# New 75G African Cichlid Project



## tcald429

Went to my local Petsmart on Friday and saw a brand new 75G tank with glass tops and a single fluorescent light listed on sale at $199.99. I noticed the cardboard box inside the tank with the glass tops had written in permanent market "1 Broken". I found a manager and told them I was interested in buying the tank as is if they would discount it due to the broken top. Long story short, I managed to pick up the whole setup for $150.00 which I thought was a heck of a deal for a brand new tank.

I currently have a 55g freshwater community tank, and plan on giving away my current stock and transferring my two aquaClear 70 hob filters and eheim jager to this new 75 gallon and starting my first cichlid tank.

Yesterday I also began attempting my first 3D background to hide my equipment. While it's pretty plain compared to many backgrounds I've seen out there, I am not very artistic and figured this one looked better than none at all haha! I have completed the foam work for the most part and will begin the coating this afternoon. I will keep you all posted as I continue with this build.


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## dalfed

Now is a good time to start reading on African Cichlid compatability, there are many types of Africans and most are not compatible with others. Do you have any stocking ideas in mind?


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## tcald429

dalfed said:


> Now is a good time to start reading on African Cichlid compatability, there are many types of Africans and most are not compatible with others. Do you have any stocking ideas in mind?


I have always preferred the Mbunas aggressiveness/active nature and would like the challenge of keeping them. I really have no interest in breeding and have been strongly considering the all male mbuna tank, just because I think I would enjoy having a bigger variety of species rather than m:f groups. As for specific fish, haven't really gotten that far yet...but open for suggestions and opinions.


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## dalfed

The problem I can see with the all male tank is only in finding a source for the fish, someone knowledgeable and willing to sex juveniles with a large variety may be tough to find. Have never had an all male mbuna tank but am wondering if you will see there aggressive/active behavior without females???


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## dalfed

Went looking for info and found this you may want to read - All-Male Malawi Tank


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## Jet

I have an all male mbuna 210 litres, with the exception of two female haps. It was a pleasant surprise to me how well it is working out. The aggression level is less than that of my tiger barbs in my 150 litre. They ignore the haps. They are all different species except I have two yellow labs, which avoid each other.


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## dalfed

Jet said:


> I have an all male mbuna 210 litres, with the exception of two female haps. It was a pleasant surprise to me how well it is working out. The aggression level is less than that of my tiger barbs in my 150 litre. They ignore the haps. They are all different species except I have two yellow labs, which avoid each other.


Can you give me a list of tankmates, tank setup, and how long you have had this up and running. I am getting interested in the idea and would really like some more info, pic would be great.


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## Jet

In that tank I have one Johanni, one rusty, one ice blue zebra, one red zebra, one cobalt blue, two yellow labs, and then the three haps. These include one female super vc10 and one Malawi eye biter. I also have one male ahli that I've been watching closely. The tank has been set up for only about four months and the only ones showing really any noticeable aggression are the labs when they cross paths (usually they avoid each other) and my cobalt blue, which isn't that bad anyway. If problems develop further on I am prepared to move any individuals to another tank. I can post photographs once I take them, which will be soon.


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## Jet

As for setup I have a Whisper ex 70 but I think I'm switching soon to an Eheim canister or possibly Fluval. My substrate is gravel. I know sand works best for cichlids but my parents bought the filter and gravel for my birthday without consulting me. It is planted but some of the plants are only semi-aquatic so I have to take them out once in a while for air. I have petrified wood and limestone as part of the décor.


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## dalfed

Jet said:


> In that tank I have one Johanni, one rusty, one ice blue zebra, one red zebra, one cobalt blue, two yellow labs, and then the three haps. These include one female super vc10 and one Malawi eye biter. I also have one male ahli that I've been watching closely. The tank has been set up for only about four months and the only ones showing really any noticeable aggression are the labs when they cross paths (usually they avoid each other) and my cobalt blue, which isn't that bad anyway. If problems develop further on I am prepared to move any individuals to another tank. I can post photographs once I take them, which will be soon.


Were your fish purchased as juvies? If so I would like to hear how it's doing in six more months or so(you can keep two lone demasoni males together in a five gallon when juvenile lol)


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## Jet

dalfed said:


> Were your fish purchased as juvies? If so I would like to hear how it's doing in six more months or so(you can keep two lone demasoni males together in a five gallon when juvenile lol)


The ice blue zebra was almost fully grown at about 12 cm when I got him, and the rest were around 6. Since I have had them all of my fish have become more colourful and with exception of the female haps their fins have become more pointed. Luckily the changes are mostly physically related rather than personality. I will post about how things are going once the tank is more mature. When I plugged my stock into the AQ advisor it have me a lot of compatibility warnings, but all I can say is so far it is going well.


