# API Freshwater Test Results for Cycling 60 Gallon: Please Assist in Analysis...



## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Okay. Ran the full battery of tests from the API Freshwater Master Kit tonight on the cycling 60 gallon, only containing the small Black Moor goldfish at this point, and I'd like to get some feedback on the results...

First, some brief history: The tank has been cycling for a little over a week now, and it was assisted with a nearly-full week of dosing with Seachem's Stability. It was previously the site of a nasty bacterial infection brought about by aggressive nipping by a small Red Cap Oranda we introduced into the aquarium, who subsequently ripped open sores in the other two adult fantails I had in there, thus letting a bacteria infection in and ultimately killing them (please see my long posts in this forum on this topic). The only fish to survive the infection breakout was this small Black Moor, who is now doing very well in the cleaned-out, sterilized and re-cycling 60 gallon...we pretty much saved her life after she was COATED in a slime-like formation from the infected tank, immediately putting her into an emergency 2 gallon holding "Marina Cool 7 Goldfish Kit" and then eventually into the sterilized 60 gallon. The aggressive Red Cap was moved to a 10 gallon, and has been given two small tankmates since then; that tank seems to be doing okay as well...

So here we are...about a week after setting up the 60 gallon again, getting it cleaned out, sterilized, absolutely scrubbed down and devoid of the infection that was in its water, and everything was thrown out and replaced -- the gravel, the plants, the decor and even the filter media. We're starting over with fresh media in both HOB filters -- an Aqueon QuietFlow 55 and an AquaClear 110 -- to get BB growth going again, plus new natural-colored gravel and new plants/decor (the plants and decor we're doing slowly as we try and figure out a theme for this tank). Here were the API results from the tests taken tonight; something is indicating to me that these numbers are reflecting a full or nearly-full cycle, but I may indeed be way off:

*pH: Results came out very blue -- perhaps even HIGHER than the "7.6" maximum on the color chart

HIGH RANGE pH: 8.2

AMMONIA: 0, possibly 0.25 (this one is ALWAYS just SO hard for me to read)

NITRITE: 0

NITRATE: 0*

Can anyone tell me if these numbers make sense at a week into the cycle process with one fish and brand new media/substrate? Shouldn't they be off a little as the BB colonies build, etc.? Should I be concerned with any of the numbers at this point, or is this tank looking good so far?

Thank you, in advance...


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## Jareth (Apr 25, 2012)

I always pop up with a few nitrates here and there but everything is either 0 and ph being 7.6


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

So, what do these results mean?


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## NeonShark666 (Dec 13, 2010)

For a large 60G tank you need at least 6 fish to cycle properly. I recommend 4 Clouds and two Female Bettas. Plants like Val and Java Fern would also help. After 4 weeks introduce 2 Otos. Cycling should be complete in 2 more weeks.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

It means you are progressing normally. Don't worry about having just one fish. One gf will more than produce enough to complete your cycle. And anyone who thinks they can predict when you'll be complete, ignore their thoughts. Cycles are different for every tank.


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## zero (Mar 27, 2012)

what jrman said. every tank is different and only once you have a reading of 0 ammonia 0 nitrites and -- nitrates then it will be cycled. some people say they keep the nitrates at 20ppm some say 40ppm but dont ever let it go above that, (please correct if im wrong). any who dont be discouraged and start panaking when it doesnt happen over night. these things take time. 

and can i just say to neon shark, this is a GOLDFISH tank not a tropical one.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

NeonShark666 said:


> For a large 60G tank you need at least 6 fish to cycle properly. I recommend 4 Clouds and two Female Bettas. Plants like Val and Java Fern would also help. After 4 weeks introduce 2 Otos. Cycling should be complete in 2 more weeks.


My tank is a coldwater goldfish tank, not tropical...and we're not intending on introducing some six fish at this time.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> It means you are progressing normally. Don't worry about having just one fish. One gf will more than produce enough to complete your cycle. And anyone who thinks they can predict when you'll be complete, ignore their thoughts. Cycles are different for every tank.


