# Live plants? New Tank



## *Angie* (Sep 29, 2010)

Hi! 

I'm preparing to set up a 33 gallon tank, and have been waffling between a freshwater (which I've had a successful one before, many years ago) and a saltwater, and I think I'm leaning more towards a freshwater at this point. Partially because it's what I'm familiar with, partially due to cost. 

Before, I only had a small 15 gallon tank with artificial plants. Now that I'll be using a larger tank, I'm tossing around the idea of using live plants instead. I'd love any tips, suggestions, etc. What do you use for substrate in the tank? Any easier-to-care-for plant suggestions? At what point in the setting up the tank process should the plants be added?

Thanks!


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## mk4gti (Jun 15, 2010)

I ordered most of my plants from aquariumplants.com, they have a whole section on easy to care for plants that you can look into.


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## AtRandom (Sep 11, 2010)

Hello Angie,
I was mid-way into my first post here and my browser failed, so this will be my brief (to your benefit) reply:
If you are still considering salt water, it appears that it _can_ be significantly cheaper than most people think, according to these two "do it yourself" video logs on youtube.com:
_Setting up hardware, substrate, and water_
youtube video title: "Nano Lagoon (1): Tank and Filter"
_Someone who followed this example and documented over some 70+ days of progress (I have not watched his series past the first day)_
youtube video title: "My 10 Gal Nano Reef (Day 1) + Other DIY Stuff"

*As for plants in freshwater*: I happen to live in the midst of many rivers/lakes, as well as a _spring fed_ river. I also happen to be a novice SCUBA diver. I frequently visit these various waters to search for interesting specimens that I believe will serve some purpose in my home aquaria. All of my specimens have been taken in water shallower than 10 feet, because sun-light will not penetrate the water beyond that (dependent on water turbidity).
Not only are these plants free, they also allow you to observe and study their natural parameters (substrate, water temperature, lighting requirement)!!!
Note: I take only a small handful of each type of plant and see if it will survive with my desired tank settings (more like limitations!), if they die, I can make sure not to add more, or else make accommodations. If it doesn't grow in my tank, I shouldn't harvest more of it to make up for the lack of plant - because it clearly doesn't want to thrive in my settings.Taking massive amounts of organizms, substrate, rock, driftwood, or generally disturbing the natural environment can have devastating effects on the ecosystem.
_*Caution:* If you attempt this method, be sure to take necessary precautions (such as weak bleach solution bath) to safeguard you and your tank from parasites!_
_*Caution:* Check with your local experts or government to observe a list of endangered, threatened, or invasive species. The first 2 are often illegal to touch/uproot, while the last is often illegal to "keep," or even throw back into the water._

* substrate*:
One of many informative sites (remove the space after the "h") - h ttp://home.infinet.net/teban/substrat.htm
I recommend that you set the entire aquarium (including plants) up first, before adding any water. After everything is how you like it, add water slowly with airline hosing with the help of gravity (syphon). This will keep everything in place and cut down on cloudiness of the tank.

If you don't care to read all of that, here's my own summary, _but it will lack accuracy, because I am only a month into these endeavors_.
For a _planted_ aquarium, i've read and now use (thanks to my ferrets), "Special Kitty" brand kitty litter from Walmart for the foundation of the substrate, then cover it with a thin layer mix of 1 portion naturally occuring sand (from the original habitat) to 3 or 4 portions of many-times-rinsed sement-use-sand (not ideal). The sand holds the kitty litter in place, but can increase pH (I believe). The natural sand is 100% inconclusively beneficial/harmful, I just do it out of experimentation. Skeptics of this sort of substrate fear that "aerobic" zones (?) will form in this substrate, which can kill your entire aquarium if disturbed. I may not be correct as I'm not looking at this information at the moment.

_Disclaimer_: I am mentally challenged in the chemistry department, and rely mainly on data from online searches for such info, so check out some websites with more authority.

