# Newly Acquired 300g Help



## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

Hey Guys, got a great deal on this 300g "Acrylic clarity plus tank" and stand. In the process of cleaning and planning. It use to be a reef tank, so filled it with vinegar and water and letting it soak to remove coral while waiting for my acrylic scraper to gets here.

Plan on moving my Oscar and getting him a mate. Haven't figure out other tank mates, but probably only 2-3 other big fellas. 

I think I'm going to move it to the other side of the room where the ceiling is higher. Top is awkward (see pictures), and it's hard to clean, because I can't reach the bottom. I'm going clean it best I can while water is in it - drain it, move it, and while it's on the floor fine tune the cleaning and polishing, putting in backgrounds, and a few decorations that do not weigh too much. My daughter is small enough to fit through the openings to get inside and clean the tough reaching spots. 

Can you guys advise me on filtration, lights, and any unforeseen problems I may encounter? I would appreciate your feedback tremendously. I'm open to all suggestions. Thanks you in advance for always being there for us.


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## Manafel (Sep 4, 2011)

Quite the find! looks really nice too. You could easily do a couple of different filtration options. You could get a sump(if the overflow boxes in the tank are still solid) or you could do a couple of canisters. I personally recommend the fluval FX5 for a tank that size. I have a fluval fx5 and a eheim 2262 on my 200 gal and my water is crystal clear. For a tank that size as far as tankmates go, you have a lot of options. I have always like the geophagus species. Or you could do some larger SA/CA cichlids like Jack dempseys, severums, midas, and green terrors... there is just so much to choose from


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## Buerkletucson (Apr 8, 2014)

I vote for (2) Fluval FX6 canisters.........Awesome! *w3
You need a lot of mechanical filtration with those big fish and the FX6 has that for sure.

Nice tank!
I'm envious.


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

So 2 will be enough? Thanks guys great info.

BTW: He also gave me three fans that I can run for circulation. I'm so excited in a manly way of course..


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## Buerkletucson (Apr 8, 2014)

Fadil13 said:


> So 2 will be enough? Thanks guys great info.
> 
> BTW: He also gave me three fans that I can run for circulation. I'm so excited in a manly way of course..


I would think (2) FX6's would do the job nicely....
You could add some power heads for more circulation and to keep things stirred up so the canisters can pull it in. 

Excited, I bet! *w3


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## joecrouse (Feb 3, 2014)

Scuba gear or at least a snorkel.


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## Buerkletucson (Apr 8, 2014)

joecrouse said:


> Scuba gear or at least a snorkel.


*r2


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

It is a total waste if this tank has built in skimmers and you don't use a sump filter!!!!!!!!!!
I'm the one who owns 3 canisters and uses NONE OF THEM!!!!!!!


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

coralbandit said:


> It is a total waste if this tank has built in skimmers and you don't use a sump filter!!!!!!!!!!
> I'm the one who owns 3 canisters and uses NONE OF THEM!!!!!!!


Ok - I hear you, but I'm not following - you know I'm public school - so what do you mean? Speak slowly - and make believe I'm an idiot - and you'll be on point. lol My first thought was sump, but I'm not fully understanding how the sump thing work. A few more hundred videos and I should have it.. Suppose to go look at one tomorrow - hopefully the guy can explain it to me. I'm more of a hands-on kind of guy. The previous owner was using a sump, and gave me all the plumbing he was using, but like I said - he had a reef tank. 

Not sure if you can make out from the picture, but this is the corner which one side just has two holes top and bottom which I was going use for WCs, and the other side I believe is for the sump. When I move the tank to the other side of the room, I'll pay more attention, and figure out what kind of plumbing I'm going use while it's on the floor where I can see better. I've been focusing on cleaning right now. I'm also noticing my floor is not leveled, because as I'm cleaning the tank is moving a little which scares the hell out of me, so I'm going drain it and make sure it's stable. I definitely don't want a ton of water rocking..


