# DIY Double Aquarium Stand Advice



## TroyVSC (Aug 29, 2012)

Without going into a long story. My MTS has made me get a 80g tank. I do not have room for a 40g and 80g and I am not willing to tear down one for the other. I came up with this idea to build a double aquarium stand. Both are freshwater and both tanks have rims which mean all their wait will be on the edges. The final location for the stand is my garage and I will secure it to the wall thanks to advice given in this thread.

The stand will be located directly on the slab so total weight is not a problem. Have some time before I start construction. I built a 40b stand using the same general template and it came out great. I used Sketchup to design this stand.

I would like feedback to the total design, flaws and improvements that can be made.

Also I already have a Fluval 306 (plan to place on the open area next to the sump and want to make a DIY sump for the 80g Any advice or feedback on how to go about the filtration system is welcome. The sump is to try not to spend $300 on a couple canister filters or an FX5. That and it's highly customizable.

Thanks,
Troy


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## Tolak (Mar 10, 2013)

Assuming 2x4 construction by the looks of it, I'd go with a 2x6 or doubled up 2x4 for the long 4' span front & back under the 80. I have a pair of 20's over a 55 for one of my racks, 2x4 construction. The 55 has a center leg beneath it, the long 4' span with the pair of 20's has about a 1/4" dip going on towards the middle.


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## Botiadancer (Dec 30, 2013)

Seems kind of top heavy. Maybe trade places - 40 & 80. Or widen the base to give it more stability at ground level.

Agree with Tolak, use a 2x6 or double up. Or crossbracing.

Do you need the sump? Is this Fresh or Salt?


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## TroyVSC (Aug 29, 2012)

Botiadancer said:


> Seems kind of top heavy. Maybe trade places - 40 & 80. Or widen the base to give it more stability at ground level.
> 
> Agree with Tolak, use a 2x6 or double up. Or crossbracing.
> 
> Do you need the sump? Is this Fresh or Salt?


Both the 40 and 80 are for freshwater.

The sump is for not having to spend 300 on a couple of canister filters or an fx5 and it is a lot more customizable.

It will be top heavy but if you just had the tank on a stand it would be still the same amount of width and weight the only difference is the height of an extra foot. My current 40b stand is 36 high and easily could have made it 40" high.


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## TroyVSC (Aug 29, 2012)

Tolak said:


> Assuming 2x4 construction by the looks of it, I'd go with a 2x6 or doubled up 2x4 for the long 4' span front & back under the 80. I have a pair of 20's over a 55 for one of my racks, 2x4 construction. The 55 has a center leg beneath it, the long 4' span with the pair of 20's has about a 1/4" dip going on towards the middle.


Surprised you have a dip with just the two 20s. The thing that would be different is the weight is distributed by the fram e of the tank to the frame of the stand. Not aengineer but been told the most crtical points are the four corners where two 2x4s in each corner.

I can make more center braves to stop any sideways movement.


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## TroyVSC (Aug 29, 2012)

I also see the concern for the top heavyness. What if I lowered the top tank by 6" and the distance between the two by 1" and just ditching the sump idea. This would lower total stand by 7" bringing it just under 5'4".


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## Tolak (Mar 10, 2013)

Over time weight will cause deflection. A little extra lumber is cheap insurance. Yes, the corners are a more critical point, having 3 converging seams, along with triangles being very strong, but being less critical doesn't mean not critical at all.

As far as being top heavy, if you can secure it to the wall behind it this won't be an issue. I'd do this before ditching the sump, for a handful of hardware you get to keep the sump filtration idea. I built a 3'x10' platform above some 150 gallon tubs, ran the back 3 legs up to the ceiling joists & lag bolted them in, this may be another option depending on where you locate this stand.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

I'm not to worried about your design!My 120g sits on 2x4 and 2x6 corners with 3/4x4 for the rim.One tank will not deflect the stand like having two that apply weight to the middle.I have no center support on my 180g or 120's.Has anyone ever seen how the "premade " aquarium stands are built?They usually don't even have anything larger than 3/4x4 even for support! They scare me,but with 2x4 or 2x6 in the corners I wouldn't worry.I would use plywood on sides and back to help hold square(no wobbling).


