# Saltwater Startup Equipment



## Forrest (Sep 6, 2010)

Okay. Here is what I generally know of starting a saltwater aquarium. Please, correct me if I'm wrong. I would also love to hear all the opinions. I know there’s about 30 different ways to go about things, so let me know what you think.  --AND if you have any ideas, I would love brand names or models or links 
For the record - I'm going with a _*REEF TANK*_ (I'm not sure about sps corals yet though...)

STEP 1 - Tank setup
The tank. The tank is a 225 gallon cell-cast acrylic aquarium. 30"w x 25"h x 69" (I think my math is right?  ) I will be building my own sump. Probably a 50 gallon-ish. I'm looking up plans and what not on how to do that. But that’s a different story all together. What I don't know is what water pump I will need for the sump. I can have the tank drilled (but how far below the surface of the tank?). And to my best knowledge, PVC piping of 1" is how you get it down there, and back up. So if anybody can shed some light on that subject that would be wonderful. I will also be building the stand and canopy, as these are some rather odd tank dimensions *n1 (I'll take pictures on that and document it if you'd so like.) Anyhow. Basically I need to know how to work the sump. And what pump to use.

STEP 2 - Lighting
Okay So I've pretty much decided on 4-6 VHO lights, but I understand I need blues for a 'morning', white for a 'daytime', then a 'moonlight'. I know everyone has their opinion with T5s and MHs, but just let me know how I'm doing. I want to put everything on a timer, as I'm usually at school or work when I want it to change. Oh. And I think 3-5 watts per gallon is what I remember reading for corals, but just let me know.

STEP 3 - Cycling
Live sand is BOGO (buy one get one... That's MY acronym to contribute to this forum) on 20 lb bags at my LFS.... 1 pound per gallon? I was looking for 3-4 inches of sand for the substrate. And as far as live rock goes I've heard indo pacific because there are less hitchhikers and it has less of.... some p word, phosphates? that 'slow coral growth' if I remember correctly. So 1 pound per gallon there as well? (Maybe not quite off the bat. That crap is expensive) Then throw some dead freezer shrimp in a mesh bag, clip 'em to the side, and let the tank do its thing? I believe that’s how it goes. Should take 6-8 weeks.

STEP 4 - Equipment
So I need a protein skimmer. Gotcha. The better question is do I do it before or after cycling? As far as I know, I don't need a wave maker, or jets, or a protein skimmer (Will I need a calcium reactor?) until the tank cycles. I don't exactly have all the dough to get it all at once, but I will once the tank cycles  At least, that is my understanding, is there anything else I will particularly need?

STEP 5 - Fish and Corals
Stuff. After cycling. I'm generally aware of compatibility, and if I'm weary or unsure, I'm going to ask you guys before my LFS. *r2

Let me know how I did!

EDIT: Oh, and I'm probably going to buy a RO/DI filter to do weekly 10% water changes. Theres no way I'm paying $1.50 for water, before the instant ocean.


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## GetITCdot (Aug 4, 2009)

Forrest said:


> STEP 1 - Tank setup
> The tank. The tank is a 225 gallon cell-cast acrylic aquarium. 30"w x 25"h x 69" (I think my math is right?  ) I will be building my own sump. Probably a 50 gallon-ish. I'm looking up plans and what not on how to do that. But that’s a different story all together. What I don't know is what water pump I will need for the sump. I can have the tank drilled (but how far below the surface of the tank?). And to my best knowledge, PVC piping of 1" is how you get it down there, and back up. So if anybody can shed some light on that subject that would be wonderful. I will also be building the stand and canopy, as these are some rather odd tank dimensions *n1 (I'll take pictures on that and document it if you'd so like.) Anyhow. Basically I need to know how to work the sump. And what pump to use.


