# Aquarium room build with pictures - advice welcome



## Sebastian

Hi, my name is Sebastian and I have been keeping and breeding fish for over two decades. I always dreamed of building a nice aquarium rack ‘breeding station’. Life has settled down a bit and I am finally able to dive into the project. Here is a picture of the setup I am building right now:



The stand is pretty much complete; I will just stain and seal it over the next couple of days. The two lower levels will hold six 10 gallon tanks each, and the upper level four 20 gallon tanks for a total water volume of 200 gallons. I would like to make maintenance of this system as easy as possible and have been reading about different solutions for the filtration, water changes, and would love some input from you guys.

Since I will not be specializing in a particular region I would like to keep the water from all of the tanks separate, otherwise I would be tempted to go with a large sump system and circle it all back into the tanks. I am pretty sure that I will use an air system with sponge filters to do the primary filtration and aeration of the tanks. 

What I am most worried about right now are the water changes. The last thing I want to do is carry buckets, especially with so many tanks that need frequent water changes while breeding. I am fortunate that this setup is in the basement and I have access to both a drainage pipe in the floor and a fresh water outlet (both to the right of the stand). What I want to do is have several plastic barrels that I can use to age tap water and have a pump that I can drop into the barrels to pump it into the tanks via a hose (Any particular pump you can recommend?). At first I was thinking about drilling each tank half way down and plugging in bulkheads so that I can just open a valve to drain all the tanks half way at once and then fill them up. But since I will be filling them up individually anyway, I don’t know if it’s worth draining them that fast, I could just drain them individually with a hose. What kind of water change system would you suggest? The easier, the better.

As for heating, the room stays pretty warm because of pipes that heat the house (in the top of the picture), but each tank will need its own heater. Not a solution that I love, but I think I will drop a 50w heater into each 10 gallon and a 100 into the 20 gallons.

In terms of the light I would like some cheap custom option. There will be pretty much no plants, mostly bare bottom tanks or a bit of sediment where required. This is mostly to see the fish and give them a light cycle. What would interest me is an LED solution that I could install myself under the shelves of the rack (i.e. install and wire individual LEDs). Any suggestions?
I might expand the room with a few more large tanks, all of the systems discussed should allow for more tanks.


Thanks for your input!
-Sebastian


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## majerah1

Very nice! What fish are you planning on keeping?


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## coralbandit

I use 2 rubbermaid 32g garbage cans on the wheeled dollies to prep water.There is some question of leaching (some chemical from the plastic), but I have had no problems and been using them for about 1 year.I have a power head and heater for each(I can warm each in about 4-5 hours).I use a mag 7 pump(danner / supreme) with a hose and 2 90's so I can "hook" it on whatever tank I'm changing.It will pump the 32 g up 4 1/2 feet in about 3 mins.On my fry/grow out tanks I have no auto set up(to drain) as vacumming is necessary with the heavy feeding and waste created.
My display tank(with sump filter) has a pump that removes water to my waste line(mag 7 fill pump matches the out flow)so I change 32 g in 3 mins,by flipping switch and plugging in pump.
Nice set up you got there.Figure what fish you're going to breed as that may dictate how you have to do things.I use sponge filters on all and an aquaclear 110 on my 75g also(final grow out).
I use Current True Lumen Pro LEDs on all tanks, but they're pricey.
I use aqueon pro heaters also and think they're worth the price(online is a lot cheaper for all hard goods).
I use corallife luft 65 air pumps(3)to run my 18 sponges.
Finally besides everything else(ask if I left something out) I CHANGE A LOT OF WATER,EVERYDAY as that and plenty of food is what grows fry.
Oh ya,I buy food in bulk(3.5 lbs of Tetra pro crisp flake & 5 lbs of .8mm newlife spectrum pellets) and also use decapsulate brine shrimp eggs from Kensfish(a good on line source of ;food,heaters,air pumps,and sponges).
ENJOY AND GOOD LUCK!


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## tcald429

Wow, no advice (rookie here) but please keep us updated on this build!


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## FishFlow

Nice setup! Recommendation and question.