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## jrman83

Given that AC tanks are usually purposely overstocked to keep aggression problems down, I personally don't think 2-AC70s will cut it. Maybe 2-110s. I think you need a fairly large canister or at least one that will turn over 5-6 times your water and supplement your current plan. I like filters standing on their own as being able to support a tank, not an aggregate or group of filters approach. Your have no redundancy if they all together make a plan and it is just too easy for the plan to fail. But, I like being over pre-cautious. 

That is just to ensure you don't have mini-cycles going on all the time.


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## tcald429

jrman83 said:


> Given that AC tanks are usually purposely overstocked to keep aggression problems down, I personally don't think 2-AC70s will cut it. Maybe 2-110s. I think you need a fairly large canister or at least one that will turn over 5-6 times your water and supplement your current plan. I like filters standing on their own as being able to support a tank, not an aggregate or group of filters approach. Your have no redundancy if they all together make a plan and it is just too easy for the plan to fail. But, I like being over pre-cautious.
> 
> That is just to ensure you don't have mini-cycles going on all the time.


This is interesting to read because the whole reason I purchased 2 of these AC 70 filters was because I planned to upgrade to an African cichlid 75g in the future. I had always heard 5-6 times the volume, which each AC is rated for 300 GPH. I did the math and figured these two filters would give me 8 times GPH. I also opted to go with two AC70s over one AC110 knowing that if one failed, life could go on while I addressed the issue. If one filter were to drop out, a single AC70 would give me 4 times turnover. I also have a brand new petsmart brand HOB that is also rated 300 GPH in the closet that could be added for an emergency. I understand and agree with the need to be pre-cautious and do not want to take short cuts with this setup. Due to the compromise with my fiancé and having a tank in the living room, she chose an aquarium stand that matches our furniture and it does not have hardly any storage below the tank to hide a canister filter. Is the need to upgrade to 110s immediate or is that something I can upgrade to as I get this aquarium started? Thanks for the good info


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## jrman83

I was saying you'd be better with 2-110s. If the AC70 is rated for 300gph it will only give you 600gph, not 800. One filter is not even rated for your tank by itself, so if one broke down your tank will be in danger. This is what I was talking about being a bad plan, in general...using an aggregate total for your filtration plan. Both your filters add up to what one filter should. They cannot stand alone. Again, these filters keep up with normally stocked tanks, but most things you read about A. Cichlids is you are nearly forced to overstock by design to keep the aggression issues to a minimum.

It is not bad to have these two, but personally I think if you did just a tad too much to one you'd get an ammonia spike. Assuming of course you stock to levels that most recommend. Adding a canister filter would help.

The AC110s are good for 110g tanks and flow 500gph. A little extra safety for an additional $60 (for both) is just a cheap investment. I used to keep 2-AC70s on my 75g. They just don't have the media capacity you will need. I later changed to 110s and they are double the size to hold more media. I no longer own them.


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## tcald429

jrman83 said:


> I was saying you'd be better with 2-110s. If the AC70 is rated for 300gph it will only give you 600gph, not 800. One filter is not even rated for your tank by itself, so if one broke down your tank will be in danger. This is what I was talking about being a bad plan, in general...using an aggregate total for your filtration plan. Both your filters add up to what one filter should. They cannot stand alone. Again, these filters keep up with normally stocked tanks, but most things you read about A. Cichlids is you are nearly forced to overstock by design to keep the aggression issues to a minimum.
> 
> It is not bad to have these two, but personally I think if you did just a tad too much to one you'd get an ammonia spike. Assuming of course you stock to levels that most recommend. Adding a canister filter would help.
> 
> The AC110s are good for 110g tanks and flow 500gph. A little extra safety for an additional $60 (for both) is just a cheap investment. I used to keep 2-AC70s on my 75g. They just don't have the media capacity you will need. I later changed to 110s and they are double the size to hold more media. I no longer own them.


75G times 8 is 600 GPH correct? And I'm not trying to be smart, I'm fairly new to the hobby only having one community 55g for about a year now, just want to make sure I understand how it's calculated. I guess the decision now is to sweet talk to fiancé into a different aquarium stand and upgrade to a canister, or keep her happy and just order 2 AC110s


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## jrman83

I see what you were saying. Thought you were saying 800gph. Many people add a canister with their HOB. You could just get 1-AC110 and then add a canister?

