# JC Goes Bigger



## jccaclimber2

Some of you have heard that I've been in the process of setting up a large tank in my living room. Now that it is in the house I figure the time has come to start a thread on it.
Unfortunately I can't seem to find my pictures from when it came in. I found it on Craigslist as a deal I couldn't pass up, but knew it would take a lot of work to get going.

So, with no further interruption I present to you a tank that has "some scratches". The last owners were doing two things with this tank. First, they were keeping chickens in it. Second, they were moving it (2/3 full!) around unsecured in the bed of a pickup truck to move fish from the river to their pond.










Being acrylic this involved sanding. I figured the top would be the best place to start since I wouldn't be looking through that panel. It was a bit unnerving at first going at this tank with 400 grit paper because it removed any remaining clarity the surface had.










The other problem with this tank was the broken overflow right in the center.










When I say broken, I really do mean it.










The real problem though was that it was in the center both side to side and front to back. I didn't want to deal with planting around it, so out I tried to remove it with a hacksaw.










That wasn't really working well, so I moved to the rougher miter saw.










Still not satisfied I pulled out a yet more aggressive tool, and was very careful not to hit the walls or floor.










Finally, the overflow tower came out.










Left behind was a quarter inch all stump, which I ground out (carefully) with a flap disc on the same angle grinder.










I wasn't getting the scratches out with the 400 by hand, or with a power sander, so I moved up to 220 grit with a palm sander. Note that all sand paper used was wet/dry paper.










Here is a view of the tank after the first or second sanding step.










Here it is a bit later on in the process. In total I went 220>400>600>800>1000>1500>2000>3000 (3M Trizact)>Novus 1>Novus 2>Novus 3 (cleaner).










After getting the tank cleaned up (background), I started work on the stand. While it held (and met the predicted deflection values) with one sheet of plywood on each side, I opted to use two. This was mostly the result of me wanting a fully open span under the tank to make work on the equipment easier. I wanted a little bit of a rise in the center before loading, so I put 450 pounds (water) on each end with a support under the center before securing the last two panels.










After that came legs, and the fun of getting this behemoth up on to the stand by myself. I don't have a lot of photos of the stand after this, but suffice to say it holds just fine. Yes it looks like a long span. Yes, I did do the appropriate calculations. Yes, it is intentional that the bottom bracing is beside and not under the legs.










Moving inside (right up the steps and in the front door in fact) I decided to insulate the back of the tank to save on heating cost in the winter. I also needed a background, so I wrapped the 1" foam in a long sheet of black fabric.










The fabric is secured in place with t-handled needles.










While plumbing up my reactor I remembered that you can bend PVC under some heat. I'd never tried it, but decided to give it a shot. Inch and a quarter PVC bends reasonably easily over a gas stove. If you decide to try this yourself please don't get the PVC too close to the flame, the fumes probably aren't good for you.










Skipping a few steps, here is the tank installed in my living room. Special thanks are due to the friends who helped me get this thing inside and on the stand. I had leveled the stand in advance as my 96 year old house was very much not level. Not shown (maybe later) are the two steel columns that I added in the basement to support this tank. The wall behind it is also the main structural wall through the center of the house,and the tank is perpendicular to the floor joists.










With the background raised up the higher PVC and overflow box are vanishing. I have a plan for the PVC that is still white, but that will take several months to resolve.










While it may not do anything, I like to throw down some fertilizer when I start tanks. I spread one to two cups around the bottom of the tank.










The next step is to dirt the tank. The good news is that my local home depot has dirt on sale. The bad news is that it was frozen solid. A crow-bar got the bags apart at the store, but it was obviously still solid when I got home. I broke it up as much as possible and added some boiling water. I knew this wouldn't be enough to get everything thawed, but it did let me spread it out a bit and get a better idea on quantity. Ultimately though simply waiting until tomorrow is the solution I'll be using before spreading it out the rest of the way.










More to come.


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## eljefe0000

a project like this is a labor of love if you have the time and effort its very well spent on something you love, do keep us updated id love to see what this would look like when your all done with it.


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## coralbandit

Krylon fusion spray paint is aquarium safe,so this may be an easy option for pipes.


