# Individual vs. Group filtration



## iDRINKbLEACH (Feb 27, 2011)

Hello everyone,

I am in the process of designing a rack system for my fish room. I like the idea of buying a bunch of non-tempered glass tanks, drilling them, installing bulkheads and plumbing them all to one big wetdry/sump/fluid bed. My biggest concern is disease. The idea that if one tanks gets sick, basically every tank gets sick. I could also eventually incorporate an automatic (or at least less labor intensive) water change system. 

The other solution is to use individual filters. The only options that I can imagine are undergravel and a sponge filter and weekly water changes which would be much more labor intensive. 

The racks that I am building will go in my fishroom for now, but will eventually end up in a small retail shop I plan to open this summer. So I have to consider commercial viability also. Basically, my fishroom is practice for when I go "live" in June or July.

What are your experiences with either of these systems? What pro and cons am I not seeing? What other strategies to I have to control disease it I go with a group tank system.

Thanks in advance.


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## KG4mxv (Oct 25, 2011)

I am in the favor of not using a group filter for the same reasons as you had listed.
I am also in the middle of designing a automated water change system for my home.
I am using a Arduino mega micro controller with a 16 relay control board and a ethernet shield so I can remotely monitor system status. 

I already built a 55 gallon water conditioner to eliminate the problems I had with using filtered city water. (the filter took care of the chlorine but not the temperature and when the water is cold it can have much more dissolved gasses. and causes pop-eye.)
The water conditioner takes care of this with an aerator and a heater. 
black food grade plastic 55 Gallon barrel for $45.00US
12Vdc plastic solenoid valves on ebay for $10.00 each. 
12DC waterpump (was orig made for RV potable water system.) $50.00 
micro controller system $120.00 
Plastic float switches $6.00 
100 Feet of 3/8 OD nylon tubing $45.00

Now Since I travel 99% for my job this system is perfect for me . 
and I only have 3 tanks at the moment and the system is expandable.

For you I would omit the micro controller and solenoid valves. 
I used low voltage since I have a large 12V battery back up system.
For you I would use your utility voltage for your pump.

If you buy in bulk you can get the fittings and valves much cheaper. 
You wil need a lot of "T" fittings and 90's 
3 "T" 2 90's 2 valves per tank. 

I would use two systems.
One system to pump out the old water and one to refill. 
That is the reason for the 2 valves per tank. 

I used all push to fit connectors for ease of use and they can be disconnected at will. but are much more expensive. 
you can use cheaper PVC fittings and pipe. 
So far all the fittings I have used for my system have cost $90.00 
If I used PVC I will bet my cost would have been 2/3 less. But I wanted not to use glue and if I need to make any changes I wouldn't have to cut and pitch the old fittings. 

When I am finished with the system I will post pictures.


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## majerah1 (Oct 29, 2010)

Alot of betta breeders setup a barraks system,which is basically alot of smaller containers setup to drain into a larger sump,where its filtered and then pumped back up into the containers.It makes cleaning 500+ jars alot easier.Disease is a major concern but I know a breeder who would do prevenative measures.Once a month I believe he would run a dose of copper safe through to the fish as well as a a few other things.He had a UV steralizer setup too.Supposedly it kills the ich parasite?

Also something he did was any fish whom looked off in any way was culled.New fish were qted in a seperate area,with nothing in contact wit the barraks system.Different nets,cups,test kits,ect.


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## Summer (Oct 3, 2011)

I would be hesitant as well, for the obvious reasons. However, i've been told most diseases are contracted via fish to fish contact, not through the water column. Same reason fish can be QT'd in a refugium and not spread disease to the fish in the display tank.


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## snail (Aug 6, 2010)

Ich can spread through the water column, don't know about all diseases. I've heard good things about multi tank systems with individual sponge filters run on a central air pump. But like you say water changes could be a pain.


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## iDRINKbLEACH (Feb 27, 2011)

Thanks for the replies. For now I am going to build a ten tank rack (5 bottom and 5 TOP). Tanks will be place sideways. All drilled with a bulkhead about a 1/3 up the side. All plumbed and individually ball valved for ease of draining. Next I a looking for 50 to 100 gallon tank and pump to hold r/o water for easy filling. I post pictures when I start. Thanks again.


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## iDRINKbLEACH (Feb 27, 2011)

Hello,

I had a very productive weekend. Picked-up 15 10-gallon tanks, filters and big air pump. I also bought a ton of wood and mad three racks to hold tanks. Very happy about the outcome so far. I am still stuck on a solution for the filtration. the latest incarnation of my plan is to use sponge filters. I will buy a mag3 or mag 5 with the output hooked to a hose that will go all the way outside. I will simply drop in the pump and drain each tank about 1/3 to 1/2 way weekly. To fill the tanks, I ordered an RO/DI system form E-bay that will do 150 gpd. I found a vendor for 55 gallon food grade plastic tanks (35.00/each). I will plumb two tanks together and pick up a pump form craigslist. I regularly see water pumps that will do the job for 40 to 60 dollars. That way I can just pump the water into each tank with a long hose. 

A lot easier than the siphon and bucket system I am using now. That alone should save me a 5 to 8 hours a week. 

Next step after I set up the water system is to get about 10 to 15 more tanks (20 longs, a few more 10gal and maybe a pair or three 40 gallon breeder tanks for discus. 

the pics are not great but this is the project as of right now.


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