Get that wood stand off the floor. You don't want the legs to be sitting in water. (Well, it seems like a good idea to me!) 

I'm considering making that rack a bit deeper to hold the tanks sideways, allowing to have alot more tanks in roughly the same area. Curious of the pros/cons of setting up the racks either way.

Petmountain.com has got air pump ~ 40% off. I just picked up a super luft pump by coral. 

Am interested in your solution to the mass WC schedule. Most here, spend way too much time doing wc's, and any time saved here will be much appreciated.


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## rtmaston

looks like its is coming together post some more pictures when your done.


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## Dave Waits

Your lighting solution is a Home Depot away. I would suggest, since you aren't worried about plants, you can buy strip lighting(Flourescent) for about $7.00 each that would bolt to the top of each shelf and shine down onto the tanks. The beauty of these is that each light draws maybe 1/4 of an Amp. A standard F40T5 only draws 1/3rd. of an amp. I know this as I'm a retired Electrician and worked with flourescent lighting for thirty years at General Electric.
Anyway, on your stand you're looking at about a 1-1/2 to 2 Amp draw. Figure about 3/4 of an amp draw on each of the fifty watt heaters and 1.2 each on the 100s. so, total draw would be about 10 amps. You can run the whole thing on a 15 amp circuit.

BTW, you can buy Tube-Locks to hold the Flourescent tubes in place for about .50 a pair


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## Donald Hansen

Maybe it is obvious, but, with that much water and the number of electrical fixtures, a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) might be a good idea. There are at least two types. One that replaces a circuit breaker and another that replaces an outlet. That last type also guards any outlets/fixtures further out on a branch circuit.

DLH


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## Sebastian

Thanks for all your replies, some great advice here!

majerah1 - When I was younger I bred several species of smaller cichlids, I would like to go back to that. Rams, _P. pulcher_, _Apistogramma sp._, maybe some shell dweller like multis. In addition i would like to try myself at some _Corydoras _and _Ancistrus_ and possibly some killifish. Really nothing that is too hard to breed, just lots of fun.

coralbandit - Thanks for your detailed reply! I like how you are able to change that much water that quickly. I will look into the pump option you mentioned.

FishFlow - By now the wood has been coated with a prestain, cherry stain, and two to three coats of polyurethane. Not much rotting here. I was considering putting the tanks sideways, but I like to look at my fish and observe them properly; I have a lot of space to expand if I so desire.

Dave Waits - I was really happy to read your post, it is always great to have an electrician giving proper advice. I think you are right in that the light strips are the best solution for this rack. Are they mostly T12 or T8 by now? I think the standard size is 48", the size that would fit perfectly under the board would be 36". I was however not able to find inexpensive 3' fixtures online. Two 10 gallons next to each other are 40", maybe I can get away with a 2' fixture between the two tanks.

Donald Hansen - I need to put in a few more outlets and they will definitely be GFCI. In our jurisdiction the code says we have to have GFCI in the basement anyway.


*Update*: I went by Petco today to get some more of the smaller tanks and they had their 1 dollar per gallon sale going on; I was not able to say no to two 40 gallon tanks. These will be great as grow out tanks. I will make another smaller rack for them while I'm at it. This brings the total volume up to 280 gallons. That is enough for now, my wife is already looking funny at me (she did help paint though and did an awesome job). The rack is drying from the last polyurethane coat right now and I will post a picture on the weekend. Going to paint the wall behind the rack next, it needs some love.


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## jrman83

Nice looking setup. Good luck with it!

I know susankat has some fish room pics of her own that are posted on the site. I'm sure she will chime in on how she runs her w/c schedule as well.


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## susankat

Looks great. I need some more racks want to come build them for me . I have 43 tanks running and have found the easiest way to do water changes is with a python hooked to the sink. The only other easier way is to set up an auto change system.

Since your going to run sponge filters, I would look at kensfish for a bigger pump. I use one to run about 50 filters, and it can run up to 100.


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## Dave Waits

Here's one at Grainger that should provide enough for your needs.
LITHONIA Fixture, Slim Channel - Channel Strip Fluorescent Fixtures - 3GA54|S 1 15PH 120 - Grainger Industrial Supply


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## Sebastian

Susan -


susankat said:


> Looks great. I need some more racks want to come build them for me .