JR,

When you say I am "progressing normally," do you mean that after a week these numbers are actually right? Let me ask you this -- is it remotely possible that the Stability actually cycled the tank already and _that_ is why these numbers are all at "0"?


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

zero said:


> what jrman said. every tank is different and only once you have a reading of 0 ammonia 0 nitrites and -- nitrates then it will be cycled. some people say they keep the nitrates at 20ppm some say 40ppm but dont ever let it go above that, (please correct if im wrong). any who dont be discouraged and start panaking when it doesnt happen over night. these things take time.
> 
> and can i just say to neon shark, this is a GOLDFISH tank not a tropical one.


Zero,

My numbers, according to the test results, _are_ all at 0...


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

ClinicaTerra said:


> JR,
> 
> When you say I am "progressing normally," do you mean that after a week these numbers are actually right? Let me ask you this -- is it remotely possible that the Stability actually cycled the tank already and _that_ is why these numbers are all at "0"?


Those numbers look right to me. Extremely unlikely your tank has finished cycling....stability or not. Just keep going like your going.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> Those numbers look right to me. Extremely unlikely your tank has finished cycling....stability or not. Just keep going like your going.


Okay -- I shall proceed, thank you...

Some more questions for you, if I may...

First, I was advised on another board that when a cycle is coming to fruition, I will begin to see nitrate/nitrite readings -- so I don't understand when Zero says every test will read absolute "0ppm" when the cycle is complete. What EXACTLY am I looking for to indicate the cycle is going in the right direction -- or done?

Now, at this point, what should I be doing -- just keeping a check on parameters by testing every so often, feeding the Black Moor, keeping her comfortable and healthy and simply that? Nothing else is required to kick the cycle? And if ammonia creeps up, just do a water change? Should I do a water change if anything else begins to rise in number (nitrate/nitrite)? 

With regard to introducing a new fish -- we attempted to introduce one of the small goldfish from the 10 gallon into the 60 this afternoon, but when we tried to scoop him, all three freaked out and got stressed, so we immediately stopped because we didn't want to stress any of them more than we have to...


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## Samuel Stone (Jul 4, 2012)

Much appreciated


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

A typical cycle has ammonia rising and peaking at some point, usually this is about the time nitrites show.. nitrites will climb, while ammonia is dropping, and then pealk at some point. Once that occurs nitrtes finally start dropping, shortly after ammonia and nitrite should read zero and your nitrates will have some positive value. That would mean a completed cycle. All this will occur without your help in any way. Just monitor things and react as needed with a water change.


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## zero (Mar 27, 2012)

read this. it should explane whats going to happen. but yes test regulary and do a water change when the ammonia gets to 1ppm.

The nitrogen cycle
Every newly set up aquarium goes through a process of establishing beneficial bacterial colonies. Older aquariums also go through periods during which the bacterial colonies fluctuate. Failure to understand this process is the largest contributing factor to the loss of fish. Learning what it is, and how to deal with critical periods during the nitrogen cycle, will greatly increase your chances of successful fish keeping. 

The Waste Problem
Unlike nature, an aquarium is a closed environment. All the wastes excreted from the fish, uneaten food, and decaying plants stay inside the tank. If nothing eliminated those wastes, your beautiful aquarium would turn into a cesspool in no time at all.

Actually, for a short period of time, a new aquarium does become a toxic cesspool. The water may look clear, but don't be fooled. It's loaded with toxins. Sounds awful, doesn't it? Fortunately bacteria that are capable of converting wastes to safer by-products begin growing in the tank as soon as fish are added. Unfortunately there aren't enough bacteria to eliminate all the toxins immediately, so for a period of several weeks to a month or more, your fish are at risk.
However, you need not lose them. Armed with an understanding of how the nitrogen cycle works and knowing the proper steps to take, you can sail through the break-in cycle with very few problems.


Stages of the Nitrogen Cycle
There are three stages of the nitrogen cycle, each of which presents different challenges.