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## jccaclimber2

I got the dirt in today, between 2 and 2.5 inches. It worked out to three bags of MGOPM. I opted to try graded pool filter sand (centered around #30) rather than my usual play sand or black blasting sand. I only have one bag since I was trying it out for color before buying more. The pool place has rather crummy winter hours (go figure), so I'll get another 200 pounds tomorrow. From that point I'll throw in some fast growing plants to get things started.


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## jrman83

Cool JC! How big was this tank? What lighting you going with?


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## aireal

Defiantly keep us updated. I'd like to see pictures as you progress with it.


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## majerah1

Wow, that thing sanded up quite nicely! I know it is going to look fantastic!


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## jccaclimber2

jrman83 said:


> Cool JC! How big was this tank? What lighting you going with?


Nominal dimensions are 300 gallons (8 long x 2 deep x 2.5 tall). I wanted deeper and not as tall, but this came by. Lighting is currently slated to be two 48" 4 bulb T5HO fixtures (Aquatic Life). A semi-local fish store is trying to convince me to use their in house LEDs, but I'm not convinced yet.


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## jccaclimber2

Dirt in, sand in, and time for a couple plants. Some light planting to get things started. A couple dozen crypts, more dozens of dwarf sag to get fast coverage for the shrimp. Eventually added a rubin sword and a couple stems. I'll move the CO2 within the next week and the harder plants when that happens. Also added a couple dozen cherries to see what happens.


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## coralbandit

I knew it was a 300g from your DC pump post but MAN!It looks bigger with you laying on top of it!You need those tongs for getting plants in their!I can't reach the bottom of my 180 without getting on a chair or step ladder!The tongs make short easy work of it!
Looking good!


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## jccaclimber2

No changes in planting since the other day, but I'm planning out stocking. I'm well aware that the fish will probably eventually eat the cherries, but when you have the surplus of cherry shrimp that I do this really isn't an issue.

Currently in my 75 I have:
2 gibbiceps in the 6 inch range. These guys are big poop machines, but they are gentle giants that never seem to disturb my plants despite their size. I'm weighing keeping these guys, and welcome opinions.
4 adult angelfish. Two female wild type and two male koi/sunset.
12-18 (not sure) cardinal tetras. I started with 18 quite a while ago and don't count, so it wouldn't surprise me if one or two have moved on in the food chain.
18-24 rummy nose tetras.
5 zebra danios. I really love these guys, and they do a great job of running around like squirrels and keeping the rummy noses from getting too comfortable and harassing the adult angels (yes, really).

I also have 5 dwarf chain loaches that used to be in that tank but which were getting out competed for food. I've since started feeding more, but don't want to starve them.


I am planning to add:
Another 7 danios
24 cardinals
24 rummy nose tetras
Either more chain loaches or a dozen corries. C. sterbai comes to mind as accepting of warm water, but C. acutus may work as well. I suspect the sterbai will be more readily available.

I have several dozen dime to nickel bodied koi angels growing out at the moment. I would like to eventually add a dozen or so of these as they become large enough to separate. At that point I figure I will need to remove the adult angels.

Any other fish suggestions are welcome. Bloodfins and pristella tetras have been suggested, but I think I'll be well there with the ones I am already planning to add. I used to have a nice group of male endlers which somehow outran the angels and I enjoyed that. The catch is that if I leave for a week the fish don't get fed and the angels have more incentive to go hunting.

Someone suggested german rams. I think they are lovely fish but I'm concerned about how they might interact with the angels. I also help maintain a tank that used to have some and I got very tired of them pecking at me every time I was in the tank.


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## jrman83

Nice going so far! Good sized tank for a Rubin, since they get huge. You need at least 100+ of Cadinals. I have had right around 150 in one of my 125s and still wanted more. Their colors in mass cannot be matched by anything, I think. I would have about 250 in your tank, along with everything else you posted.


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## jccaclimber2

If you mean rubin sword, there is one in the back left (not in the picture). I've never ever had good luck with them, so hopefully this one will turn out better.


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## coralbandit

puntius desoni(rose line sharks!)Incredibly colorful ,active,schooling and peaceful.You got the right sized tank to enjoy them and for them to enjoy.I have 11 in my 180 with cards and rummies and they don't bother anyone.The rummies even sort of look like minature roselines,and I have found different sized similiar species(appearance) to be a great natural looking asset to any tank.They even "nibble" on algae if it is available!They are found cheapest and smallest at petcos!Sometimes on sale for $5.My LFS just lowered their price to $15 for smaller ones(still $25 for larger).They can reach 6" eventually and get more colorful as they grow.Wouldn't have my large tank without!


