# yellowing leaves on large amazon swords



## zwanged

Hi,

Bad news:
The leaves on my new large amazon swords are yellowing. My research indicates that this is symptomatic of iron deficiency. My substrate is pool filter sand. I have already put 2-3 root tabs near the base of each mother plant. Is there anything else I should do? Will making the substrate deeper + adding more root tabs help? Should I cut off the yellowing leaves (is it a lost cause??)

Is pool filter sand a lousy substrate for amazon swords? I removed them from the pots they came in and moved them into the sandy substrate about a week ago but they seem to be doing worse than before -- yellowing leaves. My 75 gallon tank only has 50 pounds of pool filter sand -- Would adding more sand help?

Or maybe there just are very few nutrients in the sand as the tank has only been up for about 5 weeks? Perhaps I should resist vacuuming the substrate?

Also, when should i cut off the new plant shoots off of the mother plant?

Please advise.

Thanks,
-Zeke


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## jshiloh13

How long ago did you get the plant? I know that some plants are grown with there leaves out of the water, and the old leaves have to die off and be replaced by new ones once submersed in water.


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## zwanged

I got the sword plants about a week ago. They were being grown in water at the LFS but I think at the top of the tank at the LFS the leaves may have been in contact with the air. These swords are quite large.

I added the root-tabs mid-week as it seemed like the leaves were starting to yellow. At this point i guess i need to cut off those leaves.

-Zeke


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## coralbandit

Don't worry about "old leaves" as much as any new growth.It is common for plants to have a little stress when first acquired.


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## oldpunk

While I believe you are probably just loosing some emmersed leaves, (or have a nitrogen problem) here's a good diagram for figuring out plant deficiencies. 










Macronutrients

Calcium (Ca)

* Symptoms: New leaves are distorted or hook shaped. The growing tip may die. Contributes to blossom end rot in tomatoes, tip burn of cabbage and brown/black heart of escarole & celery.
* Sources: Any compound containing the word 'calcium'. Also gypsum.
* Notes: Not often a deficiency problem and too much will inhibit other nutrients.

Nitrogen (N)

* Symptoms: Older leaves, generally at the bottom of the plant, will yellow. Remaining foliage is often light green. Stems may also yellow and may become spindly. Growth slows.
* Sources: Any compound containing the words: 'nitrate', 'ammonium' or 'urea'. Also manure.
* Notes: Many forms of nitrogen are water soluble and wash away. 

Magnesium (Mg)

* Symptoms: Slow growth and leaves turn pale yellow, sometimes just on the outer edges. New growth may be yellow with dark spots.
* Sources: Compounds containing the word 'magnesium', such as Epson Salts. 

Phosphorus (P)

* Symptoms: Small leaves that may take on a reddish-purple tint. Leaf tips can look burnt and older leaves become almost black. Reduced flowers or seed production.
* Sources: Compounds containing the words 'phosphate' or 'bone'. Also greensand.
* Notes: Very dependent on pH range. 

Potassium (K)

* Symptoms: Older leaves may look scorched around the edges and/or wilted. Interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between the leaf veins) develops.
* Sources: Compounds containing the words 'potassium' or 'potash'.

Sulfur (S)

* Symptoms: New growth turns pale yellow, older growth stays green. Stunts growth.
* Sources: Compounds containing the word 'sulfate'.

Micronutrients

Boron (B)

* Symptoms: Poor stem and root growth. Terminal (end) buds may die. Witches brooms sometimes form.
* Sources: Compounds containing the words 'borax' or 'borate'. 

Copper (Cu)

* Symptoms: Stunted growth. Leaves can become limp, curl, or drop. Seed stalks also become limp and bend over.
* Sources: Compounds containing the words 'copper', 'cupric' or 'cuprous'. 

Manganese (Mn)

* Symptoms: Growth slows. Younger leaves turn pale yellow, often starting between veins. May develop dark or dead spots. Leaves and shoots diminished in size. Failure to bloom.
* Sources: Compounds containing the words 'manganese' or 'manganous'.

Molybdenum (Mo)

* Symptoms: Older leaves yellow, remaining foliage turns light green. Leaves can become narrow and distorted.
* Sources: Compounds containing the words 'molybdate' or 'molybdic'.
* Notes: Sometimes confused with nitrogen deficiency.

Zinc (Zn)

* Symptoms: Yellowing between veins of new growth. Terminal (end) leaves may form a rosette.
* Sources: Compounds containing the word 'zinc'.
* Notes: Can become limited in higher pH.

By:Jason C.
Penang, Malaysia


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## Amethyst

I was thinking probably a nitrogen defiency rather than iron if you have a defiency, and the previous post supports that hypothesis. As the tank continues to settle there will probably be more nitrate available for the plants, which will help. 

In the meantime, as stated before, don't worry too much about dying leaves, as long as your plants are still growing new leaves. Though the overall number of leaves should be increasing over time as the plant grows, it's part of the natural cycle for old leaves to die off. You can cut off the yellow leaves if you want to, or leave them. Decaying plants are one source of ammonia/nitrite/nitrate in a tank, and provide nutrients to other plants as they decay. Just make sure your ammonia and nitrite levels are safe for your fish, of course. Assuming your tank is cycled that shouldn't be a problem.

Another possible cause of yellowing leaves, especially if plants in the aquarium are more "leggy" than you would expect, is not enough light, but swords don't need a high light level, so that's probably not the problem either. Just a thought.


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## Amethyst

Oldpunk - love the diagram and info in your post. This should be pinned, if not already. Thanks.


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