Just recommendations. Your plan may work and never have an issue. I tend to way over-filter all of my tanks, but in doing so I have never had an issue. So I only recommend what my experience has been.


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## tcald429

My mom happened to text me today asking what I wanted for Christmas...and the first thing that came to my mind was AC110s haha. Can anyone tell me the difference between an AC70 and AC110 in the following dimensions so I can ensure my 3D background will accept the larger filters?

- Overall Width of AC 110
- is there a difference in the intake tube between the AC70 and 110? I need to know if the diameters are the same as well as if the 110 protrudes out into the tank and deeper into the tank than a 70.

Hopefully I can find someone with a couple of these laying around who can help me out.

Thanks!


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## coralbandit

The lid on my 110 is 14" by 7".About 5" is outside the tank(depends on the adjustment arm).The tube is larger then on my 50,it is probly 3/4-1".The tube only goes into tank about 9" but I think you can get extensions(mines on my 33Long so is within inches of bottom).


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## tcald429

coralbandit said:


> The lid on my 110 is 14" by 7".About 5" is outside the tank(depends on the adjustment arm).The tube is larger then on my 50,it is probly 3/4-1".The tube only goes into tank about 9" but I think you can get extensions(mines on my 33Long so is within inches of bottom).


Excellent quick info, i didn't realize how much bigger it was, and it's safe to say the intake tube is all the way to the left hand side like the AC70?


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## tcald429

coralbandit said:


> The lid on my 110 is 14" by 7".About 5" is outside the tank(depends on the adjustment arm).The tube is larger then on my 50,it is probly 3/4-1".The tube only goes into tank about 9" but I think you can get extensions(mines on my 33Long so is within inches of bottom).


Also, my AC 70 lid is 6&1/4", a little shy of 7". Can you confirm if it was 7" on the money, if so I will have to add another layer of foam to my background. Thanks!


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## coralbandit

6 3/4 x 13 3/4 tight.The body of the filter (outside the tank) tapers from 4"on top to 3 1/2 on bottom.The intake tube is on the left looking at it on back of tank from the front.


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## tcald429

The more I read about all male mbuna tanks, the more I get nervous about trying it. I'm starting to lean towards maybe a 4 species tank. There are so many to pick from, it's hard to choose. One mbuna that has really stood out to me is the Pseudotropheus sp. Williamsi North aka Blue Lips. 










I see these can get up to 7", will these be too large for a 75 gallon tank?


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## tcald429

*Equipment/Materials*
Tank: 75 Gallon Glass - 48"L, 18"W, 21"H with Glass Tops
Filtration: 2 Ea. AquaClear 110 HOB Filters
Heater: Eheim Jager 150W (Thinking about purchasing a larger heater to replace the 150W or possibly run them simultaneous)
Lighting: 48"-52" Quad Double Bright LED Aquarium Light Fixture with Timer Module
Substrate: Pool Filter Sand
Rock: No clue what kind it is, but I had this readily available and decided to put some in my 55G temporarily to see if I would like the look. Here is a picture of the decor removed from my 55G and some of the rock installed.









*Stock*
Pseudotropheus sp. williamsi 1M:7F
Cynotilapia sp. hara 1M:4F
Labidochromis caeruleus 1M:4F

*1-5-14 Progress Update*
I currently have the tank and all the equipment/substrate/rocks minus 1 aquaclear 110 that has been ordered. I plan on using filter media from my AC70 filters on my 55g tank to seed the new AC110s, I might even just begin running my AC110s on my 55G now to prepare them for the trade. Not much progress on the background, with the change from the AC70s to the AC110s, it's going to have to be changed a good bit. Haven't decided if I want to scrap the first one and start over, or just modify the first one for the bigger filters.

Besides finishing the background, the last piece of the puzzle will be waiting in my aquarium stand and canopy to be completed. I decided to scrap my current petsmart stand and have my uncle (owns a custom cabinet shop) make me a new one that will match my living room furniture. We had a little hiccup in the stand build, or a miscommunication, and the tank height dimension I gave him of 21"he interpreted as the stand height. Needless to say, at the moment I have a great looking extremely short stand. On Monday he will begin adding height to the stand, to get it up to about 36" to the bottom of the tank. Once that is finished, the entire stand and canopy will be stained to a chocolate brown finish.

Current lower stand that will be made taller:









Canopy (has a removal top not pictured as well as the two doors on the front are hinged):









So far my total build cost is right at $1000.00.

