# Betta Splendens Care



## MWA_HA_HA (Jun 14, 2012)

Bettas along with goldfish are one of the most mistreated and least understood animals in the world. They are sold in small cups and advertised as great fish for small 1 liter tanks. And fish that do not like larger aquariums. This guide is to prevent any misconceptions. 



*Feeding*
Bettas require a nutritional diet to thrive and ideally should have a high quality staple diet such as omega one flakes/pellets, and a treat such as mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, and bloodworms for best results. These all have a high nutrition content and bettas will gladly appreciate them. You should feed your Betta 1-2 times a day. Feeding them once a night and once in the morning is completely fine. 

*Tail biting*
Tailbiting is very common in long finned or stressed bettas, long fins are heavy to carry around and bother some bettas. I've had many males that bite them off. They can also be stressed or insecure. In tanks with low cover and open areas they can be very stressed and tailbiting is very common in these types of habitats/setups. Tailbiting can be cured by adding cover, moving decorates around monthly or weekly, adding interactive objects, interact with your Betta, or some times even moving to a high traffic or low traffic area

*Tank temperature*
Bettas are tropical fish originating from Thailand and are known to be very inactive in unheated tanks but handle it very well. They can be placed in lower temperatures for short periods of times. But it will have a negative impact on the fish. Ideally you would want to aim for higher temperatures around 78-80 for them to thrive

*Tank size*
Bettas can thrive in a wide range of tank given enough cover, heated water, clean water and the optimal swimming space. A 1 gallon should suffice long term for one Betta given that the requirements are provided for it. Even though I am against placing any type of fish in anything short of 2.5 gallons. Other experienced members such as OFL have had tremendously magnificent results. Some even are known to do better in smaller tanks, I previously owned a blind Betta and he did much better in the 2.5 gallon of compared to the 16 gallon, also. Bettas appreciate a long footprint so a 1 gallon long would be much more better than a 2.5 gallon tall

*Cover*
Most bettas appreciate cover to hide, and swim through. Cover is one of the main reasons that most fish get stressed it and tailbite as without enough cover, they feel insecure and will be very weary. I would recommend broad leafed plants as long finned bettas are somewhat slow fish and appreciate somewhere to rest. I would also recommend leafy plants to hide and swim through for the betta. Ideally y would want more mid-surface cover as this is were most bettas spend the majority of there time

*Water changes*
In anything less than 5 gallons you should ideally do 1 50% and one 100% water changes weekly to minimize ammonia, and nitrites content. In a A tank of that size you shouldn't have to worry about nitrate/nitrite poisoning as nitrates/nitrites are both a result of bacteria oxidizing ammonia into those substances. Cycling doesn't occur as much in tanks less than 5 gallons. In a tnk upwards of 5 gallons. It has the ability to hold a stable cycle, and depending on the stocking. You should do 25-50% water changes. As 100% changes can slightly impact the cycle. 

*water conditioner*
a quality water conditioner is needed for the safety of your Betta. In your tap water there can be a number of things that ensure its safety for you to drink but it's highly toxic to the fish. Chlorines, chloramines, and heavy metals are all highly toxic to fish which is why water conditioner is needed. I would use a water conditioner such as seachem prime. In case you have ammonia in your tap water as well

*Lighting *
Naturally bettas achieve a certain amount of sunlight and darkness daily. They should have around 8-12 hours of daylight and the rest of the day to be darkness to stay healthy. Too much light can keep them stressed as they cant close there eyes 

*Test kit*
A test kit is vital to depicting if your tank is a safe habitat for your Betta, if the water has ammonia, if your tank is cycled and a number of other things. A test kit will help you unstand whether it not your nitrates, ammonia, or nitrites are too high. Sine a Betta can get directly sick from high levels or ammonia or other things that can be picked up by a test kit. It is also helpful to finding the problem and fixing it. Usually ammonia poisoning results in reddened gills, and lethargy. The API test kit is the best kit IMO. As it covers hardness, PH, ammonia, nitrates, and Nitrites.

*Tail types*
There is a number of different tail types of bettas, double tail crowntail (DTCT) round tail (RDT) crowntail (CT) halfmoon (HM) over halfmoon (OHM) rosetail (RT) fearhertail (FT) double veiltail (DTVT) veiltail (VT) double tail (DBT) plakat (PK) double tail plakat (DTPK) crowntail plakat (CTPK) over halfmoon plakat (OHMPK) halfmoon plakat (HMPK) delta tail (DT) super delta tail (SP) single tailed Betta (ST) short finned Betta (SF) Long finned Betta (LF)

*Lifespan*
A bettas average lifespan varies from 2-3 years. With many reaching the age of 5. And rare cases of 10 years. As long as the Betta is provided with the proper requirements. It should live a long healthy life. But don't be alarmed if your Betta only lives a year If you get him/her From a petstore. Petstore bettas are usually a bit older around 1 year. To lengthen there finnagge and make them more appealing to the costumer 

*Betta aggression *

Betta splendens are naturally aggressive. While most bettas found in stores and owned by fish keepers, are domesticated types. They still contain many traits that there wild cousins Havr. Such as aggression. Betta splendens are highly aggressive fish that are territorial and never should be housed together unless in breeding circumstances, or unless it is a female Betta sorority. A common misconception is that female bettas and males can be safely housed together permanatly. You won't believe how many times I've seen threads with. "new member here with issues!" and the information in the thread is regarding lethargically lethargic male or female Betta that have been housed together. One of which has very ripped fins. 

Some things to follow when considering placing male or female bettas in the same aquarium with complete access to eachother with no divider, and not in a breeding situation.

*Disclaimer* --- some or all of these combinations do not apply for grow out tanks, and breeding situations. Also. Everybody have a different fish, each witha different personality, not all bettas do not survive together. But as a guideline they shouldn't be housed together 

Male x male combinations do not work out well unless the tank is heavily planted and 100+ gallons so each one has it's own territory. Aggression should also be constantly monitored. 

Male x Female combinations shouldn't be attempted unless in a breeding situation. Naturally after breeding and when it's not occuring. A male Betta splendens will chase the female away, if she doesn't get out of his territory. He will severely hurt her or kill her. From the constant sight if another Betta. Both will be stressed

Female x female combinations can only work under certain circumstances. Only with 4+ females and a heavily planted tank upwards of 10 gallons should this be attempted. 2-3 bettas won't work as either 2 might pair up and kill the least dominant one or one will kill or constantly bother/stress the other


----------

