# Dirted Tank



## Mr. Wood (Aug 3, 2013)

Hello everyone, I just started a a third tank the other day with the hopes if it being my first dirted tank. I layed out 2 inches of organic miracle grow and capped it with some river pebbles. My predicament comes now where I (due to lack of funds) I am stuck to one filter, which is currently supporting a established tank. The est. tanks' fish along with plants will be making the move to the dirted. My plan was to gradually remove est. tanks water to dirted via its pwc's till I the dieted has been adequately filled allowing the fish plants and filter to move with minimal shock.. Is this feasible or am I overlooking any possible problems...? Any advice is appreciated... 

Ps. The dirted tanks has been filled (and refilled) to where the water shows clear..


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

The established tanks water contains very little beneficial bacteria.You would probly be best just moving filter and fish to new tank with the clean (hopefully dechlorinated water).It's just like doing a 100% waterchange which I have pulled off without issue many,many times.


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## Mr. Wood (Aug 3, 2013)

I get you, so I really shouldn't stress the water as far as beneficial bacteria goes.. 
And yea CB I would definitely Prime the heck out of it lol..
Should I try acclimating the fish (as if I they were "new")? 
If so, do ziplocks work as I understand a special "breathable" bag is what the stores use..


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## Gizmo (Dec 6, 2010)

Kordon breather bags only allow the respiration of O2 & CO2 from the water in the bag to the air. I'm not sure they accomplish the same thing water-to-water.

Either way, acclimation should be done using the drip method as detailed in the sticky either in this forum or the New to Aquariums forum. It will help prevent not only temperature shock (which the bag float method mitigates) but also osmotic/pH shock caused by an imbalance in water parameters other than temperature.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

I would (do ) always drip acclimate all my fish.That being said if the new tank is set up with the same water you have been using in existing tank they should probly be fine just switching over,but I would still drip.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Of course I believe in drip method, but going from your water to your water should be minimal differences. Like was said, closer to a 100% w/c. Can't go wrong I guess doing It.


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## Mr. Wood (Aug 3, 2013)

Thanks for all the advice.. The move has been successful so far (fingers crossed). I used the drip method simply for peace of mind and partly because the temperature differed slightly.. 
If I could just expand this thread and further the topic and use it to pick your brains a bit more...
I hear that a newly established dirted tank is susceptible to algae bloom and ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spikes.... Are there any ways to prevent/minimize this from happening?? Also are there any other issues/problems I might be overlooking that have yet to arise??
I'm sorry for the overdose of questions but given that you guys are fimiliar with the procedure I used (and any one else who might view this thread) I figured it would be best to keep it all together.. Once again I GREATLY appreciate your help and advice..


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## Gizmo (Dec 6, 2010)

Daily water changes to keep the nitrates and phosphates at manageable levels are what I would suggest. The algae is a secondary problem caused by the overabundance/imbalance of nutrients in the water column.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

The water will have to be checked regularly just to be sure you are good. I would focus on ammonia or nitrites and conduct a water change when needed. One big water change may correct any issues initially created when going to dirt - may not. Since you used MG, I would guess you may need a few more. Of course, weekly water change of 35% or higher would be recommended and that level should increase as you push your stocking level.

For algae control, simple. Control your light, control the algae. Start with 6 hrs of lighting time. If your plants are doing okay, keep it that way until any cycling issues you may be seeing are finished. Once to that pont increase in 1hr increments and see how things react. Wait at least two weeks in between increases. If you start to see any algae, go back to the previous time setting. From there, it is just controlling nutrient levels so that they don't get out of control. Regular water changes usually take care of that. Remember that any healthy tank will have algae and it doesn't always mean something is wrong. Watch for BBA and act on it early. Once it covers everything it can be a pain to get rid of.


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## Mr. Wood (Aug 3, 2013)

So my wife, who "reminded" me that we couldn't get a filter (which in turn caused me to start this thread) comes home to surprise me with........... A Filter!!!!!! Oh the Gods of Humor are hard at work..
N e who... I wanna THANK EVERYONE who chipped in and helped out with their advice.. The tank really shows promise. I love the fact that it really has opened the door to an almost unrestricted list of planting options.... I'll keep a close eye on the Parameters and growth.. Again thank you all..


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