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Surface extraction(water going through those teeth) is the best most natural way to move water there is.It is how all lakes stream rivers work.
A sump can be as simple as a rubber maid tote with a return pump, or as eloborate and crazy as you can make it.
You don't need to buy a sump or be super educated(it is water and gravity{nothing more}).Water will go out through those teeth and one of the holes in that chamber"overflow".The other hole is for return line of the pump.
Any aquarium or rubbermaid tote that fits in stand will work.My sump for my 180g is in my basement(thanks to a nice 4" hole I drilled through bottom of stand and my livingroom floor!
I'll link you to a great sump site(it is about salt water but that doesn't matter).This site will have lots of info and different designs.Then I'll link you to my last sump I built(using cat litter buckets! and an aquarium).Check them out and then ask away.Besides being the effecient,natural way to filter water the largest advantage for the basic keeper(me /you) is the water level NEVER CHANGES in the tank and no har water lines!
http://www.melevsreef.com/]Melev's Reef[/url] possibly confusing but great info on this site.

http://www.aquariumforum.com/f37/simple-diy-sump-filter-42406.html
My last sump build.
Only because I have heard similiar comments I feel the need to say;
I went to public schools,a basic B-C student who never even took biology(all I needed was earth science so that's all I took).
I didn't like school and BELIEVE ME THEY DIDN'T LIKE ME!
I'm here to help!


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

Guy said his measurements for the sump is 72x18x17 high - is that a 125g tank?


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Yeah!If not exactly sure is close enough to 125.That would be huge!
Zach(zwanged) has a 75g on his 180.
In my photo gallery there is some pictures of my sumps(I run multiple tanks in series!)


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## Buerkletucson (Apr 8, 2014)

Little off topic....sorry...

I agree with the surface extraction comments 100%......

But, you don't need a sump to use one.......I have a small one on my 150 gallon that I use with my FX6 canister. 
Removing all the surface scum makes a huge difference on oxygen exchange and also helps a lot with light penetration.

btw - the one thing I really hate about conventional surface skimmers and sumps is the noise. My system is about as silent as you can get.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

There are several very efficient surface extractors for canisters.Going back to water level and hard water stains.And I was /will let F read before I tell him I can fit more mechanical filtration in my sumps then 5 of the fx 's.No matter what he chooses for filter(not the most important thing to me) he really needs to figure out HOW HE IS GOING TO DO PROPER WATERCHANGES.No filter replaces them.Even my largest sump run tanks still get 50% a week.
150 gallons F!a week!!!!!!
Whoever said bigger tanks are easier LIED or was really bad at math!
There are way more people on this site who favor and use canisters then sumps.
If you could install a float valve auto top off then you could run the canisters(1 on each skimmer) very effeciently!!!!!And have all the benefits of a sump (except huge space for medias,and added volume{but with 300g you really don't need extra volume}).


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

Thanks Guys as always you make my head hurt - but it's good info. Haven't read yet, just drain the tank and clean it up. It's starting to look nice. 

Off the top, I thought I could use one of those corners for WC by assembling a 3/4 Pvc pipe with a shutoff valve going to my house sump which would water my grass. I'll read the answer I'm sure, but if the water is draining down both corners don't I have to have something to catch water in both corners. You don't have to answer, I'm a night guy, just a question that comes to mind after reading your posts. Once I start reading, I'm sure I'll find the Answer. Thanks again I'll be in touch. Lol


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

coralbandit said:


> Surface extraction(water going through those teeth) is the best most natural way to move water there is.It is how all lakes stream rivers work.
> A sump can be as simple as a rubber maid tote with a return pump, or as eloborate and crazy as you can make it.
> You don't need to buy a sump or be super educated(it is water and gravity{nothing more}).Water will go out through those teeth and one of the holes in that chamber"overflow".The other hole is for return line of the pump.
> Any aquarium or rubbermaid tote that fits in stand will work.My sump for my 180g is in my basement(thanks to a nice 4" hole I drilled through bottom of stand and my livingroom floor!
> ...


Thanks for the info - and I really believe the sump is the way to go. I did some reading on your supplied links, (one of the pages wasn't available). I did look around the site, and your DIY sump build was cool. It was very inspiring for me, and gave me hope that maybe my public school education is not the problem. (I can almost hear the laughter) You're skills are legendary. This is good info, it just hasn't click for me yet how to apply it. Not your fault, I'm just slow like that. I setup a meeting with a local guy in my area that builds customize sump. Hopefully, he can fill in the blanks. 

