing like a picture to show you where you need to clean!

The peppermint shrimp immediately scouted out the aquarium from one end to the other and then found a rock in the very back of the aquarium - he's been there since and if we look around the back corner and contort our bodies we may catch a glimpse of an antenna.

The emerald crab has been the most fun. He went to work immediately eat, spitting and roaming. Then he found the deepest, darkest cave in the middle of the liver rock at some point last night and I haven't seen him today.

Clowns seem happy. They are pretty much staying at the intake vent in the back and picking off things in the water column - ? copepod larvae? I see faint little things suspended. I did put a bag of pods in the aquarium but would be surprised if any are still there.


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## Johnnycat

Side view.


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## Johnnycat

I'm getting some color on my topmost rock. Not sure if that's good or bad, but it's something different from diatom covered rock, so right now I'll take it.


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## Shaun843

Johnnycat said:


> I'm getting some color on my topmost rock. Not sure if that's good or bad, but it's something different from diatom covered rock, so right now I'll take it.



How far you in your cycle now? 13 days now? Do you have a protein skimmer running? If not I think It would be a good investment. Brown diatoms, green algea, and red cyanobacteria are all part of the cycling/maturation process your tank will go through. Go slow and be patient is the best advice I can offer. 

Diatoms appear and as the silicates are consumed it will disappear. Agea is present as your tank accumulates nitrates from the denitrification process. Phosphates also abet algea growth.

Tank looks good other that! *pc


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## Johnnycat

My protein skimmer is running - though it has been difficult to regulate. 

I bolstered my clean up crew with more hermits (10), more nesarrius or however you say and spell them (10), two Mexican Turbos, and another peppermint shrimp (just because if I have two I'm more likely to see one!)

One of the hermits is my champion - he/she/it has already found the green algae garden and is working!


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## Shaun843

Johnnycat said:


> My protein skimmer is running - though it has been difficult to regulate.
> 
> I bolstered my clean up crew with more hermits (10), more nesarrius or however you say and spell them (10), two Mexican Turbos, and another peppermint shrimp (just because if I have two I'm more likely to see one!)
> 
> One of the hermits is my champion - he/she/it has already found the green algae garden and is working!


Yeah I had problems too with my Oceanic protein nano skimmer, but realized it had to wear in....at first it had wet skims...now I noticed it has a dryer skim(foam) being released as the protein is finally being taken out.

awesome, a CUC is always a good investment. I think right now is keep doing your tests every few days....watch your CUC. I think normally the cycle period is about a month give or take what kind of rock and sand u added. Me personally I would have waited on the clownfish...but hopefully your spikes wont be to bad as though clowns are very hardy....


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## Johnnycat

*Day 22*

I added more critters to the CUC yesterday [see post above] and today nitrates were up in the 20ish range (I have trouble discerning the exact color on this API kit - it could be as low as 10 or as high as 40. I really think it's between 10 and 20) so I did a small water change. Everyone seems happy. One of the shrimp molted - maybe that's the one that's been in hiding. Or maybe he's just shy. One is definitely friendlier than the other. 

Everyone seems happy so far...


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## perm_dogg

Johnnycat said:


> *Day 22*
> 
> I added more critters to the CUC yesterday [see post above] and today nitrates were up in the 20ish range (I have trouble discerning the exact color on this API kit - it could be as low as 10 or as high as 40. I really think it's between 10 and 20) so I did a small water change. Everyone seems happy. One of the shrimp molted - maybe that's the one that's been in hiding. Or maybe he's just shy. One is definitely friendlier than the other.
> 
> Everyone seems happy so far...


Yeah, those test kits are a joke. It takes forever to do a full test and it gets really hard to stay up on it. But it looks like you're on your way. I hope your ready for A LOT of fast change


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## Johnnycat

*Day 24*

In an effort to boost circulation I installed four Hydor Koralia Nanos contrlled with the Hydor 4-way wave controller. Right now I have all of them cycling together on slow cycle. By my math that means roughly 400-1000 gph circulation (continually ebbing and flowing). I may change it up to some type of sychonized or progressive program, but so far so good. The clownfish seem to enjoy the surfing. 

