# Permanent in-aquarium "stick-on" water tests



## bmoore09 (Nov 20, 2010)

I was in Petsmart the other day and wanted to buy some of the water test kits for my new tank while it was cycling. 
While I was there i saw a test kit that actually stuck in the aquarium with suction cups and had readings for ammonia, ph, etc. Instead of using the little test strips you just leave that in the aquarium. 

Are these any good?


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## automatic-hydromatic (Oct 18, 2010)

that's sounds pretty neat; have a link?

yeah I too would question the accuracy of it though...


EDIT: I found some with PH and Ammonia testing, but nothing for nitrites and nitrates, which would complete it. and they consider a "master test" too, which I don't see how that can be if it only tests two water parameters (besides temp). and it claims to use "strip testing technology", so yeah I wouldn't think it would be as accurate as a liquid test kit


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## bmoore09 (Nov 20, 2010)

automatic-hydromatic said:


> that's sounds pretty neat; have a link?
> 
> yeah I too would question the accuracy of it though...
> 
> ...


This is my first big(ger) aquarium. I was wondering, whiel cycling, at what point do I need to do a big water change? WHen the ammonia level hits a certain point? I'm cycling with fish. It's been two weeks and I just lost one of them so I wanted to get a test kit.


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## automatic-hydromatic (Oct 18, 2010)

It would be best to just invest in a good liquid test kit, like the API Master Freshwater Test Kit. That's what I use, and it's simply awesome.

Just how big of an aquarium are you talking about here?

If you're cycling with fish, and you have no live plants in the aquarium to eat up the ammonia, then you can expect to see a dramatic ammonia spike pretty quick. I wouldn't do a water change unless it got _really_ high, like 6+. You want the ammonia present so the nitrite producing bacterium have something to feed on and start to culture.

Once the nitrites are on the rise, you won't have to worry about doing water changes to get rid of the ammonia, but instead you'll be watching the nitrites and nitrates. Typically, the nitrites wont spiral out of control as much as ammonia or nitrates will, because as soon as they get a good culture going, the nitrate producing bacterium will start to grow and will start to consume them and keep them low.

Once those nitrate producing bacteria are on the rise, you're ammonia and nitrite should eventually level off at 0. This is a slow process, and it can take 6-8 weeks, so don't be in a hurry with it. You want to keep you nitrates around 20-40, with 40 being the point at which you want to do a water change to lower them a bit. Routine water changes will keep the nitrates from getting too high once the tank is cycled.


Also, the largest water change you should do while cycling is about 50%. Once the tank is established, a routine 25% change is all that should be needed to keep things healthy.


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## Gizmo (Dec 6, 2010)

Bottom line - get a test kit, and get it FAST

Immediately change 50% of the water. If there's enough ammonia and/or nitrite to actually kill one of your fish, it's only going to get worse from there.

Whew! Now that disaster *should* be averted, here's a low-down of the experiences I've had with the different testing methods:

In-tank continuous tests - sounds great, but is actually the least-accurate and will wear out over time. I've personally never used them, but I've heard horror stories of the ammonia tests being off by ~1 ppm after a month of being in the tank.

Test strips - probably the best overall. Quick and dirty, however, not as accurate as titration. I would go out and buy some 5-in-1 test strips straight away if I were you. Swirl and look, pretty much, and you can get +/- 0.5 ppm accuracy on them.

Liquid titration test kits - the most accurate, the most cost effective, however by far the most involved and time-consuming. You can get within +/- 0.2 ppm on them and can test for much more diverse things like alkalinity, phosphate, copper, etc. My personal favorite testing method, using API products. However, SeaChem and some other companies have kits as well.

For you, I definitely recommend test strips while you are getting your tank cycled, and unless you're ok with poisoning and killing fish to start your cycle, do an immediate 50% PWC and 25% PWC's daily until your ammonia and nitrite spikes drop to zero. Good luck!


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Wow, not to throw in another opinion......don't use strips or anything that resembles it...get the liquid test kit. If you are already reading ammonia and/or nitrites no need to change water unless it is over 1 or youve gone beyond one week. You can go higher, but you risk your fish. 6 will probably kill everything. Zero is not the goal while cycling, just 1 or below for ammonia/nitrite.

Get your kit and post your results if you are unsure of what to do.


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## beaslbob (May 29, 2009)

From what I hear one of the advantages of the full time skick on ammonia test dot is that it measures the dangerous free ammonia not the total of free and locked ammonia which the liquid test kits measure.

With ammonia locks like prime it is possible the liquid test kit would test high ammonia but any kit that just measures free ammonia would show low or no ammonia.


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## mfgann (Oct 21, 2010)

I think when I saw the stick on types in a catalog I also saw "refills" for them. I assumed they were fancy test strips that lived in the aquarium... but I may be wrong. Check into it before you buy, though, since it did seem like you'd have to replace something in them.

I use the API master freshwater test kit. Works well, though a little time consuming.


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## majerah1 (Oct 29, 2010)

I know several people who use the guages in the tank.They are pretty accurate from what ive heard.Just here they are too much money


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## bmoore09 (Nov 20, 2010)

THanks for all teh advice. Here's the product I was talking about. It does look like it has nitrates or nitrites on it. Anyone?

Live Meter Master Fresh Water Test Kit - Water Conditioners - Fish - PetSmart

EDIT: ok, maybe it only has PH and Ammonia. Im not sure as I can't really see. Anyone else think this would be beneficial?


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## WhiteGloveAquatics (Sep 3, 2009)

they dont last long and are very inaccurate versus a drop test.


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