Most plants require a neutral (7.0) to acidic (less than 7.0) pH due to a higher absorptive capacity of CO2. CO2, along with carbohydrates(?) and sunlight, comprise the energy-creating process of respiration. Some plants and algae do not require fertilizers, substrate, or much if any CO2.
Certain rocks have similar effect (limestone is alkaline [raises pH]), while, detritus (decaying organics), peat/sphagnum moss (dead moss), and driftwood/bogwood (also a decaying organic) release acids making water more basic (lower pH).
All of that pH stuff is dependent on water hardness. If you don't use a buffer (store bought), I believe you can "break" your hardness by overcompensation (saturation) with cheap alternatives than the fish store. This is where peat moss (sphagnum commonly used) comes into play. I suggest you read about that whole process somewhere else though, because I am only now experimenting with it.
I find this whole approach much more trial and error, but the richness of this learning and exploratory _process_ far outweighs the _commodity_ equivalents to me. I started with simply upgrading my neglected Oscar tank recently, and ended up now with buckets full of various creatures/water cultures, planted aquarium with 3 juvenile severums, (1) crayfish tank, "ghost" shrimp breeder tank, molly breeder tank, worm bin ("earthworms"), kiddie-pool-in-ground "pond", and a 20 gallon above-ground "pond" full of breeding gambusia (mosquito fish)!!!
I'm not even sure if anything posted here was warranted, and I apologize for wasting your time if this information was useless or incorrect. Otherwise I hope this was somewhat informative if not inspiring to experiment!


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## WhiteGloveAquatics (Sep 3, 2009)

^^^ 1000000% agreed, nice post.!

I never bought plants from aquariumplants.com however I wouldnt think twice about it, they are good folks when they arent super busy. they know their stuff and wont steer you wrong.

i do suggest using their ferts, I am trimming 2x a week with their ferts in the water.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

I highly recommend you add live plants during the initial setup. For marine tank macro algaes.

for a 10g I use 4-6 bunches of anacharis, 4-6 vals, 4 small potted plants and a single amazon sword.

For a substrate I usae 1" peat moss, 1" play sand, 1" pro choice select (or aquarium gravel). Each layer added, filled with water (to top o fthat layer) leveled out and th etank sides cleaned. then the next layer added.

I plant the plants after the last layer and before filling the tank with water (poured over a dish).

then let it set a week.

Add A single fish and wait a week with no food being added.

then stock up the tank and start very light feedings.

Just my .02


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## AtRandom (Sep 11, 2010)

WhiteDevil said:


> ^^^ 1000000% agreed, nice post.!
> 
> I never bought plants from aquariumplants.com however I wouldnt think twice about it, they are good folks when they arent super busy. they know their stuff and wont steer you wrong.
> 
> i do suggest using their ferts, I am trimming 2x a week with their ferts in the water.


It appears that none of my plants seem to be growing (fast enough to notice) over the last 3 weeks, accept for one of them (with the latest addition of CO2 micro bubbles). I also replaced my charcoal with sphagnum moss (to drop my 8.5+ pH) and the pH is now at 7.4. I've tested the waters in my locale, and they are all over 7.4 pH due to karst landscape (LOTS of limestone). For the life of me I cannot get this java-fern-like stuff to noticeably grow in any conditions (more/less light). Also my (floating in bucket under 2x fluorescent aqua/plant bulbs) Riccia doesn't seem to grow very quickly, maybe I should cultivate more patience?
I wonder if i don't have enough water movement, or my lighting isn't good enough. I'm using 1x fluorescent 24 inch "aquarium/plants" bulb from Walmart/hardware store that almost fits the length of the 29(?) gallon acrylic tank. I suppose i'd need better specs here to get any advice!

Also - any ideas on semi-permanent fertilizing? I know people talk about dosing/injecting macro/micro fertilizers, but I REALLY don't want to have to do "all of that", maybe I need more fish poops?


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