# Ammonia is at 1 N02 and NO3 is at zero



## cherk947 (Sep 10, 2012)

I have had my 37 gallon tank setup since August 18th and everything has been going great.. I have been testing my water with the API Master Kit every other day since I should be getting to the good part of my cycle process. About two weeks ago I finally started seeing Ammonia. It has gradually grown to 1.0 ppm. I have been doing bi-weekly water changes taking about 10 gallons out. I have been using Prime and Fresh Trace dosing for the entire tank each water change. 

My question is this my Ammonia never gets above 1.0 ppm and my Nitrite and Nitrates are always zero. Should I wait longer to do water changes or am I just not cycling?


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

with fish in tank you should not let ammonia get that high.Change water to at least cut ammonia in half(50% water change) and don't let ammonia rise that high before changing water again.Fish in cycles require many water changes(possibly daily,or more)as fish health is at risk(permanent damage,even if they live) from ammonia.Try to keep ammonia under.25.When you get nitrites keep changing water till nitrites are replaced by nitrates.Then regular"maintenance" water changes can follow.


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## cherk947 (Sep 10, 2012)

coralbandit said:


> with fish in tank you should not let ammonia get that high.Change water to at least cut ammonia in half(50% water change) and don't let ammonia rise that high before changing water again.Fish in cycles require many water changes(possibly daily,or more)as fish health is at risk(permanent damage,even if they live) from ammonia.Try to keep ammonia under.25.When you get nitrites keep changing water till nitrites are replaced by nitrates.Then regular"maintenance" water changes can follow.


Yes that would be my plan. I guess my question is since Prime encapsulates the Ammonia how can I test what may or may not be going on in my tank? Also should I dose for the whole tank each time?


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

As I don't use prime(possibly a new thread ?) I questioned myself that you said you dose 100% tank vloume(not actual water replaced).I read prime directions and lit.and would say I think thats excessive.Doulbe recommened amount per gal. I think they said ok and a few other exceptions(part of new thread?) Ive also heard prime users say in post (I think) that ammonia may still register on test although converted to less toxic form by prime(seems an issue?).I use novaqua plus.Does nothing but remove chlorine/chloramine/heavy metals.I question primes effect on test.Hopefully a prime user(lots here) will post.(I bumped ya if nothing else)


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

Prime will lock ammonia that is present, but it will still give you a reading. The tank is still cycling. When your cycling with fish the cycle will take longer as your having to do water changes to keep the fish safe from ammonia and nitrites.

If your doing your water changes by bucket, just dose the bucket with required amount. If your using a python or same type of setup. You dose the tank first. If you are doing 50% or more water change dose the full amount for tank size.


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## cherk947 (Sep 10, 2012)

susankat said:


> Prime will lock ammonia that is present, but it will still give you a reading. The tank is still cycling. When your cycling with fish the cycle will take longer as your having to do water changes to keep the fish safe from ammonia and nitrites.
> 
> If your doing your water changes by bucket, just dose the bucket with required amount. If your using a python or same type of setup. You dose the tank first. If you are doing 50% or more water change dose the full amount for tank size.


Thank you everyone. Yes I am doing a non-fishless cycle. This method works for me because I dont mind and have the time to stay on top of it.


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## susankat (Nov 15, 2008)

Ok if your doing a fishless cycle, don't do water changes till its done. Are you dosing ammonia daily? If not, Dose ammonia up to 4 test daily once it starts dropping the nitrites should start raising. Keep your ammonia levels to at least 2. Once the nitrites start lowering you should see a rise in nitrates. Once the levels reach 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and a reading for nitrates do a 50% water change. Test next day and if levels are still the same you can start adding fish.


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## cherk947 (Sep 10, 2012)

susankat said:


> Ok if your doing a fishless cycle, don't do water changes till its done. Are you dosing ammonia daily? If not, Dose ammonia up to 4 test daily once it starts dropping the nitrites should start raising. Keep your ammonia levels to at least 2. Once the nitrites start lowering you should see a rise in nitrates. Once the levels reach 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and a reading for nitrates do a 50% water change. Test next day and if levels are still the same you can start adding fish.


Sorry I meant to say I am not doing a non-fish less cycle. I have fish. Yes, I know it is going to take more work and longer to get it cycled right. Letting nature and not chemicals get things going.


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## coralbandit (Jul 29, 2012)

thought you had fish? Change water as orignally posted , and glad to know you know it will take longer. Be patient & change water.


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## hanky (Jan 18, 2012)

I would stop using the fresh trace, I dont use anything except api water conditioner, sometimes adding to many chemicals can effect the water and your tests, regular water changes with good conditioned water is enough to add anything your fish need.


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## jrman83 (Jul 9, 2010)

I guess I have to look up what fresh trace is, but I tend to agree with less is best.

Everyone has their own method when cycling a tank. Trying to keep your tank at .25ppm or less on ammonia can be near impossible depending on what you start out with when you put your fish in. I have always did mine with trying to keep at 1ppm or lower. I let the higher than 1ppm be my guide to perform the water change. If it stays at 1ppm or lower I let it ride and don't do a water change. Usually the exposure/danger to the fish is short-lived and allowing 1ppm (a higher ammonia concentration) will drive the cycle to occur at a faster rate. Higher levels of ammonia cause a faster chain of events and usually the cycle completes quicker (one of the great advantages of a fishless cycle - sustained high levels of ammonia). But, err on the side of caution and do what feels safer to you.


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