# What is happening to my Aquarium??



## Jeeperez (Jul 2, 2013)

Hello everyone, new to the forum..

I'm having a slight issue with a recently set up freshwater Aquarium.
It is a 14 gallon with standard fluorescent light, fake plants and gravel substrate. Started testing the water on April 20th, 2013, I set it up a week before that.

I currently have 2 Orange Platys, 2 Gold Barbs, 3 Black Phantom Tetras, and 2 Guppies.

I started with the Platy's and Barbs to get the cycle started. The tank took about 8 weeks and no water changes to get it to finally cycle. Once it did I began regular water changes (25-30%) once per week. I also added 2 Tetras and 2 Guppies and doubled my amount of stock to 8 (I know its not good to double the biological load)

It is around this time I began reading 0's again on Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates just like day 1. The water has been cloudy with the exception of the day I do a water change. At week 9 the tank began growing brown algae. I was told by a local freshwater expert to keep the light off completely unless i'm looking at the tank to solve the algae problem (it was on around 12+ hrs/day before) which I have been since. The algae problem is the same and the water is slightly less cloudy but its not clear.

I do use Aqueon water condition as directed but my fear is it isn't removing all the Chlorine from my tap water. My local water is treated with high levels of Chlorine and smells like a public pool coming out of the faucet. I've been reading 0 on everything including nitrates since I started doing water changes..is the water conditioner enough? Should I stop doing water changes to see if my numbers go back up?

The fish don't seem stressed but my water quality doesn't look/seem right to me.

thanks!
Cheers


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## Jeeperez (Jul 2, 2013)

I am worried that the water conditioner is not removing the chlorine efficiently enough and I killed all my essential bacteria..


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Use 2x your conditioner.As all chlorine removers will only remove(deactivate)a certain amount of chlorine.By doubling your conditioner you should be able to safely change water without concern chlorine is killing your BB.
The LFS was right also about light.Lights out for 3 days(not to be turned on at all) should help with cloudiness.Lowering food added will help also as most cloudy water is a symptom of over feeding.
You only need light on when you are looking at tank as the fish don't like light and you don't have any live plants.The brown algae could have been/be diatoms which will go away on their own when they depleat their food supply(silicate).Keeping your lights on for 12hrs aday with no live plants is ASKING for algae IMO.
WELCOME!


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## Jeeperez (Jul 2, 2013)

coralbandit said:


> Use 2x your conditioner.As all chlorine removers will only remove(deactivate)a certain amount of chlorine.By doubling your conditioner you should be able to safely change water without concern chlorine is killing your BB.
> The LFS was right also about light.Lights out for 3 days(not to be turned on at all) should help with cloudiness.Lowering food added will help also as most cloudy water is a symptom of over feeding.
> You only need light on when you are looking at tank as the fish don't like light and you don't have any live plants.The brown algae could have been/be diatoms which will go away on their own when they depleat their food supply(silicate).Keeping your lights on for 12hrs aday with no live plants is ASKING for algae IMO.
> WELCOME!


Thanks for the reply. Should I continue per usual with water changes? I'm afraid that i'm starting back at ground zero with the BB because I haven't been getting any readings, not even nitrate with 9 fish for 2 weeks straight. I've been keeping the light off and the fish are more active now and not hiding as much.

Also, how long should I wait after conditioning the water to add it to my tank?


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Watch your levels and change water when ammonia or nitrite(if they show up again)are over 1 ppm,or if nitrates get over 20-40.You really shouldn't have to wait at all changing water ,but if you are still concerned about the chlorine pool stores sell chlorine test kits for like $8 and you can reassure yourself there is no chlorine.
Often municipalities will raise the chlorine added to supply when there is additional loads on their supply source(rains,runoff,local fertalizing, or other issues that effect where they get the water from).They (the municipality) will do different things several times a year sometimes(flushing main lines and seasonal issues).