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## Tolak (Mar 10, 2013)

Premade stands are why I build my own. It's probably why I overbuild as well, that & my tendency to climb them a bit while doing maintenance.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

The marineland stand that came with my 120g from NJ isn't even real wood! It is press board!They even only have 1 @ 3/4 x4 in each corner for support.It does scare me.My 120g stand doesn't even have rim in the back so I could have easy access for the mega overflows.Even the old tried and true metal angle iron stands never touch in the middle.I have several metal stands,and could probly put a quater($.25) inbetween the stand and tank!I'm all for overbuilding and with the "industry standard" as it is I feel I have over built,but I see how many have concern.Check out http://www.aquariumforum.com/f45/jc-goes-bigger-73130.html
He built his stand for his 300g and is an engineer!


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## Tolak (Mar 10, 2013)

Nice link, don't know how I missed that topic! I'm not an engineer, so I err on the side of caution, perhaps excessively at times. A 55 with a leaking AC200 on a melting pressed board stand is why I started building my own stands & racks long ago. I don't see how they can sell trash like that.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

I prefer to put my real "over building effort to the looks of the stand.They should/could be as impressive as the tank.
My 180;

These two are my 120g(with NO rim in the back at all)!


Still have to make canopy but not too shabby?


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## Botiadancer (Dec 30, 2013)

Living just up the road from the OP, my main concern vis-a-vis the top heavyness is that we are in EARTHQUAKE country. While there are no guarantees when the big one hits, why take a chance on one of the little ones doing damage. I envy those that can have an aquarium balanced on the end of a pin and not have to worry about it tipping over.

Mr. Bandit - Incredible stand! Love the decor on the top. (nice moldings on the house too!) Found only two faults though - I think the lamp in the filter area has some dust on it and the latch on canopyless aquarium would appear to be off by a millimeter. Or it could be the camera angle.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

silly Bandit!Never thought much about earthquakes here in NY!I would consider a way to attach the stand to the wall if possible.That is how most everything is anyways huh?Like hot water heaters and such?Not that I think it will hold it up if a big one hits(tank would probly be pretty far down the list of concerns?),but more on the attempt to control the "wobble" from even tremors or the like.
BD thanks for compliments,you are too nice(knock it off!)and I'm not cleaning that light!


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## jccaclimber2 (May 6, 2012)

The 2x4 stand its self is a well established design. It is discussed here:
Worried that your stand won't hold up?
I personally know the OP (EDIT: The OP in the thread linked here, not the OP to this thread) and he incorrectly applied a couple principles, but while his methodology is flawed his conclusions are still close enough to correct. Just be sure to make the top of the stand flat and level. If one of the perimeter 2x4s is high you will end up with an overly stressed spot on the stand. If you put a center brace on the back and securely and permanently attach even a thin wood skin to the sides the stand will be very very solid. I live in a relatively earthquake free (but bible dense) belt of the country so I don't have any first hand experience with that. I have seen people secure stands to the wall supports to prevent things from toppling over. Also, while most DIY stands simply sit under the tank, many (not all) commercial stands incorporate a well secured piece of trim around the bottom around 1/4" high to keep the tank from sliding off the side of the stand. I don't know if this would help any in an earthquake, but it's really handy when positioning an empty tank on the stand.

Since I see my thread was mentioned above, you should note that the plywood I have secured to the top/bottom of my stand is a night/day difference from just an open wood frame. I think an open wood frame is fine in your case, but want to be sure that is clear.

