# First Tank Build



## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

Hey All
So I'm a novice in this hobby,any tips,advice and how to's are very welcome,thanks in advance.I bought a Fluval 29 tall and started a build last week.I had my substrate and gravel in,then filled with water.That evening I noticed a crack about a centimeter long coming out from one of the corners*r2,well not really.So I emptied the tank and exchanged it for another one.Bit of a soggy start,but as my dad would have said"Hard Cheese".
I decided to place the second tank in the living room and bought the
stand that went with the tank.I separated the gravel and substrate as best I
could from my first attempt and placed them aside.When I got the new tank
I got 4kg of Fluval Stratum substrate and started the bottom of the tank with that,then I added 8kg of Flourite substrate,a Seachem product.I rinsed both substrates in a colander before adding to the tank.I then rinsed my gravel and added that on top of the substrate,then finally got the tank filled.
I immediately added water conditioner and a little fish food to start my tank cycle.That was yesterday,I allowed the the sediment to settle for 24 hours and then I installed the pump(Fluval C-3)today,cycled for an hour before
adding my good bacteria.I have taken a few pics and will post them later.
Thanks for reading.
Cheers:fish10:


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

It certainly sounds like you are off to good start!
We have a fishless cycle thread here that may(probly) will get your tank cycled quicker than food.
http://www.aquariumforum.com/f66/fishless-cycle-15036.html
Ben(jrmain) updated this post so you really only need to read first post,but here is the jist of it;
Add ammonia(make sure it is pure ammonia no additives{surfactants})to get your tank up to 4ppm.Measure carefully as how much this takes is all you need to know from there out.Add that amount everyday until nitrItes show(don't bother testing for ammonia{waste of time and test} and you don't need to test for nitrItes till around day 5.
Once you detect nitrites(Oh yea most here use API liquid master kit as test strips can be innaccurate),then you dose 1/2 the original amount of ammonia every 4 days.When both ammonia and nitrIte go to 0 in 24 hours you are ready to completely stock your tank(you heard me FULL STOCKING ALL AT ONCE!)Make sure before you bring fish home you do a LARGE waterchange(like 80% or more) to get nitrAtes to a reasonable level(10-20ppm).
Ask away or just use search tool as there have been a million fishless cycle questions.Everyone here is always happy to help and many have first hand experience.If you can spare a couple of bucks I personally feel that 2 particular bottled bacterias work well with this process(TSS{Tetra Safe Start/or DrTims One and Only)}.Both of these products have very good reviews.I can't say the same for other brands so be picky!
WELCOME!


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

Hey All
I got lucky and found some pure ammonia 10% in water,no addiditives,I double checked 
with the pharmacist,figured he had more chemistry under his belt than I ever will,he said it would suit my purpose.I dosed my tank~4-5 ppm,I'm using an API master test
kit as suggested by Coralbandit,thanks by the way.I'm using Fluval biological enhancer,it came with the Aquarium.I will check for the brands of good bio Coralbandit 
suggested,thanks again.I'm not sure what is available in Canada.I kept a record of the volume of ammonia I used to get to the required dose and will continue to dose ~4ppm daily until nitrites are detected.The Fluval bio enhancer has a 3 day application-2 more days left.The bio-enhancer is intended to be used with the immediate introduction of fish to the tank.I noticed several of the LFS folks where trying to encourage me to start with fish right away.IMHO they are catering to the impatience of new aquarists.I will stick to the fishless cycle nonetheless.I'm also trying to increase the tank temp so the
beneficial bacteria will develop faster.my current temp is 25c or 77f.I'm having touble
increasing temp with my heater.I have post a separate thread on that issue.please keep the tips and suggestions coming.
Cheers


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Good deal on finding the ammonia!
I think all the bio "boosters" are labled to be used with fish for "the less patient" people,but work well with any source of ammonia(ammonia be the safest source).
I would think you are all good at 77 degrees but want to say I was not thrilled with the fluval heater I bought because you guys in CA don't have UL testing on some products and the instructions said to keep above waterline as you have installed it.Everyone here said your heater is completely submersible.I returned my fluval and ONLY use aqueon PRO heaters.They are plastic encased aluminum so nearly indestructable and have a lifetime warranty.They ,along with all hard goods are way cheaper online compared to in stores.
Kensfish and amazon are good places to shop.
Aqueon Pro Heaters


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

coralbandit said:


> Good deal on finding the ammonia!
> I think all the bio "boosters" are labled to be used with fish for "the less patient" people,but work well with any source of ammonia(ammonia be the safest source).
> I would think you are all good at 77 degrees but want to say I was not thrilled with the fluval heater I bought because you guys in CA don't have UL testing on some products and the instructions said to keep above waterline as you have installed it.Everyone here said your heater is completely submersible.I returned my fluval and ONLY use aqueon PRO heaters.They are plastic encased aluminum so nearly indestructable and have a lifetime warranty.They ,along with all hard goods are way cheaper online compared to in stores.
> Kensfish and amazon are good places to shop.
> Aqueon Pro Heaters