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## coralbandit

I'm also SUPER INTERESTED in how you are going to apply your co2,and the results you get.You're kind of in my boat now with large volume and surface extraction.


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## jccaclimber2

I can't believe that I forgot about roselines, that's a good idea. I'm a bit iffy on them as I really love their coloration up to about 3 inches, and I'm iffy after that. On the other hand, they would compete well for food and would actually have enough space to swim around.


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## jccaclimber2

coralbandit said:


> I'm also SUPER INTERESTED in how you are going to apply your co2,and the results you get.You're kind of in my boat now with large volume and surface extraction.



With a giant reactor of course. In an effort to cut down on micro-bubbles (and return pump head loss) I've opted to place the CO2 reactor before the not yet installed foam media.

On a friend's 135 (like a tall 125) we use a simple water filter case as a reactor, but put it downstream of his canister filter. It releases a fair number of micro-bubbles, and I suspect is small enough that it restricts the filter to some degree. Here is a photo of his tank. The bubble wall is only normally on at the very end of the day and at night.










In my case I don't like the micro-bubbles and want to at least slightly decrease them. I'm also using a reactor, but opted to go a bit bigger. I used 6" schedule 40 PVC as my base material. You can see the reactor minus the CO2 line in the lower left of this picture.


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## garstrom

Pretty cool looking JC, Great project and finish. My only concern is that the stand is sturdy
enough, your looking at over 3,000 lbs. I think a couple more 4x4's in the middle would help a lot. When I built my stand for my 55g I used 8- 4x4's and braced up my basement floors as well.. Great pictures Thanks for sharing


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## jccaclimber2

Garstrom,
I understand and appreciate your concern, and I always appreciate people double-checking my calculations. None of us are above making a mistake or invalid assumption, and my wife will not appreciate a tank migrating from the living room to the basement. My 1918 built house might not appreciate it either.

I did the calculations in advance on the stand and it will hold a far larger tank than this if needed. The plywood on the bottom of the deck makes all the difference in the world. The area moment of this layup is around 484 in^4. For comparison, this is equivalent to either five 2x10s in the tall direction or ten 2x8s. The 4x4 legs work out to around 60 psi in compression, and pass a buckling check as well. The left side has a sheet of plywood to prevent wobble front to back and the back has a diagonal to prevent sideways movement. I had a 300 ish pound friend do several solid shoves in various directions with the tank setup in my garage to make sure it wasn't going anywhere.

The trim around the bottom doesn't do much for the weight distribution, but exists to keep the corners from trying to buckle in or out if someone hits just one. After some pads the floor is 3/4" red oak followed by the original and surprisingly solid subfloor planks. Floor joists are old 2x8s and happen to be reinforced in some areas to decrease old house floor sag. This is followed by a pair of 2x8s going the same direction of the tank with two steel columns sitting on 24x24x6" laminated blocks. The main supporting beam through the house is also along the back side. I leveled the stand before filling and it did not move (side to side or front to back tilt) when filled, nor has it since then.

I've assumed E=1.3x10^6 psi for stiffness, and δ = 5 q L^4 / E I 384 for deflection, and the actual measure deflection matches my calculations.

I don't bring it up online often, and you should not assume that my comments in this forum rely on it, but I am a registered professional engineer.


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## garstrom

Wow, I guess you do have it figured out,Good Luck -I sure wish I had the room for a project like that.Pretty awesome


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## jccaclimber2

garstrom said:


> Wow, I guess you do have it figured out,Good Luck -I sure wish I had the room for a project like that.Pretty awesome


I choose to do a lot of things that would drive other people nuts. I have no TV* and no cable, the newest vehicle I've ever owned was roughly 10 years old when I bought it, etc.
While maintenance isn't bad (by design), the initial time to set something like this up is very large. Watching my co-workers with kids I have no idea how I would do something like this and raise a kid at the same time.

* I do have something set up to watch movies on occasionally, but not watching broadcast shows frees up a ton of time.


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## coralbandit

What is in your reactor?Or how does it function?
No TV!You deserve the large tank!You probly have enough control not to drink(booze) much either.I would probly be 99% liquid!


