# best bang for your buck UV sterilizer



## nh murph (Mar 21, 2014)

WeLl I recently restarted my 35 hex as my first planted tank. I am currently running a hob power filter, a 240gph power head and an Aquatic Life 24" T5 fixture with 4 vho bulbs running 9 hours a day. I am going to upgrade the filter to a 2215, and would like to add a UV sterilizer. I've been looking at a bunch of UV sterilizers online and reading the generally mixed reviews on all of them. They all seem that have their pros and con's. What would you all consider to be the best bang for my buck? Factoring in things like bulb replacement costs and availability, customer service, etc. There just seems to be a lot of options and varying opinions on all of them.


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## rtmaston (Jul 14, 2012)

so many out there.get one for the size of your tank.the one I have has a pump in side the tank and I run it on low.the longer the water stays in the light the better it kills the bad stuff.it a great investment.do you want a inline or a hang on back or in tank?i would check the price on the bulb on which every one you buy.thay range up to $35 or more.the bulb need to be change about once a year.i change mine once a year.i have had mine sense 1996 and put a lot of bulbs in.i have to take mine all apart to put the bulb in.the new ones are easy.thay don't make that one I have no more.it was a hang on back which I wanted.the bulb for that one at my pet store where I got it was $29.i found the same bulb at a alanta light bulb for $606 so I bought 4 of them and hope to buy more.i can still get some parts for it from the peoples of made it and the bulb from them was $25.


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## nh murph (Mar 21, 2014)

I am planning on doing an inline unit, as the hex tank limits how many objects I can dangle off the back without turning the corner and having stuff hanging off the sides. Eventually, I'll be adding pressurized co2 as well to the return hose. Would I be better off having the inline co2 diffuser after the uv sterilizer than having it upstream of the uv? The 2 sterilizers that I have been leaning towards are the Aqua UV 8 watt with the wiper and the Coralife turbo twist 9 watt. The Aqua UV is a bit more spendy, but from what I can tell, it seems to be a better unit. At marine depot, they have both bulbs, and the Aqua UV is $43 and the turbo twist is $30 per bulb. From what I have read, they both seem that they would work fine, but I'm having trouble deciding which to pull the trigger on.


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## Buerkletucson (Apr 8, 2014)

Get the Coralife Turbo-twist............*w3

They are a tad more expensive but well worth it IMHO. 
They offer more contact time between the water and UV due to the circular "twist" of the water flow pattern around the tube. 

They are built solid and hold up very well......not cheap stuff. 

I've been running a Turbo-Twist 6x 18W in my 150 gallon for well over a year and love the results!
Watch your flow rates though....


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## nh murph (Mar 21, 2014)

Thanks for the info Brian. Recommended flow rate for the turbo twist 9 watt says 100-200gph, and the 2215 filter is claiming 164gph, so it seems to me that they should work pretty well together.


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## Buerkletucson (Apr 8, 2014)

nh murph said:


> Thanks for the info Brian. Recommended flow rate for the turbo twist 9 watt says 100-200gph, and the 2215 filter is claiming 164gph, so it seems to me that they should work pretty well together.


No problem...

Flow rates sort of depend on what your trying to do with he UV sterilizer.
You could split the output of the filter to bypass some water..........to cut the flow rate through the UV if needed. 

.........Parasites.... Algae.......Bacteria
9W......55 gph.....121 gph......253 gph
18W...110 gph.....240 gph......500 gph
36W...290 gph.....680 gph.....1,550 gph


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## nh murph (Mar 21, 2014)

I see what you're saying. So, if I were to put a tee in my return line for the UV, I would obviously be reducing the flow to the sterilizer. Even though I would be flowing less of the water through it, the water that does go through it would be much more thouroughly treated, resulting in treating the tank better as a whole. I assume that reducing the flow rate to the suggested flow for parasites would not negitavely impact the performance on algea and bacteria, correct? For that matter, If I were to just go with the 18w turbo twist, I could probably have a pretty happy result with the 164gpm of the 2215 going straight through it? If I go overboard with the UV sterilizer is it possible to starve my pleco and twig cat? They need SOME algea...


