# Cycling question



## fin-nipper86 (Oct 5, 2012)

well it seems that my tank is not done cycling. A couple weeks ago the water became extremely cloudy so I assumed that was the ammonia spike. I purchased some live bacteria and did 2-3 15% water changes everyday. After a week the water became crystal clear, all the fish survived and were much more active. Fast forward, yesterday, I noticed my rainbow shark is swimming like he has a twitch of some sort so I tested the water again. Basically the ammonia is still high as if my tank is not cycling at all. Nitrites and nitrates read zero. I'm very confused. when I do water changes, I'm using tap water to fill the tank then treat it with water conditioner. Is this wrong? Is the chlorine killing all the beneficial bacteria? Should I treat the water before pouring it into the tank? was the live bacteria a bad idea?? Help! 

Oh and the rest of the fish are just fine.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

it's best(more efficient) to treat water before adding to tank(along with trying to acclimate it to temp.)If you treat(for chlorine) after adding water many products reccomend treating for entire tank volume(hence efficient).Any chlorine is not helping cycle at all,but can't be sure if it is killing your fish.If your ammonia is high you need to change more than 15% as the amount you change is the amount you reduce the ammonia(15% wc =15% reduction in ammonia/50% wc = cutting your ammonia in half). Often when ammonia is high you will need to change more than 50% , this can be done during the same day a couple hours apart.Acclimating temp of wc becomes more important when you change large volumes as to not stress fish and cause desease.


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## fin-nipper86 (Oct 5, 2012)

ok so I'll treat the water before I add it and ill do two 25% water changes everyday. What about the live bacteria though? Is it helpful?


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

I've never used any so can't really say if it works/is necessary/good or bad.I can say as many here will agree; most pet stores/LFS will sell($) you anything! Others here have used similiar so maybe one will chime in.


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## fin-nipper86 (Oct 5, 2012)

I'll start with the bigger water changes. Thank you for your help! Much appreciated.


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## Dave Waits (Oct 12, 2012)

I'd hit it with some Amquel. I normally don't like much in the way of Chemicals but, this stuff works.


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## AFishNamedCP (Oct 7, 2012)

fin-nipper86 said:


> ok so I'll treat the water before I add it and ill do two 25% water changes everyday. What about the live bacteria though? Is it helpful?


Personally, I am a huge fan of the live bacteria. My cycle was stucked and after 4 days of adding the live bacteria , the ammonia was cycling. But I let the water alone. I didn't change water or add anything to the water after adding the bacteria. But I think the bacteria is really of limited use. Once per cycling. I don't see the need to add after a cycle has been established...


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## fin-nipper86 (Oct 5, 2012)

I've been adding it for about 6 days now and nothing is happening. However, I have a feeling it's because I'm not treating the water before pouring it into the tank.


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## AFishNamedCP (Oct 7, 2012)

Yeah adding them to conditioned (non-chlorinated) water is best bet. The success of bacteria may be more about the conditions and less about using them or not. But the way I look at is even if the conditions are right for life, there still needs to be the seed for life to begin. Sorry about getting too philosophical. Best of luck. Eventually , bacteria will start doing their work to bring the ammonia down


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## Gizmo (Dec 6, 2010)

When did you add the fish, when did you test for ammonia, and when did you add the bacteria supplement? In my experience, a fishless cycle with an artificial source of ammonia and bacteria supplements lasts about 10 days. I'll add the ammonia source, test daily until I register ammonia, add bacteria, and test until ammonia and nitrite are back down to zero.

Your fish might have suffered stress and/or burns from toxic levels of ammonia and water changes will help, as stated. IMO, you should be testing before or after each water change, then you can keep an eye on your levels. You do want to lower the ammonia concentration, however you do not want to eliminate it or you will stall your cycle.

And as you stated, adding chlorinated water to your tank and then dechlorinating it afterwards was probably zapping your biological filter. I always add dechlor to the bucket as I'm filling it.

Good luck!


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

I wouldn't use Amquel. Chemicals aren't really needed to treat what a water change can take care of.

Everyone has a different opinion on when to treat your incoming water. I have never treated a bucket. I have always added to my tank and then added my new water. Doing it that way the conditioner reacts to the water as it enters your tank. Hard to say, but doubt very seriously if adding a mere 15% new water without first conditioning it has had any affect on what you're seeing.

A tank with fish can take up to 8wks to fully cycle. Ammonia usually takes at least a week depending on fish load to show up on a test. Nitrites can take another 10 days after that and can take 2-3 times that to disappear.

Personally, I think you need to get some testing equipment. It will dispell the "mystery" and TELL YOU what your tank is doing.


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## fin-nipper86 (Oct 5, 2012)

I added the fish a month ago and I've been doing everything by the book except the conditioning. Now i wish i did the fishless cycle sigh. 

Also, I test the water everyday but not right after I change the water. I'll do that instead and see how it goes. Thanks guys.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

What have your ammonia readings been showing?


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## fin-nipper86 (Oct 5, 2012)

It jumped to 8.0.. Yes high I know and I'm doing water changes and all that good stuff. Honestly, I'm surprised my fish are still alive. Still, it's very frustrating because I don't want to lose any of them


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## fin-nipper86 (Oct 5, 2012)

I forgot to mention that one of my hatchet fish died and I could not find him for an entire day. I don't know if that's also what's causing the high reading


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## FishFlow (Sep 13, 2011)

A dead fish in a small tank will cause ammonia to spike. Find and remove fish. If truely 8 ammonia, best be doing a huge 50% wc until it drops. 

What are your NO2 and NO3 readings?


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## fin-nipper86 (Oct 5, 2012)

I found him a day later and removed him immediately. NO2 is 0ppm and NO3 is also 0ppm 

I just did a 25% water change and treated the water before filling the tank. I'll do another 25% in an hour


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

You should do that everyday until you get the level to 1ppm or lower.


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## fin-nipper86 (Oct 5, 2012)

Is a 50% water change too drastic for my size tank? 46 gallons..


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

50% is acceptable and recommened to lower extreme ammonia(it's also simple math{1/2 water out 1/2 ammonia out}).Try to get water(new) temp as close to tank temp as you can to not stress fish even more.


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## fin-nipper86 (Oct 5, 2012)

ok i'll do 50% then, thank you


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