# Questions about Saltwater tank



## No face (Jul 22, 2010)

Hey guys I recently started my first 29g saltwater tank (I know, I know..). But anyway, I have a few questions. Okay so it is not the second week of cycling. I never got any ammonia readings, but on the 5th day I had .25 nitrite maybe? I find those API test kits to be really hard to use..matching up the colors and all that. But now I have 0 Ammonia, 0 NitrIte, and 0 NitrAte *frown I am using cured rock, live sand, and that pre-mixed saltwater stuff from Petco. Also I have another question.. I plan on just getting 1 fish for about a month so can anyone recommend the fish that I could put in there? And can someone recommend a clean up crew? Should I add the CUC right after the tank cycles? Or about a week or 2 after it's done? Sorry I know this is just a wall of text but can someone please answer my questions? Thanks. *c/p*
-Corey


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## fishstyx724 (May 13, 2010)

For the cleanup crew - I use snails, hermit crabs, an emerald crab and a sally-light foot crab. I have a 45g tank, and I got 20 snails and 20 hermit crabs who seem to be doing the job well.


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## fishstyx724 (May 13, 2010)

Oh - and to answer your question, I put the CUC in after the first 2 weeks, waited a few more weeks then added my first fist. My first fish was a midas blennie. I've heard clown fish are very hardy and good choices for an early tank.


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## No face (Jul 22, 2010)

Thanks for the CUC suggestions but can you answer my cycling question?


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## fishstyx724 (May 13, 2010)

I'm not really that knowledgable re that stuff - but I can tell you that with my test kit (reefmaster), the calcium test says to count the drops 'until the purple solution turns blue', but everyone I've talked to says that you count the drops until the color changes at all, which is often quite a few drops before it actually turns blue-blue...if that makes any sense.


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## No face (Jul 22, 2010)

*c/p*


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## GetITCdot (Aug 4, 2009)

fishstyx724 said:


> I'm not really that knowledgable re that stuff - but I can tell you that with my test kit (reefmaster), the calcium test says to count the drops 'until the purple solution turns blue', but everyone I've talked to says that you count the drops until the color changes at all, which is often quite a few drops before it actually turns blue-blue...if that makes any sense.


mine is count the drops until the water changes from anything other then clear


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

For a starter fish I recommend a single male molly. Acclimate it slowly to saltwater and watch parameters. Don't add food the first week.

Once you can keep a molly for a few weeks the tank (and you) are probably ready for the more expensive marine only fish.

my .02


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## No face (Jul 22, 2010)

Ha, thanks for all the answers..but can someone answer my first question please?*H2


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## Raimond (Jul 12, 2010)

All test kits are a bit difficult to read, just too subjective. Except for the electronic instruments which are very reliable once calibrated. I like the API test kits, they are the easiest too read from my experience, and the most cost effective if on a budget.
It sounds to me like the cycle process has not started, you will see a definite increase in the ammonia then nitrite reading if you are checking the tank every day or so. Did you add anything to start the process like a shrimp you bought at the grocery store? Buy some, put one in the tank and cook the rest for yourself. Or you could put some ammonia in the tank directly. Don't use the ones that contain dyes or such. 
I hope these are the questions you were requesting...


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## nina-zh (Jul 23, 2010)

I think you should consider to use other kinds of aquarium tools to help you to contral the environment of you tank 

Such as aquarium thermometer to test the temperature,use salinity refractometer to test the salinity of water ,so that your marine live in a comfortable environment and away from illness....

Contact detail: 
Tel:+852-66536346
MSN& Email:[email protected]


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## No face (Jul 22, 2010)

I have all of the stuff i need..filter etc. I heard that if you use cured rock you will go through a very short cycle..is this true? By the way I have been adding fish food


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## Raimond (Jul 12, 2010)

In your opening post you mention cured rock and live sand. Now you are asking about live rock. Did you get your sand direct from a established aquarium or was it dry when you put it in the tank? 
Live means it is established with bacteria already living in the rock/sand. If you take rock or sand from a healthy aquarium and put it directly/quickly into your tank then you are introducing the needed bacteria into your tank. If you also put dry rock in at the same time than the tank will still mini or major cycle depending on the ratio of live/dry. There are products that promise a complete cycle in just 3 days. I have never tried it but it sounds too good to be true. Nothing good happens overnight in this hobby.
Please clarify your rock and sand status.


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## No face (Jul 22, 2010)

Thanks for responding. My rock was taken from a LFS inside a fish tank..with fish. My sand is "live" from a bag kinda thing. It was wet and had some water inside..you know the "instant cycling" kind. Hope that clears things up


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## Raimond (Jul 12, 2010)

You have all the right elements, live sand and live rock. Im no expert, only had my tank for 3 years but it could be that your tank is fully cycled and ready for your CUC and a fish.
Be sure to check your PH and temp before adding anything live to it. Also you need to acclimate your animals before putting them in the tank. What part of Va do you live?


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## No face (Jul 22, 2010)

About 70ish miles from Richmond (Dumfries) what about you?


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## JoeT (Jul 11, 2010)

Raimond said:


> . There are products that promise a complete cycle in just 3 days. I have never tried it but it sounds too good to be true. Nothing good happens overnight in this hobby.
> Please clarify your rock and sand status.


I used some of that 3 day cycle stuff in my tank, and it seemed to work well.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

Let me take a stab at your first question. Which I think is basically is it possible to have a fast cycle with little or no ammonia/nitrItes?

Short answer ---yes. *old dude

The ammonia->nitrItes->nitrates nitrogen cycle is based solely on aerobic bacterial action. And you will see that in a tank that was started totally pristine (or sterile).

With the presence of live plant action (like various algaes) you basically toss that out the window. What happens in the algae (even corraline on live rock) actually prefers to consume ammonia directly but in mature systems that have already built up the aerobic bacteria, nitrates is the only nitrogen source avaiable.

With with sufficient live algae you get no ammonia nor nitrIte spikes. With a possible initial nitrate spike because there are still nitrate sources in the new tank but the algae is ignoring. But aerobic bacteria still slowly builds up consuming more and more of the ammonia and nitrIte. Meanwhile back at the algae, the algae has less and less ammonia so in a few weeks has to use nitrates for its nitrogen. At that point nitrates, if present, drop down. Before that point there was little to no ammonia or nitrIte spikes.

So the planted "cycle" is actually a possible initial bump up of nitrates then after three or four weeks nitrates (if present) drop down.

Gee isn't that all confusing? all this ammonia->nitrIte->nitrates may never be realized in newly started tanks.

So let me simplify. 



beaslbob said:


> *Take care of the plant life (algaes, and macro algaes) and the plant life will take care of your tank*.


What I reccommend is using macro algaes in a well lit refugium (even just a tank partition) to balance out and stabilize the tank. then do the rest.

my .02


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