Actually, as I was writing this something just click.. I'm at work - I'll get back to you shortly. Omw home.

Looks a little better:


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

That size tank the only way to filter it properly is with a sump. Personally though, I would want the wet/dry function as part of it. There is a reason wet/dry filters are the BEST filtration there is, bar none. Typical sump setups don't always incorporate that part. One basic sump could easily surpass the filtration capability of 3-4 canisters, even FX6s.

Beautiful tank! Too bad it may only have 2-3 occupants.


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## Buerkletucson (Apr 8, 2014)

jrman83 said:


> That size tank the only way to filter it properly is with a sump. Personally though, I would want the wet/dry function as part of it. *There is a reason wet/dry filters are the BEST filtration there is, bar none. * Typical sump setups don't always incorporate that part. *One basic sump could easily surpass the filtration capability of 3-4 canisters, even FX6s.
> *
> Beautiful tank! Too bad it may only have 2-3 occupants.


Boy, some pretty bold statements...and a lot of generalizations. 
Some quite laughable. 
"BEST filtration"...........sort of like saying Discus are the "best" fish there are. *r2

A lot of components involved in proper and complete filtration...
Some of which wet/dry filters excel at and some of which they are pretty dismal...........same goes for canister filters. 

I just hate to see people make such bolt statements and throw out numbers like you did, that have very little basis other than your own opinion......but are presented like they are fact. 

I won't go into details or debate it.....based on past discussions with you there is no sense in me spending (wasting) my time.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Buerkletucson said:


> Boy, some pretty bold statements...and a lot of generalizations.
> Some quite laughable.
> "BEST filtration"...........sort of like saying Discus are the "best" fish there are. *r2
> 
> ...


Well then, I guess it is all opinions...just like yours.

You notice I said wet/dry? No brand mentioned, just type. A wet/dry filter decomposes ammonia/nitrite at a much faster rate than in a closed container like a canister due to its exchange with the air. No other type of filter can claim that. And that fact is out there.

I didn't really see where I threw out numbers, unless you mean the 3-4 canister comparison I made? With a tank that size I could easily setup a sump type filter that could have a 2000gph return or even dual 1200s and that is even without having to worry too much about details. Matching inflow/outflow would be pretty easy. So this is just flow rate... If I wanted to get into the amount of media I can house in a large sump...I could go as high as 4-5 canisters even. Just depends on how crazy I would want to get with it. Your FX6 holds about 12 liters of media (just comparing to my Eheim 2080s), which is a large amount. Even with that amount it may put 1" in a 75g tank...just to provide a visual.

As far as your comment toward me, okay. Regardless, you will rarely see my personal opinion of someone, even you.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

*pc
I'm all for the sump however you do it!
There is NO CANISTER that can compare with a well built sump.The only thing "one" could think a canister would do better is chemical filteration and if you need it odds are you just don't change enough water.
Lets remember that oscars are the intended inhabitants of this set up.
I never liked cleaning my canisters for even a normal waste producing setup(PIA),but lets multiply that however many times for these messmakers!
In the long run you could run a canister off the sump,can't say that the otherway around though!
We are talking about simple freshwater fish,but if the question still exists whether a sump/wet dry is the best filter going,ASK A REEFER WHAT THEY USE!You won't find too many successful ones running a canister,or multiple ones!There is a VERY GOOD REASON.
I'm with Ben!


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

jrman83 said:


> That size tank the only way to filter it properly is with a sump. Personally though, I would want the wet/dry function as part of it. There is a reason wet/dry filters are the BEST filtration there is, bar none. Typical sump setups don't always incorporate that part. One basic sump could easily surpass the filtration capability of 3-4 canisters, even FX6s.
> 
> Beautiful tank! Too bad it may only have 2-3 occupants.


I'm going have more than 3-4 occupants - I'm thinking a school of Silver Dollars, it's going be a perfectly stocked exciting tank, with a great mix of compatible fish.. Before - I do anything, I'm going pass it through you guys first to make sure we're on the same page. 