I'm waiting on some tubing to change out the filter/main pump. It's working, but I'd like a better flow through the filter. Currently I have the Rio 6hf and it's working, but when I put the chiller into the mix it has a large head to pump against. It ain't necessarily broke, but I still think it could be better! I'm planning to go with the Eheim compact 3000 - it should fit in the third compartment and it's easy to adjust the flow as needed.

Today's numbers:
Salinity 1.023
Temp: 76-77 tightly controlled with chiller
pH 8.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 10 (at most, according to the API kit - I've bought a new Red Sea nitrate kit, but I haven't read up on it yet)


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## Johnnycat

Okay - I read up on the Red Sea kit and tried it out. By the API test, which is very difficult to differentiate, nitrates are between 5 and 20 (probably in the 10-15 range would be my best guess). 

By Red Sea I'm around 1. I tried it several times and followed directions.

Somebody is wrong. 

I decided to get another opinion - so I ordered a LaMotte kit.


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## Reefing Madness

Hmm. I've been using API forever. Making sure I shake the bottles up good beforehand, then let the tube sit for at least 2 mins before checking.


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## Johnnycat

Reefing Madness said:


> Hmm. I've been using API forever. Making sure I shake the bottles up good beforehand, then let the tube sit for at least 2 mins before checking.


I would be inclined to say that the API test is more accurate at this point - there's almost no way my nitrates are below 1. I'm at least getting some type of color change with the API. I just can't tell how orange it is - light Orange, Orange, deep orange? 

It doesn't make a huge difference right now as I only have a couple Clowns, and some inverts. No corals. Plus it's still a very new tank.

But at some point I'd like to know if it's 5ppm or 20ppm.


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## Reefing Madness

You should be able to tell between 5-20. I can see the change. Ya gotta look at the vial through some light. Or put it up against the white card back drop. 5 is yellow, where as 20 is orange. Usually if you see the bright yellow, your good, if it gets a slight tinge of orange its 10ish, darker orange is 20.


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## Johnnycat

On yours I can see a difference. 

THe one I have is from the API multi kit that measures pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I've only been using the pH and nitrate since the others have been stable.

On that kit, the low numbers are all shades of orange. 










The zero is yellow and the 20 is deep orange. I'm having trouble with the shades in between.


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## Reefing Madness

AH, I see now. Individual tests come with its own card. Yea, that one does look a bit different.


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## Shaun843

Johnnycat said:


> On yours I can see a difference.
> 
> THe one I have is from the API multi kit that measures pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I've only been using the pH and nitrate since the others have been stable.
> 
> On that kit, the low numbers are all shades of orange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The zero is yellow and the 20 is deep orange. I'm having trouble with the shades in between.


I also have problems decifering with the shades at times.


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## perm_dogg

I'll chime in and say that your best guess on the chart is probably okay. I had times where I know mine was pushing 60, even 80 and my fish didn't even act funny. Correct me if I'm wrong, but i think Nitrates, (unless you dose vodka) are never going to go away, you just have to monitor them and keep them at bay. Some Corals and fish don't mind a reading of 20 at all. Atleast that's what i've got out of my experience and what i've read here. They are a pain in the ***, but welcome to saltwater homie


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## coralbandit

It almost always seems that people new to test have a hard time telling the difference.I completely understand and will make no claim to reading them any more accurately than any of you.But I will share a trick.Always read tube against white background (card,wall,piece of paper).Always use strong lighting and always read them the same way,EVERYTIME.Like I said I can't read them better,but since I read them the same way every time I compare to last time.If I think it was 20 then I compare to that.At least you know if it is more or less than before.
Back in the 80's-90's lamottes were the best,although I never used them.I'm all good with API and I test my salts(all 3{soon to be 4}) weekly and my 180gl FW every two or three days when I change water.
Eventually with consistent methods you'll get an "eye" for it.


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## Reefing Madness

I wouldn't say dosing would be the only way to get your Nitrates at 0 and always keeping them there. Thats one way, but most would do weekly water changes at the correct % and keep em that way. Using a ATS would be another, running a large Fuge would yet be another way. The fish don't mind trates to a point. I ran em at 200 and didn't know it for awhile, the weak or the sick will die first, then you slowly will kill the fish, but not outright at those numbers. You can and will see a difference in the fish from Trates at 60 and then at 10 or below, they will act differently. But for the most part, in a FOWLR 30 and below are safe, and you'll need 20 and below for Softies and LPS, and below 5 for SPS.


