# Use of air stones in planted tanks



## Aquaman55g (Oct 5, 2010)

I am in the process of consolidating my 40 gal breeder and my 55 gal planted aquariums into a 125 gal to 150 gal large planted tank. My 40 gal has no CO2 just flourish and liquid micro nutrients with T5HO lights probably a bit too close to the top of the tank as there is hair algae on rocks and wood - this tank also has an air stone going.
My 55 gal while also planted has pressurized CO2 measured by a drop checker and receives both Macro and Micro dry nutrients also under a T5HO light but suspended 12 plus inches above the glass lids with virtually no algae present.
My question is - do most people in the hobby of planted aquariums use an air stone or just agitate the surface of the water water with a filter output.
I recently viewed a video during which the owner of a large, beautifully planted aquarium stated that it was a mistake to add an air stone to a planted tank as this would affect gas exchange and other parameters in the aquarium and it was better to just have enough filter output to agitate or move the surface water without creating bubbles? Just looking to find out if there is a consensus because I will not add one if it is doing nothing for the fish or plants! Thanks to all responding members :betta:


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## Raymond S. (Jan 11, 2013)

First, the plants use the Co2 but in return create oxygen. A filter will cause sufficient water agitation to give more
oxygen to the water than it would have without any surface agitation. That is if the filter is one of those which pour
water back into the tank from over the top of it. I don't have and I doubt they have any table/chart which tells the
difference between having a filter and having both a filter and air stone going in the same tank. It does cause
more water to contact the surface and therefore must cause the loss of more Co2 due to it being able to contact
the air where any exchange is made...but just how much ?
Most know that old one inch per gallon rule and most know it's bogus or at least just a very loose guideline.
But in "the good old days" "they" also used to say "if your fish don't come up to breath air from the surface then
you are not overstocked"
I say this because that's what would make the difference between if you didn't need that agitation at all or needed it.
My filters run off of air pumps so I'd be caught between that rock and a hard place but then I don't have the water
coming out of the filter pouring down into my tank so perhaps it would be almost equal.
With one of those filters you certainly don't "need" air bubbles coming from a stone so less Co2 would be lost.
But just how much more or less...? After the initial cost of set up the injection would cost less to use than Excel
in a tank that big but still I wouldn't waste it by adding yet another way for it to escape the water.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

1^ with Raymond.You never mentioned your filter?
But if you maneged your 55gl then I would follow same procedure(drop checker...)
Adding an air stone will only allow out gasing of co2 which is simply solved by using a timer,ph meter to controll the injection.
I'd not use an air stone if I could control the co2 .


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## plantedaquastore (Jul 15, 2013)

If you are looking to do a low light low maintance tank (w/c every two weeks, ferts dosing every week), all you need is to have a small ripple of water from your filter. Dose excell daily and NO airstone.


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## Aquaman55g (Oct 5, 2010)

Yes I forgot to mention my filtration for the big tank. I plan to run a Fluval FX6 with a spray bar and also an Aquatop CF500UV with an output that creates a gentle flow or current. I also am planning to eventually upgrade to a plant appropriate LED light fixture. This tank will have a pressurized CO2 system and will be dosed with both Macros and Micros in dry form on a 6 day schedule. Thanks. :betta:


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## jccaclimber2 (May 6, 2012)

Airstones are really handy tools to get water flow in areas which might not otherwise have much, and you would be amazed at the dead spots that form in planted tanks. Every now and then a squeeze out a sponge filter in to my sump and then use the diatom cloud that follows to visualize the flow through my display tank. Most of the tank is opaque within 30 seconds, but the area under the overflow/return and the two corners near it take 10 minutes to cloud up even though they look fairly open.
If you don't have any surface scum in your tank your surface ripple is probably fine. If you do, a bit more turnover of water in the tank as well as surface agitation may help.

In my display tank I run an airstone at night (any increase in competition for ammonia can't hurt), although not during the day so as to avoid off-gassing any more CO2 than needed.

With your 150 if you plan to crank the CO2 closer to its limit be careful as to how your surface movement changes with evaporation. With my tank and sump full the fish get just a bit lethargic if my CO2 is too high. At the end of the week as the water level has dropped a bit and there is more surface movement from the return, everybody is fine. Where this can catch you is a mid-week CO2 adjustment (ok with the lower water level/more ripple) that turns in to a bit too much once the tank is more full. This is only an issue if you're near the edge to begin with, or go from lots of movement to none between water changes.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

It doesn't matter what type of filter you have, the filters will provide more air to your tank than the air stone. Air stones in planted tanks are not that uncommon. Not many with pressurized CO2 use I don't think though. Either way, if you are using CO2 just run it when your light and CO2 are off. I find I generally don't have the room for it due to the amount of plants I have.


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## ThatNewGuy (Sep 11, 2013)

I've got to say I've had better luck with my low tech planted without an airstone. With they tend to get a stressed look to them.


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