I think my biggest question I still have concerning this build is how to introduce my planned stock to this tank. I would like to start the tank off with all juveniles, as I would enjoy watching them grow. 
- How many juveniles of each species do you think I should introduce, in order to have the best changes of ending up with the ratios above? I understand that I will have to reduce the number of males/females as they get old enough to sex to prevent over crowding.
- How far apart should I wait to introduce each group of juveniles? I was thinking 1-2 weeks between each species so I do not introduce to much bioload at one time.


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## tcald429

I've also been researching the best food for mbuna, wow what an array of opinions when it comes to this topic. I've heard alot about NLS pellets, Omega 1 Cichlid Flakes, New Era Green pellets. Some people say pellets cause bloat due to slower digestion then flake. Some people like a mixture of both. I don't know where to begin!


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## coralbandit

Can't say about fish,But I am jealous of your uncles shop!You truely have a custom furniture maker hooking you up(ask me how I know)!Wish it wasn't -5 degrees here in NY.
Can't wait to see this all set up!


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## coralbandit

A set of drawers on top(not full depth for plumbing) and a pedestal could save that stand intact.Mere additions to an already beautiful piece.


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## tcald429

coralbandit said:


> A set of drawers on top(not full depth for plumbing) and a pedestal could save that stand intact.Mere additions to an already beautiful piece.


Wish I would have thought of the drawers, not a bad idea. The plan in the works is to make another stand on the bottom just a tad but larger that the current stand will sit into. He acted like it wouldn't be too big of a chore, looking forward to seeing what he comes up with. He hopes to give me access to this area for storage as well, it should be about 15" tall or so.


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## coralbandit

Sounds excellent.Builders are creative(he he) about fixing "mistakes".storage on the bottom will be great also.Can't wait to see it.Really shouldn't be a big deal for him,the shop is for real and only people who know how to use all those tools have them!The huge sander caught my eye as I am still only having an 18" open ended sander(can sand 36" boards).


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## tcald429

More goodies came in today, two battery powered air pumps and some air stones, these pumps will kick on automatically when the power goes out, a little peace of mind being from south Louisiana with frequent hurricanes and tropical storms.


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## tcald429

*1-31-14 Progress Update*

Just purchased 14 Ea. Pseudotropheus sp. Williamsi juveniles from a breeder in New Jersey, he is holding them for me until I finish the tank setup. The aquarium stand has progressed a good bit but is still not complete. Understandably, the real cabinet business comes before the family business, but all that is left is a final sanding and staining. I have also located a breeder with yellow lab juvies about an hour away from me, who I will be picking up 10 Ea. from. I am still working on locating the cynotilapia sp. hara juvies to finish off my stock list for this build.


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## tcald429

*2-22-14 Progress Update*

Never thought this day would come but the stand is finally finished. All and all i'm pretty happy with the outcome despite the original miscommunications. The biggest downfall of the way the stand turned out is the 4 small doors below the aqaurium. I would have preferred just 2 taller doors, allowing me room to upgrade to canister filters. The tallest canister filter I will be able to run can only be about 16" tall which is pretty limiting. Now the real fun begins...


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## coralbandit

Looks super NICE!
What about drilling a hole to "hold " the canister allowing you to use full hieght of stand?Maybe even just cut out some(of the dividing level) with a jig saw?


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## tcald429

coralbandit said:


> Looks super NICE!
> What about drilling a hole to "hold " the canister allowing you to use full hieght of stand?Maybe even just cut out some(of the dividing level) with a jig saw?


I thought about the same thing actually, but sure hate to cut it up already...I just got it home haha! I have two options, cut two large "notches" in the back of the canopy for my AC110s...or cut the divider inside the bottom and upgrade to a canister or two instead...i should have thought of this before I purchased the two AC110s!!

I re-measured and have 16" of height clearance. I have been looking at canisters and have found the following options:

Keep my 2 Ea. AC 110s and Cut My Canopy
2 Ea. FilStar XP M Canisters, 14 & 3/4" Tall, Total of 600 GPH = No Cutting
2 Ea. Fluval 306 Canisters, 14.4" Tall, Total of 606 GPH = No Cutting

Or Cut the Divider in the stand bottom and unlimited options...

I have read many good things about Ehiem Classics for flow rate and quietness, but it seems there GPH rating wouldnt be high enough for an overstocked mbuna setup...opinions?


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## coralbandit

No one is going to see or care about the inside of the cabinet,it is beautiful! you could make anything fit in it and as far as 4 doors go I have not seen another like it(we call that custom in the manufacturing world and it usaully cost more $$$$)!