You should try to cycle the tank minimum approx 4 times per hour (MAYBE 3). The more the better. You also have too take into account your head. This is the vertical distance from your pump too the end of the return pipe. I use 1 inch pipe at a vertical head of 13 feet (My sump is in the next floor down) using two mag 36's. Keep in mind if you get a 1,000 GPH pump that is rated with 0 head. So at maybe 5 feet you will only have 500 GPH. So for your tank you need to figure out the head and you need minimum 1100 GPH at the head height. (this is if you use a 50 gallon sump. for a total water volume of 275g)



Forrest said:


> STEP 2 - Lighting
> Okay So I've pretty much decided on 4-6 VHO lights, but I understand I need blues for a 'morning', white for a 'daytime', then a 'moonlight'. I know everyone has their opinion with T5s and MHs, but just let me know how I'm doing. I want to put everything on a timer, as I'm usually at school or work when I want it to change. Oh. And I think 3-5 watts per gallon is what I remember reading for corals, but just let me know.


Just remember not only is it about watts but what kelvin rating you are going to use. Look at the differences between color/growth between 14k and 20k. Also the difference in shimmer, and color of the water itself.



Forrest said:


> STEP 3 - Cycling
> Live sand is BOGO (buy one get one... That's MY acronym to contribute to this forum) on 20 lb bags at my LFS.... 1 pound per gallon? I was looking for 3-4 inches of sand for the substrate. And as far as live rock goes I've heard indo pacific because there are less hitchhikers and it has less of.... some p word, phosphates? that 'slow coral growth' if I remember correctly. So 1 pound per gallon there as well? (Maybe not quite off the bat. That crap is expensive) Then throw some dead freezer shrimp in a mesh bag, clip 'em to the side, and let the tank do its thing? I believe that’s how it goes. Should take 6-8 weeks.


If you actually go with 100 or so pounds of REAL live rock that is active and good. and approx 60-80 lbs of live-sand...you really don't need to 'cycle' your tank per-say. The cycling is already done with the rock and sand.



Forrest said:


> STEP 4 - Equipment
> So I need a protein skimmer. Gotcha. The better question is do I do it before or after cycling? As far as I know, I don't need a wave maker, or jets, or a protein skimmer (Will I need a calcium reactor?) until the tank cycles. I don't exactly have all the dough to get it all at once, but I will once the tank cycles  At least, that is my understanding, is there anything else I will particularly need?


You don't need ANY of this immediately. You can hold off between paychecks its not that big of a deal. Eventually you will want to get some stuff but its not like they all need too be hooked up right then and their.



Forrest said:


> STEP 5 - Fish and Corals
> Stuff. After cycling. I'm generally aware of compatibility, and if I'm weary or unsure, I'm going to ask you guys before my LFS. *r2


Sounds good. If you have a good LFS they should be able to help you aswell.



Forrest said:


> Let me know how I did!
> 
> EDIT: Oh, and I'm probably going to buy a RO/DI filter to do weekly 10% water changes. Theres no way I'm paying $1.50 for water, before the instant ocean.


Yeah RO/DI water is great. But regular tap water+ conditioner (givin you don't have really disgusting water) does the trick in my opinion....then again I use RO/DI water because I just so happened to already have a unit.


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## Forrest (Sep 6, 2010)

GetITCdot said:


> You should try to cycle the tank minimum approx 4 times per hour (MAYBE 3). The more the better. You also have too take into account your head. This is the vertical distance from your pump too the end of the return pipe. I use 1 inch pipe at a vertical head of 13 feet (My sump is in the next floor down) using two mag 36's. Keep in mind if you get a 1,000 GPH pump that is rated with 0 head. So at maybe 5 feet you will only have 500 GPH. So for your tank you need to figure out the head and you need minimum 1100 GPH at the head height. (this is if you use a 50 gallon sump. for a total water volume of 275g)


I'm between...
PUMP 1
MaxHead (ft) - 12
Max GPH - 3000 GPH
GPH at 4 ft - 2280
fitting inlet size - 1-1/2"
Outlet fitting size - 1-1/2"
*OR*
Pump 2
MaxHead (ft) - 38
Max GPH - 3600 GPH
GPH at 4 ft - 3960
fitting inlet size - 1-1/2"
Outlet fitting size - 1-1/2"

Both are the same size, just different horse power. I'm also planning on having 4 Hydor water fans connected to a wave maker. Either all four will be 
the 5 Magnum rated at 1,650 gph, or the 1400 model rated at 1,400 gph. So between the basic pump, whick moves 2280 gph at 4 ft, and 4 of the 1400 gph I should be okay on water flow. (I may be wrong? but will I need the wavemaker at first? or can I get that later?





