# New Tank, Cycling and Stocking Advice Please



## smogger (May 16, 2011)

Hi Everybody!

I'm starting a new community tank using the 29 gallon Marineland LED kit, with the Penguin 200 bio-wheel. Going to start cycling the tank as soon as I get my stand in the mail. Has anybody had luck using the raw shrimp method? Don't have access to any gravel or filter cartridges from a functional tank, so I think I'll try the shrimp or just use actual ammonia. I've also been thinking about how I'm going to stock the tank. This will br gradual of course, but I'm looking at a few variations for the fully stocked tank. Can anyone tell me if there are problems I should be worried about with any of the mixes below. Mostly worried about fin nipping and such...Most of the list is open to change, but I really want some Sailfin Mollies and my girlfriend really wants a dwarf frog, so any advice about working those in would be great! Also planning to have at least 3-4 low light plants in the tank (hope the led can support them). Thanks to anyone who has the time to respond!

Idea 1
Rummy Nosed, Lemon, or Black Skirt Tetras x 6
Sailfin Mollies x 3 (prefer 1 male, 2 females)
Dwarf Frog x 1
Rubberlipped or Bristlenose Pleco x 1
Bamboo Shrimp x 1

Idea 2
Dwarf Gourami x 1
Sailfin Mollies x 3
Rummy Nosed, Lemon, or Black Skirt Tetras x 5
Peppered Cory x 3
Dwarf Frog x 1

Idea 3
Sailfin Mollies x 5
Peppered Cory x 3
Dwarf Forg x 1
Rubberlipped or Bristlenose Pleco x 1


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## plecosrawesome (Mar 1, 2011)

i think idea three is the best in my opinion because the mollies will breed and take up alot of space in the tank unless you get all males or all females..also, the bristlenose or rubberlip is a good idea because it will keep the tank clean, i think you should do maybe 2 or 3 dwarf frogs inatead of 1 just to make it more interesting, and the corys sound really cool as long as you have good spots for them, and the pleco and frog to hide..i think they will all get along well


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## BBradbury (Apr 22, 2011)

Hello smogger. I follow an easy way to cycle a tank, here it is: Set up the tank with filter, heater, aeration and potting soil covered by pea gravel substrate. Fill the tank by half and spacing them about two inches apart to allow for growth, plant as many plants as you can organize and get into the tank.

Fill the tank the rest of the way and turn everything on. Wait for one month while you take a break from water changes or anything else tank related because you're done with it for 30 days. This break gives you plenty of time to admire your work and research anything else you have planned for your tank.

At the end of the month, add a few small fish you've decided on and you're done. You didn't have to mess with any cycling chemicals, testing kits or sacrificing any cheap fish. You just follow a regular tank maintinance schedule from now on.

B


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## Rohkey (Apr 25, 2011)

It could be a little difficult to cycle with a heavy plantload because the plants will consume ammonia and nitrate (if ammonia isn't available) so you'll have to figure out how much ammonia to add so that both the plants and the filter gets enough, but I would think fishless cycling with plants, and allowing the plants to grow and such before fish were introduced, would be a good idea as long as you can still 'feed' the filter the appropriate amount of ammonia.


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## BBradbury (Apr 22, 2011)

Hello Rohkey. The nutrients in the organic potting soil and growing plants will generate more than enough bacteria to cycle the tank over the 30 days. I can't really tell you any more than that other than it works. 

B


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## smogger (May 16, 2011)

Thanks for the advice everyone. I think I might skip the tetras and focus on giving the Mollies enough space.

Does anyone think it would be better to wait until after the tank has cycled to add the plants, or will they actually help with the cycling process? I know there are concerns with them sucking up the ammonia before the bacteria have a chance to consume it. Also, is a layer of potting soil really necessary for 3-4 low light plants (I'm thinking java mosses, ferns, and/or crypts)? I don't want my plants to die, but I'm afraid the soil might cloud the water, even under a layer of gravel. This will be my first planted tank, so I could use all the advice I can get. Maybe I could just put a little soil directly under the base of each plant and cover it with gravel to hold it down. Are there any concerns about fertilizers or chemicals in the soil hurting my fish? 

Thanks Guys!


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## Rohkey (Apr 25, 2011)

Oh I believe it. Looking back, I kinda wish I would have cycled my tank in such a manner.


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## Rob72 (Apr 2, 2011)

welcome Smogger, good luck and i would listen to BB he does know what he is talking about, he helped me out and my tank is going great, but welcome and good luck
Rob


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## smogger (May 16, 2011)

Thanks again everyone, this forum is so helpful.

Yes, I think I will listen to BB. I didn't notice at first he said "organic" potting soil. That soothes some of my fears of chemicals and what not in the soil. I just hope my LED is strong enough for my plants. It would kind of suck to set up the substrate properly only to have my plants starve for light, but how much light does a java moss or fern really need? Unfortunately, with the way the hood is on the Marineland 29 LED kit, I wouldn't be able to supplement the lighting without a totally different hood, or removing the hood altogether. Any thoughts?

P.S. Anyone have issues with algae while cycling a planted tank? If so, any ideas to avoid or resolve the problem? I'm definitely going to be getting a rubberlipped or bristlenose pleco as soon as the tank is cycled, so that should help after the fact. I know if the tank weren't planted I could just leave the light off while it was cycling, eliminating the problem, which is the only other reason I was considering cycling before adding plants.


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