Oscars are so cool - if anybody else walks by the tank Debo ignores them, he actually recognizes me, and does a dance for me when I'm in the room. Like having a underwater dog..lol 

BTW: I'm re-thinking my stocking choices, and might just go with the one Oscar just so I can have more variety.

PS: I also love hearing professionals debate. I respect and learn from all your opinions.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Fadil13 said:


> BTW: I'm re-thinking my stocking choices, and might just go with the one Oscar just so I can have more variety.
> 
> PS: I also love hearing professionals debate. I respect and learn from all your opinions.


No professional here,but I do have one of those opinion things?
Owning almost 1,000 gallons of aquaria and having ;freshwater,reef and fowlr set ups I have to say IMO(the opinion thing) the planted community tank is the biggest most lively bang for the buck.


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

Ok - I'm learning patience - I was getting frustrated not knowing how to ask questions, and doing a lot of researching still feeling like I'm not getting anywhere. Just like in the movies when it seems like all is lost, the calary shows up and saves the day.

Calvary being a cool 24 Air Force soldier name Dusty that's just getting into fish keeping, and loves to build aquarium stands out of old dressers or any piece of wood he can restore.. Very talented young man. He's actually worked as a house builder. Being a vet myself, we connected right away, and he's helping me get this party started. I wanted to shorten the stand and confirm it's strength. I did not want to play with 3000lbs of water in my cave. He rebuild my stand, added some studs to hold the left side of the house <g> - now we're just going stain it, and add some cool panel doors. 

I cleaned up the tank while it was down low, polish it up with some Novus acrylic polish, looking pretty sweet. Couldn't do much with the bottom tho - previous owner must have try gluing it to the plywood, or just the pressure of the weigh on the plywood left pieces of wood or glue, I'm not sure what it is, but can get it off with my acrylic scraper. I really do not feel like trying to mess with a hand sander. Jury still out on what to do about that, might just leave it. 

Dusty has 4 SW tanks, and also builds sumps, man, God do loves me, Dusty going to build me a nice 55 gal sump with overflow that will make my WCs almost automatic - he explained it to me, I also seen it on youtube, but you guys know I'm slow so there's no way I'll be able to explain it until I put my hands on it. These are exciting times.

I add a few pictures - here's one - looks better in real time.


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

*300g - At last Cycling*

We're getting there - Still do not know what to do with the background, but it's coming along - still need a little help.

We installed the sump with 2 shutoff valves one for overflow, and the other on the return pump. When we open the return valve the water rises above the pvc pipe which we installed so the overflow bulkhead chute will fill up. Without the pipe, it drains to fast. When above the pvc pipe, it's totally quiet. Problem is that it keeps rising, and I'm concerned about the water overflowing. I'm to scared to see if it's going to level off. If I tap it close, the overflow side drains to the top of the pvc pipe and form a whirlpool drain into the pipe causes a slurping sound that's way too noisy. 

Is there an attachment that can go on the top of the pvc pipe so that it doesn't create the whirlpool drain? Anybody else experiencing this problem - See pictures. Thanks for all your help.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Change your pipe configuration to a durso pipe.
R. Durso's 180 Gallon Reef Tank
These are usaully silent and can handle the flow.


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## vreugy (May 1, 2013)

Appreciate both of you for serving our country. Thank you for helping to keep us free. God bless both of you.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

vreugy said:


> Appreciate both of you for serving our country. Thank you for helping to keep us free. God bless both of you.


I'm not a Vet for clarity?


Aqueon » MegaFlow Accessory Kit for Overflow Aquariums | Products
Fidal go to this link and enlarge the picture of the drain tube.You will see where you can safely place one more hole in the drain pipe to encourage proper flow(the hole in the "T" just below the "street ell" about 1/4 inch on both sides)
My overflows are all on aqueon(formerly AGA) tanks and I have the "factory" durso pipe(the one I just linked called the mega overflow kit),but they really are the way to go and previous link was from the "inventor" (Richard Durso?)so I think he really gave almost all info you WILL need.His observations and corrections for certain issues are spot on.