Remember with your lower tank (the 40b) that siphoning water out of tanks near the floor can be a real pain. Not a big deal if you pump out the water or have a hose to the basement/outside down a hill, but annoying if you are using buckets. Also make sure you have room for lights/hands/nets to catch fish/refilling water in the 40b and 20 long. I see that you left some space, but I want to be sure it is enough. I personally hate working in small spaces, but this will depend on how much time you spend there and how much it bugs you.

Filtration I like Poret foam. A 2" thick sheet across your sump (intake at one end, return at the other) would support a lot. I'm biased (related to the guy that sells it), but I really do like it and use it in all my tanks. While there are benefits to a sump (place to hide heaters, cost per media volume, etc) there are also some downsides. From a cost perspective vs a canister you now need a return pump, overflow box, tank, media, etc.

In my case the sump/filtration cost is over $500 (surprised when I just added that up), but I expect it to work better than a pair of FX5s and it will have a couple other perks as well.


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## TroyVSC (Aug 29, 2012)

jccaclimber2 said:


> The 2x4 stand its self is a well established design. It is discussed here:
> Worried that your stand won't hold up?
> I personally know the OP and he incorrectly applied a couple principles, but while his methodology is flawed his conclusions are still close enough to correct. Just be sure to make the top of the stand flat and level. If one of the perimeter 2x4s is high you will end up with an overly stressed spot on the stand. If you put a center brace on the back and securely and permanently attach even a thin wood skin to the sides the stand will be very very solid. I live in a relatively earthquake free (but bible dense) belt of the country so I don't have any first hand experience with that. I have seen people secure stands to the wall supports to prevent things from toppling over. Also, while most DIY stands simply sit under the tank, many (not all) commercial stands incorporate a well secured piece of trim around the bottom around 1/4" high to keep the tank from sliding off the side of the stand. I don't know if this would help any in an earthquake, but it's really handy when positioning an empty tank on the stand.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your well thought out and detailed reply. Couple of observations when I read through your reply.

Just curious, how do you know me? I was carefull on my first diy stand for my 40b that perimeter was level and smooth all the way around hopefully causing no stress points. That stand also was covered on three sides (back is open). I also had trim on the same three sides top and bottom more for decoration but if they serve a purpose great.In this stand I plan on covering the sides, part of the front (either side of the 40 and covering the sump), and I might place a back with cutouts all using 1/2 plywood. More sturdier than the first build with thin paneling. This would help hold everything together. The design above is to show the conctruction side of things.

I do water changes weekly I remove about 10 gallons and hopefully won't have to much trouble with the siphon. The return water is by aqueon water changer hooked up to a faucet. No bucket brigade here. Wow the sump stuff added up quick for . I will give more though about which filtration to use. My 40b would have to low mainentance but considering I have a glass lid currently on top and rarely have to move it to do stuff in the tank I hope the clearance I gave will give me enough room. The lights are Finnex and only adda around 3 height to top of tank. I could also hang them from the perimeter of the bottom part holding up the 80.

As far as sump construction, I have the 20long, the cheapest part of the build and will have to see the costs of all the other stuff going into it but would likely do as much diy stuff to it as possible.

I am realistic when it comes to costs. I went cheap on the 40b with just about everything for a really good deal or diy except for the lights and heater which were bought at normal prices and even with a diy stand the whole project ran aroun $450. I can only imagine what total costs of the bigger tank is going to be, although I have the tank so its a start.

Thanks all others for the advice of securing to the wall as that will be a must even just for making my mind at ease. Btw the tanks are going to be in the garage so not as worried about damaging stuff but would hate to lose the investment by it tipping over.


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## jccaclimber2 (May 6, 2012)

TroyVSC said:


> Thanks for your well thought out and detailed reply. Couple of observations when I read through your reply.
> 
> Just curious, how do you know me?
> <snip>


Sorry for being unclear. I know the OP in the thread I linked to, not you. I'll edit my other post to be more clear. I'm glad to know you have most of the the finer details already in order with the stand. Some people local to me have been using the basic 2x4 stand and have been overlooking those details, only to go back and correct them after the initial build.


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