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## rtmaston (Jul 14, 2012)

that is a good one.you can see a big difference using a uv sterilizer.i like using a hang on back because its not tide to anything if the filter goes out your uv is still working.i don't care for the in tank because it take up space but the in line is ok.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

The slower the flow the "more powerful " the dose.Then you need to consider your tank volume and whether a larger unit(wattage) is needed to get tank through filter "x" times an hour/day....
Clearly if you went with the flow for a parasite(being the slowest) it would be enough to deal with algae and bacteria also.It is the strength and flow that make the difference between UV "sterilising" and UV "treatment".There is a difference.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Personally, if you didn't have a green tank problem I wouldn't waste the time with them. I had and sometimes still had a parasite issue and got the biggest Coralife model and it did nothing to improve it. It also heated my water up 4-5 degrees and the added temp over a long period during the Summer caused the loss of a few plants.

The Coralife models seem well built but as with ALL Coralife bulbs of any type, they suck. I had a bulb once that only lasted for 6mos and they definitely are not cheap.

I would just think about what you expect to gain. I wouldn't recommend one unless you have issues that a UV could/should possibly correct.


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## nh murph (Mar 21, 2014)

U=jrman83;493953]Personally, if you didn't have a green tank problem I wouldn't waste the time with them. I had and sometimes still had a parasite issue and got the biggest Coralife model and it did nothing to improve it. It also heated my water up 4-5 degrees and the added temp over a long period during the Summer caused the loss of a few plants.

The Coralife models seem well built but as with ALL Coralife bulbs of any type, they suck. I had a bulb once that only lasted for 6mos and they definitely are not cheap.

I would just think about what you expect to gain. I wouldn't recommend one unless you have issues that a UV could/should possibly correct.[/QUOTE]


I appreciate your input. I like to hear about every possible angle on a subject when I am trying to research things. I guess I kind of fit into the category of not really needing one. I had a bad columnaris outbreak in my tank a little while back, and I guess I am more looking to gain some added resistance to any illness that I can. I am pretty dillegent with maintenance, but was hoping that it would help even beyond good maintenance practices.


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## Buerkletucson (Apr 8, 2014)

nh murph said:


> I see what you're saying. So, if I were to put a tee in my return line for the UV, I would obviously be reducing the flow to the sterilizer. Even though I would be flowing less of the water through it, the water that does go through it would be much more thouroughly treated, resulting in treating the tank better as a whole. I assume that reducing the flow rate to the suggested flow for parasites would not negitavely impact the performance on algea and bacteria, correct? For that matter, If I were to just go with the 18w turbo twist, I could probably have a pretty happy result with the 164gpm of the 2215 going straight through it? If I go overboard with the UV sterilizer is it possible to starve my pleco and twig cat? They need SOME algea...


Yup....putting a T on the output with a valve to regulate the flow and you can "dial in" the amount of flow to the UV sterilizer. 
I have a water flow meter both on my UV sterilizer line and also the total return line to the tank so I know both GPH rates exactly. 

Correct.....the lowest flow rate would be the best to help with all 3 issues. 

Going to large on a UV sterilizer is a waste......causes extra heat in the tank and costs more for the unit and bulbs. The 3x should be more than enough for your tank. 

I give my Bristlenose pleco zuchinni so he's a happy camper! *r2

The Turbo-Twist UV sterilizers are awesome IMHO. *w3
They are a great benefit in any tank and are almost maintenance-free.......wipe the glass tube every couple of months and replace the bulb every 9-months or so. 
Zero issues with mine and I've never ever had a bulb burn out......replace the bulb at specified intervals to keep them working as advertised.

When I first installed this on in my old 150G tank I immediately noticed a more "crispness" to the water clarity that I never had before.