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## jccaclimber2

Its just a big empty chamber, just like the one on my 75. Water comes in the top, and goes out the bottom. The turbulence inside makes the bubbles churn around and provide surface area for diffusion. I will be adding a recirculating line to prevent gas lock just as I did with my last one, although I'll have to diagram this later to explain it better. If it helps, think of it like a reversed egg tumbler.


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## coralbandit

No media(bio balls) or spinning anything?Just installing water and co2 on the top and outlet on bottom?


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## jccaclimber2

I always figured that media balls just slow the flow down and result in deadspots. I don't even let my CO2 out with an airstone, I just let the (silicone) airline dead end in there. There's plenty of turbulance as is, and I actually want my water velocity slower so that the CO2 tumbles and dissolves rather than getting blown out the bottom.


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## jccaclimber2

coralbandit said:


> What is in your reactor?Or how does it function?
> No TV!You deserve the large tank!You probly have enough control not to drink(booze) much either.I would probly be 99% liquid!


I have enough other vices that are devices without the tv. In fact I don't drink much if ever. We had a conversation about that at work the other day actually. When drunk I would either I'd be more normal (and where would the fun be in that), or I'd be more like myself, and I don't think most people could handle that.


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## jccaclimber2

In making another post I inadvertently realized what my "simple sump" actually cost. I figured I would outline it here if nothing else as a reference to others:

39x39x2" block of Poret filter foam from Swiss Tropicals - $100
Used 75 gallon aquarium - $40
Custom 7' acrylic overflow box from Meyer Plastics, a local acrylic manufacturer - $175.57
Speedwave DC10,000 II pump from Salty Supply (great customer service BTW) - $204
A sheet of 1/4" glass to add a baffle to the sump - $13.35
Silicone to glue in the pane from Home Depot - $4.89

Not counted - 4x 1" bulkheads and assorted other PVC plumbing, valves, and a TOM aqualifter return pump for the ATO in the sump.

I'll bet it is at $600, which oddly is substantially more than I paid for the tank.


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## TroyVSC

Wow what a project. That is an awesome stand and tank build. Thanks for sharing and can't wait to see it fully stocked.

Wasnt sure about your comments on Roseline sharks. I though I have heard they color up better with age and size.


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## jccaclimber2

Despite the lack of updates I have actually been working on this thing. The first thing: I needed a more permanent filter. An HMF like filter has worked pretty well on past tanks, so this will be more of the same. First however you need a box to put it in. I was originally going to use a pair of 29 gallon tanks; the first holding the filter and the second as an ATO reservoir. Unfortunately this was going to require a large bulkhead to take overflow in the case of a power outage. Using a 75 became easier. So, enter a 75 with a baffle added:










This of course requires some foam. I originally was going to use two 30" x 18" x 2" foam sheets. Buying the whole 39" x 39" sheet the only way to do that. Once I moved to the 75 I figured I'd just use the whole sheet:










But wait! That isn't a 39" square! I cut the foam in half with a straight edge and a sharp kitchen knife, then used some polyester thread I had laying around to sew the ends together on both sides:










After that I just had to find a way to fit it into the sump. I wanted the filter chamber divided to just two regions. The outside where the main and backup drain enter, and the inside where the pump and heaters will go. Eventually I found a way to make it work:










Note that I did plan this out in advance when deciding where to put the glass dividing wall.

The foam was pressing against the sides in a couple places so I added some PVC to keep it off of the walls. This makes sure the entire "outside" is a continuous volume.










The chamber on the right is for my ATO. I may add a float switch, but right now it is an Aqualifter running full time. This also keeps the return height from the pump to the top constant as water evaporates. Because the glass pane is a bit lower than the rim, the ATO chamber will simply refill in the event of a power outage, me putting my arm in the tank, etc. A better solution is a faster pump and a float switch, but this was an easy way to get things started.


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## jrman83

Looking good JC! I assume you plan to enclose the whole bottom eventually. Don't see the misses being very happy with the look of that for very long. When do you plan to stock? And what will be the stock again? 120 Redline Sharks?


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## jccaclimber2

I plan to eventually enclose the bottom with stained cabinet board. Until then I may use some black fabric as I work on things.

Current stock plan is koi angels, a few dozen rummy nose tetras, a few dozen cardinals, 12 zebra danios, 12-24 sterbai corys, and two gibbiceps plecos. In consideration is more of the tetras, some geos, and roselines. There will also be cherry shrimp until the angels get bigger.