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## Jeeperez (Jul 2, 2013)

Great thanks, I will get a Chlorine test kit and test the water and do another water change on Friday and report back my results. I'm hoping to get this water quality issue settled


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

I have a chlorine test kit just for peace of mind and if I think my water smells strong I test,or even every now and then as suppliers are funny and secrative about what they do.I change alot of water so it is really important to me not be worried about that also.Many here on site prefer seachem PRIME as the conditioner of choice.It may seem more expensive by volume but is more concentrated than all others and actually measured properly is the most effecient dechlorinator going.It also detoxifies ammonia,and other issues should they arise.
Good Luck!


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## SusquehannaDriftwood (May 11, 2013)

This is why I always just buy distilled water from the grocery store every week. Its only 85 cents a gallon. I never even have to use any water conditioner


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Distilled or RO water is not apppropriate for all fish and with few exceptions(discus,GBR and saltwater aquariums) should not be used without being "cut" with tap to produce proper pH,and hardness.


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## SusquehannaDriftwood (May 11, 2013)

coralbandit said:


> Distilled or RO water is not apppropriate for all fish and with few exceptions(discus,GBR and saltwater aquariums) should not be used without being "cut" with tap to produce proper pH,and hardness.




I have been using nothing but distilled water in my freshwater and saltwater aquariums for yearsss. Never had any problems whatsoever. Of course with the saltwater there are tons of chemicals and condition that goes into those bad boys. They are alot of work


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

The salt mix adds everything necessary to the water so distilled or RO are BEST for them,but for average tropical freshwater fish distilled or RO are not appropriate,or necessarily even a healthy choice.


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## SusquehannaDriftwood (May 11, 2013)

coralbandit said:


> The salt mix adds everything necessary to the water so distilled or RO are BEST for them,but for average tropical freshwater fish distilled or RO are not appropriate,or necessarily even a healthy choice.



Wellllllll, eveyone does there own thing. All I can say is, my fish are always healthy and my tanks are always clean. And my water levels are always on point. The only thing I add to my tank is maybe some stress coat and the little bit of water condition at the begging of setting a new tank up


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## Goby (Mar 21, 2012)

SusquehannaDriftwood said:


> Wellllllll, eveyone does there own thing. All I can say is, my fish are always healthy and my tanks are always clean. And my water levels are always on point. The only thing I add to my tank is maybe some stress coat and the little bit of water condition at the begging of setting a new tank up


In the past when I needed things super soft and acidic I used RO water, especially in certain breeding and conditioning tanks...but not without dosing minerals etc. There aren't any dissolved solids in distilled water...the only ingredient, is water. Hydrogen and Oxygen (lower dissolved oxygen btw) isn't enough for fish. I'm not sure how you've gotten along so well for so long...puzzling. 

I wonder if one can eventually fortify the water with fish food? I dunno. 

For what it's worth, you may want to consider a product called Kent RO. It stands to reason that your fish may be lacking some essential nutrients even though they live-on.


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## Jeeperez (Jul 2, 2013)

Well I picked up a Chlorine test kit and gave it a try on my tap water. It reads as 2PPM right out of the faucet which is ideal for a POOL. 

Using 10 gallons of the same water, I treated it with the Aqueon water conditioner per their directions and retested. The results? Free of chlorine after about 10 mins. So at least I know that works ( I usually leave the water i'm using to add to my tank in the 5 gallon overnight before using it anyway)

I've left the light completely off for 2 days now; as far as I can tell the water seems clearer. But there is definitely still brown algae on some of the fake plants and substrate. 

My water test results as of July 1st are..

PH- 7.6
Ammonia- 0 (Zero)
Nitrite- 0 (Zero)
Nitrate- 0 (Zero)

My local freshwater expert tells me I shouldn't be getting nothing in my values especially in the Nitrates, I will have to retest tomorrow. Something should spike especially since 5 fish were added in just the past 2-3 weeks.


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## Jeeperez (Jul 2, 2013)

Happy independence day 

I retested my water this morning and got the following..