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## TroyVSC

tcald429 said:


> 2 Ea. Fluval 306 Canisters, 14.4" Tall, Total of 606 GPH = No Cutting


I measured my Fluval 306 because I thought it was taller than what you posted. With the hoses sticking out of the top mine is nearly 17" tall. You might be able to squeeze it into 16" but it will be a tight fit and will be hard to disconnect the hoses and later the top part of the unit when doing maintenance on the filter. Just thought I would pass that info on. Not sure about the height of the Ehiem. Either way both are great filters. The Fluval is really easy to open and do maintenance.


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## tcald429

TroyVSC said:


> I measured my Fluval 306 because I thought it was taller than what you posted. With the hoses sticking out of the top mine is nearly 17" tall. You might be able to squeeze it into 16" but it will be a tight fit and will be hard to disconnect the hoses and later the top part of the unit when doing maintenance on the filter. Just thought I would pass that info on. Not sure about the height of the Ehiem. Either way both are great filters. The Fluval is really easy to open and do maintenance.


Thanks for the info Troy, I've just about committed myself to cutting the inside of the stand to fit a larger canister. My next hurdle is making sure it will fit through the small cabinet doors.

I have actually been talking to a few people and am contemplating a Fluval FX6. I could place it into the stand through the top, prior to setting the tank on top and filling with water.  From what I have read, there is a drain valve on the bottom that would let me drain the entire filter where it sits for maintenance. I could take the top off of the canister and remove the media trays one by one through the front door for cleaning outside of the stand. This would only leave me to whipe the inside of the canister inside of the stand. Even the impellor/motor assembly could be removed from the filter and cleaned outside of the stand if needed. The only large fear would be to have the filter fail, causing me to drain the entire tank if it needed to be removed. But I believe that would be highly unlikely for the first couple years, and by then I will want a bigger tank anyways!


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## tcald429

Changed my mind on the FX6, choosing a canister is overwhelming. I picked up a single fluval 406 last night and it looks like this one will fit the stand no problem with minor cutting. I will go pick up a second one now that I know this is a fit. Thanks for the help, hope to have this thing together soon.

I also decided to scrap my 3d background and just order one of the premade ones, so that should be the last piece of the puzzle to get this thing up and running.


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## TroyVSC

Two 406's that should be some really good filtration. Want a 3d background for my 80 but only doing it if its DIY.

Make sure to post pics when you get the 3d background.


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## tcald429

Holes cut for both fluval 406s!


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## tcald429

Another angle


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## tcald429

Background siliconed in, both 406 canisters plumbed, lights in. Won't be long!


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## TroyVSC

Awesome can't wait to see fish in there.


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## tcald429

Received my first species this morning, 10 cynotilapia sp. hara. they are being houses in my 55G temporarily until I finish this project.


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## tcald429

Added rock and substrate, think it needs a little green to set it off. Looking forward to getting the new fish moved over in a couple days.


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## jrman83

Couldn't hardly tell there was water in it. Looking good!


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## tcald429

Playing around, added a couple of those fake marine land 3' bamboo plants. Not sure if I like them yet but definitely like the added touch of green


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## coralbandit

The tank is looking very nice!
I'm sure you know,but make sure your rock piles are on the glass(bottom of tank), as your future tenants will dig out the sand under them and we don't want the rocks to fall over!.
When I helped my buddy set up his 300 g african tank he piled up the rocks and then dumped all the sand and gravel in ,and I thought what are you doing?2 weeks later those fish had moved that sand to wherever they wanted and I could actually see the bottom of the tank in places!


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## tcald429

coralbandit said:


> The tank is looking very nice!
> I'm sure you know,but make sure your rock piles are on the glass(bottom of tank), as your future tenants will dig out the sand under them and we don't want the rocks to fall over!.
> When I helped my buddy set up his 300 g african tank he piled up the rocks and then dumped all the sand and gravel in ,and I thought what are you doing?2 weeks later those fish had moved that sand to wherever they wanted and I could actually see the bottom of the tank in places!












Thanks for double checking though, I tend to get addicted to research when it comes to fish lol


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## coralbandit

It looked like rocks were well settled,but better safe then sorry!You got it going on!Can't wait to see with fish,it is a great looking set up!


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## tcald429

Better pic of one of the cynotilapia sp. hara


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## tcald429

Picked up my yellow lab juvies this morning...









Just need the weather up north to clear up so my pseudotropheus sp. williamsi can be shipped


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