 If I was still living in Texas I'd swing by. The rack actually came together pretty quick, followed the instructions from Ted's fishroom. I liked the idea of the dado joint, looks a lot sturdier than just using screws or bolts. I was looking into either an Alita or Jehmco linear piston air pump. The Alitas are a bit cheaper, but I heard good things about the Jehmcos. Any preference? I will have 18 (12x10, 4x20, 2x40) tanks on that system with room for expansion. What kind of sponge filters do you run in your tanks? I was thinking about making some, but after I am done buying the materials I won't save much money over buying some from ATI. Looks like the nr 5 would be big enough for the 40 gal tanks.

Dave - Thanks for the link, that gets close to what I need. I'll shop around some more and see if I can't find 3' fixtures, but that would probably do.


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## susankat

I made most of my filters out of foam, ceramic squares and pvc pipe. I even run 6 in my 100 gal.


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## Dave Waits

Jehmco also sells Hydro-Sponge filters, really good filters.


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## Sebastian

Dave, didn't realize that Jehmco sells them as well, thanks. I guess they will get a larger order in the new year. I think I'll go that route instead of making them.

*Update*: Here is a picture of the large stand with a cherry stain and a few coats of polyurethane. The boards have been nailed on with finishing nails before the last coat of polyurethane:



After we were done with the rack, we decided that the wall behind the rack should really be painted before we put up the rack. We took that opportunity to patch up a few holes and replace one section that had some mold on it (this is in the basement). Then I decided I might as well put a few more GFCI outlets in. While I was doing that I figured I can put a few more outlets in for my compressor and pump. One thing let to another and we spent the weekend remodeling half the basement *#3.

Question: This might sound ridiculous, but with the current 1 dollar per gallon sale going on, would it be a stupid idea to just buy a few more tanks, cut them apart and make custom glass covers? I figure it would only cost me $100 right now to make covers for 18 tanks that way. Would just need to pop off the trim and cut through the silicone. The sides and bottom are almost the right size anyway, you get three covers out of one tank. I like the glass covers that are divided into a back and front half, i.e. you can access the tank while leaving the back cover on.


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## TroyVSC

looking really nice. for storing water water i would keep 1 or 2 50 gallon drums and plumb a pump to fill the tanks. At my school we have emergency 50 gallon drums with hand crank pumps that already have the plumbing so i would not think it would be much of a stretch to put something electric on it. Now taking the water out is another matter. Heard good things about the pythons or aqueon water changers that connect to a faucet and drain.


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## lamiskool

any updates =)


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## Sebastian

Haha lamis, not too many. We have actually cleared out the room to put down Rustoleum epoxy coating on the floor. Nice tan color, just got done paining. I even got sprinkles on that. Definitely improved the room; the most work is actually getting the concrete clean, ours was nasty.

Other than that I have finished the second rack for the two 40 gallons and I put in a large order with Jehmco. For the water changes I decided to drill every tank and put 3/4" bulkheads half way down the back. They will be connected to a pvc pipe via vinyl hoses and the whole thing drains into a floor sewer access. 

I also ordered an utility pump to get the water from a storage tank back into the tanks. Not sure about the storage container yet, but I was looking at rubbermaid stock tanks. Does anyone know if a galvanized stock tank would work, or is the zinc detrimental to the fish? People seemed to like these better than the rubbermaid tanks in terms of their longevity.

*c/p* I'm not sure if you guys saw my question from above, has anyone ever tried to cut away the rims of regular aqueon tanks and take the glass plates off? How easy can you get the black rims off? I still think that would be most inexpensive option to get glass tops for the tanks.


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## Donald Hansen

I've gotten the trim off my Aqueon 55 gal in one piece. Just take a utility knife blade by itself and slide it under the trim to cut the silicon. Pulling the trim away from the glass as you are cutting the silicon helps. You can pull pretty hard on the trim without damage. When you get to a certain point, the trim will start to separate from the silicon. Take your time and be careful not to cut thru the trim from the inside. Took me about 20 minutes.