Initial stage: The cycle begins when fish are introduced to the aquarium. Their feces, urine, as well as any uneaten food, are quickly broken down into either ionized or unionized ammonia. The ionized form, Ammonium (NH4), is present if the pH is below 7, and is not toxic to fish. The unionized form, Ammonia (NH3), is is present if the pH is 7 or above, and is highly toxic to fish. Any amount of unionized Ammonia (NH3) is dangerous, however once the levels reach 2 ppm, the fish are in grave danger. Ammonia usually begins rising by the third day after introducing fish.
Second stage: During this stage Nitrosomonas bacteria oxidize the ammonia, thus eliminating it. However, the by-product of ammonia oxidation is nitrite, which is also highly toxic to fish. Nitrites levels as low as low as 1 mg/l can be lethal to some fish. Nitrite usually begins rising by the end of the first week after introducing fish.

Third stage: In the last stage of the cycle, Nitrobacter bacteria convert the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are not highly toxic to fish in low to moderate levels. Routine partial water changes will keep the nitrate levels within the safe range. Established tanks should be tested for nitrates every week to ensure that levels are not becoming extremely high.

Now that you know what is happening, what should you do? Simple steps such as testing and changing the water will help you manage the nitrogen cycle without losing your fish.

Tank cycling
The basic cycling method is based on gradually adding fish to the aquarium during a period of several weeks. There are several ways of jump starting this method. If you already have an aquarium, or know anyone who has, you can use this mature bacteria colony to jumpstart a new one in your new aquarium. Gravel and biological filter media is a rich source for bacteria. Keep in mind that even harmful bacteria can be included when you use gravel and filter media from another aquarium. It is therefore imperative to choose water from a healthy aquarium.
The reason behind the necessity of proper cycling is that the balance found in a natural ecosystem need some help from the aquarist in such an enclosed place as an aquarium. It is almost impossible to arrange a perfect balance in the aquarium, and frequent water changes will therefore be necessary. The aquarists will also have to make sure that processes that would occur on their own in the wild takes place in the aquarium as well. One of these processes is cycling. 
A lot of beginner aquarists start out with a small aquarium, but a large aquarium is actually much easier to keep when it comes to water chemistry. A small piece of food that is left to rot in a small aquarium can pollute the entire environment, while a small piece of rotting food might cause just a slight change in the levels of soluble waste in a really large aquarium where there is much more water that can absorb the systemic shock. 

The cycling process in the aquarium is closely linked to the so called nitrogen cycle. In an enclosed space such as an aquarium, only a part of the nitrogen cycle will take place. Nitrogen will always have to be added from outside the aquarium (which is essentially what you do when you feed your fish).


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## zero (Mar 27, 2012)

ClinicaTerra said:


> so I don't understand when Zero says every test will read absolute "0ppm" when the cycle is complete.
> 
> With regard to introducing a new fish -- we attempted to introduce one of the small goldfish from the 10 gallon into the 60 this afternoon, but when we tried to scoop him, all three freaked out and got stressed, so we immediately stopped because we didn't want to stress any of them more than we have to...


i didnt say every test should read 0. i said ammonia and nitrite should and nitrate should read --ppm. as it it could read 20ppm 30ppm etc. 


when i catch fish i put a little food in to get them to the top then scoop them up from underneath. they dont even know theve been caught till there in the net!


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Interesting suggestion about putting the food in to "catch" them -- I didn't even consider that! Although I don't think these little guys will "go for the bait"...we'll attempt it again, perhaps when we get a new net (we threw our old one out because of the bacterial infection; we tried to scoop the goldie yesterday with an empty paper cup)...

Sorry for the mixup over what you were saying regarding the levels, Zero; I suppose now all I can do is wait this cycle out, taking readings and doing water changes and perhaps moving some fish...


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## zero (Mar 27, 2012)

Trust me my plan has never failed! Yeah def try with a net, gives a better element of surprise!
And yep to to what u said re the cycle. Best thing for fish keepers to learn is patients. Can't rush mother nature!!