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## Johnnycat

It's been a trying week for the Johnnycat Aquarium! It was a busy week at work and I went a little too long between water changes. So a few things died off. I think it's still part of the process, and I think the bio load was a little too high. 

I also got a serpent sea star and that thing's just creepy. I think I'll take it out. 

Personally I feel that the small cube tank is holding me back. I don't like the options for expanding to a fuge and sump. I'm kinda planning my next tank but we're a long way off from that. 

I think we're back on track now with the nitrates, and I'm learning about the carrying capacity of inverts and fish in this tank. 

Update on equipment:
I got a Bulk Reef RO/DI system - now to set it up!
I also have the Steve's LED lighting, just haven't had the time to put that in either.


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## coralbandit

Most brittle stars are scavengers,BUT if you got a yellow green one it may really be a predator!
The Echinoblog: Giant Green Brittle Stars of DEATH!! When they ATTACK--AGAIN!!


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## Johnnycat

coralbandit said:


> Most brittle stars are scavengers,BUT if you got a yellow green one it may really be a predator!
> The Echinoblog: Giant Green Brittle Stars of DEATH!! When they ATTACK--AGAIN!!


This one is not green - it's brown/black banded. I think it's safe, but there's that question in the back of my mind. 

So far no evidence of it attacking a peppermint shrimp or a pistol shrimp or a small yellow watchman goby. No real evidence of it doing anything at all except living in a deep burrow with a pistol shrimp. I'm sure it comes out at night, but like I say - it's kinda freaky in this small tank.


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## coralbandit

Most the other colored brittles are safe.


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## Reefing Madness

They may be safe, but they do absolutely nothing for you, except give you that creepy feeling of "when is that thing gonna get a fish". I've got one, and he stays inthe same spot day and night, does absolutely nothing, and can't be seen. Gotta get a Linkia now, a nicely colored one so you can see the thing.


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## perm_dogg

Guys....I have a serpent star, and its bad as hell. I got a video of it doing some amazing things. It walks on it's "feet" instead of gliding across a surface like most stars. I, for one, like my star. He is a predator if something dies he will come out of nowhere and grab up on a carcus quick in essence, clean up the mess. They lose limbs and grow them back. damn. If only all saltwater animals had the same talent My opinion.....dont hate. ha ha


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## Johnnycat

To each his own, perm dogg! 

But the Serpent Star is history and I feel better for it! I think the rest of the tank feels better too. 

The goby (Yellow Watchman) and the pistol shrimp (Tiger Pistol Shrimp) have paired up, which is so cool! I was worried they wouldn't pair because they were in the same tank at LFS and didn't pair there. The pistol shrimp is digging me out of house and home.


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## Reefing Madness




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## Johnnycat

I hadn't seen the pistol shrimp in a few days so I decided to do a "deep clean" and found the skeleton. Not sure if it was water quality or what. the fish are doing great and the original peppermint shrimp is good. 

The Bulk Reef RO/DI has been assembled fully and it works but I have a huge leak. I have an email in to them. It works, so I now have good RO/DI water available for some small water changes. 

I'm working this holiday weekend so no time for big projects but I really want to change out my lighting and filter pump when I get a chance.

The Tunze 9002 is skimming away - that makes me feel better.

We were out of town a few days ago and I saw a little specialty reef store so I checked it out - before I knew I came home with a small blue mushroom and a small head of frogspawn. 

The journey continues...


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## Goby

Johnnycat said:


> I hadn't seen the pistol shrimp in a few days so I decided to do a "deep clean" and found the skeleton. Not sure if it was water quality or what. the fish are doing great and the original peppermint shrimp is good.
> 
> The Bulk Reef RO/DI has been assembled fully and it works but I have a huge leak. I have an email in to them. It works, so I now have good RO/DI water available for some small water changes.
> 
> I'm working this holiday weekend so no time for big projects but I really want to change out my lighting and filter pump when I get a chance.
> 
> The Tunze 9002 is skimming away - that makes me feel better.
> 
> We were out of town a few days ago and I saw a little specialty reef store so I checked it out - before I knew I came home with a small blue mushroom and a small head of frogspawn.
> 
> The journey continues...