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## jccaclimber2

The dirt is either done giving off ammonia, or has gotten to the point where the bacteria can keep up. Nitrite is declining, although I'm not dosing ammonia. Given the number of plants and water volume at hand I'm debating putting in a small ammonia dose and seeing how it takes it vs transferring over something like a dozen rummy nose tetras and continuing to test.


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## jccaclimber2

I've been slowly adding plants and fish (and algae). CO2 goes on today which means a lot of the more interesting plants will start to come across as well. I'll continue upping the stocking based on continued good water quality.

Two attempts at putting together a panorama. It has been a long time since I've done this in photoshop, and clearly the results leave some to be desired. It does give an idea of the state of the tank though.


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## Botiadancer

" The 4x4 legs work out to around 60 psi in compression, and pass a buckling check as well"

Just so I understand what this means so I can apply this myself...

3.5 x 3.5 = 12.25" sq. x 4 = 49" sq
49 x 60psi = 2940 pounds your legs can support.
Is that correct?

Buckling is in relation to swaying forces?


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## jccaclimber2

Close. I assumed the supported portion of the system will weigh less than 3000 lbf. There are 4 legs each at 3.5^2 in^2. This works to 60 PSI. Wet pine is capable of withstanding roughly 15 times this parallel to the grain (relevant direction in this case). Other common woods are similar.
Column buckling is a separate issue. If you want to know more about that both Wikipedia and Engineering Toolbox have decent descriptions. With timber columns you can assume qualify as "short" if they are less than 10 times their thinnest width (these are barely). You can then figure out what load the column will buckle at depending on the end conditions (fixed vs pinned), misalignment, etc. I don't want to type that all in here, but it passes.
Another concern was the force needed to dent the oak floorboards I refinished right before putting in this tank. The felt footers under the trim have a slightly lower load due to a larger surface area, so I should be ok there as well. Obviously I won't actually know unless I move the tank.
Swaying is a separate issue that I qualified through testing. I put the diagonal brace across the back and sheet of plywood on one end entirely based on gut. Then while it was still in my garage I had a 300+ lb friend shove it around similarly to how you test a car on jack stands and concluded that it met my personal requirements for stability. I use a chair or stepping stool to get on top of the tank regularly and don't have any issues with excess movement.


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## jccaclimber2

Time for an update! I finally got the CO2 working better, and so have started fertilizing (modified EI) as well. Equipment first, then plants (saving the best for last).

Water changes:
Last time I used two garden hoses to drain and refill the tank. This was, for the lack of a better term, slow. So, enter a slightly larger hose for draining water to my yard:








I wasn't able to justify the change to my house I wanted (permanent drain to the back yard) so I went with this. A 2" ID hose. I didn't time it, but once I got this thing going it drained the tank in a matter of minutes. Refill is still slow, but I'll get this connected to the 1hp pump in the basement and things will go faster in the future.

On that note, I'm currently using a 125 in very poor condition as a water holding tank. As you would expect a 125 doesn't hold enough water to do a large WC in this tank. I have five 55 gallon plastic drums (working on getting more) but don't have them connected yet. I ordered a bunch of Uniseals for 1.5" pipe from Aussie Global to connect these. They arrived quickly (USPS priority) with two notable issues. First they are all for 1" pipe. Second, two of the ten ordered are missing a lot of material. This is a manufacturing defect which should have been obvious to everyone from the guy taking it from the mold to the person shipping it.








The tool marks show that the two defective ones aren't from the same mold cavity, so it isn't a clogged sprue hole to the cavity. Either way I left them a message on the phone and web page yesterday since they are only open M-F. I got a reply the same day saying they'll have new ones and a return label out to me Monday. Everyone messes up from time to time and it looks like they are handling it very well so far.

I also got my CO2 working better. The venturi line in the reactor wasn't working as well as planned so I made in insert (nylon rod on a lathe) to decrease the ID a bit and now it is working better. I'm using a bit more CO2 than I was on my 75, but the drop checker is green to yellow. I'm planning to turn it down until it isn't leaning towards yellow and then seeing how fast I consume the first couple tanks (20 lbf).

Now on to the cool stuff (ie plant pictures). Here is a picture of the 6' tank that belongs to a friend of mine. I helped set it up, plant it, and continue to help maintain it. That gave me a chance to get used to dealing with a big tank before setting one up myself.