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## Rod4Rodger (Jan 2, 2012)

Coralife Turbo-twist

Bulbs do not ever last long enough in any system. You need a very low flow rate, or put them in series. The GPM factory ratings are about 1/4 of what really works, and you would be better off with fewer water changes through them that running the water too fast. 

I have three 36 watt in series and run about 1100 gph. What is your goal, algae control or disease control? Algae control is better served with more water changes to remove the nitrogen from the system. Disease control is better served with serious isolation before introduction of new fish and maintaining good water conditions with low mineral buildup and low nitrogen.

I used mine to help get the system in the grove so to speak, and have let the bulbs run so long they are little more than heaters. I have very little algae and no disease.


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## MriGuy85 (Aug 29, 2013)

Have you considered the aquatop AF series canisters? They have uv built in to the top...seems like it might be a savings to have your filter and uv in one...just my $.02 and a guess, at that.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

That's the thing about UVs, they only minimize risk to exposure to pathogens or things that hurt your fish. They do nothing for Columnaris. If it gets in your tank it won't matter what you have going. I have read about many outbreaks where the person's UV didn't do anything for them. I ran a Coralife 36W on my 75g and even curbed the flow and still had fish getting the wasting disease. It did a great job of bumping my temp an addit'l 4 degrees but that was it. I would love to read about proof that they work in a tank environment and their prediction against various bacteria. I know exposure to UV kills stuff, just not convinced the systems work well. And after dealing with Coralife products the first 2yrs of keeping tanks, and from then on vowing to "never again", I don't trust the turbo-twist to do anything. Although, it probably kicks the hell out of some green water. JMO.

I would look to a company like Lifeguard Aqautics if I was looking at a UV.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

jrman83 said:


> I would love to read about proof that they work in a tank environment and their prediction against various bacteria.


There are many links that "claim" uv to be a credible treatment for different issues.But when used as an approach to any one particular disease it seems to be repeated all too many times that getting every drop of water in the tank through the unit is unpredictable if not completely impossible!Since many parasites have a limited time of free swimming(while not on host{your fish}which hopefully will not go through the unit),or are attached to surfaces(usaully your substrate)this lowers the chances of it(the pest) ever finding its way to the uv unit.Couple that with the lower flow rate needed to kill parasite and there is no credible source that will claim(and gaurentee) that uv will work on anything beside green water(which it is proven to deal with very well).
I've used them and not and can't say I have ever noted a difference.
I'll add since you(Murph) said you read many different reveiws that I hope you have read the reveiws on the corallife(they were many complaints of the ballast that runs the light failing prematurely).Nothing that comes from corrallife is top notch or cheap.Back when they were "energy savers" and mostly MH lighting mfgs. they were quality,now they are right in the mix of other questionable aquarium supply mfgs.If I were looking for a quality piece of equipment I would look to a mfg. that makes nothing else but UV equipment,but that is just me.
Too many of the aquarium supply mfgs. know that fish keepers are dumb and waste money.They make a good living off of it!
UV Sterilizers, Biological/ Mechanical Filters, and Pumps by Aqua Ultraviolet | aquaultraviolet.com
This is the mfg. of the unit I got with my 120 fromNJ.
This guy I got the tank from(TOM H) bought nothing but the best equipment you could imagine!Over 15K in reciepts for a 120g!!!
I have yet to hook this up!The tank is thriving without it(it's a reef tank not FW) with very low fish stock.


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## nh murph (Mar 21, 2014)

Thanks for all the input fellas. I know that there is no sure thing that will keep the aquarium safe from all invaders. I am merely thinking in the terms that every litte thing I can do to keep my water clean and clear is worth looking into. Perhaps the cost of the UV unit would be better spent towards a nice co2 system... I do know that I can't get my tank to run as cool as I would like it to as it is, so heating the water a few more degrees puts a big check mark in the con's column!


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