Are you certain it was a "skeleton"? Sometimes it's difficult to tell the differentce between a dead shrimp and an newly shed exoskeleton. I've been looking at them for decades and still get fooled.

When my tank was less than a year old, the shrimp suffered. The parameters tested WNL, so I chalked it up to the frequent mini-swings that come as quicky as they go in new set-ups. My tank is coming up on 2 years old now and has become a much more reliable environment for the the more delicate inverts. Also, more than once when I've dosed iodine at full strength I've induced premature molting which also cost me some shrimp. I currently only dose iodine via _Purple Up_ and I keep the exact same dosing schedule every week.

Regarding serpent starfish...
I've had 2 of them for quite some time. They tend to settle into the dead areas of my reef, keeping those spots tidy...or at leaset tidier. When the current changes, they go looking for the newest lulls. They'll stay in the same spot as long as gunk is settling there. I consider my serpents to be a vital member of my clean-up crew and plan to eventually get another. There are nights when my 1" clown gobies sleep touching the serpent stars, as do my my watchman gobies who willingly share their dens with the stars. I've even laid dying fish amongst their rays and they've all but ignored them. I do realize that some strains of serpent stars are more aggressive than others but just wanted to share my experience with them, with you. I have a common chocolate brown serpent star that has grown quite large and a rusty-orange one as well. Interestingly, they both went into pH shock during acclimation...the rusty-orange serpent went into catatonic posturing for well over 24-hours and lost some of his rays entirely. The brown one lost about a 1/2" to the tips of all his rays. They both made a 100% recovery. Someday I'd like to get both a bright yellow one as well as a black and white striped one. I have many micro-serpent stars that have hitch hiked in on corals...those are fun too. They stay very tiny and tend to stay with the polyps of the taller palys.

It sounds like your reef is coming along nicely. One of my most favorite things to do lately, is to check out SW stores in other cities/states...treasure hunt deluxe.

I have the Tunze 9004 skimmer and I can't say enough good about it...a lot of skimmer in a very small package.


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## Johnnycat

RIP Peppermint Crab. At least it wan't due to water quality this time!

Moving some rocks around today and one slipped and wouldn't you know it, fell right where my peppermint crab was. 

On to some good news...
I tried out the Lamotte nitrate test kit today and I REALLY like it. It is much easier to read in my opinion.

I also got my RO\DI system working. I got a Spartan system from Bulk Reef. When it arrived I hhooked everything up and it was spewing water from one of the connections. I had to change out one of the connections, which is not that easy because I am not mechanically inclined. Now instead of spewing water it is down to a slow drip. I'm a little disappointed that the most expensive RO/DI system comes with a fault, but at least I have it running now and I have awesome water for my water changes.


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## Johnnycat

Thought I'd update my Biocube thread for anyone considering one. 

In short, DON"T DO IT.Just get a conventional rectangular tank. My Biocube is nothing stock and even then it's not doing what I want. 

The changes I have made:

1) Upgraded return pump from stock to something that actually moves water. Currently a Rio 6hf

2) Tossed Bioballs and installed a Tunze 9002 skimmer with Intank skimmer cup

3) Intank media rack with Chemipure elite

4) JBL chiller because I couldn't cool the tank enough any other way

5) Eheim Pro canister filter rated for 65 gallon (best investment for this tank so far)

6) Steve's LED light retrofit kit with programmable sunrise and sunset - very cool. Until my daughter poured water into the hood and fried them. Thats pretty much what has pushed me over the edge - I have ordered a proper 90 gallon tank with plans to add a sump and real refugium (which is very difficult with the Biocube - the compartments in the back are supposed to be your sump and refugium but not nearly large enough).

I'll probably keep the Biocube for a Pod farm. 

In the end, the attraction I had to the Biocube was that it was a self-contained unit with everything I needed to get started in the hobby. I didn't know anything about SW tanks and I still don't know much, but I want to upgrade and now that self-contained unit that was so attractive is a nuisance.


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