Next, some crypt affinis that is in the corner of my 300. I'm always amazed at the contrast between the top and bottoms of the leaves on this plant. These were actually grown in one of my low tech/low light 20 gallon longs and moved a couple weeks ago. I've grown them in high light/high tech in the past though and don't expect any changes in color.









Up next a full tank shot. I still need to put the CO2 rig back having gotten it working again:









Finally, not from this tank but I thought it looked cool. I got some ludwigia glandulosa x palustris several months ago. To me it looked just like l. arcuata x repens in most of my tanks but let some sit in my QT tank. This is a 20 long with inert sand substrate, no fertilizers, a single T8 bulb, and standard feeding to its occupants. To my pleasant surprise it turned a lovely shade of pink:


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## jrman83

Looking good! So you are not having issue keeping CO2 in the tank, operating it with an overflow and sump?

I think you need to get 4-48" BMLs on that thing.


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## jccaclimber2

The overflow is more or less silent so there isn't much splashing to offgas CO2. I still need to cover the sump, but the surface in it is very still and slightly filmed over so I don't expect much loss there.

^BML= LED?
If so a fish store about an hour away tried to convince me to buy some of their in house LED lighting at a discounted rate. If they had answered my questions I'd probably have done it, but I've spent a month asking and waiting for information that originally was supposed to come "tomorrow". I finally got a price on half the fixture after two weeks, but still don't have a price on the other half.

I'll entertain LEDs, but given the current price of LED I'm not going that route for another couple years unless someone wants to use this as a demo tank or something similar. I was going to make a DIY light, but I couldn't convince myself of the color spread that I wanted and figure in a year or two that information will be much better documented elsewhere online.


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## jrman83

If you could find the LEDs in the link below I think this would be a great option for you. They are largely considered to be the best LEDs that you can find in the UK. These panels are considered to be ultra powerful and I would guess you would only need maybe four of these, depending on how much light you really wanted. I believe the price of these is actually fairly cheap and if you really could get away with 4 for your setup, you are talking a little over $800. My T5HO setups nearly cost that and they won't fit the bill for your tank. Love the mounting system on these also.

GroBeam 1500 Ultima ND LED | Green Leaf Aquariums

BML = buildmyLED It is what I have on 2 of my larger tanks.


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## jccaclimber2

I've gotten the beginnings of my RO storage for water changes set up in the (messy) basement. The drums are all plumbed together, through a shutoff valve, then in to the pump. It will be nice to not have to hold the hose in the bottom of the 125 to get water out of it. As a side note, Uniseals are supposed to be installed with soap as a lubricant. Not wanting to rinse that out I opted to use olive oil. Apparently the choice to use olive oil was perfectly ok with my wife. The fact that I grabbed the extra virgin olive oil was not.


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## Kimbersmama

Awesome. I just started this process today on a 220. Makes me a little more hopeful seeing this!


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## jccaclimber2

I'm well late on posting an update, but here's the current photo. I'm having a bit of an issue with one of my uniseals leaking (or so I think) in my RO storage setup. Given the rough holes I cut this isn't entirely surprising. I'll try to figure out which one it is and smooth the edge out sometime in the next week. I also took a picture of the pogostemon stallatus. The leaves cover a 6-8" diameter. It let it go a bit too long after this photo and had it several inches out of the tank before trimming, so hopefully I won't have a bare spot mid stem now that I have trimmed it.


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## majerah1

Beautiful!


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## garstrom

Very Nice, Thanks for the update and pics


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## aireal

Looks awesome!


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## jrman83

JC, how is the tank going?


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## jccaclimber2

Well, for one I moved to Texas (only partly my choice, I feel like a blueberry in tomato soup). The fish made it, the plants were iffy. Putting plants in a sealed bucket for several weeks turns out to be detrimental to their well being. Fortunately I had several species distributed among friends, so I've been rebuilding. The tank is full of plants, but not exactly looking like I would like. I'll try to dig up some pictures of the move.


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## jrman83

Good to hear it is still up and running. Easy for large tanks to get shut down for one or another. I can't remember where you were before? I just moved all of my tanks about 3 months back but only had to move about a hour away. Even still, a 125g will take all day to break down and set back up somewhere.


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## Summer

Beautiful set up! Didn't know ya moved off to Texas! I've been out of the loop for so long. I know nothing obviously. HA!


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