GetITCdot said:


> Just remember not only is it about watts but what kelvin rating you are going to use. Look at the differences between color/growth between 14k and 20k. Also the difference in shimmer, and color of the water itself.


I'll talk to my LFS and see if they can help me with this, or I'll be back



GetITCdot said:


> If you actually go with 100 or so pounds of REAL live rock that is active and good. and approx 60-80 lbs of live-sand...you really don't need to 'cycle' your tank per-say. The cycling is already done with the rock and sand.


So if I only get 80 lbs of live sand, to make the rest of the substrate should I just go get sand for playgrounds or something?


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## GetITCdot (Aug 4, 2009)

Forrest said:


> I'm between...
> PUMP 1
> MaxHead (ft) - 12
> Max GPH - 3000 GPH
> ...



You dont need a wavemaker just yet. They can always wait as long as you have the powerheads running creating flow.

You will want to go to your LFS and check out live sand. Playground sand WILL work but it will not have any biological effect.


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## Forrest (Sep 6, 2010)

Okay, so all I need right now is the live sand, live rock, tank, lighting, stand and canopy, pump/sump, and fittings and such and I'm good to go till I make sure theres no ammonia or nitrate levels left. And in reguards to drilling. Can anyone tell me about how far beneath the top to drill?


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## GetITCdot (Aug 4, 2009)

Forrest said:


> Okay, so all I need right now is the live sand, live rock, tank, lighting, stand and canopy, pump/sump, and fittings and such and I'm good to go till I make sure theres no ammonia or nitrate levels left. And in reguards to drilling. Can anyone tell me about how far beneath the top to drill?


I usually leave about 2.5-3 inches below the rim to start the top of the circle. It's a matter of personal preference.


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## Forrest (Sep 6, 2010)

GetITCdot said:


> I usually leave about 2.5-3 inches below the rim to start the top of the circle. It's a matter of personal preference.


Okay. And does the pump go inline with the intake of the sump or the out tank?


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## GetITCdot (Aug 4, 2009)

Forrest said:


> Okay. And does the pump go inline with the intake of the sump or the out tank?


The pump will be connected to the return from the sump too the tank. If you are doing an in-line make sure the pump is self priming. If you are doing an in-sump this won't be an issue.


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## archer772 (Nov 8, 2008)

I would jump the drain line up to 2 inch if it was me and keep the return line at an inch. I like going as large as possible for my sump/fuges because it adds water volume, room to add equipment and a larger macro area.

I would strongly suggest you not waste your money on VHO's unless you use them for actinics with MH's instead go with T-5HO's or MH's and the WPG rule doesnt really work IMO. I would run 8 T-5HO's with quality reflectors and run 3 on 1 ballast 3 on another ballast and then 2 on an IC ballast for your noon time blast.

The live rock will be enough to cycle your tank. I would consider getting about 1/3 of your rock in dry base rock and then add the LR on top of it. I dont usually buy LS because of the price and dry sand will become live fairly quickly. What type of sand are you planning to get sugar sand or something a little courser?

I always liked getting my skimmer and PH's running when I setup a tank as it gives the skimmer time to break in and you time to get use to it and make the adjustments needed. The calcium reactors are nice but if you dont plant on SPS's then it might be a waste as weekly or even bi-weekly WC's should keep eveything good. I would waite for at least 6 months before you try adding any SPS's as they need very stable conditions so that will give you time to get a calcium reactor if you decide too.