PH- 7.6
Ammonia- 0
Nitrite- 0
Nitrate- 0

Of course it still made no sense whatsoever. I was researching other people who also were receiving 0 Nitrates (mostly planted aquariums or SW) and one thing that did pop up was the nitrate test kit could be giving a false reading. It was advised to really agitate step A of the Red Sea test kit, the instructions say to shake for 30 seconds but to really agitate it was what was needed. I hit it a few times and shook for about 2 minutes to get the crystals mixed well and then tested..

Nitrate- 2PPM

I know its still low but its better than 0. I am wondering if I have a bad test kit.. (expiration date is 11/13 and I paid $17.99 from the LFS when I set up this tank 11 weeks ago). I also heard that some people get bad results with the Red Sea brand. Has anyone else had/heard problems with this?

Here is my tank currently.. fluorescent is off. Just natural lighting



And here is my Quarantine tank which I am setting up this week.


Its a 10 gallon with incandescent lighting for now


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

OK,some how regardless of cycling before(I have no explanation), it would appear you are now cycling fish in.So keep an eye on all your parameters(as you are ) and be prepared for anything to spike!Could be nitrAte,could be ammonia,could be nitrIte(part of having no explanation is not knowing what is next).Watch all levels and change water as needed.NitrAte could go up to 40(although 20's is preferable) before needing to change water.Ammonia and nitrite should be kept at 1 ppm or less.
Good Luck!
Tanks look good!


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## Jeeperez (Jul 2, 2013)

UPDATE 07.12.13

I awoke this morning only to find that my female platy was dead. She seemed to wiggle herself into a corner and never came out. She was acting shy lately, for the past week or so and hid all the time. She hardly ate and seemed to be opening and closing her mouth a lot.

I thought she was pregnant but obviously I was wrong. I am wondering now if she was overstressed from the male, or if the water quality is still an issue. I saw no spots on her fins or anything, she looked healthy.

My test results on 07.07.13 were..
PH- 7.6
AMMONIA- 0.2
NITRITE- 0.05
NITRATE- 2

Todays results..
PH- 7.8
AMMONIA- 0
NITRITE- 0
NITRATE- 2

The water has a funny smell to it and the fact that a fish died i'm going to perform a minimum 30% water change or more. I still don't see how nitrate levels never go beyond 2PPM


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

I would agree with changing water even though your levels are fine.Sometimes fish we get just aren't healthy and they don't last as long as they should.They just instantly die when we get them ,they can linger around(in bad health) for some time.
Do your water change and watch other fish for any symptoms,but I have no real idea as why your fish died.
Sorry about your fish.


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## Jeeperez (Jul 2, 2013)

Thanks, coralbandit.

Its sad to see her go she was the first fish we picked out.
I have noticed that one of my tetras is hiding now. But one of her fins looks a little eaten. Shes a small tetra, and is harassed by the male a lot. The other female is much larger and is harassed just as much but doesn't hide

Should I put her in the quarantine tank? Both females? Just the male? Or just let them be. I don't want another dead fish!


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

Not surewhat to say?Check out aq advisor to see if you can fit more black skirts.In general tetras do better in schools of 5.May help to spread out the beating/or just cause enough distraction for the others to get by.With groups of 2 or 3 there will always be a dominant fish who may stress the others.


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## Jeeperez (Jul 2, 2013)

Update 7/21/13

Yet another fish has died. I lost one of my male guppies overnight, found him upside down in one of the plants. My wife and I noticed last night that this particular guppy looked as if it was missing parts of tail and there was a large red spot which hadn't been there before. But it acted normal along with the other guppy so we decided not to put it in Quarantine. 

As of today I did a water change, and moved the remaining guppy to Quarantine because I am noticing a lot of white spots on its tail and just as a precaution. 

I must note that yesterday we did add a Pleco and a Shrimp to help control algae, they were not quarantined beforehand. All fish are appearing normal.

Water test results 7/20/13 (before the guppy passed)
Ammonia- 0
Nitrite- 0
Nitrate- 5PPM
PH- 7.8


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## Jeeperez (Jul 2, 2013)

Update

The guppy we put into Quarantine is now just laying around on the bottom. It will move but I have a bad feeling it won't make it through it through the night


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