DLH


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## coralbandit

Not a real answer to question;using tanks for lids,but I too thought that was a great idea(with the sale and all),but just from looking(didn't actually measure) I don't think the glass will fit inside frame?The front& back are longer than frame on inside(since they go the full legnth of tank,sides are"sandwiched" inbetween front & back).The sides may work but aren't proper length.Just thought about it a little but didn't measure(I will).


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## Sebastian

Thanks Donald, glad to hear it is possible. I've been calling a lot of hardware stores around me and I did not find a good option to get the glass I need; It is either too expensive, or they only have 1/16".

Coralbandit, it is true that the sheets are a little too big, but it is really easy to cut thin strips off glass (there are good videos on youtube). I would need to cut them in half anyway, because I want to be able to put a handle on the front pieces to be able to slide it onto the back piece.


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## Donald Hansen

Sounds like you don't plan on reusing the trim. In that case if you carefully cut through the trim so you can lift one end of the cut, it will make it even easier.

DLH


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## Sebastian

I have found another possible option for lighting the lower two rows: T5 under cabinet lights. Those would have the benefit of having a really low profile, as opposed to shop lights (which I will probably use for the uppermost tier). The 35.5 inch model has a 21 watt bulb which would fit precisely over two of the 10 gallon tanks. Is that enough illumination to properly see the fish? They are slightly more expensive than the shop lights, but they come with bulbs, have power cords, and the bulb is actually covered. Any reason not to use them?

My other option for the lower rows would be cheap T8 fixtures. These however do not come with bulbs and I would need to purchase a power cord and wire them. Also, they are slightly higher than the 2x4, they would show a little and be potentially blinding with my setup.


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## Sebastian

Just a quick update, here is a picture with the two racks in place. 



The room has been completely overhauled, the Rustoleum is a lot nicer than the bare concrete. I'm painting the back of all tanks black. First I tried Krylon spray paint, but that took too many coats for a nice coverage and I was only able to do a few tanks with one can. Plus, I live in the northeast and since the winter is wet and cold I had to spray inside, which was not that great. I switched to latex paint which produced better results in only two coats.

I installed T5 undercabinet lights that came with daylight bulbs, they work nicely for the lower tanks. Regular t8 shoplights will hang over the top row.

Right now I'm drilling and tapping 3/4" pvc for the air valves. Then I'll drill the tanks for the bulkheads. And then I'll drill the 1 1/2 PVC for the drainage hoses. Should be hitting oil soon.

*Question*: To foam or not to foam? I know people have different opinions on whether to put foam under a tank or not. Even though my carpentry skills are not too bad, some of the 10g tanks and the 20's wobble a bit due to natural bending of the lumber. Would you use any foam to evenly distribute the weight? What about the 40 gallon tanks?


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## coralbandit

If they have more than a penny space in one corner ,I would foam.If less possibly the weight of the water will make things all good.Wood will settle with weight,but glass does not want to bend.All weight goes to the corners.I have a couple metal stands and they all belly in the middle,could fit a quater or maybe more in the middle(part of how I new I could build stands with little to no support in the middle ,even my 180,6 feet long and my 4 foot 120 has no support in middle).All weight goes to corners
Things look good though, can't wait to see water and fish!


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## dvanbramer88

Secure the racks to the walls. Read a three part article in TFH magazine last year and the author was big on securing racks to the wall so they cannot fall outward. 

Otherwise, nice setup so far!


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## Sebastian

coralbandit - I decided on 1/2" foam insulation. Painting all the bottoms in a sand color so I won't see it.

dvan - I am definitely securing the long rack, it has a very narrow footprint. I don't think I am going to do anything about the 40 galllon double rack, the breeders have a very broad footprint. Not living in an earthquake zone helps, too!


Update: I'm done with drilling all of the tanks, which was a pain and took me several days. Backs are all painted black and bulkheads are installed. I'm going to use 1/2" insulation foam under the tanks, painting the bottoms in a sand color right now so I don't have to look at green foam. The PVC air system is installed and ready. I will probably have water in all of the tanks by the end of this weekend.


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## Sherry

Very impressive and inspirational. Keep up the good work.


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