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## Forrest (Sep 6, 2010)

archer772 said:


> I would jump the drain line up to 2 inch if it was me and keep the return line at an inch. I like going as large as possible for my sump/fuges because it adds water volume, room to add equipment and a larger macro area.


Do you mean 2 inches down or two inches in diameter? And the pump is self priming. I found the same model at my LFS for MUCH cheaper, but heres the link to it I found on a site. Says it must be set up in line. So jsut drill the bottom of my sump and hook it up to get it going?Aquarium Water Movement: Lifegard Aquatics Self-Priming Pumps



archer772 said:


> I would strongly suggest you not waste your money on VHO's unless you use them for actinics with MH's instead go with T-5HO's or MH's and the WPG rule doesnt really work IMO. I would run 8 T-5HO's with quality reflectors and run 3 on 1 ballast 3 on another ballast and then 2 on an IC ballast for your noon time blast.


Okay. Just as a quick refresher for me.... VHO is an actinic form of lighting? like a supplementary? I know T5s are just another form of light, and I know that there are die hard MH users out there, but my concern with those are the amount of heat they're going to make, and they arent exactly energy efficient. and the ballasts.... Those are....



archer772 said:


> The live rock will be enough to cycle your tank. I would consider getting about 1/3 of your rock in dry base rock and then add the LR on top of it. I dont usually buy LS because of the price and dry sand will become live fairly quickly. What type of sand are you planning to get sugar sand or something a little courser?


I'm not sure what type of sand it is. I think it may be a little courser than sugar sand, if at all. I will go check on that today.



archer772 said:


> I always liked getting my skimmer and PH's running when I setup a tank as it gives the skimmer time to break in and you time to get use to it and make the adjustments needed. The calcium reactors are nice but if you dont plant on SPS's then it might be a waste as weekly or even bi-weekly WC's should keep eveything good. I would waite for at least 6 months before you try adding any SPS's as they need very stable conditions so that will give you time to get a calcium reactor if you decide too.


I didn't know skimmers needed a break in period. I'll look into that.


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## archer772 (Nov 8, 2008)

OK I was refering to the diameter of the PVC as in 2 inch diameter so there can be no restrictions and it will take everything your pump can return.

VHO lighting can be used for actinic and daylight but is not very good IMO but VHO makes an excellent Actinic. I would use T-5HOs as they dont produce much heat and are only 54 watts in the 4 foot tubes but produce much higher par than VHO's at a 110 watts and high par is needed for corals. The ballasts are what drives the bulbs and the Ice Cap Ballasts can drive the T-5HO's to about 85 watts. I would run 6 bulbs at there normal wattage with Work Horse Ballast and 2 bulbs with Ice Cap Ballast.


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## Forrest (Sep 6, 2010)

archer772 said:


> OK I was refering to the diameter of the PVC as in 2 inch diameter so there can be no restrictions and it will take everything your pump can return.
> 
> VHO lighting can be used for actinic and daylight but is not very good IMO but VHO makes an excellent Actinic. I would use T-5HOs as they dont produce much heat and are only 54 watts in the 4 foot tubes but produce much higher par than VHO's at a 110 watts and high par is needed for corals. The ballasts are what drives the bulbs and the Ice Cap Ballasts can drive the T-5HO's to about 85 watts. I would run 6 bulbs at there normal wattage with Work Horse Ballast and 2 bulbs with Ice Cap Ballast.


So what color rangest would I need? I know 10k....but thats about all I know. I was going to set up my lighting system as a 'morning' at 8 am (blues im pretty sure, 15-20k?) 'daylight' (10k I think) at 11 am, all the way to 6 pm where it goes back to blue before shutting off at 7-8. So two blues, and 4 whites? Or do I need more variety than that to sustain corals?

EDIT: Do fish care about light? or just as long as they have it they're oaky? I know I said I want a reef tank at the beggining, but I meant reef/fish tank. Guess I should ahve been more specific....


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