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

Yes and Thank youx - it looks easy enough - I got to look again, but can I purchase all the parts from that link? No need to answer if I can, I'm gonna go back through it - just wanted to acknowledge I receive the excellent solution to my problem. 

BTW: Dustin and I have been working hard on this, but it's still my first time working with a sump. Lot of water makes it very scary. I'm worried about power outages. Even though we don't have many, I just need to know what to expect when the power goes off and on. We're thinking everything should stop at the overflow level. I'm going to do a test run to confirm. Any suggestions on what I should expect? Also I got 2 large sponge filters I was going use for backups. Think that's enough? 

Sorry for all the questions, but I need to get this right. Thanks again for all you do on our Forum.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

The plumbing parts should be available at any hardware store(besides the bulkhead which you already have).
I would definately cut the power and restart the sump a couple times to make sure you are all good.The tank should not go below overflow unless there is a leak.When the sump is off fill sump to within a couple inches of top.Then start the sump up and when it levels off use tape or marker to mark the "running water level".This is "max fill line" since if there was more and power failed the sump would overflow.This makes topping off safe and easy.
I keep my sponges in my sump so I don't have to see them.
You may want to remove the shutoff on the sump feed pipe.If you turn off sump you don't really need it and if you turn it off with sump running you will overflow tank!It may catch crap and clog or slow flow eventually.
IF THAT CANISTER IS DRAWING FROM THE TANK AND PUMPING TO THE SUMP THEN IT WILL SUCK ALL THE WATER OUT AND YOUR FLOOR WILL BE FLOODED!
The canister needs to be running on the sump completely or the tank completely you can't run it from sump to tank or tank to sump it will syphon and drain your tank!


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

coralbandit said:


> The plumbing parts should be available at any hardware store(besides the bulkhead which you already have).
> I would definately cut the power and restart the sump a couple times to make sure you are all good.The tank should not go below overflow unless there is a leak.When the sump is off fill sump to within a couple inches of top.Then start the sump up and when it levels off use tape or marker to mark the "running water level".This is "max fill line" since if there was more and power failed the sump would overflow.This makes topping off safe and easy.
> I keep my sponges in my sump so I don't have to see them.
> You may want to remove the shutoff on the sump feed pipe.If you turn off sump you don't really need it and if you turn it off with sump running you will overflow tank!It may catch crap and clog or slow flow eventually.
> ...


Thanks Tom, We did the test, and all is well - the canister is pulling its water from the overflow chute, so we're good there. Also install the stand pipe cap (forgot to take the picture) 

Concerning the sponge filters - If I put them in the sump - that would defeat my purpose of having a backup? My intentions was to have the sponges working in the event the sump's pump goes out?

Installed my lights this weekend - working on the drip system now..


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

The sponges could go in the tank upon pump failure.You got way more "error time" with large tanks than most people with there "desk top" set ups!If you don't go crazy stocking you will have a smooth ride with such a large tank.
Many always say(mistakenly) that larger tanks are easier.They are not as 50% of whatever is still 50%,BUT your are WAY SAFER with larger tanks.They don't change temp as quickly,they don't run out of O2 as quickly.They are safer(more stable),not easier.I don't think my tank and fish would suffer much if I shut my filter off 12 hours a day.Now what would happen to my BB colony in my filter?With so much substrate and surface area abounding I wonder,even think this could work out without problem.
You have days of a power failure and no pump if you are not heavily stocked without a problem IMO.
Out of all of my tanks(not counting salts) my 180 is the EASIEST(or just safest)as far as consistency.


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

vreugy said:


> Appreciate both of you for serving our country. Thank you for helping to keep us free. God bless both of you.


Dustin and and I expressed great honor to be serving, and to have served. Greatest experience of my life. Thank you much.


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## Fadil13 (Jan 15, 2014)

Also forgot to mention the valve on the intake balances the canister and sump flow, if left wide open to much air gets in the eheim lines. There's an attachment on the intake pipe that the eheim hose attaches to so 50% of the intake is being filter twice - I know over kill, but I got a good deal on the 2075. I probably will remove it soon - looking into a 100 or 125 cichlid tank next. I rather not think about that yet. 

I take a picture because I want you guys to see it just in care. Thanks.


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