Hi Coralbandit
Thanks for the response.I'll probably exchange the E-100
at the LFS I bought it from and go with that for the time being.Although I suspect that I will have further problems with it.That said,I was looking at the 100 watt Aqueon Pros on Amazon.My tank is 29 g,call it 30g,I think the 100 watt is rated for 30g.Do you think I should buy 2 Aqueon Pro 100 watt
heaters? They could share the heat load,not to mention,create a redundancy measure.
Cheers


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

although all heaters say "x" watts for "x" gallons here is the real deal(at least for the aqueon pros).According to the instruction manual that comes with the aqueon pro,on the last page is "aqueon heater guidelines" that say;It is the volume of water combined with the increase in temp ABOVE ROOM TEMPERATURE that need to really be considered.
They say;for a 30g a 100w will raise temp 10 degrees F above room temp,but if you should need to raise it 15 degrees then a 150w is what you want.
I by no means do I understand if I am costing myself more money in electricity or even possibly saving money by heating faster and easier,BUT I only buy 200and 250 when possible.That being said I do use the 50w in my fluval specV,BUT they were only $5 cheaper!I needed them to fit into such a small tank.All my others are 200/250(Igot like 20 heaters going!).
Many use 2 heaters as a safe gaurd and they usaully also have some kind of controller(seperate from heater) in case when they fail they get stuck in the on position instead of not working at all!


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

coralbandit said:


> although all heaters say "x" watts for "x" gallons here is the real deal(at least for the aqueon pros).According to the instruction manual that comes with the aqueon pro,on the last page is "aqueon heater guidelines" that say;It is the volume of water combined with the increase in temp ABOVE ROOM TEMPERATURE that need to really be considered.
> They say;for a 30g a 100w will raise temp 10 degrees F above room temp,but if you should need to raise it 15 degrees then a 150w is what you want.
> I by no means do I understand if I am costing myself more money in electricity or even possibly saving money by heating faster and easier,BUT I only buy 200and 250 when possible.That being said I do use the 50w in my fluval specV,BUT they were only $5 cheaper!I needed them to fit into such a small tank.All my others are 200/250(Igot like 20 heaters going!).
> Many use 2 heaters as a safe gaurd and they usaully also have some kind of controller(seperate from heater) in case when they fail they get stuck in the on position instead of not working at all!


Hi Coralbandit
I live in Canada,so on a winter's morning,the living room where the aquarium is,can go down to the lower 60s Fahrenheit.I'm considering the Aqueon 250s,price isn't much different anyway.I figure if I'm ordering online,I might as well fill the basket and beat the shipping as best I can.I'm also looking for a digital thermometer,an air pump and a CO2 dispenser for the plants going in the tank.There are a lot of products out there and I'm at a loss at which would be best.You mentioned a controller
for the tank heaters,if you could post some links to those using them,I would appreciate it.Thanks again for posting,you are really helping me focus
on the tasks at hand.
Cheers:fish10:


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

*Day-8-Fishless Cycle*

Hi All
Right,day 8 of the fishless cycle,the first 3 days of which I was initially adding fish food,to produce ammonia.I added~4.0ppm of pure
ammonia as of day 4 and continued the same daily dose until day 6.On day 
6 I began reading levels of 8.0ppm of ammonia,I realized the food I added
for the first 3 days was and is,contributing to current ammonia levels.So,as of day 6,I stopped dosing with ammonia.Day 8:Ammonia level~8.0ppm-
Nitrite level~0.25ppm-Nitrate level~3.0ppm.So far,so good.I'm not sure how much more ammonia will be produced and I was wondering if I should
do a water change when my nitrates climb up to ~8.0ppm and keep cycling?
Or should I wait for the ammonia and nitrites hit 0.0 and keep following
the sticky?
Cheers:fish10:


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

*Day-12-Fishless Cycle*

Hi All
So,as of day 6,I stopped dosing with ammonia.Day-12
Ammonia~5-6.0ppm-Nitrites~4.0ppm-Nitrates~6.0ppm.I'm continuing
to test every 24 hours and am waiting for the ammonia and nitrite levels
to fall to zero.Then I will dose ammonia 2.0ppm every 4 days,until tank
is cycled.Just keep cycling,just keep cycling,just keep cycling.........
Cheers:fish10:


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

*Day-20-Fishless Cycle*

Hey All,
I am now dosing ammonia~2.0ppm every 4 days.
ph~6.4
ammonia~2.0ppm
nitrites~3.0ppm
nitrates~13.0ppm
Before I dosed the ammonia this morning,ammonia readings were 0.0ppm,but the nitrites are still~3.0.This my first attempt at this and was wondering it was possible for the bacteria that converts ammonia into nitrites to continue thriving,while the bacteria that converts nitrites into nitrates
possibly dies?Or is it an all or nothing regarding both bacterias?I am truly hoping that it's a matter of patience,which is no problem.
Cheers:fish10:


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

They are seperate bacterias.Usually the second bacteria that convert nitrIte to nitrAtes take just a little longer to develope than the first bacteria.
I'm thinking you're all good and keep doind it how you are every 4 days 2ppm till both are 0 and nitrates are high.