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

From what I understand you restarted the tank with new things including plants.

You're getting 0's and high pH.

Nothing at all uncommon for planted tanks.

The plants are consuming ammonia and carbon dioxide and there is not source of nitrates. If you have a source of nitrates then you would see an initial nitrate spike.

But all in all fairly normal "cycle" for new planted tanks.

my .02


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

beaslbob said:


> From what I understand you restarted the tank with new things including plants.
> 
> You're getting 0's and high pH.
> 
> ...


Bob,

This is NOT a planted tank. It will be artificially decorated when complete; right now, all that's in there is new natural-colored gravel, a few tall plants in one corner and a Chinese "temple" decoration off to one side. There are also some pieces of Marineland's "plant mat" that my wife cut up into chunks and imbedded within the gravel in certain areas (she created a kind of "garden" leading up to the Chinese temple decoration, for example) -- but all of this is artificial/plastic decor.

She's actually out at Petsmart right now picking up some cans of food for our dog, and she informed me that she found a "tree stump" decoration that may work for the tank (we are trying to go with a mix of an "Asian" theme for keeping fancy goldfish and a "natural" layout with rock caves/log caves, etc. but this has been difficult to get right and we're doing it in slow stages)...so I will see if that will work when she gets home; if not, we'll exchange it for the "log caves" I noticed that I like...


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

zero said:


> Trust me my plan has never failed! Yeah def try with a net, gives a better element of surprise!
> And yep to to what u said re the cycle. Best thing for fish keepers to learn is patients. Can't rush mother nature!!


I'm definitely not trying to rush mother nature -- but in terms of "having patience" as you subscribe to, are you saying, definitely, all there is to do now is just let the Black Moor do her thing in the tank, take readings and do water changes if necessary? That's all that is going to be required to complete the cycle?


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

ClinicaTerra said:


> Bob,
> 
> This is NOT a planted tank. It will be artificially decorated when complete; right now, all that's in there is new natural-colored gravel, a few tall plants in one corner and a Chinese "temple" decoration off to one side. There are also some pieces of Marineland's "plant mat" that my wife cut up into chunks and imbedded within the gravel in certain areas (she created a kind of "garden" leading up to the Chinese temple decoration, for example) -- but all of this is artificial/plastic decor.
> 
> She's actually out at Petsmart right now picking up some cans of food for our dog, and she informed me that she found a "tree stump" decoration that may work for the tank (we are trying to go with a mix of an "Asian" theme for keeping fancy goldfish and a "natural" layout with rock caves/log caves, etc. but this has been difficult to get right and we're doing it in slow stages)...so I will see if that will work when she gets home; if not, we'll exchange it for the "log caves" I noticed that I like...


Don't worry about Bob, he's lives in his own paradigm that he can't break out of and so used to his own canned phrases he can't keep track of whose thread he is posting in.

Just disregard his comment about ph. Not at all common for a planted tank.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

jrman83 said:


> Don't worry about Bob, he's lives in his own paradigm that he can't break out of and so used to his own canned phrases he can't keep track of whose thread he is posting in.
> 
> Just disregard his comment about ph. Not at all common for a planted tank.


Thanks JR...

But I don't really understand...

My pH levels are _okay_ for goldfish and plastic/artificial decor?


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## zero (Mar 27, 2012)

ClinicaTerra said:


> I'm definitely not trying to rush mother nature -- but in terms of "having patience" as you subscribe to, are you saying, definitely, all there is to do now is just let the Black Moor do her thing in the tank, take readings and do water changes if necessary? That's all that is going to be required to complete the cycle?



yep as simple as that! 

but remember when you add new fish you'll have to moniter for ammonia spikes as your fish are poo machines to put it bluntly!!


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## zero (Mar 27, 2012)

also regarding pH, im not 100% what goldfish are supposed to be kept at but a consistent pH is better that trying to lower it or heighten it in my personal opinion unless you have fish that require something very specific.


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## ClinicaTerra (Nov 12, 2010)

Thanks Zero.


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