# White spots on fish



## rfusca (Jan 26, 2011)

We dove into a 10 gallon tank without having any idea what we were doing. We initially had 5 fish in the tank but I quickly figured out that was WAY too much and we were able to return and give some away. I've since done the research we should have done before.

Its been about 3 weeks and we're having problems keeping the ammonia down, which leads me to believe the tank may still be cycling (I'm new to this so that could be waaay off). 

We're using the Jungle ammonia test strips and they say the level is somewhere between .5 and 3 ppm from the looks of it.

We currently only have one blackmoor and he's generally rather active.
I've been doing partial water changes every 2 days of 25%, tap water treated with decholorine stuff, in a bucket.

In addition to the ammonia problems (which could be the same for all I know), the blackmoor has also started to develop small white spots on the tail. 
I'd post a picture of the spots, but I can't yet (5 post rule).

Help! What do we do?

If the fish doesn't survive and we let the tank cycle through - how do we keep future fish from developing anything (fungus, parasite, etc) that might be causing issues now?


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## NeonShark666 (Dec 13, 2010)

Cycling is a process that takes at least 6 weeks, 3 wouldn't be enough time for cycling to complete. I don't believe changing water during cycling, it takes food away from the bacteria you are trying to build up. If you realy want to get a handle on what's happening in your tank, get a nitrite and nitrate kit or use strips. In three more weeks, I recomend a 1/3 water change, this gets ride of some of the accumulated natrates that the cycling bacteria won't remove. Goldfish are fairly dirty fish so have very strong filtration system and change your filter pads often (dirty filter pads generate nitrates).


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Get rid of those strips and get a liquid test kit. The fact that it reads between .5 and 3 is just too big of a gap of information. Ammonia is normal for the cycle and the goal is trying to do water changes to keep it below 1. Most of the time it is just too difficult to get any lower and most fish will survive lower levels of ammonia. Same goes for nitrites.

Water changes are necessary during a cycle if you're doing it with fish and you want them to live. You can take your chances and let it ride, but more times than not you will be losing a few if not all of your fish. It delays completion of the bacteria forming yes, but that is why many choose to go about their cycle fishless and not have to worry about water changes or fish.

I'd recommend getting an API master test kit. My guess is you're already getting nitrites in your water and in many cases can be much more toxic than ammonia. The master kit will give you the ability to test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and ph. All the basic info you need for now and any time in the future for your tank. Cost is $25-35 depending on where you get it but it is invaluable.

What do the white spots look like? Do they look like the fish has been sprinkled with sand or sugar? Larger? Send a pic to my email if you like: [email protected].


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## rfusca (Jan 26, 2011)

Emailed the pic and order the test kit, be here on Friday.


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## J-Pond (Jun 8, 2009)

Just a heads up, if you still have the Black Moor, keep doing partial water changes while the tank is cycling. Also with the Black Moor, you should not add any other fish into that tank. Rule of thumb for fancy Goldfish is 10gallons per fish. Since I can't see a picture, white spots could be ich, or they could be breeding stars depending on the age of the goldfish.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Got the pic. Looks like ich to me. Since goldies are coldwater fish, I'd recommend picking up some type of ich med at your local pet store. I prefer 'quick cure', but there are many types out there. Just follow the instructions carefully. *Usually* very easy to cure.

An alternative way to treat ich is high temp, that is what I meant about goldies being cold water fish. It can kill your fish so it is good to get started as soon as possible with the treatment. It attaches to their gills also.


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## J-Pond (Jun 8, 2009)

You can raise the temp to help cure ich with Goldies. It must be done gradually, and I wouldn't go over 82 degrees. Once there keep the temp steady, after treatment is over, again gradually reduce the temp.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

82 won't do much to kill the ich, but it will speed up the ich cycle.


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## rfusca (Jan 26, 2011)

Well, I'll get some ich treatment today and we'll see how it goes.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Just for future ref....ich has the appearance of your fish having been sprinkled with sand or tiny air bubbles attached to them. I believe it is usually first visible on the fins and tail (can be all over their body also) and is also usually accompanied by the fish looking like they are rubbing on things, called flashing.


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## rfusca (Jan 26, 2011)

Got "quick cure" from the LFS and the guy there recommended SafeStart to help the cycling process complete. Starting treatment. Took the carbon filter out. Drops in.

Also, I know that the 10 gal. aquarium is too small for the Black Moor full grown, so we'll most likely be moving him to a near empty 55 gallon (at my wife's work) at some point in the future - I've no wish for him to suffer in a small space. After that we're hoping to get some more appropriately sized fish for the space.


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## rfusca (Jan 26, 2011)

We noticed today that his tail is starting to look like its disintegrating...tail &fin rot?


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

Get some fin rot meds. Once you finish treatment for ich, do a big water change and start meds for fin rot.


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## rfusca (Jan 26, 2011)

This is what I get for not doing research first (before doing the aquarium)....I always do research first...the ONE time...*sigh*

I should wait to add the safe start till the meds are done, right?


On the bright side, my little girl LOVES going to look at the "fishy".


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

You could probably add the safe start any time you want. I would do it immediately after your next water change.


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## snail (Aug 6, 2010)

Adding salt to the water cured both fin rot and ich in goldfish for me but it's usually better not to mix too many cures. Fin rot usually goes away on it's own with clean water, but the problem here is that you are cycling.


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