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

*Nearing End of Cycle*

Hey All,
The end is in sight,yesterday,I tested ammonia~0.0 and nitrites~0.0,then I dosed another 2.0ppm ammonia.I realize that zero ammonia and nitrites within a 24 hour means a cycled tank,immediately followed by a massive water change.That said,I may not be able to stock my tank right away,my question now being:What would be the appropriate dose of ammonia required to perpetuate the good bacterias,until I'm ready to stock?
Cheers:fish10:


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Just stick with 2 ppm every 4 days.Before you stock do a massive waterchange.If it is going to be an extended time before you stock I see no harm in a waterchange to keep nitrates under 180ppm.


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

*Cycle Complete*

Hey All,
Fishless cycle is complete,I did an 85% water change and
dosed ammonia 2.0ppm to keep the bacteria going,thanks for that tip CoralBandit.This morning I tested all parameters I could;
ph7.6
ammonia~0.0ppm
nitrites~0.0ppm
nitrates~10ppm
I'll do another 50% water change when I plant,I figure at this point water
changes can only help.I do have a small problem in that my substrate has 
clouded up during the initial filling and after my last really large water change.I'm using a Fluval C-3 filter and the red mechanical filter tab is sticking up,meaning it wants me to change the mechanical filter.At this point,I'm hesitant to do so because I don't want to lose my beneficial bacteria.
The filter also has a micro-screen,which I rinsed in aquarium water,it's fine,it also
has bio-media and charcoal components.Should I change the mechanical filter and leave the old mechanical filter in the aquarium,while the bacteria seeds in the new filterr should I leave it alone for now?The filter system is running quietly at present.
Cheers:fish10:


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

*Tank Fully Planted*

Hey All,
I got the tank fully planted this afternoon.First I did a 50% water change
and before I dumped the water,I dismantled the C-3 filter and rinsed all
components.Then I planted and slowly re-filled.Now,3 hours later,the water is clearing up nicely and the red tab indicator,for the mechanical 
filter,is not showing at all..My daughter,who wants a fish for her 7th birthday,was thrilled when she saw all the plants and a Buddha like
temple.She plays Temple Run on my wife's phone,so the temple,complete
with doorways and windows,was her idea.I think it will serve as a good cave 
for some of the fish,which will begin arriving soon.
Cheers:fish10:


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

*Re: First Tank Build-Pics*

Hey All,
I finally got some pics,here's a couple the day after the plants went in the tank.I noticed a fair amount of sediment on the anubias and
have been "dusting "since
Plants;
Anubias
Sumbeam
Java Fern
Christmas Tree type(even lfs guy wasn't sure)
That's all so far,I'm keeping it simple for now.
Cheers:fish10:


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

*Pink Neon Barbs*

Hey All.
Well,my daughter finally got some fish and she's quite pleased.We introduced 4 Pink Neon Barbs to the tank,they seem to have acclimated to the tank quite well,it's been several days since they were introduced.I managed to get the airstone under the substrate,I still don't like where the hose is,but that's fixable.The Barbs are eating voraciously
and are really active.They are also nibbling on the sunbeam plants and in general are enjoying the plants as hiding places.
cheers:fish10:


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## LittleFishJoe (Jun 29, 2014)

That's a good lookin aquarium! Got that jungle/Indiana Jones temple of doom feel.


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## nova777 (Jul 6, 2014)

LittleFishJoe said:


> That's a good lookin aquarium! Got that jungle/Indiana Jones temple of doom feel.


Thanks LittleFishJoe,
I'm seeing some new growth on the plants
that resemble Christmas trees(still not sure what they are called)The Neon Barbs really like the Sunbeam plants,they had a few uprooted this morning.The Barbs were actually nibbling on the roots.LOL.I re-planted
as soon as I realized.I'm seeing some browning on the Sunbeams and a little bit on the Java Ferns,I'm not surprized though,I imagine the plants will take awhile to acclimate.I got a small co2 kit I'm gonna install tomorrow
and I'll see how that goes.Thanks for looking.
Cheers:fish10:


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## AJerman (Aug 12, 2014)

Looks great! Feels good when you finally get to put some fish in! I'm still working on stocking mine still.


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## SueD (Aug 4, 2012)

Just check the java fern and anubias plants and make sure that the rhizome is above the gravel. From your pictures it looks like they may be below. The rhizome may rot if buried. These plants do a little better if tied to driftwood or rocks, rather than planted, but if planted, only the long roots should be below the substrate.


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